Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Burtonridr, Sep 26, 2007.
i've seen these guys mentioned. no personal experience though.
All Bike Brakes has the lines.
Change your spark plug,at high altitude your are running very rich and could easily foul the plug
I have a complete transmission for the XT in good condition if you are interested,but do not know how much the shipping would be fron US.
Thanks for the responces.
I cleaned, oiled and replaced air filter. Was dirtier than i expected.
Put in a new spark plug. Still not getting anything. Not even a cough. Looks like i am getting spark, but maybe not getting any gas in the cylnder? All my mechanical skill have come from experimenting and reading the internet, so they aren't great.
What is the spark plug gap? I read on another thread .7-.8. Is this correct.
Anyother ideas before i take it to a pro.
After you try to start it remove the plug and see if it is wet with fuel then you will know if the cylinder is getting fuel.Then hook spark plug back up and lay against the cylinder(use the clutch cable to hold it in place)and kick over to check for a good blue spark.It will probably be easier if someone else kicked it over while you watch for spark.I think the plug cap you stated is correct.
I got a nice spark, but no fuel in the cylinder. Plug not wet or even smells of gas after kicking it for a minute or so.
Do I dare go exploring in the carb for a fuel delievry issue or find me a mechanic that will work for cheap? For the record I know nothing about carbs but do have a pretty good mechnical mind.
The fuel filter looks new and fuel is flowing freely through it.
Also, when I got the bike it had what looked like the original air filter in it. Which had about a 3 in hole right through the center, with most the foam missing. Could some of this be stuck somewhere in the carb and making things not work correctly? It had to go somewhere.
Been off here for a while, meandering the country side on my ST1100. Lots of adventure there! (http://picasaweb.google.com/cattmando)
Anyhoo, some may recall I was having an electrical problem, no charging. Went thru the book, changed out the regulator to no avail, then the coils. Still no go. Ugh!
While messing about, I unplugged the headlight to take off the front, just getting more access. Started the bike again and...
CHARGE! (and I don't mean General Custer.) Seems the 55/60 W H4 bulb was sucking up all the available amps, none left for the battery. Replaced with a stock 35/35 and all seems well.
So, who has the 'structions for rewinding the generator coils? I need more juice!
I would just send it to these guys and let them upgrade it. I got great service from them when I have the CB stator upgraded. Cost $90 plus shipping.
Can anyone verify that the allen nut inside the fork tube is a 17mm?? Somewhere in this thread someone was talking about using all-thread and 17mm nuts to make a fork tool, couldn't find by searching. Thanks!
So what is the valve adjusting tool and where can I get one? Cycle Gear thinks I'm nuts and the lady on the phone at Dennis Kirk was lost as soon as I said Yamaha XT350 .
I will need to check the cam chain and replace the cam cover gasket soon and the valves do make some noise when hot so I though now would be the best time to do it but want the tool before I pull it apart.
So I pulled out the battery and found that it is a 6 volt battery????:huh
Is this right?? All the lights are 12 volt ones. Did the PO put in the wrong battery?
Wrong battery. All XT350's were 12volt.
Just pull the valve cover with the engine at TDC and check the clearances with feeler gauges. If they're off, you'll have to see what shims are in there and replace each shim individually to get the correct valve clearance. Someone found the valve holding tool a few pages back, but I just pull the cams to make valve adjustments. Its only about 8 more bolts, and allows you to inspect the cams and head surface. Best investment you'd ever make is the Clymer service book for the XT. Walks you through all this stuff step by step so things don't get worse as they get removed and replaced
Check out post #836-839 in this thread. I wrote how I made my fork tool, someone else mentioned the axle bolt was also the correct size...
Truck6 - ditch the stock battery altogether and replace it with a little sealed 12v lead acid battery. You only need enough juice to run the brake light and turn signals at idle. Any more than that is just extra weight. Plus those sealed batteries cost less than buying a new Yuasa for the bike and last forever.
I ran my XT350 on a little Honda push mower battery doing souble duty starting the lawn mower and being in the bike. It was maybe the size of two packs of cigarettes, about 1/4 the weight of stock, lasted for years and it won't spill while you are crawling out from under the bike. It works 1000x better than stock or using a capacitor type battery eliminator.
And +1 on removing the cams to replace the shims. Mine only needed new shims like two or three times in 17 years. So don't stress over the Yamatool. If you need new shims just pull the cams. Be careful though because the cams run directly on the head casting. And you really, really need a Clymer.
PM me if you can't eBay or Amazon one.
You may find what i did at below links
That's the one, thanks Psycho! 22mm it is.
+1 on all of the above
IF you do need to remove the cams make sure you get the torque on the cam cap bolts right. Use an in/lb torque wrench if you can find one. My ft/lb wrench barely goes low enough. Odds are the valves are OK though.
I'm the guy who found the valve adjusting tool:
It's a little bit expensive, but I still recomend it