torque wrench for KTM 990

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by OlivierS, Feb 15, 2013.

  1. OlivierS

    OlivierS Adventurer

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    I don't know if this is the right place for this thread, but i figure here is the most KTM knowledge...

    So, I'm looking to buy a Torque wrench ( thank you google translate... ), I will only use it for the Adventure. I found a cheap one for 4 to 24 NM, is this enough for doing some basic work? I'm not planning to take the block out just yet but, like I said, basic work. I have a history of breaking screws and thread, so I wanna do it right this time...
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  2. Orangecicle

    Orangecicle On a "Quest"

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    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=20485745

    I bought a CDI 10-60Nm torque wrench. CDI makes torque wrenches for Snap-on. Very high quality. That should do most things on the bike other than the rear axle that requires 90Nm. As some people mentioned in the thread I've linked to, using a torque wrench at the extremes of its range is probably not the best plan. Therefore, a better plan may be to buy a low-range torque wrench and then a higher range torque wrench for the bolts that need the greater torque.

    I would suggest that you get a torque wrench with a ratching head. It is very difficult to torque things like spark plugs and head bolts without a ratcheting head on a torque wrench when they are in the middle of a trellis frame. :deal Been there. Had that problem. :evil
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  3. l0st

    l0st Adventurer

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    #3
  4. pdxmotorhead

    pdxmotorhead Been here awhile

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    Just make sure your always in the middle 60% of the wrenches range.
    MOst all torque wrenches are most consistent in this range.

    If you drop it,, you likely need to re-calibrate it (Click type) I used to work where we had a cal shop and
    all the site torque wrenches got checked weekly or when dropped, funny hting,, we used snap on tools exclusively EXCEPT for torque wrenches, turned out Craftsman held their numbers better. :)

    Dave
    #4
  5. Blackbert

    Blackbert Factory Rambler

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    Have a look in the owners manual, it lists all the torque specs for chassis and engine. for the smaller bolts and nuts, the numbers are low, all manageable with a 5-25Nm wrench. Besides that, I use a bigger one up to 100 something Nm for the taller nuts and bolts. Mine are Tengtools, somewhere in the mid price range.
    #5
  6. OlivierS

    OlivierS Adventurer

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    Well, see, that is a bit of a problem, since I don't have a owners manual :D
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  7. Orangecicle

    Orangecicle On a "Quest"

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    http://www.ktm950.info/how/owners_manuals/owners_manuals.html Here are the owner's manuals. But, I think you are wanting the maintenance manual for your bike. Those are not available free online. You have to buy the CD.
    #7
  8. Katoom72

    Katoom72 Been here awhile

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  9. OlivierS

    OlivierS Adventurer

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    thx guys the manual problem is fixed. who would have thought the internet would come in handy some day.
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  10. brents347

    brents347 Trusting my Cape...

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    FWIW,

    I don't use a torque wrench on my bike, and don't see it as a necessity. Of course I use one for things like head bolts, clutch basket, etc., but when I see guys that use them for clutch cover bolts and front axle pinch bolts I always kinda wonder.

    My torque wrench is my hand and the way I hold the tool in question. And lots of experience with stripped bolts I guess. :lol3
    #10
  11. RedRupert

    RedRupert Brit in the Soviet Union

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    Torque is not just a question of feel. For example, the tripple clamps: the bottom pinch bolts need to be 15 Nm; the top ones need to be 20 Nm. All are M8. In this case a torque wrench is important.
    #11
  12. brents347

    brents347 Trusting my Cape...

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    Have you ever seen a clamp bolt come out? Or seen one so overtightened as to impede fork action? I haven't. Torque them both at 15, torque them both at 20, I don't think you or the bike can tell the difference. In 30 years, on everything I have owned, I have never torqued a fork clamp bolt and I have never had a problem of any kind. I honestly fail to see the need for concern.
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  13. RedRupert

    RedRupert Brit in the Soviet Union

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    It may be that not everyone is as experienced as you.

    It's surprising how much damage, due to poor workmanship, can be found on used bikes. For this reason, it's a good idea to go by the book - i.e. by going by the book, there is less chance error.
    #13
  14. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    Realms of possibilities. Experience is the factor, learning torque’s by hand are incredibly precise, but leaning that feel using a torque wrench is cheaper, yet decreasing the learning curve on how to fix mistakes. I remember as a kid the lesson of a spark plug thread tapped direct to an ally head.

    Precision engineering may ask 1Nm difference, difficult to feel by hand.

    To OP, Halfords stock a professional range made by Norbar, the 3/8 covers 8-60Nm.
    #14
  15. beergut

    beergut Thumper

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    I will add to the fire...

    10ft lb is 13.5nm. Is 7nm enough to sway someone to pay ~$60 more for a torque wrench that goes to 10nm.

    The sears 3/8 clicker is $40 that will do 10ftlb/13.5nm. The digital that will do 5ft lb/6.7nm is $108
    #15
  16. pdxmotorhead

    pdxmotorhead Been here awhile

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    The cal lab I was talking about had a box that was set up with ratchet, the box could measure torque. They had a standing deal,, if they called a torque value and you hit it within a range they would buy you lunch, if you missed you bought them lunch. They very seldom paid out.. This was a place with some really well trained mechanical people.

    I use a torque wrench because it only takes 1 screw-up to buy it... :D

    Dave
    #16
  17. Pistolero

    Pistolero W. F. O.

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    I also have Tengtools wrenches and I'm happy with them, especially for the price.
    #17