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Discussion in 'Trials' started by UtahGuido, Jun 24, 2013.
Looks like a $4000 machine, if it runs good. Last year I passed on a $4700 Scorpa 200 with an e-start. Couldn't justify the cost. My $900 (and counting) Reflex filles the bill on a budget.
Main problem with KN filters is that while they flow air very well, they flow dirt and debris just about as well (at least according to independent testing). Its very very easy to fit a small internal stub into the inlet hose of a TLR air-box, and fit a stub mount oiled foam type pod filter onto that. If at the same time you remove the intake silencer elements, and fit a $50 Taiwanese carb, the TLR will run a great deal better.
Large volume exhaust on the bike pictured is also a very good idea, and will mean increased torque and better top end power. Its very surprising that so few people have realised, that with a few simple modifications the TLR200 can be converted into a relatively competitive and fun to ride machine.
No worries. It wasn't directed at you.
Hey, that would be cool! Let me know!
Damn. I missed the fun. Just couldn't justify 2 back-to-back Trials weekends and Miss Bitters REALLY wants an Ironman this year, so Taos won.
That's my handlebar mount. I decided to put on some "real" trials handlebars, ditch the risers, and see how that worked out. So I ponied up for some expensive Renthals and got a Tusk 7/8-1 1/8 adapter kit from Rocky Mountain MC/ATC, and was screwing it all together yesterday. Realized I'd put the adapters on the wrong side (I think, they were a bit widely spaced for the bar mounting area) and in removing them 3 bolts came out and this one jammed. They all went in rather firmly but I chalked that up to the thread locker compound they were coated with. Didn't cross my mind that maybe I was cross threading something.
Anyway this sucker is in there. I intend to cut a slot in the top and see if I can unscrew it with a flat head screw driver backed up with some needle nose vise grips but suspect it's just going to rip out. More than likely I'll be drilling it. Oh the joy. I have a drill press and maybe I can take the top clamp off the bike and fixture it in the DP, get some cutting oil and have a go.
Would applying heat to the aluminum assist in the unscrewing attempt?
Speed and feeds for the possible dilling operation? Fast? Slow? Heavy pressure? Light?
Size of drill?
New alloy yoke from the TwinShock Shop in the UK with increased fork angle for only $500+ shipped?
You need to find someone with a MIG welder. Get them to put a blob of weld onto the broken bolt, and unscrew it with mole wrench as soon as the weld has cooled from red heat (this works 95% of times).
Altering the steering angle by modifying the frame will work much better than the $500 yokes, and should be an awful lot less money.
Well, that's an option. I had to look up "mole wrench". We call them vice grips over here.
Edit - A neighbor up the street is handy with welding. I'll check in with him.
Handlebars are pinch bolts, thread locker no, anti-seize yes. Might be some one I know lurking her that has a spare. Good luck, I`ve actually had a few like this with new bikes.
I'll tell that to the guys at RMMC/ATV, and bear it in mind in the future.
So I'm wondering if this would be a good time to get a welding set up and learn the art. I know this question has been asked a zillion time on this forum but here goes again: anyone have advice on buying a used home welding rig suitable for relocating footpegs and, yes, extracting jammed bolts? Don't worry, I'd practice first.
And yeah, if anyone has a top clamp of a TLR I may be interested, especially if I try my hand at welding!
I would just drill it and use easy out
Seriously, a shop recommended thread locker on handlebar clamps?
No, the bolts came that way, a little bit of blue on each one. But I'd never heard that before either. Makes sense though. From now on...
And as for shops in SLC, well, I don't go to any. And RMMC/ATV is just a big parts warehouse. But I went down there once for a KLR doohickey day and the guys I met were pretty nice, threadlocker on pinch bolts notwithstanding.
I've never had good luck with easy outs. But I may drill. We'll see how the welding option pans out.
Easyouts will fail in about 75-80% of cases, the weld method will work in 90%. If you are looking for a welding set up to use at home, look at a used name brand MIG set, with the highest amperage you can find for the money you have to spend.
Avoid buying new Chinese sets, as these are in most cases very poor, and will cost about the same as a used name brand set. Also steer clear of disposable gas cylinders, and look for smaller size industrial cylinders, and use Argon/CO2 5% mix, which will be perfect for all ferrous metals.
MIG welding is very easy to learn, and the main problems most new users have seem to be linked to improper machine set up, which can be easily overcome if you have a friend who is good with a MIG set, and can show you how to set up properly.
Talk to any good outboard motor mechanic about removing broken/seized
bolts. They use judicious amounts of heat and/or weld a nut to the broken
part. In either case, heat does the job.
Yeah, I think the weld way is the way to go. I tried drilling it out this afternoon and made a mess of it. Drilled off-center Lineaway. So anyway I have a slightly mis-aligned pinch clamp bolt, threading into both aluminum and steel. I think it will work.
Well, the clamps are on, mis-aligned mounting bolt and all. And lineaway, the bolt that stuck is one of the ones that mounts the lower part of the adapter to the existing handlebar mount - it's not a pinch bolt. So having thread locker on it was appropriate.
I'm going to ride it around today and see what I think of these lower, and real, trials bars. I suspect that I'm going to put my risers back on though. But we'll see.
The add on fat bar clamps are appropriate for very tall riders, but in almost all cases alteration to the steering angle, will make a lot more difference,
My forks clunk when I pump them up and down. It's sort a ka-clunk that I feel all the way up in the handlebars. Happens on compression and rebound. I pulled the springs out a few days ago and they looked okay, length was within spec and I changed the oil and put in fresh ATV. But they still clunk. Does/did anyone else's Reflex do this? Did you fix it? Are there any other fork improvement that anyone has done with these Reflex forks? And they are the 33 mm units, not the 35 mm forks that come on the other TLRs. The forks are fine for what I do (dink around) and I don't feel like I need to go the fork swap route. Besides, where does one come across used trials forks? But I would like to get all I can out of these stock forks. At least get rid of the clunk.