Trip through Turkey, Iran, Stans, Russia, Mongolia

Discussion in 'Epic Rides' started by eustachius, Mar 31, 2013.

  1. Caymen8

    Caymen8 Been here awhile

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    I just got caught up with this report. What a great job! Thanks for sharing your experiences on what would be the trip of a lifetime for most of us. It looks like you had remarkably good weather for such a long trip.

    I'm looking forward to the remainder of the report. Thanks! :clap
  2. locorider

    locorider Loco, pero no estúpido!

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    Awsome!:clap

  3. locorider

    locorider Loco, pero no estúpido!

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    I bet is slower, but the pictures taken from afar gives a nice twist, a third view!

  4. blackcaps

    blackcaps Do it alone

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  5. ROD CURRIE

    ROD CURRIE Been here awhile

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  6. blackcaps

    blackcaps Do it alone

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    I wonder if she is a patato girl or in the strawberries?
  7. eustachius

    eustachius Adventurer

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    Chances are that when you meet Russian bikers they very often have the best material available, like those two bikers who were on a weekend outing to Lake Baikal.

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    It's mostly asphalt all the way with some long and very dusty stretches of road works. Here again, no fun in the rain.

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    Never any problem with gas and restaurants along the main road.

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    Family reunion in one of the restaurants, it was the Bon Voyage. The men wanted us to stay and celebrate with them. We had a very small drink and continued. We felt we had to keep moving.

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    Got off the main road and found a beautiful spot for our tents. The biggest pain with camping in Siberia are the moskitoes. Sometimes really, really bad.

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    That's the moment for a little schnaps and some philosophizing.

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    Typical vegetation along the way

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    and snackbar. They serve simple, but tasty food. Very often different kinds of soup which we got addicted to. Normally you order and pay food and drinks at the counter and sit down at a table. When your food is ready, they either call you or you are served.

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    Paul is enjoying his soup and some bread.

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    Had a chat with those farmers during one of our breaks in the afternoon. Their machinery looks outdated

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    but it works.

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    Some is even older. The contrast between modern urban Russia and the rural way of life is quite amazing.



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    There is one main road going from west to east, needless to say that you happen to meet overlanders on this route. They were going the opposite direction to South Corea, after a visit to Central and Southern Europe.

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    The farmers had already cut the grass so it was easy to find places for camp. Just make sure that you can't be seen from the main road. We always try to leave the road and go into the forests unnoticed by anyone.

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    Better than many hotel rooms.

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    Very meditative.

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    One day we met this Japanese biker on a DRZ400SM on his way to Europe. We stayed together for a day and a night. He had a completely different approach to packing.

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    Steady speed along the M51.

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    One way of looking stupid. The moskitoes were nasty that evening. We just got into our tents and called it a day.

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    People we meet along the road.

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    Nil was coming from Spain and heading for Mongolia on a very small Yamaha - 125cc I think.

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    Hans had joined us and we spent the night in a roadside gastiniza. After a day on the motorcycle we were enjoying a typical Russian banja.

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    Packing up on the following morning and going different directions. The Transalp looks like a big bike compared to the Yamaha.
    Nil made it to UB and back home.

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    Our daily routine was packing, riding, resting, taking some pictures, having tea, a cigarette, some food, taking fuel ...

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    and finding a place where to sleep.
  8. eustachius

    eustachius Adventurer

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    I would guess potatoes, but I am not much of a gardener myself.
  9. potski

    potski Wiley Wanderer

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    Hi eustachius,

    Yet more fantastic images of your trip; maybe an effort at times for you to stop and take, but now great to look back on for you and us all here. What an insight into both your travels, the other riders you met, bikes (and packing styles), but above all a view of the lives and culture of the people and the lands you travelled through.


    Cheers
    Potski :freaky
  10. achesley

    achesley Old Motorcyclist

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    :clap:clap:clap Great pictures of a beautiful land and it's people. Thanks for sharing. Love checking in every few days to see what you have brought to us. :clap:clap:clap
  11. blackcaps

    blackcaps Do it alone

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    Yes thats what I saw too. Although there are quite a lot of Russians who still drive the old Ural boxer or two stroke Izh the majority has a modern bike second hand imported from Japan or the States. And those are cruisers (the bigger the better) or fast -super-bikes like Blackbird or Hayabusa.

    Where we think that we need an offroad to handle the bad Russian roads they do all with their cruisers.

    A little more than a month before I met them in Ukrain. They just came that day from Russia. I would go there the next day. There are not so many roads indeed.
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  12. eustachius

    eustachius Adventurer

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    I mentioned before that the weather was good most of my trip. I had some rain and cold in Eastern Turkey, some showers in Kyrgyzstan, very little rain in the Altai and in Mongolia, and a few rainy days on the way across Siberia. Not bad for the duration of the trip. I've heard of people who got soaked in Siberia.

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    We met Inaki from Spain on his Fazer 600. He was going to Wladiwostok and on. He was going fast and long distances.

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    We were approaching the Ural mountains.

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    Café Oktan and Café Sputnik.

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    Traffic was getting dense and our breaks more frequent.

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  13. eustachius

    eustachius Adventurer

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    I forgot to mention the police in Russia. We were waved down a couple of times and were 'fined' for going too fast, for overtaking, for I don't know what. We got away cheaply because we didn't 'need a receipt', everybody understands. Sometimes we bargained them down to a souvenir from Austria, something we were carrying in our tankbags and didn't need.

    I 'forgot' to buy insurance for Russia after Mongolia. It was raining when we crossed the border and I didn't want to bother. At the first police check they wanted to see my insurance. Bad luck! I had to pay, but it wasn't much really, something like 20$, without receipt. They told me to buy insurance at the next filling station. Of course, there was nobody there who could do this, but someone called someone and a couple ofminutes later we followed a young man in his car into the centre of town, where I bought insurance for two weeks. We wanted to show our gratitude to the young Russian, but he would not accept anything.

    Police checks became more frequent towards the west. In Ukraine we were almost paranoid, at times there were so many cops along the roads that we were too tense to enjoy riding.
  14. HenningW

    HenningW HenningW

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    Hi Eustachius,

    the wordl is small, people doing extraordinay things know or meet each other.

    The did in June 2011 a trip from Ulan Bator to Germany and also met the Swiss guys on there BSA, but about between Saratow and Samara and the BSA's in better shape, meaning still with there self built one wheeel trailers. These two were cool guys, cooler than ordinary swiss people.

    We had only 4 weeks free time from our families and therefore we had to hurry on our trip. As you might see (sorry, I have to learn how to oupload pictures, but I'll do that later!) we did it with your "spare bike", three Yamaha XT600 Ténérés from 1983 to 1985 (models 34L and 55W). But you missed something very fascinating: the island Olchon in the baikal lake, really stunning this pieces of (is)-land.

    Maybe we stayed also in the same yellow motel, where you met Inaki from Spain. It hat great room with good showers and was really cheap, food was also great. Unfortunatlly I have only pictures from inside, not the parking lot.

    In 4 week we depart for the Pamir highway again with these three Teneres. Maybe we will write a ride report, when we are back home.

    Greetings Henning
  15. eustachius

    eustachius Adventurer

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    Hi Henning,

    great to hear from you. Yes, indeed, the world is a small place.
    The two Swiss guys on the BSA had abandoned their trailers somewhere in Russia.

    I have heard about Olchon island and I would love to go back some day. My trip across Siberia and Russia was really a rather fast way back home. I didn't take the time to go off the main road, which I would like to do on a further trip.

    I am afraid my XT Ténéré is not in such a good shape to do the Pamirs.
    Please post some pictures of your bikes on the trip from UB across Russia and write a report of your Pamir trip.

    I had to learn it myself, but once you've got it, it's easy. I am lucky, one of my daughters is a fairly patient teacher for those things.

    Take care.

    Eustachius
  16. eustachius

    eustachius Adventurer

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    This installment is going to take us back home to Austria.

    We found another beautiful and peaceful spot for our tents near Wolgograd, which used to be Stalingrad. It's difficult to believe that not so long ago hundreds of thousands of people lost their lives in this area.

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    There were beautiful wild flowers everywhere and the fragrance of summer, and moskitoes.

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    It was a perfect spot for a camp. We were well hidden in high grass, with a forest on one side to keep us out of the morning sun and a wide view over the rolling land.

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    The next day we met this young Russian couple on their Honda XR 250. They were honeymooning in Kazakhstan.

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    Incredible Japanese bikes.

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    Further west there is much agriculture, endless sunflower fields. We spent our last night in Russia in Kursk, a prosperous town it seemed to us. We found a nice hotel, very central and walked downtown to have a hamburger.

    From Kursk we were going to Kiew and Lemberg and from there to Hungary. Border crossings were easy. Nobody checked my front tire.

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    Houses in Ukraine looked very similar to what we had seen all the way across Siberia. It's a modest yet aesthetic style of architecture.

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    Out of necessity, certain things have the right to a longer useful existence.

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    Impressive churches and monuments.

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    And almost back in Austria

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    and my first pizza after a long time, shortly before I arrived home. It was delicious. And the draught beer was too.

    That was it.

    Thanks to all of you for following me all the way home.

    Thanks for all the contributions and very positive remarks.
  17. Jimdamit

    Jimdamit не стреляйте

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    Thank you for taking us along! While I am sorry to see it end, looks like you had a great time. Great story and pictures.:freaky
  18. spitiko

    spitiko Adventurer

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    All are perfect. Thank you.
  19. BCBackRoads

    BCBackRoads Travels with Gumby

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    Thanks for taking the time to post. I've enjoyed following your journey.

    Wayne
  20. potski

    potski Wiley Wanderer

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    Thanks for taking us along, it's been great. Looking forward to either more on this trip or future eustachius adventures.:clap

    Cheers
    Potski :freaky