Toyota 22re Broken rocker arm and now head bolt

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by mouthfulloflake, Nov 6, 2013.

  1. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

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    1989 4runner

    son said it made a bad noise and was low on power, he limped it home.

    removed plugs 1-3 look perfect, plug #4 is sooty

    compression test 155 in all 4 holes.

    remove valve cover, see Ex valve rocker arm for cyl #4 is broken, cam looks fine.

    in an attempt to remove the Rocker arm assembly one of the head bolts snapped just below the surface of the rocker arm support tower.

    now I cant remove the rocker, cant remove the cylinder head..

    wtf? any ideas?

    the rusty hole is the broken head bolt, its soaking in PB blaster although I think that to be a futile attempt.
    and yes I know its sludged up, I will put it back together with a much hotter thermostat.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #1
  2. 30Bones

    30Bones Long timer

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    My hack mentality would say to try an air hammer on the broken stud to free up the bond between the dissimilar metals. Also I have read that 1/2 and 1/2 acetone and ATF is a great penetrating oil

    Are your plans to just get it back on the road cheap as possible or do you want to to a complete top end, cam, timing chain (use metal guides), water pump, etc. (better while it's off)

    http://www.engnbldr.com/ is a great guy and will talk your ear off. I used his YEARS ago on my 22RE rebuild for my rockcrawler.
    #2
  3. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

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    I put the enginebuilder timing set with metal guide and cover in about.... 5 years ago.

    Id like to get back running as quickly and cheaply as possible ( it is my 16 year old sons daily driver now)

    I am wondering now WHY did the rocker arm break, so I probably need to remove the head and see.

    my initial plan was to simply remove the rocker arm assembly, and replace the one rocker arm before the head bolt snapped.

    an air hammer might help.
    #3
  4. 30Bones

    30Bones Long timer

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    I think it needs a good cleaning anyway :lol3
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  5. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

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    My method of cleaning is to block the radiator with a pizza box and drive it around town in low range for a while then change the oil.

    I need to put a much hotter thermostat in there apparently.

    :D
    #5
  6. 30Bones

    30Bones Long timer

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    Run some ATF in with the oil, the detergent will break that crud free, but likely clog a passageway
    #6
  7. k1w1t1m

    k1w1t1m Kiwi

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    Some heat on that stanchion might help.
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  8. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

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    I was afraid it would catch on fire, with all of that oil sludge, but you are right Tim, I will clean it up and heat it and see if that helps any.

    thanks for the input
    #8
  9. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer

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    so why can't you remove the rocker assby? whats holding it (hard to see through the goo). once the bolts are off the whole works should just lift away right?

    anyway, I would get the rocker shafts off whatever it takes, including a cut off wheel if needed (replacement parts are cheap). then weld a nut to the stub with the MIG. you find a nut that lets see the stub through the hole. start welding from the stub to the nut, then hit it with the impact before it cools too much.
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  10. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

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    Hey Beezer,

    down in that rusty hole, about .375" down in there is where the bolt broke, and its stuck/rusted/corroded to that support tower of the rocker assembly.

    i can lift the front two corners of the rocker assembly, but not the rearward portion because of that corroded bolt.

    so your idea is to sacrifice the rocker assembly ( about $200 aftermarket) to try and get to the bolt without removing the cylinder head.

    which MIGHT work
    but that thing wasnt budging with a 1/2 drive ratcher and a cheater handle ( when it snapped)
    I cant imagine being able to weld anything on it, or any type of vice grip that could put MORE rotational force on it?

    but if its only corroded in the rocker support, then maybe the bottom half would spin.. but I am guessing it goes through a water passage in the head, and thats where the corrosion stems from.
    #10
  11. 30Bones

    30Bones Long timer

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    My guess is rust between the dissimilar metals over XX years of sitting in what looks like a poorly maintained old engine (no jabs below the belt meant) :wink:

    soak it, heat it, soak it some more, heat it some more. Eventually it will break free. The hard part is getting leverage since you are banking on that rocker assembly breaking free by twisting it side to side. No easy task and I do not envy you. I would start searching for a used complete head to rape parts off of
    #11
  12. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

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    ok crazy idea..

    what if I take a cutoff wheel.

    cut that rocker arm free, ground enough of it off to get to the broken stud.
    remove rocker assembly ( replace with used)

    put the damn thing back together, with 9 of the 10 head bolts?

    ive read many accounts of this exact same thing happening, that #8 bolt thru the water jacket, gets corroded all the way down to the block.

    people use cherry pickers to try and get the head off, the water jacket is in the head, so the entire length of that bolt is likely siezed to the head.

    ok..

    obviously not the best idea, worst case is, it puts some coolant in the oil ?
    then I know I have to tackle removing the head.

    but I mean if its siezed that good now? maybe it will remain sealed for a while?

    what do i have to loose at this point?
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  13. 30Bones

    30Bones Long timer

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    I say go for it and report back. It's been a long time ago, but I recall my head bolts being a PITA and crusty as well.

    Cut a slit in the rocker arm vertically and leave that head bolt alone. If this works drive the truck into the ground :lol3
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  14. 30Bones

    30Bones Long timer

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  15. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

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    Thanks 30Bones!

    I think ive sourced a complete head locally for $50

    Plan is to use this part of it, after i cut mine for removal.

    [​IMG]
    #15
  16. Warin

    Warin Retired

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    If you can get a complete motor cheap - buy it.

    I'd run deseil oil to clean up, has more detergent than standard engine oil. Change it after say 1,000 km. And I'd be changing out the coolant, twice in the same way.
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  17. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

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    yeah im on the look out for an engine, but thats not gonna happen until spring ( I dont have time to swap it right now)

    this is why if I could band aide it for a few months , that would be OK with me.

    yeah Ill change the oil and coolant, I recall replacing the thermostat and I think they didnt have a 190, they sold me a 160 or 170, I forgot to replace it I guess, so its not running hot enough to keep the oil clean.
    #17
  18. Yamarocket630

    Yamarocket630 Honey Badger

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    Running a hotter thermostat isn't going to clean up or prevent sludge. Changing the oil more often will. Best advice is dont try to loosen the sludge or run any "cleaners" in the fresh oil. Change the oil regularly and it will slowly dissolve. Try to clean it all up at once and it will just break loose and wash down into the pump strainer.
    #18
  19. RCCADD

    RCCADD KLR Mechanic

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    I don't know if this will help, but I would try an air hammer with a bit small enough to get in the hole. If you don't have a bit that smll make one. I have also had luck burning broken bolt pieces out with a plasma cutter. I just shot the stream into the hole in short blasts. the bolt piece melted and blew out. I cleaned up the threads and replace with a new bolt.
    #19
  20. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer

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    I've really good success with welding a nut to a broken stud. the weire feed gets into some pretty small spots. the heat of welding helps break things loose. if that won't take it off.... leave it & hope for the best?
    #20