The XT350 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Burtonridr, Sep 26, 2007.

  1. The Full Monty

    The Full Monty Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    97
    Location:
    Clear Lake Shores, TX
    <link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5CMonty%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> <link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5CMonty%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> <o:p> </o:p>
    Liquid metal might work….something like Belzona. Here is a photo of the hole. <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <u1:WordDocument> <u1:View>Normal</u1:View> <u1:Zoom>0</u1:Zoom> <u1:punctuationKerning/> <u1:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <u1:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</u1:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <u1:IgnoreMixedContent>false</u1:IgnoreMixedContent> <u1:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</u1:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <u1:Compatibility> <u1:BreakWrappedTables/> <u1:SnapToGridInCell/> <u1:WrapTextWithPunct/> <u1:UseAsianBreakRules/> <u1:DontGrowAutofit/> </u1:Compatibility> <u1:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</u1:BrowserLevel> </u1:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <u2:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </u2:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]-->What is weird is that there is a hole going back into the block. I am not sure if this is just a void from when it was cast or something that is supposed to be there…or not.<o:p></o:p>




    [​IMG]
  2. moonie527

    moonie527 Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 26, 2008
    Oddometer:
    40
    Location:
    Central Iowa
    I've seen JB Weld work wonders. Cracked blocks on circle track cars as well as reshaping intake ports that have been ground through. Won't hurt to try.
  3. Grreatdog

    Grreatdog Long timer

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    If the bike is worth saving, I would take it to a welding shop that does aluminum to get the hole filled and retapped. A decent shop won't charge very much for that little bit of work.

    However, "very much" is a relative term and depends on whether or not the bike is worth it. It will be at least a couple of hundred dollars to repair right.

    Parted out minus the munched head mine only brought $450 on eBay including a Clarke tank, Supertrapp exhaust, rejetted carb and clean title for the frame. So there isn't much to be made parting them out and it is a headache with all the losers on eBay.

    But check around and find out which welding shops work with aluminum motors before getting it done. I have had both outboards and motorcycles repaired with similar problems.

    And I have had both good and bad work returned. But all were useable. One of the advantages of aluminum is that it is relatively easy to repair. But you want a shop that will grind it back like it was and tap the hole in the right place.
  4. jegrmajstr

    jegrmajstr thumper tourer

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    Aug 31, 2008
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Slovenia, Europe
    I remember that one of you used home made PowerNow inserts, but the webpage that originaly had plans with dimensions on doesn't work anymore. So has anyone an AutoCad image or anything useful so I can make them myself?

    Thanks, Tom
  5. The Full Monty

    The Full Monty Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    97
    Location:
    Clear Lake Shores, TX
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"><meta name="ProgId" content="Word.Document"><meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 11"><meta name="Originator" content="Microsoft Word 11"><link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CDOCUME%7E1%5CMonty%5CLOCALS%7E1%5CTemp%5Cmsohtml1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:punctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> I found a used head on ebay for $200 and went ahead and got it. Hopefully, it will be in as good of shape as the seller says it is in. :deal<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p> </o:p>
    A question: When I was removing the head, the block pulled loose from the pan. It did not tear the gasket. I am thinking that I can just clean the sealing surfaces and bolt it back up. Any thoughts?:ear<o:p></o:p>
  6. SkidMarx

    SkidMarx Long timer

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    Should be OK if you really need to watch the $$$. There is a big o-ring at cylinder base so even if the base gasket isn't perfect it shouldn't blow out. A little Gasket sealer wouldn't hurt. My current base gasket is garbage and I still only gave a little seepage (It was a temp fix that now has a few thousand miles on it:eek1 ).
    But,
    Spend the extra money on an OEM head gasket though. I know the Vesrah one I got was not very good, other brands may be better. I bought a gasket kit and ended up raplacing the head gasket with OEM. A visual comparison will tell you if the aftermarket one is any good. It was pretty obvoius. The kit will include a base gasket and exhaust gaskets which you will also need plus a bunch of others you may need. The head gasket it the only one of questionable quality.
    I know it's very tempting to go as cheap as possible, but it will likely come back and bite you (BTDT). Since you don't know the history of the head, at the minimum, lap the valves and replace the valve seals. I took mine into my dealer (who I trust) and had it done. I sent the cams along and had them do the adjustment. It saved me having to buy shims. They just put the correct ones in and kept my old ones for the 'shim bin'. The price was reasonable since they didn't have to deal with removal or instalation on the bike.
    While you have the head off, check the piston rings and cylinder for wear. It may be a good time to get a hone and rings.
    The leaky exhaust was likely making the bike run lean, but I would seriously consider replacing the intake boots.
    You can end up with a partially rebuilt engine that may have issues in a few years or a mostly rebuilt engine that will last many thousand miles.
    Your choice.
  7. jegrmajstr

    jegrmajstr thumper tourer

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2008
    Oddometer:
    135
    Location:
    Slovenia, Europe
    No one?:ear
  8. The Full Monty

    The Full Monty Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    97
    Location:
    Clear Lake Shores, TX

    jegrmajstr--wish I could help! But I don't even know what Powernow Inserts are! :eek1

    SkidMarx--that is some excellent advice.:D I had not thought of having my dealer lap the valves and check clearances….that is an excellent idea. I have been purchasing most of the new parts (OEM) from http://www.babbittsonline.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx . This includes new head gasket and exhaust gaskets, I have already replaced the boots.
    <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
    As far as the lower base gasket, it was not the money so much as another order and waiting for it to arrive, I will check it close. I will look at the rings and cylinder as well.
    <o:p></o:p>
    Now the only question is, should I go ahead and pull the whole engine off and blast/coat the frame!
  9. SkidMarx

    SkidMarx Long timer

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    I did.
    It also gave me a chance to inspect and lube the suspension, stearing head and wheel bearings.
    Plus I like taking things apart.
    Once the engine is out, you don't have much farther to go.

    If the base gasket is in good shape, I'd reuse it. Mine was on and off 2 or 3 times and it never leaked until now.

    I'm the one with the home made PowerNow inserts. Honestly, I don't know if it was worth the hastle, but it was winter and I was bored.
    I did get the template from the website, but I wasn't able to get the scale perfectly. I used some flashing from Home Depot and did a lot of trial and error got it to work. I'll see if I can find one of the templates pages I printed. It will at least give you the general shape.
    Did they help?
    I don't know. I did so much stuff it's hard to tell what made the most differance. The bike does run cleanly now through the entire throttle range so something worked. I think I lost a little on the bottom, but I gained it on the top. I do not have that annoying surge/hickup around 4500rpm like I used to.
    My bike needs a bore/piston/rings so it's kind of hard to know what the true benefits were.
  10. jegrmajstr

    jegrmajstr thumper tourer

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    Thanks for the answer, it'll be great if you can find those templates. I know that most likely there won't be any major difference at all, but like you said, winter and boredom (well, except that the winter won't be here for 2 months :D ). I'll be taking the carb apart anyway because of the rejetting (130/120 + airbox mod) so while I'm there I'll do all the stuff intended for the carb.
    I just got the bike back from the dealers because of the valve clearance checks, and the valves are still within the stock clearance at 25 000 miles:clap Gotta love this little tank :)
  11. The Full Monty

    The Full Monty Adventurer

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    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Clear Lake Shores, TX
    Found something interesting on the old head that I am going to replace. Under the valve lifters, but above the valve spring retainers there are flat washers. I don’t see these flat washers listed anywhere on the part breakdown and think they were added as shims. Has anyone else seen something like this? It really does not matter, because I am changing the head, but I am curious.
  12. seriousracer

    seriousracer be a man dodge tree bark

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    i am not f***ng stupid,but i used too. niles mi.
    above the vlave springs? as in it was between the follower and the retainer?
  13. SkidMarx

    SkidMarx Long timer

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    There is a washer between the spring and the head so the spring doesn't grind away at the Aluminium. It's called the valve spring seat on the parts diagrams. Maybe it was put together wrong.
    There shouldnt be anything between the bucket and the spring except for the retainer.
  14. The Full Monty

    The Full Monty Adventurer

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    Yes, above the retainer.

    Have not removed the valves, but these washers do not look like the valve spring seat. It just looks wrong to me......
    <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
  15. jegrmajstr

    jegrmajstr thumper tourer

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    I have a question...
    How drastic is the change in fuel consumption after rejetting (130/120, pilot screw adjustment and an 1'' wide hole in the airbox)? I'm asking just for info, because the bike is due for uncorking anyway.
  16. SkidMarx

    SkidMarx Long timer

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    I'm going to guess -5mpg. It may also have something to do with the way I ride it with a little extra juce.:evil
  17. jegrmajstr

    jegrmajstr thumper tourer

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    Great, that's minimal:D I know it's an educated guess, but if it's under 10mpg it's nothing. We'll see if the bike can reach 90 mph or even more, with proper longer gearing ofcorse:D
  18. nails1

    nails1 nails1

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    Location:
    New Mexico
    Does anyone happen to know the p/n for the rubber diaphram on the secondary carb throttle valve? This doesn't appear on the fiche, and it's too hard to talk to a real parts person these days.
  19. nails1

    nails1 nails1

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    Oddometer:
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    I expect an increase in mileage with proper jetting. Of course, that gets balanced against the fun factor effects of having a bike that actually runs right.

    I got 85mph (indicated) even with a nasty high-speed miss. I get up to 75mpg riding mellow (twin-track or country roads), but down to about 50mpg on the freeway (ie. wringing it's neck).

    After further jet testing this weekend, I think my miss is really a bad condensor. For the carbs, I'm looking at 124/112 main jets, which is consistent with what you flatlanders are reporting (my house is 7500 ft, where there's about 6% less air in the air).
  20. SkidMarx

    SkidMarx Long timer

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    Honestly, I don't pay that much attention to what mpg I'm getting anymore.
    I can ride to work all month on $60 which is 1/4 the cost of driving my Jeep.
    -5 mpg = about $1 per fill up. No big deal.
    I could likely gain some of that back by taking it easy, but for a dollar, I can ride it like I stole it.