to hell with turkey, i want fish tacos!

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by gothamAlp, Nov 25, 2007.

  1. gothamAlp

    gothamAlp happy to be here

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2005
    Oddometer:
    805
    Location:
    flagstaff and/or tucson, az
    and a dip into the sea of cortez!
    and dirt roads!
    and the simple pleasures of a coupla days off the grid in mexico.

    so off i went.

    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136844166743028514"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/dwidmark/R0m8jbFBcyI/AAAAAAAACMI/0f7p38pkbzs/s800/sonora.jpg" /></a>

    i crossed a sonoyta, gateway to the gringo playground that is rocky point. and i ended up in puerto lobos, down at the bottom left of this picture, an off-the-grid fishing village about 4 hours south of the border.

    [fyi, the pink line, the 'new coastal highway' doesn't exist yet. when it does, it will change everything, and probably not for the better, especially in places like puerto lobos. also, the green 'new paved highway to tucson' from altar to sasabe, aka the smugglers route, doesn't exist yet either.]
    #1
  2. gothamAlp

    gothamAlp happy to be here

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2005
    Oddometer:
    805
    Location:
    flagstaff and/or tucson, az
    thanksgiving day began at a campground in why, az, about thirty miles north of the border.
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136840116588868082"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/dwidmark/R0m43rFBcfI/AAAAAAAACI8/u0p40_Qzxdg/s800/IMG_1799.JPG" /></a>

    i intended to turn off mex 8, the road to rocky point, and take a dirt road down to the coast, but i couldn't find the turn-off and ended up going all the way to penasco in order to gas up at a pemex. then i took the road skirting the bay from penasco to caborca. at a border control station in the middle of nowhere, i had a nice conversation with the agent, who asked if we had snow in flagstaff yet and who i in turn asked for a lunch recommendation in caborca.

    he sent me to the most excellent la carreta.
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136840013509652818"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4xrFBcVI/AAAAAAAACHo/mU4dwBVwt_A/s800/IMG_1876.JPG" /></a>

    the specialty of the house is carne asada. not the fish tacos i'd hoped for but damn good.
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136839850300895298"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4oLFBcEI/AAAAAAAACFY/_Yy6W8gPyrU/s800/IMG_1802.JPG" /></a>

    then i hit the road to puerto lobos. after about 20 miles, the pavement ends.:D
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136839790171353058"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4krFBb-I/AAAAAAAACEk/2whviUwdb8s/s800/IMG_1808.JPG" /></a>

    a little further it opens up to look like this...
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136839884660633730"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4qLFBcII/AAAAAAAACF4/f3MvdQoTi7w/s800/IMG_1809.JPG" /></a>

    fast & hard-packed sand, where i get my own little paris-dakar on, even catching a little air over the dirt moguls. but i was out in the middle of nowhere, and reminded myself to keep things on the safe side. there were rough stretches as well, and i soon heard something clanging on the bike somewhere. stopped and saw my license plate flapping in the wind. also lost my rear reflector.
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136840163833508402"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/dwidmark/R0m46bFBcjI/AAAAAAAACJc/4uo201TZUHY/s800/IMG_1811.JPG" /></a>

    this road went on for about 45 miles and took about an hour and a half.
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136840245437887170"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4_LFBcsI/AAAAAAAACKo/tZiMEc4ZZqc/s800/IMG_1812.JPG" /></a>

    i knew the sea was close when i came up on these hills...
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136839953380110578"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4uLFBcPI/AAAAAAAACG0/DZksKipYrEQ/s800/IMG_1815.JPG" /></a>

    and there it is.
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136839880365666418"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4p7FBcHI/AAAAAAAACFw/iWZuvp1Rr4M/s800/IMG_1820.JPG" /></a>

    when you live in the northern arizona mountains, you get to really missing the water.
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136839914725404850"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4r7FBcLI/AAAAAAAACGQ/sXfzxKvh7TQ/s800/IMG_1827.JPG" /></a>

    after checking out the little fishing village, i found a few palapas on the northern beach side...
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136840266912723682"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/dwidmark/R0m5AbFBcuI/AAAAAAAACK4/kGfovS6PLL8/s800/IMG_1830.JPG" /></a>

    as the day began to wane...
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136840043574423938"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4zbFBcYI/AAAAAAAACIA/EX_OUtnxLe8/s800/IMG_1834.JPG" /></a>

    i jumped into the water, which was very temperate, and sent up camp...
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136840065049260450"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/dwidmark/R0m40rFBcaI/AAAAAAAACIQ/mJAQ8SZZJfo/s800/IMG_1840.JPG" /></a>

    having found what i was hoping for.
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136840232552985266"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4-bFBcrI/AAAAAAAACKg/TEFo58KNTCY/s800/IMG_1842.JPG" /></a>
    #2
  3. Hayduke

    Hayduke ///SAFETY THIRD/// Super Moderator

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2004
    Oddometer:
    45,115
    Location:
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    looking good.... :lurk
    #3
  4. gothamAlp

    gothamAlp happy to be here

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2005
    Oddometer:
    805
    Location:
    flagstaff and/or tucson, az
    daybreak over puerto lobos.
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136840172423443010"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/dwidmark/R0m467FBckI/AAAAAAAACJk/aIJYi31VuCs/s800/IMG_1848.JPG" /></a>

    the only other campers on the beach where two couples who had driven down from southern arizona. they were set up in a few palapas further down the beach, and were very generous with their knowledge of the area, and their provisions.
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136839867480764514"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4pLFBcGI/AAAAAAAACFo/uS6nPzF5YLc/s800/IMG_1850.JPG" /></a>
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136839755811614642"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4irFBb7I/AAAAAAAACEM/UygFM2kndJo/s800/IMG_1855.JPG" /></a>
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136839983444881698"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4v7FBcSI/AAAAAAAACHM/rDYlnNF_VQ4/s800/IMG_1851.JPG" /></a>

    one couple, gary & roberta, had lived in flagstaff for many years so it turned out that we actually had a lot of acquaintances in common. they've been coming down to puerto lobos for years, and had seen dolphins the day before, and whales on previous occasions.

    they were very generous with me, sharing their beers around the campfire the previous evening, and coffee and omelettes for breakfast. puerto lobos has a dry goods store and tecate distributor, but that's it, and i'd arrived with only some water and a few power bars. i didn't want to glomm off newly made friends any more, so i decided to close up camp, jump in the water one more time and turn around.

    the tide was coming in, and there was some surf. i managed to get a little body-surfing in and then headed back to the beach. as i was walking in, something took a nice bite into my foot. i'd seen some large crabs at low tide the day before, and think it musta been on of them. man, that smarted.

    i've been toting around a first aid kit forever, and it finally got put to use.
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136839811646189570"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4l7FBcAI/AAAAAAAACE0/tjMiK0QZ8E8/s800/IMG_1856.JPG" /></a>

    then i hit the road back to caborca.

    here's a mexican cattleguard. careful where you step. and a reminder why you may not want to ride these roads at night.
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136840004919718210"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4xLFBcUI/AAAAAAAACHc/X0NyAuR32b8/s800/IMG_1858.JPG" /></a>

    i'd meant to take a photo of this sign on the way in...
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136840030689522034"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4yrFBcXI/AAAAAAAACH4/6dokI3ZGyn0/s800/IMG_1864.JPG" /></a>

    back in caborca, i asked for a place to have all the sand and salt washed off the bike. i was referred to seƱor vapor.
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136840189603312226"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/dwidmark/R0m477FBcmI/AAAAAAAACJ0/WlzGyWbCghE/s800/IMG_1866.JPG" /></a>
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136840284092592898"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/dwidmark/R0m5BbFBcwI/AAAAAAAACLI/WaGBzsdA4tg/s800/IMG_1867.JPG" /></a>
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136839777286451154"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4j7FBb9I/AAAAAAAACEc/IO-mL88ugGA/s800/IMG_1868.JPG" /></a>

    seems i wasn't the only one asking for their services...
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136839931905274066"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4s7FBcNI/AAAAAAAACGk/5A7jsPU7CAc/s800/IMG_1875.JPG" /></a>

    it was early afternoon and i was hungry. i asked one of the carwash guys for the best mariscos in town, and he asked around and then directed me to el terry.
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136839858890829906"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4orFBcFI/AAAAAAAACFg/pZH4brQ34YM/s800/IMG_1880.JPG" /></a>

    bingo!
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136839974854947090"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4vbFBcRI/AAAAAAAACHE/DBaR2HaGSPE/s800/IMG_1881.JPG" /></a>

    tasty fish tacos, check.
    happy dirt roads, check.
    a dip into the sea of cortez, check.

    time to turn around and head for home.
    #4
  5. Hi_Fi_Guy

    Hi_Fi_Guy Teutonic Terror

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2006
    Oddometer:
    650
    Location:
    Sunny, Phoenix, AZ
    Great ride report, thanks for sharing.
    #5
  6. gothamAlp

    gothamAlp happy to be here

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2005
    Oddometer:
    805
    Location:
    flagstaff and/or tucson, az
    leaving caborca, i saw that the circus had just pulled into town...
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136839841710960690"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4nrFBcDI/AAAAAAAACFQ/Q0yVpPOxZu4/s800/IMG_1892.JPG" /></a>

    i hate circuses.
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136839992034816306"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4wbFBcTI/AAAAAAAACHU/7uH0-V_t9nM/s800/IMG_1888.JPG" /></a>

    this one was called barley -- a contraction of barnum & bailey?
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136839893250568338"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4qrFBcJI/AAAAAAAACGA/5FFp36zC-Ks/s800/IMG_1887.JPG" /></a>

    ugh.

    then i hit the road to the border, through the beautiful high sonoran desert.
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136840086524096962"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/dwidmark/R0m417FBccI/AAAAAAAACIg/3qHrdq-K5FI/s800/IMG_1895.JPG" /></a>

    quick crossing at sonoyta and into organ pipe.
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136840103703966178"><img src="http://lh6.google.com/dwidmark/R0m427FBceI/AAAAAAAACIw/BRCehrcNwas/s800/IMG_1901.JPG" /></a>

    this is exactly where i took that first picture against the rising sun heading south...
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136840198193246834"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/dwidmark/R0m48bFBcnI/AAAAAAAACJ8/f-7kkwQEkQI/s800/IMG_1902.JPG" /></a>

    as to the west, the sun set over mexico -- a country, a place, a state of mind i've grown to love.
    <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/dwidmark/Graciasgiving2007/photo#5136839768696516546"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/dwidmark/R0m4jbFBb8I/AAAAAAAACEU/LgK3vGs29p4/s800/IMG_1904.JPG" /></a>
    #6
  7. GB

    GB . Administrator

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2002
    Oddometer:
    61,694
    it sure looks like a great thanksgiving ride!! tacos it is :thumb thanks for posting!
    #7
  8. JMead11

    JMead11 Crazy Bastard

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2005
    Oddometer:
    2,756
    Location:
    Tucson, Arizona
    Suddenly that turkey doesn't seem as though it was that good....thanks for the report, I'll have to check some of those places out.
    #8
  9. Groomez

    Groomez Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2006
    Oddometer:
    528
    Location:
    Greenville, SC
    I freaking love fish tacos... next year I'll be sure to supplement the turkey for an aquatic feast instead. Great post thanks!:thumb
    #9
  10. emmettken

    emmettken Long timer

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    Oddometer:
    1,903
    Location:
    southwest idaho
    Yea great!! Mmmmmmmm fish tacos.
    #10
  11. Hakatan

    Hakatan quality > quantity

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,041
    Location:
    Perusing my Colorado Benchmark...
    That deserted beach looks like a wonderful antidote to the stuff-yer-face dinners going on north of the border...nicely done. :clap

    If I read your report correctly, you only spent one night down south (?) -- what was the round-trip mileage from AZ?
    #11
  12. Nitzo

    Nitzo Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,960
    Location:
    Daytona
    Nice report, thanks.


    I also hate circuses. And zoos (animal prisons).
    #12
  13. Rogue Scout

    Rogue Scout Instigator Deluxe

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,316
    Location:
    Its a dry swamp.
    So, brave pioneer of all points South. Let me know when you're ready to go again.

    I'll be yer Huckleberry.
    #13
  14. thegraydog

    thegraydog 2 wheels X 6 ways

    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2004
    Oddometer:
    746
    Location:
    the Coconino
    Kid Gotham rides again. Beautiful photography, man.

    You didn't mention freezing your digits off getting off the mountain and back up it again?
    #14
  15. Uglyprimate

    Uglyprimate UglyPirate

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2006
    Oddometer:
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    Fort Whine Indiana
    Man this sucks, 20 years ago I lived in Flagstaff and never rode south of Sedona.

    You've made me hate the midwest even more than I did yesterday.
    #15
  16. pistol777

    pistol777 Freedom Seeker

    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2006
    Oddometer:
    323
    Location:
    The Great Northwest
    You got me drooling . I need a Mexico fix. Beautiful Pics and trip.
    #16
  17. gothamAlp

    gothamAlp happy to be here

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2005
    Oddometer:
    805
    Location:
    flagstaff and/or tucson, az
    total mileage was 1068. left weds at noon, returned saturday at noon. first night at the campsite in why. second night on the beach. friday night at casa rogue scout in anthem.
    #17
  18. gothamAlp

    gothamAlp happy to be here

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2005
    Oddometer:
    805
    Location:
    flagstaff and/or tucson, az
    the ride down weds afternoon was fine. heated vest and winter gloves did the trick.

    the ride up, saturday late morning was BRUTAL. more because of the wind than the cold. i normally hit reserve at 150 miles on the TA. coming up the hill into the wind that morning i hit it at 120, by far the lowest mileage i've ever gotten. and the gusts were just nasty; i was glad to get home.

    then i went to FAC and sat in the jacuzzi for 45 minutes to get the feeling back in my fingers and toes.
    #18
  19. beechum1

    beechum1 Dandole Gas al Burro

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2007
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    9,603
    Location:
    Not home in Tijuana
    enviable. very nice!:clap
    #19
  20. FlagRS

    FlagRS Gone to the Dogs

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2004
    Oddometer:
    1,309
    Location:
    N. AZ
    Nice Report, looks like you had a great ride and had some good Thanksgiving grub. Too bad you got crabs while you were there. And I can't believe you rode up the hill on Saturday, man that wind was bad.

    FlagRS :clap
    #20