The XT350 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Burtonridr, Sep 26, 2007.

  1. The Full Monty

    The Full Monty Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    97
    Location:
    Clear Lake Shores, TX
    Thanks for the info SkidMarx, I was able to get the rpm down a little (~1,800) and the engine sounds good. It does take a loooong time to warm up though. I am just going to ride it for a while, before I make any other adjustments!

    Capsicum- Looking forward to hearing what works best....


    Oh, and thanks for the heads up on the black font...:1drink
    #81
  2. Capsicum

    Capsicum Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2008
    Oddometer:
    26
    Location:
    Tacoma
    The tires and handlebar are on backorder. ETA for the rear tire is next week, front is the first week of Oct., and there is no eta availible for the oem handlebar. :cry I was hoping to judge the new handling with two new tires and a nice straight bar.
    At least I can judge the effect of the front and rear separately now and my front tire still has enough life to last through Oct..
    I can still fidle with the gearing though.:wink:
    #82
  3. The Full Monty

    The Full Monty Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    97
    Location:
    Clear Lake Shores, TX
    A bolt is broken off on the right exhaust manifold flange.:cry It is difficult to get to, because of the frame is in the way. It has been that way since I purchased the bike, but it did not seem to be leaking so I just wired the flange down so it would not rattle. But today, I noticed a rat tat tat tat sound and I THINK I saw the exhaust pipe vibrating away from the manifold (just a few thousands). I am now starting to worry that the exhaust may etch a grove in the aluminum cylinder head.
    <o:p> </o:p>
    So…..I think it is time to make this repair.:puke1 At first I thought best way is to remove the engine and have a local machine shop drill it out.
    <o:p> </o:p>
    But after looking at it again, I think I might try first with a left hand drill bit. It will require removing the exhaust manifold, wheel and shocks, so that I can drill it straight. Has anyone else had this problem or know of a better fix….other then buying a new cylinder head!
    #83
  4. SkidMarx

    SkidMarx Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,378
    Location:
    Ortonville, MI
    Get an EZ-Out. You need to be carefull and make sure you dont walk the drill off the bolt and into the AL head. It will chew up the head in a hearbeat. I had one of mine strip out a while back so I put thread inserts in all of them. It's much stronger, and it helps with corrosion since it's steel on steel now instead of steel on AL. I also use a healthy dose of Anti-Sieze just in case.
    You may need to pull the head. It would be very dificult to get to the holes near the frame.
    #84
  5. The Full Monty

    The Full Monty Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    97
    Location:
    Clear Lake Shores, TX
    A guy that I work with has a machine shop. I don’t think I am going to mess around with it, I am going to pull the head and have him machine it out. SkidMarx, do you remember what size inserts you used? Or even what size bolts are used?
    #85
  6. Grreatdog

    Grreatdog Long timer

    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2007
    Oddometer:
    12,748
    Location:
    Annapolis, MD
    With aluminum I skip the easy outs and just drill through the bolt with progressively larger bits until I can get the threads or whatever is left of the bolt out. I have done too many to remember like that on outboards.

    IMO it is better to drop the motor (easy on an XT350) for an easy shot at drilling that bolt out than to pull the head off. Besides if you screw up with aluminum any decent welding shop can fill and retap your screw up.

    I am a strong believer in high temp anti-seize for those bolts.
    #86
  7. SkidMarx

    SkidMarx Long timer

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    Mar 27, 2006
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Ortonville, MI
    I like Grreatdogs suggestions better than mine. Especially the dropping the motor instead of pulling the head part.
    #87
  8. Grreatdog

    Grreatdog Long timer

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    If you do it, start with a SHARP drill bit maybe half the diameter of the bolt or smaller and work up from there so you don't get into the threads. The first hole is tough. SO DON'T BREAK THE DRILL BIT OFF. The reason I don't like easy outs is because if - no make that - when they break off they are a #@*^% to drill through. Same for a broken off drill bit.

    So be careful starting out, take your time and don't go too deep. Use the other holes to mark the drill bit. After that first hole it is easy to make the hole progessively larger until you can back whatever is left of the bolt out. You might need to buy the correct size tap to clean it out after drilling if the threads are really corroded into the head.
    #88
  9. moonie527

    moonie527 Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 26, 2008
    Oddometer:
    40
    Location:
    Central Iowa
    Thought I'd chime in here. I just bought this '89 xt350 for $600 last week (actually I'm trading some electrical work that the owner was going to pay me $600 for :wink: ). It has 8900 miles on it and starts on the first or second kick. Other than a small dent in the tank it's in great condition although it does need some routine maintenance. I'm going to order a new chain and sprockets (worn) as well as new handlebars (tweaked a little) and various other small parts. I'll probably have tons of questions as it is my first bike and I have yet to receive my Clymers for it so any advice is appreciated.

    [​IMG][/IMG]
    #89
  10. moonie527

    moonie527 Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 26, 2008
    Oddometer:
    40
    Location:
    Central Iowa
    Okay, first question. I took the bike out for a short 5 mile ride today and noticed that there was oil leaking from the oil fill plug. Unscrewed the plug, cleaned it and the area, then tightened it back down and went back out riding. Got home and noticed that there was oil seeping from the same place, is this common, or should I be worried?
    #90
  11. Grreatdog

    Grreatdog Long timer

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    Location:
    Annapolis, MD
    Was there an o-ring on the plug? If not, there should be. I used to tighten mine with a wrench to keep if from leaking even with a decent o-ring.

    BTW, my wife just looked over my shoulder and asked if I was missing my old bike. She said yours looks like mine did when we got married in 87. The answer was no - I was only admiring how virgin it looks. :thumb

    Good find. Mine lasted 17 years. All that's left now:

    [​IMG]
    #91
  12. SnoDrtRider

    SnoDrtRider Got Snow?

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,648
    Location:
    South Jersey... Close to the Pines
    Sounds like you are missing the "O" ring on the fill plug.
    #92
  13. jegrmajstr

    jegrmajstr thumper tourer

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2008
    Oddometer:
    135
    Location:
    Slovenia, Europe
    Since there aren't many of us here with the 350's, I'll go on and intruduce my little pet :)
    This is my 15-year-old XT 350, which went through a transformation from a worn dual-sport to a lightweight enduro-tourer :)
    I bought the bike last year, and because it was a bit worse for wear, but the engine was ok I took it apart during the winter and completly rebuilt it.

    necessary overhaul:
    - changed the fork oil (15w)
    - lowered the circlip on the rear shock
    - changed the worn clutch pads
    - changed the front disc for a Braking disc, with new brake pads, also changed the rear brake shoes
    - swapped the stock exhaust for a Fabi Power
    - installed new, smaller indicators
    - changed the stock rubber brake line for a braided steel brake line
    - swapped the stock light with an H4
    - new chain & sprocket set

    touring upgrade:
    - reupholstered seat (comfort :thumbsup: )
    - MotoDetail 42l topcase (old 29l Kappa on pics)
    - Wintex saddle bags (had to make brackets for them)
    - Sigma Sport speedo/travel computer
    - Renthal handlebars (better hand position)
    - Michelin Sirac front and Pilot Activ rear tyre)

    The bike handles and runs great, it gives me 50-60mpg with cruising speed at 60-70mph (occasional bursts up to 80mph at overtaking) and it'll scrape a peg with no problem on tight and twisty roads, but there are still some tinkering that awaits the bike:

    - rejetting and airbox mods for a bit more power
    - oil cooler
    - crash bars (home made ofcourse :D )
    - manifold heat wraps
    - 20T countershaft sprocket for a bit more useful road speeds
    - spacers in the front forks
    - new mirrors and handguards

    Here are some pics:

    before:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    during:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    after:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    on the road:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    This is all so far, an XT a bit out of the ordinary D-S league, but still a small andventure bike (I sometimes joke that all it needs now is a bigger tank and it will be the world's first 350 Tenere :) )

    PS: you can see the full galery here: http://www.bikepics.com/members/jegrmajstr/93xt350/ and a short film http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VI5d7oXkWGE
    #93
  14. seriousracer

    seriousracer be a man dodge tree bark

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2007
    Oddometer:
    7,434
    Location:
    i am not f***ng stupid,but i used too. niles mi.
    ohhh wow..... need to post a pic of my old girl even after the wife dropped it this weekend (her daughter crashed on her 200 ) that old girl is barely broken in. replace the tensioner and keep the idle up around for 1800 for good oil pressure for the tensioner. i just bought another one for 50 dollars that he had it idling way to low and the tensioner jumped.
    #94
  15. moonie527

    moonie527 Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 26, 2008
    Oddometer:
    40
    Location:
    Central Iowa
    I've noticed that mine has acquired the habit of idling around 3k when it is warmed up with the choke in. I assume it is an air leak and tried spraying some carb cleaner around the carb boot but there was no noticeable change in rpm or anything. I pulled the air filter and the foam element has a large hole in the center and the rest was crumbling away. Could this be the cause or should I look for something else?
    #95
  16. jegrmajstr

    jegrmajstr thumper tourer

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2008
    Oddometer:
    135
    Location:
    Slovenia, Europe
    That hole in the filter is 99,9% to cause of the increased idling. Replace the filter, and then you'll see what you're up against.
    #96
  17. moonie527

    moonie527 Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 26, 2008
    Oddometer:
    40
    Location:
    Central Iowa
    I just ordered a new element. By the way, I'm diggin' the flat black Road Warrior look of your bike but I think my wife would kill me if I did that to mine. Would enduro/touring be called an entouro?
    #97
  18. jegrmajstr

    jegrmajstr thumper tourer

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2008
    Oddometer:
    135
    Location:
    Slovenia, Europe
    Hehe thanks, yes it is kinda mad max style like some friends commented it, but when I was rebuilding the bike the man who did the paint offered me a matt black version instead of the ordinary gloss finnish, and I just went for it :)
    Hmm interesting question, what about a touroduro instead of an entouro :D Whatever it is, I'm going to try and reach 60 000 miles (25 000 so far ) and a couple of good long trips throughout Europe with this bike, let's see if these babies are really as tough as their reputation:D
    #98
  19. The Full Monty

    The Full Monty Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    97
    Location:
    Clear Lake Shores, TX
    Ok, so now I am totally depressed. I just pulled the head off the XT, so that I could get at the broken bolt that was in the exhaust manifold port…..well it was not a broken bolt. Sometime in the past, the threads must have stripped and the hole was filled with epoxy. I have cleaned most of the epoxy out and there is NO metal left on the head side. :cry
    <o:p> </o:p>
    Does anyone know how to fix this thing? I was considering welding, but it is super close to the head. Obviously, epoxy will not work and a new head is $550……..maybe I should just part the poor thing out. :cry
    #99
  20. jegrmajstr

    jegrmajstr thumper tourer

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2008
    Oddometer:
    135
    Location:
    Slovenia, Europe
    That's a bitch... But there's still some hope left for the old girl :) If the epoxi doesn't cut it, what about liquid metal (something like epoxi, but much more durable, harder and more resistant to heat)? I don't know how you call the stuff in the US, but i think you get the point. We used this stuff to repair cracked engine cases and failed attempts to tune the channels in a 2-stroke engine, worked every time (even managed to get a 70cc scooter to reach more than 70mph with a engine case patched up this way) :D