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Discussion in 'British Beasts: Triumph Tigers' started by Burren Rider, Jul 6, 2011.
Ha!! It does. Good one.
You guys paid too much for your bikes. I would agree, the cost of repairs is the biggest difference between off-roading an 800 XC vs KLR.
I did mine the other day. I'd like to hear from others about this subject. Like you, I waited until I had time to swap the OEM filter as well. The UNI instructions say to just pop out the old snorkel and pop in the new pre-filter. I don't see how that is possible. Getting the rubber inside the airbox and around the lip with the little bit of space allowed?
Has anyone added the UNI filter without removing the standard air filter? Just seems next to impossible, but maybe not..
Nope. Did the same thing. Seems to me someone said they could pop out the pre-filter with everything in place. Maybe now that I know how it fits in there I could do it, but I doubt it.
I took the opportunity to lube that stepper motor while everything was out. Then found out I didn't do it good enough.
I managed to get mine in without going to the airfilter, though it took me way longer than it should have. First I took out the air duct, thinking that was the snorkel, and couldn't figure out how the Uni filter was supposed to fit in there with the ABS module and all. Then I finally looked at a picture and realized my stupidity, after having removed the battery and whatnot. Once I figured out that I had more removal to do, it went a lot better. It was a little tricky getting the Uni filter installed just because there's not much finger room, but once I got the rear corner started in the hole in the airbox, the rest of it followed pretty easily. Definitely less of a hassle than getting to the air filter, but still not all that user friendly.
What the instructions didn't mention was to take out the cage that holds the stock seat in place (and covers the ABS) before pulling out the stock snorkel.
With the cage out, I inserted the three close sides of the Uni Filter. With those in place, I rotated the Uni in a counterclockwise motion in order to fit the last/far corner. When that popped into place, I rotated it clockwise into the correct position.
It took a bit of niggling to figure out, but it is done.
Good to hear. I was hoping this was going to prove to be an easily serviced item, but if it meant removing the oem filter that isnt so easy is it!
I believe the UNI is an easy to service item. Better to have to service that, than take the entire tank off to check your air filter.
The next time I need to check my air filter, I'm going to borrow one of the fiber optic cameras from the emergency airway/broncoscopy cart at work. I'll be able to look in there without removing anything except the UNI!!!
Firstly, you do have to remove the cross brace just in front of the battery box to get access to the snorkel.
I've probably posted these before but here goes again.
I had my pre-filter on for about 6000 miles and it looked like...
I did, however, find that the air filter was still pristine...
So once you've got the pre-filter in place you shouldn't have to worry about the stock filter for many, many miles. There was some dust at the bottom of the airbox but that had come up through the drain hole.
Now, whilst I had it all apart, I experimented with methods of removing the pre-filter. I found that if you push a blunt flat blade screwdriver mid way along the top of the rubber part and wriggle it so that it goes under the edge of the airbox, the rubber is flexible enough to push it right through. You can then hook the whole thing out.
I also found that a bit of LM grease around the rubber makes it easier to fit. And you can use that same blunt flat blade screwdriver to push the last (hardest) bit into its seated position.
Also, I realised that the reason for the pre-filter being so dirty was that it was getting sprayed with crap from the chain. If you look at this photo, you can see the chain through the gaps in the top left.
So, I fashioned a cover out of modeling PVC to shield the filter...
Great idea, I checked and found the same thing after servicing mine today.
Also mine crapped itself during the service. It's been having some dodgy starts and today as the throttle bodies were getting adjusted it stalled. When we went to restart it the instrument panels blinked and went kaput.
We checked all the fuses and the obvious stuff but couldn't find the cause. After a bit more investigation we found the culprit - a dodgy solenoid fuse located under the battery. The drain hole must have become blocked and water built up causing it to corrode. How so much water got in there I have no idea because I'm doubly careful when I'm washing it that water doesn't get up in there.
Mention of a 30A fuse in the service manual is only a foot note and to me easily overlooked so luckily it happened in the shop otherwise it could have left me stranded.
Look around the forums and find the relocation process for moving this up and out of the water tray. Worth it...
i'm sure that mod would even help those that do not do the pre-filter.
looking at the previous picture of those 2 stock side by side filters,
you can see the same black road grime. with that shield, i bet stock filters would stay alot cleaner.
I'll bet you're right. The grime suspended in the air must get sucked into the snorkel.
Craig, check out this thread http://www.tiger800.co.uk/index.php/topic,4035.msg63388.html#msg63388
Page 4 shows the state of my solenoid http://www.tiger800.co.uk/index.php/topic,4035.30.html
My photos http://s396.photobucket.com/user/bl...XC LV11UXM/MAIN FUSE RELOCATION?sort=3&page=1
Looking to buy a UNI Filter pre-filter in the UK. Does anyone know if/where they can be purchased. if not in the UK, where would be best/easiest to source one?
Australia. I was lucky as a friend was down there on holiday and was able to bring one back for me.
Made my shield from a 2L plastic milk container. Yours looks neater.
Fantastic, thanks for re-posting. I'll have to see if I can get it relocated while I'm in Tbilisi.
Remember we had a short chat about the bike cutting out? http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20430199&postcount=1625 & http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20436610&postcount=1626 and we figured it might have something to do with a short or the solenoid. Now the solenoid is clean again and rest of the bike is checked I thought that would be the end of it but it's done it twice on this trip now and concerning me.
The first time it happened is right at the end of this video after some pretty heavy clutch use - not exactly riding to Triumphs recommended specs but I would expect the bike to be up to the task. I gave it 10 minutes to cool and it fired back up as though nothing had happened.
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The second time it happened was in heavy traffic going uphill in Istanbul in hot weather. Bike stopped as though I'd stalled it and again I couldn't start it and had to let it sit until it cooled a bit. I wasn't crawling with the traffic and slipping the clutch, just normal use.
The third time was again going uphill in Turkey in hot weather and again not much clutch use, just normal operation.
As you know I have a fair bit of weight on the bike - riding two-up with enough spares and belongings for a 4 month trip. I've also dropped the front sprocket to a 15 tooth which should have helped the situation. Twice the radiator has made some gurgling noises as though it was overheating and I've replaced the fluid, blown compressed air into the fins of the radiator and checked the fan and it's all ok. It hasn't made gurgling noise since. Second time it made the gurgling noise was in this hill climb
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Any ideas what it could be? I think it must have something to do with the clutch getting too hot but I wouldn't expect this type of operation to be pushing the bike beyond it's limits.
what was temperature bar showing at that time?
The usual, about mid-way. As far as I can tell the sensor has been working. No other warning lights except the low oil pressure warning light that comes on when it stalls. The high coolant temperature indicator didn't come on when it made the gurgling sound either.
If it was the clutch slipping and stalling I should still be able to start it.