Trans Alp

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by justplainray, Feb 13, 2010.

  1. showkey

    showkey Long timer

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    Wausau
    Oh...yeah...
    <HR style="COLOR: #575757" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->but I have a wonderful wife, our policy is simple...

    Don't Ask...Don't Tell.

    justplainray

    Quote:
    <TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=4 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px inset; BORDER-LEFT: 1px inset; BORDER-TOP: 1px inset; BORDER-RIGHT: 1px inset" class=alt2>Originally Posted by wide
    Nice.... but its sure looking expensive!!:evil
    </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

    <!-- / message -->
    Glad someone is keeping the economy going:rofl :rofl

    Nice work:norton
    #41
  2. Archangel007

    Archangel007 Another Honda Rider!

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    Subsribed

    Obviously heavy-duty stainless steel spokes and nipples Ray???

    Looking very good there!

    Cheers,
    Tricky
    #42
  3. justplainray

    justplainray ucancallmeray

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    Yes, the spokes are heavier duty than the originals, I think these are 9 gauge, the originals were thinner.
    [​IMG]
    Note the brake rotor is bigger too. This an aftermarket rotor for a 650 Hawk GT (NT 650 '88 -'91) The caliper is original TA mounted on an adapter piece from MAP Engineering (thank you Jim Rowley, Colorado Springs, CO). Braided steel brake hose (e-bay). Tires Shinko SR244 (I like cheat tires).
    Here's the original set-up for comparion.
    [​IMG]

    Here's a shot of the frame and swingarm back from the sandblaster, with paint. It was too big for my blasting cabinet, so I had to send it out to Gary at American Dry Stripping, Milford, CT.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    All the paint was applied with a 3/8" wide camel hair artist brush using POR-15 paint products, Caliper Paint to be exact (http://www.por15.com/8oz-CALIPER-PAINT/productinfo/CPB/). The exhaust pipe paint is a POR-15 product also, Black Velvet (http://www.por15.com/High-Temperature-Paints/products/8/)

    More to come.
    justplainray
    #43
  4. justplainray

    justplainray ucancallmeray

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    ...we will learn how to design an auxiliary fuel tank.
    You no doudt have noticed the cardboard box between the rear frame rails, in this earlier photo.
    [​IMG]
    So here are the dirty details. That is a mock-up of this...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    This is a 3.25 gallon fuel tank, designed it in SolidWorks '09, it will be made of .100" Aluminum (5052 H32), the fill neck is a purchased component (RCI #7036B) from Summit Racing that required modifications, it hangs in between the rear frame rails on two steel straps. One the left side there will be a bracket to mount the Hondal CDI pack. The tank will completely eliminate the stock air box, battery tray and inner fender liner. (the tank is the fender liner) Heres a few more photos of the mock-up in position.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Here I'm checking the tire-tank clearance at full suspension travel. The shock is .800" longer than stock, I make a new clevis with the addition length built-in. Note the shock spring is removed and the tire is moved all the way forward for this check. Everything looks good.
    [​IMG]

    With the African Twin tank and this tank, fuel capacity is approximately 9 gallons (US). Air filter duties are being taken care of by the UNI air filter clamped onto the stock air plenum (red, visible is several photos).

    But...what about the battery?
    That is for another time.

    Stay tuned.
    justplainray
    #44
  5. BeeDub

    BeeDub Havagoowan

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    2,022
    Ray, I'm lovin' your hard work and creativity. I don't know what kind of riding you're really planning on doing with this thing, but I want to caution you abut those UNI pod filters. I had one on my Husky for a few months, and really only did one dirty ride in that time. After that, I wanted to do some jetting and what not, and when I pulled the carburetor apart, there was a healthy amount of dirt in it. I had read posts about them before, but didn't believe that just because the foam wasn't encapsulated by something, it would allow dirt to pass. I doubt the "air box" itself is the reason, but these things do not keep desert dust out of the carb. Just warning you.

    Keep up the good work! :thumb
    #45
  6. AC909

    AC909 Great Job!

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    There are a few companies out there, Moose Racing being one of them, that make "filter skins" for this sort of thing. Kind of a pre-filter that you wrap arround the foam filter. They usually will take care of most of the dust and what not. As exposed as that sucker looks I would give them a shot. BTW This is/is going to be an amazing bike keep up the good work!!
    #46
  7. justplainray

    justplainray ucancallmeray

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    going out to DeeDub and AC909 for the air filter notes.

    You should have seen the dirt inside the plenum due a bad connection at the box to plenum boot. I think I have a picture of that somewhere.

    thanks agian,
    justplainray
    #47
  8. justplainray

    justplainray ucancallmeray

    Joined:
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    the following posting may not be suitable for all viewers.
    VIEWER DISCRETION IS ADVISED.

    In our last installment we learned how to mock-up and install an auxilary fuel tank.
    In so doing, we eliminated the original air box, battery tray and CDI mounting bracket.
    The CDI pack will be remounted to a new bracket on the left side of the new tank.
    The air filter duties will be taken care of with a pod filter mounted on the end of the air plenum intake.

    But, what about the battery tray? What can be done to fill this need?

    Well, here is the original air box with intergal battery tray clamped-up in the bench vise.

    [​IMG]

    If I could just seperate the battery tray from the air box....but how?
    Ah....this ought to do it.

    [​IMG]

    Yeah, this is working.....just a little bit more....

    [​IMG]

    There....that didn't hurt....did it.

    [​IMG]

    Boy, it sure is dirty inside that air box and what are those spots??? Mildew? Alien Life Forms?

    [​IMG]

    And look at how well it fits. You would think that it was made for it.
    Bolt it to the original bottom mount, add a couple of loop straps to the top.
    Maybe throw a stiffener across the back....it don't get no better than this.

    [​IMG]

    Well, I'll work out the details later.....

    I sadden to report that one TransAlp air box assembly was permanently, irreversibly disfigured in the performance of this "stunt".
    Management would like to apologize to anyone whose sensitivities have been offended.
    And would further like to assure everyone that the guilty party(s) will not go unpunished.

    Stay tuned.
    justplainray
    #48
  9. 100mpg

    100mpg Self Imposed Exile

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    :lurk
    #49
  10. Archangel007

    Archangel007 Another Honda Rider!

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    Noooooooooooooooooooooooo!!!

    Ahh well, its all done in the name of R&D and scientific research.

    If the Japanese can get away with it with whaling, we should be able to get away with it for the betterment of motorcycling??

    Carry on Sir! :evil
    #50
  11. locorider

    locorider Loco, pero no estúpido!

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    I did some damage some time ago...from a pristine TA side panel and a battered AT side panel...

    [​IMG]

    Then...

    [​IMG]

    and finally...

    [​IMG]

    Once you go past the no-return step, its not that bad...but be sure what you are doing!!!!:evil
    #51
  12. 100mpg

    100mpg Self Imposed Exile

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    Very nice job Locorider!
    #52
  13. Archangel007

    Archangel007 Another Honda Rider!

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    Bloody nice in fact! :clap
    #53
  14. mas335

    mas335 xendurist

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    And I have a trashed airbox I would have traded you, how sad.
    #54
  15. justplainray

    justplainray ucancallmeray

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    the first cut that is the hardest.:wink:

    Nice work Loco....

    And yes we must forge ahead in the name of science.

    thanks to all that read my build thread, that makes it all worthwhile.

    stay tuned,
    justplainray
    #55
  16. Blackbert

    Blackbert Factory Rambler

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    Would it be a bad idea to replace the airfilter system with two K&N-style pods on top of the carbs? I know, a rejetting is necessery, but they would be up there, out of the dirt, out of the water. And give you some space down there to mount something else or get easier acces to the rear shock.
    #56
  17. Santa

    Santa Focused on the Future

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    1,406
    The pod filters will work fine.
    I have 5 k on my build and no problems even in the dustiest conditions.
    Drawbacks are:
    when cleaning the filters you must take care not to allow dirt to fall in the carb throat. Easy in the garage, not so easy in the field.

    Have your thumb on the kill switch in the deepest water crossings as once you are in deeper than the carb throats you are in big trouble.

    I'm using the pc racing filterskins and I find that they work really well.

    Overall the filters worked out better than I expected.

    Keep up the good work.

    Hello Bert!!!
    #57
  18. Blackbert

    Blackbert Factory Rambler

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    Hey Santa,

    Yes, I remembered you did use 2 pods. :wink:

    Any chance you can give us the numbers for the jetting changes you had to make (stock - new)? I'm thinking of going that way as well, I've been lucky with the OEM filter once and those would give about 20cm more "clearance" I think.
    #58
  19. locorider

    locorider Loco, pero no estúpido!

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    Now that you are on the building mood....and have planty of space to do it...you can modify your new fuel cel and make a snorkel that will go from the plenum, up between the seat and the tank ... AfricaTwin style...

    well...something like this...

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    #59
  20. justplainray

    justplainray ucancallmeray

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    that AT with the seat removed. You can see the air filter access in the side cover, so the snorkel must enter at the air box top forward surface. Oh course, I don't have an air box at all. (sorry, hate to bring up painfull memories)

    Hey, I started the engine yesterday. Of the three CDI modules I have, all three are sketchy. Wiggle the connectors and a cylinder will kick in and out. Wiggle them just right while using the correct combination of profanity and everything runs fine. Ran trans thru the gears, no unusal noises and it shifts fine.

    I have to put the fuel tank out for bids, the one shop I checked with wants way to much $$$ to do the welding. ($400) Hech, I already have the materials on hand.

    Bought a clutch and throttle cable on e-bay (extreme shop..) clutch cable is fine. The throttle cable is the return cable not the pull cable, and I don't see any other choose in their listings. The differemce is subtle, for now I'll jerry-rig it.

    stay tuned
    justplainray
    #60