Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by CR_TurboGuy, Jan 21, 2007.
^ Nice. notice any difference with the carb and filter swap? A closeups?
Yes, I had to up the mains in both carbs and the needle setings [the reason behind the change]. The result is an awsome top end rush that will easily over rev if you don't shift in time. Before it was very flat with no acceleration at high RPM.The high end rush is almost 2 stroke on nature. Totally changed the nature of the bike with no loss of tourqe.
Made another change to the xt600 today. I removed the xt oil tank from the rear left side and installed an oil tank from a tt600 that goes in the frame where my battry box was. I'm running a battry eliminator and removed the battry box. This change moves the oil tank to a safer area and moves the wieght lower and more centralized. I can also run a wider rear tire.
well guys I just sold my XT600 so I will be leaving you and heading back to my KTM 640 ADV thread...
Before I go I want to mention that I have a spare rear wheel for sale and a spare tranny. PM me if interested.
I bought both when doing the rebuild but my tranny was good so did not need the spare I bought and the wheel I bought to make quick changes from streets to knobbies. The guy talked me down enough I did not want to be generous and hand over the spares!
So rear wheel is $90 plus shipping (but I will do the cheapest possible), and the tranny is $45 with shipping. I will be shipping these out of Kingston, Ontario Canada.
And that noise racheting from the right side is the auto decomp sticking is it not???
sent you message
Wish I had that big tank , the oil cooler and the disc guard. Looks like yours gets the job done too. nice
The only racheting noise I have ever heard comes from the kickstart when the motor is running and you are holding the kickstart lever down. It should stop when you release it. The noise comes from the kick shaft area. If you hear any from the decompression area you may have the arm adjusted too tight. There should be some play before it engages.
Always previously had conti trail attack, Looking for something more offroad but i want the chunky'est looking ones possble.. Anyone know of any decent offroad/onroad tyres that wont look too skinny 2003 XT600e
I fitted the Metzeler Enduro 3 Sahara tyres and am very happy with them.
Fitted the 130/80 size on the rear so it looks a bit fatter than standard.
Seem to be a good dual purpose as I ride about 50% road and 50% dirt.
I'm looking for tyres too, for my trip from Alaska to Argentine. I would like to buy tyres for the first part (Alaska-Mexico?) so there will be a lot of onroad i guess...
(for a XT600 2000 btw)
I have tried a few different tires and found the best for me conciering price, traction on and off road, and tire wear were kenda 270's. 510x 18 in back, they are 6 ply. For the front they have a 3.0 and a 3.5 available. They are sold as 50/50. I just bought a front from Dennis Kirk and paid 49 bucks. They also have 17 inch available for the newer bikes.
Right, I am stuck - my 3TB is slowly going back together and I am just trying to fit the swing arm but I am stuck. This is the parts diagram:
What has me foxed is on the main pivot - specifically parts #7 and #49. Now the diagram shows #7 between the swing arm and the rubber grommet #6 that fits inside the end cap #5
If I fit it up in this order the end cap and grommet don't fit on the end of the swing arm at all - the washer blocks them. To me it makes more sense that #7 fits inside the end cap and then the rubber grommet goes in - this them fits to the swing arm. Is the diagram wrong?
Finally what is #49? I don't seem to have that at all plus my chain roller seems to be way too loose between the flange on the swing arm and the frame - does #49 support the chain protector (#9)
Put 49 & 7 inside 5 followed by 6. 49 is to hold the washer (7) in place so the swinging arm pin (44) can go in easily. 49 is probably already inside 5.
Thanks very much - that was driving me mad!
Is there anything that stops the roller (#9) from moving around on the end cap? Mine seems to be quite loose (although that was when I had it fitted up without the #7 washers in the right place.
I'm interested in a bit more info on that TT600 carb swap if you'd feel up to chatting about it. I have a '84 XT and its showing its age compared to my buddies newer KLRs etc. What year range carb did you swap in and how is your gas mileage holding up? I can find used carbs online for a reasonable price. the adjustable needles would really help. Thanks!
Any first generation[84-89] tt600 carb will work. New models may work but I have never seen any. The tt carbs will give you a choke on the carb so you can ditch the bar mounted system and the cable. It will give you adjustable slide needles to help tune in any modifacations. You will loose the enrichment circuit but have not noticed any difference, but you do not have to worry about the diaphragm. I switched to get the adjustability of the needles and to ditch the bar mounted choke. When I switched from the stock air box and went to K&N pods I had to up the mains to keep from running lean. What I got a big rush of power at the upper RPM range where it was flat before. If you are keeping everything stock the only advantage would be getting rid if the bar mounted choke. However; if you are after more perfomance the carbs are sometimes cheeper than replacement jets. The tt carbs come with 135 main and 135 or 130 secondary. The xt carbs come with a 130 main and a 125 secondary. The air screws are different also. Getting more air makes a more of a difference than changeing the exhaust. If you have any questions let me know. My XT will dust my buddies KLRs. My mileage varies from 50 to 60 mpg depending on how had I push.
WOOOOOOOT!!! Thumpthumpthump, you're my hero.
With "performance parts for the XT's being scarce, just being able to throw in a new carb set and filters and get this sucker over 75 mph will help! (she really bogs down after about 60-65). Also if you would like to help me with my battery elimination setup I'd really appreciate it, what kind/size of capacitor did you install or did you buy a kit? Thanks again and happy thumpin!
With 15 primary and 45 secondary sprokets I can hit 100 mph at redline. It will try to go past that so you have to watch your tach.Accel makes makes the eliminator and cheep cycle parts .com sells it for 39.94. Just take battery and box out , make amount for your rectifier , and connect the battry cables to the condenser. Mount the condenser and your done. The eliminator is the size of a D battery and weighs about the same as ball of tinfoil. To correct an error in my last post the pilot jet is different not the air screw[oops]. To put the K&Ns on get a piece of exhaust pipe from an auto parts store and cut two pieces about 3/4 of an inch wide and incert them into the tubes that run from the air box to the carb. this will give you something to tighten the hose clamp down on when you mount the K&N pods. To keep the really heavy dirt off I put a green outer filter from a shop vac over both pods to act as a pre filter. Lowes hardware sells them for a couple of bucks.Let me know if you have any other questions. thumpthump
Thanks again Thumpthump. You got me all of the information I'll need to finish the mods. I was scheduled to do it this winter while the snow was falling but life happened. Anyways, I owe you a beer if you're ever on this side of the US.
I'll also try the 15/45 sprockets when I change em in a month or so and see if that's part of my problem. I'm not actually sure whats on there now. Its almost sunny and 56* out so I'm going to go thump around!