Trailer sound damping

Discussion in 'Shiny Things' started by vwboomer, Apr 18, 2012.

  1. vwboomer

    vwboomer Buffoon

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    I'm looking to quiet down my 6x14 to make sleeping tolerable in the rain. it's a thin roof that flexes with even a little wind.

    I plan to add 1" foamular, but under that should I add some mass directly to the alum skin? Would the Ice and Water Shield from Home Depot get stinky when hot? Back in my car audio days, I know people were running something similar on body panels to add mass and dampen vibration
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  2. Manuel Garcia O'Kely

    Manuel Garcia O'Kely Back at last

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    I suspect your best idea would be to use a spray on foam product - something that dampens the flexing when hit/wind, etc. BUT, I've never tried this - perhaps a panel 2" down, spray foam into intersticial spaces to give rigidity and insulation?
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  3. papalobster

    papalobster With Gusto!

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    I used some roof repair crap on the inside of my aluminum boat years back. Not durable enough to walk on, but it really quieted it down. I think picked it up at Menards.
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  4. dlearl476

    dlearl476 Two-bit Throttle Bum

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    IMO, just about anything that will "work" will also give off toxic fumes when heated. Then again, will you really be sleeping in it when the sun is shining on it?

    Are there ribs across the top that you could mount something to? If so, I'd recommend a layer of high density foam between a malamine coated masonite panel and the roof, whatever thickness would fit. If you really wanted to go whole hog, you could put a sheet of Dynamat against the roof, over the HDF, over the panel.

    If there's nothing to mount to, I'd restate my original claim, there isn't an adhesive out there that won't give of bad fumes when heated in the sun. Not one that will actually hold the stuff to the ceiling, anyway. Another option might be painting the top with the rubberized RV roof coating. It would dampen the sound of rain a bit. (For that matter, rubberized truck bed coating might too, but that might be much more expensive than the RV product.)
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  5. vwboomer

    vwboomer Buffoon

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    rubber roofing type stuff?


    I suppose if I'm sleeping in it, and the sun is shining on it I already have a toxic system :evil
    There are ribs, under those ribs is 5'11" and I dont' want to go down any lower. so 1" is my max thickness. I'm going to compare density of Foamular vs perhaps the foil faced siding type stuff.
    I thought a headliner adhesive might work well, or silicone.
    Some testing with a sprinkler will probably be in order.
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  6. papalobster

    papalobster With Gusto!

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    Yes, but it was latex based and not petroleum based so no toxic fumes.

    RV dealerships also have a white/silver elastomeric coating for outside roofs of campers. Perhaps you could paint the top outside with that and not worry about fumes? Here ya go!
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  7. vwboomer

    vwboomer Buffoon

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    outside mods would be a last resort. I think a heavy foam board and maybe an inside rubber layer would be enough. and ear plugs. and lots of booze.
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  8. Mambo Dave

    Mambo Dave Backyard Adventurer

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    I'm in the outside-coating mod camp. Thick enough and it should deaden it. A layer of something on top, with another layer of aluminum riveted over it would give a double-layer, but I don't think I've ever seen anyone create a double layer insulated roof on a trailer.
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  9. Ratski

    Ratski Been here awhile

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    What about Dynamat or the like, I know the car audio guys use that stuff. There are several companies that make something similar.
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  10. Hannda

    Hannda Short, fat, bearded, slow

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    :stupid

    Go to Geek's van build thread. He has a bunch of information about what he used to quiet down a Sprinter van.

    Edit: I'm in a giving mood. Here it is for you. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=715683
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  11. SimpleSimon

    SimpleSimon Aspiring advrider

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  12. Hannda

    Hannda Short, fat, bearded, slow

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  13. SimpleSimon

    SimpleSimon Aspiring advrider

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    I put it on the inside of a car's trunk like Dynamat to address squeeks, road noise, etc.
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  14. vwboomer

    vwboomer Buffoon

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    I will check that stuff out tomorrow. I was looking at similar products as well.
    turns out i have 1.25" to work with so adding some foamboard wont be a problem with a layer of stuff on top
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  15. josjor

    josjor Long timer

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    Yeppers.............this is what I would tackle it with. I've used it in similar situations and it works well. Maybe not quite as good as actual Dynamat, but pretty damned close. Just don't tell any of my customers: I actually sell Dynamat at my shop and I don't want them to know that they can get similar performance for a lot less.:evil:D
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  16. dlearl476

    dlearl476 Two-bit Throttle Bum

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    So, there you go. Adhesives are less of an issue if whatever is supported from the bottom. A layer of the poor man's Dynamat against the metal roof, plus whatever thickness of high density foam to make up the 1" (or foil-backed styro like you suggested), supported by a skin of the melamine-faced masonite tech-screwed into the supporting ribs.

    Not only is it deadened and insulated, it's a nicely finished ceiling. Plus, using three different densities of material will give you exponentially greater sound deadening properties.
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  17. vwboomer

    vwboomer Buffoon

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    yup a layer of rubber, and I picked up the higher R (6.5 I think) foil faced sheathing. I may also slide it down the walls, (I have the top plywood off for wiring) but at $13 a sheet for even Foamular, its gettin kind of spendy. might as well do it i spose
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  18. vwboomer

    vwboomer Buffoon

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    fwiw, I found a similar rubber product at Menards. Protectowrap. In addition to a kickass name, it is 10" wide vs 6" and also is a 25' roll for $15.
    after doing a few panels I am impressed!
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  19. SimpleSimon

    SimpleSimon Aspiring advrider

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    :clap
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