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Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by indr, Jul 2, 2013.
From the info you gave, yes, or no, or both.
How about a year, make and model to give us a clue what you are looking to figure out?
Not with my IR thermometer. Hi spec isn't high enough to take temps of headers, will just decalibrate it and then would have to wait 1/2 hr until it recalibrates and is useable again.
Expensive them IR thermometers that will read really high temps such as headers temps.
You need some kind of vacuum balancer, there are a few out there. Not lending my old mercury filled for safety concerns.
Exhaust temps may work. Could be slow, takes a while for the pipes to show temperature changes. In any case and I looked it up recently 7-800F seems average but they can go much higher than that.I doubt you can fine tune anything that way but could be good enough all things considered.
I think you need expert help. I heard good from these guys:
Harmonizer - see vendors.
Like hens teeth, but make this trivially easy.
Side note.......IR temp readings from a shiny surface are not accurate.
The rest questions have been answered, some sort of vacuum gauges is the preferred method for carb sync.
First I've ever heard of doing it that way :huh
Just get a vacuum balancer. Morgan Carbtunes are the best, IMHO.
Don't bother trying to make your own -- all that stuff on the Ninja 250 forums about homemade systems is a waste of time and materials -- they never work well enough to get a decent result.
Taking the header temp would tell you much more about the mixture screw setting than the throttle body sync.
The IR temp gauge can be useful as a troubleshooting tool, especially on bikes with lots of cylinders. If one header is substantially different in temp, then you can focus on what is going on with that carb. I can't imagine it being accurate enough or informative enough to adjust anything.
I don't think the IR gun will help you much.
You can search DIY carb sync for instruction to make you own carb sync tool with some clear tubing and a yardstick. There is a "deluxe" version where you connect the two tubes to each other with a small aquarium air valve at the top. A cross-over for lack of a better description. You start with the valve open then slowly close it to increase the sensitivity. That is a nice feature especially when the carbs are way out.
I made my own manometer with four ports to sync an inline-4 after my expensive carb-sync tool failed. Mine was cheap, easy to make, and is quite effective. Lots of pics out there to give you ideas.