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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Hayduke, Jan 16, 2008.
I used a replacement seal head from All Balls Racing a couple of years ago. It's held up since then. I would think that unless the shaft is damaged that a rebuild would hold up. A little wear in the body shouldn't matter.
Thanks Luke, I saw replacement seal head on ebay but there are a few other seals required - do they come with any other seals
I don't remember that it did- but I didn't need them. I did have to order a bladder separately. The piston seal and bushing on mine were fine so I left them alone. When the shock blew I did a parking lot rebuild (clean the seals, top up the oil) which held until I got the parts for a proper rebuild. If you want to do it once and not leave it disassembled for a couple of weeks it'd make more sense to order all the wear items.
I am looking for stiffer fork springs anyone have experience with fork upgrades on the xr400?
What valving works best is anyone doing shock upgrades any recommended shops?
I did the 6 shim stack mod this winter but already had some .44 springs from raceteck. I was 85kg when I chose the .44 springs.
The .44 springs were a big improvement as expected. The 6 shim mode makes the bike handle the trail junk better, generally softer ride, but still no bottoming out problems (for the riding I do now)
The forks work well for the riding I do now, with age I am less aggressive and more into trail/play riding, the jumps are smaller and the speed slower. Still I regret not doing this mod ten years ago, I am 90% sure it would have been an improvement.
Run your engine to operating temperature 5 to 10 minute ride.
check oil and adjust to correct level , recheck after after one hour riding right away- stop engine check imediately.
I once had a xt 550 that drained oil down into the engine every time it sat for any time. Usually that is all it is .
If you burn a liter an hour there be lots of blue smoke. That summer where I had that problem I did 26 tousand KM after
I thought I had engine problems. Usually it is just some carbon on the check valve , with time they all bleed down some.
how many K do you have on your motor?
Hello all! I just sold my 07 crf250, the very next day bought this new to me 03 xr4 CA plated with a baja designs kit. So far I have been riding it to work and haven't been able to take it to the desert yet. The previous owner installed fat bars, xrs only triple, and a GPR stabilizer. The mount for the trail tech speedo kinda sucks, only held by one bolt from the far right bar mount. I was curious to see how others mounted their speedo with a fat bar and a stabilizer in the way.
New XR400 rack available from ManRacks.
Those familiar with the XR650L thread will recognize ADV's JunglePlant as the go-to guy for rear racks and other gadgets for
their Big Red Pigs.
I had been contemplating fabbing up a rack for my XR4 like I had for my XL250 and DR250, but I ran out of pre-bent corners
in my scrap pile, so I emailed Mike at ManRacks and asked if he had something in the works that wasn't on his website.
As it turned out, he had been working on an XR400 rack, but didn't know anybody close at hand with an XR4 for test-fitting,
and would I be his guinea pig?
Here's a link: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=860392
I would like to see something just a tad wider tho
If a complete assembled 98 xr400 bike is being sold for parts only with the further qualification that "there are problems with the conrod", what $$$ might one have to spend up to to fix this "issue". Unfortunately, inspection and more information is difficult/impossible right now!
if you have to rebuild the motor, figure anywhere from $1000-1500 USD, and that is for a complete motor rebuild, new bearings, crank rebuild etc..if you split the cases, dont skimp on parts, do it right.
Is that an estimate of a DIY rebuild or doing it yourself? (sans machine work of course)
Thanks for that. I'm assuming that the crank cases do not need replacing and that your figure is for me doing the work not a garage.
correct, DYI..double it and add an extra $500 if you have a dealer do it..seems like alot BUT, you do it right and CLEAN, you will have a reliable motor that will last a long while.
Are you feeling generous/kind?! I don't want to read 5000 odd posts to find out the weak points of a 98 xr4. Can they be summed up in 3-4 lines?
Hmmm..lets see..they are dependable, but not indestructible..I killed my old original 440 and we found another one on ebay..dont know any history of the new to me 440..just changed the oil, adjust the valves, installed a new cam chain adjuster and a new cam chain, and this new to me 440 has been very good to me..starts every time, takes me for a ride and brings me home and has done so the past 4 years..I put a little over 30,000 miles on it since and as I said, I don't have any history on this motor and no way to know how many miles were already on it..so if you rebuild your motor, and I would suggest stay close to stock bore..I am going to rebuild my blown motor and will go from a 440 down to the 416...overall, the XR400 series is a great motor and will last a long time if you take care of it. I say rebuild it, it'll be worth it.
1996-2004 Honda XR400R Pros & Cons...
Post numbers 78, 108, 391-98, 623, 859-62, 1536, 1541, 1592-93, 1810-14, 2241-42, 2825, 3148-49, 3178, 3242-48, 4187-88, 4777, 5086, 5194, & 5297
XR400 F.A.Q. & General Information...
Post numbers 978, 1654, 2012-13, 2084, 2424, 2432, 3125, 3597-3600, 4076-77, 4092, 4103, 4400-4405, 4413, 4554, 4627, 4658-59, (4679-80, 4683), 4750, 5025-27, & 5129
may have a line on something you'd be interested in.
friend of mine is about to acquire my xr4 as a guinea pig to make a template for a rack design.
He made one for his new DR650 and I like to the looks, and he likes the idea of making them for different bikes.
I'll dig up a pic of what he made for the DR and post it to give you an idea.