The XT350 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Burtonridr, Sep 26, 2007.

  1. JensEskildsen

    JensEskildsen Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,093
    Location:
    Denmark
    People are so smart inhere....:cry

    Then I guess this must be the beefiest xt350 fork I've ever come across :wink:
    [​IMG]

    Caliper relocation bracket, so original caliper can be used:
    [​IMG]

    I checked valve clearences yesterday, 0.12 on intake, and 0.18 on exhaust, slighly too much, but I left them there for now. Really just wanted to open her up and have a look. She looks nice inside, no sound from the slightly loose valves, and the cam chain tensioner wasnt all the way out, so hopefully im good.

    I do however, have some clutch slippage in 3-6 gear when I gun it. The bike came with a lot of spare parts, incl some other (used) clutch plates. I'll meassure thoose and see if they're in spec. Perhaps I'll look around for some harder clutch springs aswell, time will tell.

    The bike has a rough idle, occasionally it sounds like it doesnt fire on a single stroke, then idles fine for 5 secs, and misses again. Sometimes the engine stalls. I've set the idle higher now (a little too high) and she idles fine. I think I saw someone having the same troubles and fixed it, but cant remember what fixed it. Perhaps some advance/retard of the timing? :huh

    I tried, as a quick fix, to back out the CO screw half a turn, but it didnt help.
  2. xt4ever

    xt4ever Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2010
    Oddometer:
    80
    Location:
    Z, Spain
    No punch was intended, sorry.

  3. xt4ever

    xt4ever Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2010
    Oddometer:
    80
    Location:
    Z, Spain
    A little bit out of spec the EX and just in the limit the IN. My Clymer manual says 0.07-0.12 IN and 0.13-0.17 EX

    It's very usual to find plates and springs in eBay

    I would begin adjusting the valves, anyway you're going to need to do it more sooner than later

    HTH
  4. JensEskildsen

    JensEskildsen Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,093
    Location:
    Denmark
    Hi thanks :freaky

    My clymer says the same things regarding valveclearences. Im new to the whole shim-thing, but dont they only come in 0.05mm steps, which would take them all to the close side of the spec instead? I would prefer them looser over tighter :-) I really like the adjusternuts on the xt600 :shog

    My spare set of clutch plates meassures just about new (both friction and metal), so perhaps I should fit them. I just changed the oil, wonder if that have messed with the clutch? Its 5w40 fulsynthetic (freezing temps currently), the same stuff my xt600 gets in the winter, with no trouble.

    The manual mentiones an adjuster nut on the clutch (behind the clutchcover), could that be in need of adjustement, or is it more likely that the plates are just worn? I guess I'll have a look sometimes soon. But any advice/help is much appreciated. :clap
  5. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,159
    Location:
    Kiwiland
    Why yes, yes we are.
    Triumph Scrambler Intiminators will improve the fork action considerably.
  6. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,159
    Location:
    Kiwiland
    Mine was loosing about 2.5L per tank due to 21 year old gaskets in the carbs...
  7. Indiesol

    Indiesol Putz

    Joined:
    May 9, 2012
    Oddometer:
    46
    Location:
    Portland/Vancouver
    Haha! Right on the money about the vent tube, Greattdog. Went to work on the bike and it was running right as rain. I remembered about your post, and also how bad it was raining the day I was having issues. I believe some of the sheets of water that were coming down managed to get in my vent tube (which was not a 1 way hose) and caused the issue. I picked up a one way vent hose and haven't had a problem since. Thanks for your help.
  8. JensEskildsen

    JensEskildsen Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,093
    Location:
    Denmark
    Dont they require revalving/shimmig for them to work properly? And do they really fit the wider TT forks?

    Anyhoot: I have no suspension issues at all, so no plans of futher upgrading....but thanks :nod
  9. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,159
    Location:
    Kiwiland
    Just replace with 5w oil instead of the original 10w. Done.

    I spent quite a bit of time emailing back and forth with Ricor to find something that would work, and for the TT350 slider internal measurement, the Scrambler Intiminators were the best match.

    Then I had to spend some time changing shims to work out the best setup as they are a leeeeetle over damped for the TT :rofl

    The only downside is you can't preload the forks to pop the front up over obstacles as easily due to the anti-dive characteristics...
  10. jan.van.gent

    jan.van.gent Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2011
    Oddometer:
    116
    Thanks for the help!
    I have an ultrasonic cleaner at my work. Can I remove the carbs from the bike and just toss them in the cleaner? Or do I nead to remove all the rubbers etc.?
  11. SkidMarx

    SkidMarx Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,477
    Location:
    Ortonville, MI
    Pretty sure it depends on what's in the cleaner. I know Grreatdog had his done way back when and it worked wonders. That's why I suggested it. Maybe he can answer that better.

    I would definitely take the bowl off so that's one gasket.
    I would also remove the 3 jets and Pilot screw. 2 jets in primary carb + screw, 1 in secondary. That makes the jet/screw o-rings easy to remove (and inspect)
    The big question is do you remove the diphram from the secondary. Not sure about that.
    That's me though. Just dumping the whole thing in there may work fine also.
  12. gearheadE30

    gearheadE30 Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,075
    Location:
    Indiana

    Is that oil motorcycle-specific? Automotive engine oil is not designed to work with wet clutches, and the friction modifiers will soak into the clutch fibers and prevent them from grabbing the plates. It won't get worse if you go back to motorcycle oil, but it might not get any better either. It doesn't take long to make a big difference.

    Also, for the carb leak stuff. I was riding one day and the oring on the float bowl drain screw started leaking. Bizarre problem, but it leaked like crazy and due to wind blowing across the engine, it sprayed upwards and always looked like it was coming from higher on the carb.
  13. Grreatdog

    Grreatdog Long timer

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2007
    Oddometer:
    13,204
    Location:
    Annapolis, MD
    Ultrasonic carb cleaners use ultrasonic carb cleaning solution or parts washer fluid. Seriously.

    But you could probably buy a $75 Harbor Freight model and just fill it with carb cleaner or Simple Green. If you use anything combustible like carb cleaner be damned careful because it does generate some heat.

    If you use your wife's jewerly cleaner I have never met you or given any advice about this stuff. :lol3
  14. SkidMarx

    SkidMarx Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,477
    Location:
    Ortonville, MI
    I hear Pine-Sol works wonders also.
    Wife's jewerly cleaner is too small for anything but jets. Not that I would EVER use it for that.:evil
  15. JensEskildsen

    JensEskildsen Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,093
    Location:
    Denmark
    Yeb, sure is. But thanks for the suggestion.
  16. Lenz1

    Lenz1 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2010
    Oddometer:
    141
    Location:
    Queensland Australia
    I've got a few pics of the dual oil cooler setup on Photobucket. Smugmug wouldn't fly for me.

    Could someone tell me how to post pics please. I've tried the "Insert Image" button but it doesn't like the Photobucket file address/name that I copied /pasted into the URL address.
  17. Grreatdog

    Grreatdog Long timer

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2007
    Oddometer:
    13,204
    Location:
    Annapolis, MD
    Photobucket gives you the image code under the picture or in a box off to the side depending on how you are viewing it. You just copy and paste the code directly into your post without using any of the controls here.

    The code should look like:

    [IMG ]http://i427.photobucket. com/albums/pp354/grreatdog/TommyYoakum.jpg[/IMG ]
    (spaces added so the code would show up)

    Which posts this:

    [​IMG]
  18. Lenz1

    Lenz1 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2010
    Oddometer:
    141
    Location:
    Queensland Australia
  19. webmonstro

    webmonstro A Aventura Continua....

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2008
    Oddometer:
    615
    Location:
    Portugal
  20. Lenz1

    Lenz1 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2010
    Oddometer:
    141
    Location:
    Queensland Australia
    My apologies for crashin around in the china shop

    The pic sequence is probably best viewed from the bottom up.

    Summary of this oil cooler solution is 2 coolers sourced from wrecked 4WD vehicles, I kept all the connectors that went with the coolers.

    Parallel gussets were welded into the frame and light mild steel tubing used as the main outer mount element (MOME). I fabricated some "T" pieces that rotated around the MOME so the existing outer lugs on the cooler could be tied into. Got sick of chasing heat resistant rubber washers so I cut the rubbermounts/ spacers out of a reasonably serviceable radiator hose with a hole saw.

    The inner mounts are attached to the fuel tank support mounts. The two pipe spacers shown in the pics of the inner mounts are temporary as they are replaced by the tank mounts when the tank is fitted.

    The piping for the hot feed line runs from the top of the oil filter casing, flexible shielded line into a single steel line at the front of the frame downtube. The feed line branches into the coolers via hand bent steel tube that is silversoldered into the original cooler fittings.

    The cooled "return" lines run up from the bottom of the cooler to find space away from the decompression assembly then into a single return line into the engine (lower fitting). The return lines have been insulated from further heat from exhaust / engine with a woven fibreglass tubing I sourced from an electric motor rewinding shop.

    No leaks from the cooler system on todays startup. The 20thou that was taken off the head, new rings, valve touchup and light cylinder hone has definitely raised the compression. The engine has that special "crackle" to it now

    More pics of the carbie / inlet changes are pending

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]