Greetings Oilheads! I've just finished installing a new updated left top cam chain tensioner and tensioner blade (end broken off, almost all pieces recovered from sump) for a friend. Pulling the subframe & airbox and routing the hoses, cables & electrical during reinstall was (almost!) a bigger job than removing the gearbox/final drive and clutch/flywheel to drift the tensioner blades' pivot shaft out. The pivot shaft e-clips and washers were not as tricky as I first thought; it was a matter of taking my time to study the situation and arrive at the right process and the tools and tricks I'd need to do it without dropping anything into the engine cases. Now that I've come up with an actual procedure (YouTube videos are more proof of concept than instructional) I'm ready to do this for anyone in need! The owner decided to go with new ring sets (115,000 miles, no serious oil consumption or odor when running) as the top ends had to come off to provide access to the pivot shaft- who wants to split cases when it can be avoided? The factory cylinder crosshatching is clearly visible and two of the pushrods had ends that were loose enough to rotate when inspected- not bad at all. I am installing the top ends but not installing the cam sprockets/chains until I'm sure that my left cylinder "0T" mark is at ignition TDC and not overlap TDC. I still have the front timing (engine) cover on (I didn't order a replacement gasket, my mistake I reckon) and am hoping to get it right the first time without being able to see the ignition marks on the front timing sprockets. Is there another way to confirm ignition vs cam timing while still having the front engine cover in place?