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Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by mr moto, Feb 9, 2008.
He said "undersprung" not underhung. Yeah I'm used the second one too.
Thinking out loud myself ... would it be possible to upgrade a 2011 to a Standard 2014? .... What could go wrong if you leave the old ECU (reflashed) and change the dashboard and the electricals together with the handlebar switches? The windshield and support is a no brainer but messing with the electronics is something different.
If I go this way instead of selling the Black Pearl then I'll keep you informed and ask for help here. Don't think Yamaha will give me a hand.
Because the 2011 tweaked as I have it has no other way to improve so I would change or upgrade only the bits that cannot be done now (cruise control and the switches that change the info on the display) ... don't need the extra HP or the thinner seat ... have Wasp's windshield system and use a Givi windshield ... also have the SW Motech handlebar with 1 inch raisers, perfect for my RocStompa steering dampener and also have the OEM heated grips and Kaoko cruise control.
I would have to pay USD$4000 extra to get a standard 2014 if I sell my 2011 which has been undergraded to a Super Tenere as you can see in the photos
And this is my Hyper on a recent trip with a friend and his KTM 1190 R testing the heat shields for him
With USD$4000 I can upgrade my Hyper Tenere to the future ... lol
Your bike is better than a stock 2014. The only difference is the different dashboard, electronic cruise control, and electronic suspension. Dashboard is a moot point, it's aesthetic unless is plugs into the electric widgets. You already have cruise control. Electronic adjustable suspension isn't better than a well sorted aftermarket suspension if it gives you another component to fail in the middle of nowhere and is still undersprung.
Put down the parts catalog and go riding.
Honestly I looked at the new 2014s and they had all the shiny gadgets that I was drooling over when the 1190 came out and all the features I wish my 2012 had. Then I seriously looked at the differences between me well farkled 2012 and then new 2014 and the only noteworthy difference was electronic cruise control and like that I was over it.
Save yourself a few thousands bucks and just make a new tool tube or get one of those stupid gremlin bells.
I encountered a weird downshifting issue on my s10 today. I went out for a long ride and about 120 miles in, the bike had trouble shifting from 2nd to 1st. No trouble going from 2nd to 3rd, 4th, etc. Only from 2nd to 1st. Riding in 2nd, I would pull the clutch lever all the way, press down on the shifter, and the lever would go down, but the transmission would not shift into 1st. I tried re-engaging the clutch, even giving it some gas, and then try downshifting again, but nothing.
Weird thing is that the problem was inconsistent. One stop light it wouldn't work. 2 minutes later at the next light everything shifts fine. 4 minutes later at the next light again no downshift.
For reference, I only have 1650 miles on my s10, of which I put on the last 700 miles. I didn't abuse the bike at all and mileage is really low for transmission failure.
From a quick search online I saw comments on oil and the shift pivot bolt. Modern oil is modern oil is modern oil, but who knows what the PO put in so I changed that out with a Bosch 3300 filter and Rotella T6. I would prefer an oem filter, but it's Sunday so I'm stuck with whatever is available from the local auto supply store. I haven't taken the s10 off-road yet so the shift pivot bolt was clean, but I wiped it off and relubed anyway.
Took the bike out for a 15 minute shakedown and the problem seems to be resolved and shifting is a bit smoother. If it comes up again, I'm taking it to the dealer and using the extended warranty.
FWIW, I have experienced similar to this when oil got old. Do you know for certain that the six hundred mile service, with an oil change, was done?
My first few outings on my new 2013 had me scratching my head about downshifting. I realized that at times, I hadn't allowed the shifter to completely reset (I was still pushing down on it slightly) before attempting to downshift again.
The cure, adjusted the shifter height and all was good.
The PO said he did the 600 mile service himself, but I didn't ask if he changed the oil so I'm not certain. Even so, 1650 miles is well below the 4k mile mark for changing oil.
Don't think it's my foot since I usually ride with the ball of my foot on the peg. A couple of times when I couldn't get it to shift, I lifted my foot off the shifter and kicked it down a bit harder. Still no luck then.
Maybe it has more to do with the shifter not completely returning to the neutral position. That's probably why some people reported success when they cleaned the shift pivot bolt.
The first oil change is due at 600 miles. That is the one that I'm curious about.
That's usually what the problem is. I have never heard of anything more serious.
Take your wife on a nice trip instead.
That's about the same conclusion I arrived at. I also heard from an informal source the some reviewers weren't that crazy about the new electronic suspension, they said (off the record) that even the older style BMW ESA worked better.
I was skeptical of those "wild claims" of fuel range no matter how easy you are on the throttle. Until it was revealed they were Colorado miles. That's entirely believable. I was stunned at the mileage I was getting there.
However, for you folks that actually live at those elevations, man you pay a huge performance price for those extended miles.
However, considering the playground, it's worth it. :)
Left California (sea level) with 35/32PSI in the tires.
3 days later sitting in a hotel in Durango (7000ft) going over the bike. Found 55PSI in both tires, cold!
Never paid attention to this type of thing before. It was riding very rough. Let a bunch of air out and it was normal again.
I will watch it now doing extreme elevation changes.
Are you sure it's not just your gauge. How does a tire go up in pressure by reducing the outside pressure?
Makes no sense.
Here's the explanation. The relatively small volume of motorcycle tires the effect is more dramatic than car or truck tires.