The Yamaha TW200 Thread...

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by neepuk, Jan 10, 2009.

  1. rider33

    rider33 Long timer

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    kick start and drum brakes, this is going to be fun, I'll just have to see if I can find a nice vintage TW-thanks.
    #41
  2. switz

    switz Been here awhile

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    The kick start parts can be retrofitted to my 2008 TW200 for around $300. I hope to have the Indiana license plate by the end of January. The new set of off road rules and regulations in Arizona have kept it in the garage until I finish the paper work.

    I think the bike is geared low (slow) enough in first gear to haul me around. Remember we are talking a 196cc motor that generates maybe 14 horsepower. Folks have burned up these engines thinking they were highway cruisers.

    If I feel the need for speed, there are several bikes in my stable that can definitely get the wind blowing in my face.

    It does what it was designed to do. Be a good trainer and "just for the fun of it bike".

    YMMV
    #42
  3. neepuk

    neepuk Such a drag...

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    The kick-start models also have electric start. And the drum brakes aren't THAT bad if you keep the bike at speeds it was designed for. These bike are a blast though. Good luck finding yours.

    I just finish with a semi major service on my DR and it was kinda fun... I think I'm gonna tear my Black T-dub down and give it a good going-through. It's got over 11,000 miles and I really doubt that the privious owner took very good care of it. I know it needs steering tube bearings (on order) so I'll start in the back end... Pull the swing arm, lube needle bearings, shock rebuild (or replace), etc... I may even modify the air-box and see if I can't get this thing running a little stronger with a slightly bigger main jet.

    Who's running what jetting? Is there a common mod for the stock exhaust? I don't want to make my bike loud at all.
    #43
  4. Surfn54

    Surfn54 Adventurer

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    Good question Neepuk! Lets give this a Bump!
    #44
  5. HenryJ

    HenryJ S-10CREWCAB.COM

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    I have done quite a bit of research and the best I can tell is that each will need to do their own testing as different conditions will require different modifications. The consensus has been that the TW is lean from the factory. More damage is usually done lean , rather than rich. I would rather err to the rich side to sacrifice a little mileage and performance.

    There are likely to be benefits in pilot screw adjustment , needle shims, drilling the air passage and re-jetting. Anything done to help them breathe will require enriching the fuel mixture.

    No one seems to nail down the shims needed, but from what I see .030" to .050" may help mid-range performance. Drilling the air passage 3/32" to 7/32" offers better throttle response. Available jets #126 , #128 or #132 used to get the correct mixture for wide open throttle. Most US bikes with the late model carb got the #126 jet. CA models get the #128 and the rest of the world were equipped with #132. Once jetting is determined the pilot screw should be adjusted between 2-3 turns out for correct idle mixture.

    The list of parts gathered for my 2006 model TW200:
    Shims from as little as .026" to as much as .078".
    Two jet sizes bigger (#128 and #132) for the US bikes with the #126 main.
    3/32" drill bit

    These are easy to find low dollar parts that can be purchased for under $20. Washers from the hardware store and jets from the boat shop. Easy to carry if needed. Swap if you travel from 10k feet to sea level.

    What modifications did I make?
    I drilled the air hole to 3/32". That was just a slight increase in size for better throttle response.
    I added .046 steel washer shims under the needle for the mid range. It took two to make that thickness. The 3mm holes are slightly too large. The standard # hole sizes fit better.
    Stock mine has the #126 main jet. I installed the #128. I am at 2200 ft and the air here can get pretty bad. Mile high adjusted altitude is not unusual. I have the #132 if I need to go richer.

    How well does it all work?
    No road test yet. It fires up good and the no load throttle seems to be better. It does not seem to stumble as bad cold as it did before.
    #45
  6. Reposado1800

    Reposado1800 Juicy J fan!

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    I was watching the TW200 forum a while back and noticed one of the guys building an oil cooler adapter. I bought one and put it on my XT225. It works wonderfully. If that guy ever runs another batch I highly recommmend the mod.
    [​IMG]
    #46
  7. neepuk

    neepuk Such a drag...

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    NICE! I'd be on that like a cheap date. Keep us posted. When we were riding in the dunes I thought my bike was just gonna melt down in the heat. The valves and/or cam chain were making a lot of tapping and clacking noises but she pulled through as always. Pretty hard to break these bikes but an oil cooler would be nice insurance.
    #47
  8. Reposado1800

    Reposado1800 Juicy J fan!

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    You're exactly right. You can hear the heat building up. You should hear my XL600 with no oil cooler. I shut it down in traffic jams and push. It sure sucks when that happens.
    #48
  9. Surfn54

    Surfn54 Adventurer

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    I had one on my Honda Mini and its was huge in the improved cooling. We need a hand on "How to do it" that is "Do it right!
    In addition to the oil cooler, what kind of hoses would work best?

    Please don't say that it can done with 2 straws from Mcdonalds....Its less expensive to buy good parts and do it right!....IN THE LONG RUN!

    Grateful for the great replys so far!

    sURF
    #49
  10. teeedubya

    teeedubya Been here awhile

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    Super fun on the beach :D :

    [​IMG]
    #50
  11. tpar1220

    tpar1220 such a pud..

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    i like the oil cooler idea as well, when i took tw into pisgah natl forest...some of the trails were in pretty rough shape, some were just blocked with downed trees.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    it was hot in there with very little air moving. running the tw around downed trees, thru the woods and weeds and mud...i heard the engine ping quite a few times...it was runnin hot, and could have put an oil cooler to good use..

    i am definetely interested in an oil cooler..
    #51
  12. kodiakfrank

    kodiakfrank Gloria's Cheerleader

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    I'm not clear on why you say the tire needs to run backwards. The direction of rotation is the same for the front and rear wheels.

    Can you please clearify your statement/reasoning for me?:ear
    #52
  13. LowOnFuel

    LowOnFuel In the crapper

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    Hey Pete, thanks for the info, I would like to know where you found the 58 tooth rear sprocket for the tw200, wife might like one on her T-Dub?

    Thanks,
    Steve
    #53
  14. Paradox Pete

    Paradox Pete Adventurer

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    Sprocket Specialties (Specialists?) is where I got my aluminum 58 tooth.

    Paradox Pete
    #54
  15. Paradox Pete

    Paradox Pete Adventurer

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    Frank,
    A few tires have an arrow or similar caution that they are "directional" (like chevron tractor tires) and will load up/not "clean out" if turned back wards.
    Because your front wheel is NOT "driven", except by the ground pushing against it, you need to figure the road surface is "driving" it instead of a drive chain.
    So, if you wind-up with a good gnarly tread tire on the front that was made to be used on the rear wheel, if it says "directional", it may work better/be more tended to "clean out" rather than pack mud into itself, if it is run "backwards" to the indicated direction of rotation.

    Most tires are not directional, so I have caused some confusion probably for nothing....(Mea culpa:1drink)

    Some of the auotmotive winter tires like Frank COlver used on the rear of his three wheeled T-Dub ARE directional, and that mebbe put the thought into my warped mind.

    Paradox Pete
    #55
  16. neepuk

    neepuk Such a drag...

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    Also... Your rear wheel is the driving force of the bike... your front wheel often times carries most of the braking force of the bike. It will get better traction under heavy braking because of the reverse directional mount...
    #56
  17. Paradox Pete

    Paradox Pete Adventurer

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    Please give contact info. for the builder of the "life support" system for T-Dubs.

    Even geared-down (58 tooth from 50 rear sprocket), so mine isn't lugging hard climbing over rocks and up steep hills, mine gets as hot as a forge:cry.
    Since oil capacity for stock motor is only ONE measly quart:eek1, greater oil capacity plus cooling has GOT to be a help keeping temperatures down to where the little mill will last longer and run better under extreme conditions.
    My T-Dub will be dragging a light hack, and Frank COlver's two T-Dubs have been converted into 2 steerable wh. fwd. one wh. in rear trikes, and both his and my rigs are run at low speed where you don't have the benefit of alot of airflow over the engine, as well as pulling a heavy load.
    This is SO ''needed" an accessory!

    Paradox Pete
    #57
  18. Paradox Pete

    Paradox Pete Adventurer

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    Been trying to get a larger capacity tank.
    justgastanks.com, Clarke, IMS, and Acerbis do not make tanks for T-Dubs despite the little Yamaha being in production nearly 1/4 of a century.:cry

    I have a couple more inquiries out that I haven't heard back from yet, but it looks like I'll have to take a 3.3 gallon Mustang style chopper tank from Steel THunder Custom Cycles and try to make it work for me if I want a larger tank bad enough...
    I'me already going to try a leather Velocipede solo saddle with coil springs under each rear corner from them...(Alot like the old Bates solo saddles like I had on my 1937 ULH 35 years ago.)
    I'me going to "lose" all the blue plastic that I can, too.
    With the new fenders already on the bike, this shoudl make it look "retro", and for sure be more waht bikes used to look like before I got old and cranky.:D

    Paradox Pete
    #58
  19. neepuk

    neepuk Such a drag...

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    #59
  20. Paradox Pete

    Paradox Pete Adventurer

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    Just received my Dunlop tire and took it by a "good neighbor" who is still into bikes despite being older than I am, and who used to race quite a bit...

    "I approve of the well-buttressed knobs. They won't squirm like siped ones or ones that aren't supported as well....Also, they'll provide a solid anchor for your screw-in ice studs from KoldKutter."

    Even tho it is DOT approved for the street, this is a pretty gnarly knobby, designed for the rear wheel but being run on the front of my T-Dub as soon as I can get it mounted.:D

    Paradox Pete
    #60