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Discussion in 'Land of the Rising Sun: ADV Bikes from Japan' started by mr moto, Feb 9, 2008.
Let the captions begin.
If you hold the button down while the trip odometer is not blinking, it changes to metric. You have to toggle from trip 1 to trip 2 to ODO and back to trip 1 (blinking now) to reset trip 1. Enjoy! The "F" count-up reserve odometer resets automatically when you fill the tank above reserve level.
Compared to an ST1300, the engine has more grunt down low when you really give the gas. The ST actually prefered to be spinning before it took off. And the ST's headlight was notoriously narrow of field. Thats one reason my bike had a pair of fog as well as driving lights.
Hey, who's complaining. The Super Ten is fun to ride!
For the reflash I highly recommend these guys.
The clutch mod to me is a Band-Aid approach to get rid of the low speed hiccup and
lower three gear restriction. It does make a noticeable difference and for next to nothing
in cost is worth trying out. Your bike will start in gear so keep that in mind.
The reflash is an upgrade in the programming of the ECU. Makes a STRONG difference in performance
in the S mode. T mode is almost tamer and a very distinct difference between the two. For me the S
mode is sometimes too responsive for minor throttle input. Running hard no big deal, just slight twists
result in a harder to smoothly control response. Switch to T mode and all is smooth, just a little boring.
Quick google search will give you all sorts insight.
Nice review overall. A couple minor things. The little button on the side of the instruments does not toggle the ABS. It toggles the TCS. Also, the ignition key is supposed to open the luggage. The bikes come with 3 extra locks that are keyed the same as the ignition and they are for the Yamaha luggage. If this is a pre owned S10, perhaps the previous owner had another key made as they were concerned with bending the ignition key?
I came from 3 previous ST1300's and although I loved them, I love the S10 a lot more. The only thing I miss is that electric windscreen.
Don't miss the heat on my legs, though.
I've seen some reviews concerned about the heat coming from the left side of the Super Ten. They've never ridden an ST1300 (even with the heat shield!).
My bike is a pre-owned. It came with two sets of keys. A long ignition key and a shorter key for the cases. Each has the black Yamana fob on the key.
I agree with you, those that think the S10 is hot have never ridden a ST1300. As I said, the previous owner must have had an extra key made for the luggage, as he was concerned about bending the ignition key. It doesn't have to be as long for the luggage. Try your ignition key (carefully) and if the luggage have the locks that came with the bike, the ignition key will open them. If it doesn't then those are not the locks that came with that bike. Some owners have bought pre owned Yamaha luggage and didn't get the luggage locks that come with every new S10.
Congrats on your new wheels. I too had a ST1300 and was looking for something lighter with more upright ergonomics. The Tenere has been a great bike to date for me and I hope you enjoy yours just as much!
Nope, its well beyond that stage ...
Thanks! That's useful info.
Start with the free Clutch Switch Mod. If that's not enough for you and it is for most of us, do the ECU Reflash.
Might want to do a bit of research on that "clutch switch mod" (also know as the CJM, or "clutch jumper mod") before you do more than a brief experiment with it... Ever since the ECU mapping got cracked via Flash-Tune it's been proven that the CJM has some potential consequences since it forces some odd ignition timing at WOT.
Lots of info over on the Super Tenere forum discussing the pros and cons.
The ECU re-flash has proven to be much more effective, and has fewer potential issues. Most folks who champion the CJM have simply never had the ECU re-flash, nor ridden a bike that has.
I've tried both, as have folks like Pluric, Twinrider, Tremor, Snakebitten, etc., etc., etc.... And the re-flash is light-years better than the CJM, and has no potential downsides. And if your really into doing your own tuning, then get the Flash-Tune ECU tap and do your own programming.
Just a quick question: Changing handle bars and I can not remember which side is up on the 2 clamps that hold the bar, is it the "thicker" side up or other way around and does that really matter such as would it increase the vibrations if it would be the other way?
yup, thicker side up!!
Any idea if other way would cause extra vibrations in the handlebar :-?
Or *have* ridden a flashed bike and are just galled at the thought of throwing $500 at a bike that should have been right for its $13K price.
Bottom line...stay out of WOT above 5K RPM and the CJM will do just fine.
Just as many owners will say they are happy with it stock. Don't even feel the need for the
clutch mod. It's all about expectations. Obviously some are higher than others.
I for one had excepted the fact this was not a fire breathing large D/S bike and was okay with it.
My original reflash corrected fueling issues and made the bike run smooth. Hiccup and surge free.
The second gen reflash made the bike run like I originally would have expected. Great power on tap
at all times and actually put a smile on my face pushing it hard. There is no going back now.
$500 seems like a modest investment to me to get that kind of performance in return. A good slip on
exhaust is almost twice that and won't give anything near the performance bump.
15 minutes on the Touratech site will eat up much more money in needless bolt on farkles that do nothing
to really enhance the use of the bike.
I'm sorry, but the comment to not go above 5K rpm has me scratching my head. I understand it
because pre reflash it really wasn't a game changer. Now it revs so willingly and gives such a reason
to play in that zone why would anyone not want to?
I don't want to start another debate Cjm vs ECU Reflash, never did, just would like to be pointed in the right direction, regarding cjm issues.
I guess I missed it.
I've been using that fuse for some time, and never had any issue.
Now I'm running stock, cause is keeping me away from wheelies but I was there... WOT in more than one occasion.
Edit: Found it!! Holly c... I knew there was a reason I took It out.
Hey everyone I was looking around the net and found a question on another website about fitting a smaller oil filter to the Super Tenere for wheel ans skid plate clearance. Well it would seem that the Super Tenere uses the same filter as a large multitude of bikes so I looked around and apparently the 660R Raptor uses a filter that will screw on but is 12mm shorter. The Yamaha part number for the Raptor oil filter is 5DM-13440-00-00. This may not be correct though and I can't really verify at the moment but It is worth a shot if someone is inclined to try.
Also just wanted to say love the Super Tenere and it is most defiantly in the running for my next bike.
Got my ECU flash last week. It did remove the restriction in the first gears (why did Yamaha put restriction in the first place?) so now it got good bottom end.
Noticed a bit more torque mid range.
Biggest change was the smoother gear changes and can now change gears without my pillion rider bump her head into my helmet, I like that.
Unfortunately it did nothing for the vibration, when others wrote smoother I thought it meant less vibes but it was not the case :-( so my chase for less vibes continue but running out of options, thought this mods would have helped: Aftermarket muffler, CO adjustment, adjusted sync screws, heavy one pounder end bar weights, Flexx bars, foam grips, different bar angles, ECU flash. Have not tried the Rox anti vibe risers and what about synthetic oil?
Spend too much money to sell it so I have to live with it until there is a bike that will suit me better.