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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Gregster, Jul 6, 2007.
You will make money on the deal. Just sell what you dont need on ebay.
He said the motor was a runner when pulled, 28K miles. Was a gift from relative. Bike was tore down for repainting and it sat for years. Engine has a leak from crankcase cover and valve cover (surpise? ). He said he'd sell it for $150 if I'm really gonna use it.
Who wants to bet I'll have a running bike by tomorrow?? I got all those gaskets
Take your time. Don't be in a hurry.
Doesn't take lone to swap if it is complete. You gotta run it anyway to see or hear if it has problems. Worst case you will be out a couple of quarts of oil and a gasket or two.
Just got it and it looks alot better than my engine, about to go install it.
Oh and he plenty of good parts, he is only interested in selling to someone who is going to put them to use. For example, he wants $50 for rims. He doesn't have time to ship them so if anybody wants anything I'll have to pick them up for you and ship them to you. Let me know, he said nothing is going anywhere anytime soon.
If only I had a lil more money lol
Gotta wait til tomorrow for anything else. The camshaft looks good, the chain isn't stretch, and the bolts were actually oiled. It does make a noise when I turn it over TDC by hand. Kind of like a slight slap. I absolutely could not get the valve addjustment caps off, All they managed to do is break and not turn. The timing cover plug is broke as well, so I need to get one of those. I'm pretty happy. I'm gonna use the head from this engine on my original engine. Just gotta get those broken bolts taken out.
Sorry to be posting so much guys. I'm parting the 84' engine out. I'm just gonna take the head from it and sell the rest at 50% less than the other ebayers so hopefully I can get my original head repaired. if anybody needs anything, PM me plz! The goal here is to hopefully keep my bike and others' bikes on the trails and streets
I replaced my air cut off with a new unit from eBay.
The old one had several pin holes in it. The new spring was not similar in length (shorter) or shape (beehive) so I use the old spring.
I also replaced all the exhaust gaskets, which the mid pipe gasket was just falling apart...
And...I'm still getting a decent amount of decel pop, not loud, but there. I sometimes have to really listen for it with my helmet on and all.
I rode into work this morning, and the bike was running quite weird. It seems like it was misfiring at idle, and then it would idle high, like super high. I'm thinking I may have had the idle screw turned up too high to compensate for the idle, and then something *cough* pulse generator *cough* is causing the idle to drop occasionally, and allow the bike to misfire.
My idea... is the pulse generator. I have a brand new one in my parts box with side cover gasket. I think I'm gonna attack that tonight.
It also seems to just fall on its face at higher speeds. The bike takes off in 1st like I remember, leaving the front end nice and light... But in 4th or 5th, at around 60mph, giving it throttle will just bog the bike down.
It is probably a fried pulse generator.
At nearly 30 years old these bikes need every electrical replaced.
I did it all in one shot. PG, CDI, coil, stator. The bike runs fantastic.
I sure hope so.
I forgot to mention I have a new CDI, coil, stator, and plug boot.
I ordered everything in "one shot" but last time I checked the PG, it tested within spec, but that was like 3 years ago... Even though this thing hasn't ran in nearly 15y ears, it's like the electronics just rot away...
I'm gonna replace it tonight and see how things go. Any tips for the right side cover R&R?
Also... what is the best material used to seal up the airbox boots? Mine look fine, but I'm sure that wouldn't hurt.
Just lay it over to the left so the oil doesnt drain out. The PG is 2 bolts. I use permatex non hardening sealer on everything, boots, grommets etc. It works good.
The heat kills all the electrical parts. Running an oil cooler should extend the life though for the new parts.
What condition and color is the tank? How much? Also the rims? ...I just recently bought a '82 500r.. so much fun
Well, I got the PG swapped. Made sure my throttle cables were adjusted properly (because of the idle issue), and took off for a spin. The power seems to be back, it's actually surprising me how powerful it is. But it's still lugging around 60-70 mph and the decel pop is still there.
Occasionally it seems worse than it was before the diaphragm swap and now this odd idle speed issue has started. It doesn't matter how much I close the throttle (and I know the push cable is tight) the engine will just scream on its own...
Could there be an issue using this new diaphragm with the old spring? Could the new diaphragm be defective?
I'm at a loss... The only symptoms before the new diaphragm was the decel pop and lugging over 60...
One other thing I checked was the resistance on the coil. The primary (between the two connections) checked okay, but the resistance between the secondary (connection and boot) was low... This was a new coil I got from Ricky Stator...
As you swap the diaphragma , dit you make sure that the little O-Ring
next to the diaphragma is in place ?
Right way around ? , it has two differnt sides , Flat side goes to the Carb body .
If your old spring has enough tension to push the pin in the center of the diaphragma against the spring behind the Air cut valve itself then its fine .
But at idle the low pressure in front of the Carbslide go over a small bore (sealed by the o-ring) to the spring side of the diaphragma and compress the spring so the pin is pulled back and the Aircut valve can close . If the O- Ring leak or is lost you get a leak and the Aircut Valve can never close and the mix at idle is not correct .
Well project has halted.I couldn't get one of the bolts on the side of the cylinder off It just stripped when I twisted 10mm wrench. Oh well, going to the machine shop tomorrow anyway.
Yes, the new one came with a new o-ring, and I just went ahead and swapped that as well, flat side against the carb body. The old spring was actually longer than the new one...
Are there any external vacuum lines that control the carbs at all, or is all the vacuum pulled internally? I thought I traced all the lines, and they all seemed to either be breather tubes or drain tubes, so I couldn't see if a cracked line would cause any issues.
I guess I can pull the carbs again and swap in the "new" spring, but I'm not sure how that would change anything. Again, the new spring is shorter and beehive shaped...
Maybe an intake manifold leak.
Check the exhaust doughnut and header copper orings for leaks.
External Vacoum lines only if you have the california model carb .
Maybe its a manifold leak , maybe the Aircut valve is sticky and don't close even when the diaphragma pulls the pin back .
Dit you test that ?
The new head is in excellent condition The machine guy told me to just wire brush the black shit off and slap it in. Too bad I got to watch the kid today while my wife is at work. I'm getting anxious!
Edit: The camshaft from the 84' looks trashed, It's blackened on two lobes, can it be saved? not too important though.