Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'British Beasts: Triumph Tigers' started by danger_dave, May 29, 2006.
I have some interest.
+1, the "Death Wings" just really aren't very good. I hear Avon Distanzias are a big upgrade for the Scram
I went with Continental trail attack. 3,000 miles and no sign of wear. Hold the road very well and don't slip on the twisties like the deathwings did.
Added bonus ,they don't have those little "hairs" all other tires seem to have.
I have a 2012 Scrambler with a little over 10k miles and some accessories that I'll be listing this weekend for close to what your price range is.
Going with a renthal bar swap with 2" Rox Risers. Do people recommend the road high or road medium bend? Height is close to the same but the High has more rise and less area for controls. I'm leaning towards the medium for more control space. Any thoughts?
I had a bit of time to install the up'n over rear caliper relocation brake bracket by Free Spirits today. I'm not a mechanic by any means, and I took my sweet time. It took me about 2 hrs in total, including bleeding the brakes and taking pics.
Before starting I inspected my back tire for wear. It is still the stock trail wing. I found this poking diagonally through one of the knobbies....I pulled it out and was lucky I didn't have to do a flat repair at the same time.
I jacked up the bike just enough to have the back wheel touching the ground, and loosened the axel nut/bolt. At this point I removed the stock caliper bolts, and banjo bolt from the rear caliper.
The stock set up has the rear brake line underneath the swing arm. The brake line is held in place with a rubber grommet/bracket screwed on underneath.
The up'n over bracket requires the brake line to be re-routed between the engine and swing arm then over the top of the swing arm, other wise it would be too short. You can see the tip of the screwdriver showing where I routed it.
There is a plastic cap on the top of the swing arm, when removed, gives access for the brake line bracket to be secured from the top of the swing arm by using an extra long screw and spacer. It is supplied with the kit. I threaded in the new screw but kept it loose for the time being to allow the brake line to move.
Once the brake line was re-routed I got to work on replacing the stock caliper bracket. It was pretty straight forward, and by leaving the tire just resting on the ground I was able to pull out the axle without any of the spacers falling out. Then I slid out the stock bracket and replaced it with the new relocation bracket. I put a bit of grease on the sliding cut out portion of the new bracket to make life easier.
Lining up the holes was a little tricky but some grease on the axel bolt helped.
After that was done I was able to adjust the chain, and tighten the wheel back up.
Having removed the banjo bolt from the caliper allowed me to inspect and clean the brake caliper. After that I put some wooden pieces in between the brake pads (from a paint stir stick) and tightened the banjo bolt back to the proper torque setting, making sure it pointed in the right direction for the new bracket.
Before putting the caliper back on I needed to bleed the brake line of air. I only removed one screw from the rear master cylinder cover and loosened the bottom screw so that the cover pivoted and gave me access to fill the reservoir with brake fluid.
I suspended the caliper with a bungee cord so that the bleed valve (nipple) was the highest point and attached a clear tube to the bleed valve. I submersed the end in DOT 4 brake fluid which made it easy to see the air bubbles.
Pumping the rear brake pedal was tricky, while watching for air bubbles and I used a long pipe to reach over the seat and press down on the pedal. It only took a few minutes of pumping and refilling the reservoir with new DOT4 fluid before there were no more air bubbles.
I tightened the bleed valve back to the correct torque, removed the wood from in between the brake pads and was almost done. The last step was to put the caliper on the new bracket. It seemed like a bit of a stretch, but once one of the new caliper bolts was in (the kit comes with two) it was easy to get the second one threaded. The last step was to torque them up and tighten the screw holding the brake line in place on the top of the swing arm.
I tested out the back brake when I was finished. No prob.
One final pic of the bracket installed.
I'm a happy camper with this mod! It will make inspecting, cleaning and changing the brake pads so much easier, beside moving the caliper out of harms way from dirt, grime, mud and stones when I venture off road.
Pulled up next to a bloke on a Scrambler at the lights in Brisbane this afternoon and said "Seen the Scrambler thread on ADV Rider?"
"I started that".
Nyk nyk nyk.
You're hired! Nicely done, well explained with good pics. Thanks for posting this, it certainly helps demystify for a noob.
Good post nerfirn.
Bleeding that puppy can be a bitch.
If you actually do off road the up and over should by high on the list of mods.
Thats not all you started you monstrous Ocker.
My affection towards twin cylinder has become an obsession that my GP is concerned about.
Still raining in UnZud
Thanks DaSwami, I'm a noob as well with the Scrambler! I'm more familiar with my DR650 but was anxious to do this mod. One of the biggest hurdles I have is trying to rush things to "getter done"...doesn't always work out well for me. For this mod I took my time. Lol!
Thanks Kiwi Mo. It was trickier than I thought to bleed the back brake. Keeping the bleed valve as the highest point helped. The most awkward part was pumping the foot lever with a metal pipe while keeping an eye out for bubbles, lol! I do a bit of off road with the Scrambler, nothing serious though. Just having the brake pads and calliper out of the way gives me piece of mind, as well as easy access to clean them change them etc.
I just posted a 2008 KLR650 fork set in the flea market.
Wheel, forks, axle, caliper.
If you're interested, shoot me an offer.
100 to 110 mph is about right, depending. Figure speedo error in also, so actual mph could be less.
I thought only a 100-105 mph on mine, but a 1200 Sportster I was racing said I was going 110.
We were a dead heat up to top speed. Also about a dead heat with a 650 Vstrom.
Whoever got the jump won. Rip roaring!
Squeeze the tank for added stability. Got shocks? & do the Blacktiger fork mod.
I can go 80-90 mph pretty much endlessly. Enjoy your speed demon!
110 seems to be about max on my Scrambler as well.
I must have a slow one.
That post #1 photo - drifting the back end a bit with the dirt flying - was brilliant. Pity it doesn't show now.
I'd loved the look of the Scrambler but other online reviews I'd read in '08 after riding a demonstrator and pondering placing an order were taking the 'off road styled' rather than 'off road' line (One, I recall, saying something like 'wouldn't be happy any further off the road than the end of your driveway' !). Then I read your report in post #1, saw the photo, and thought 'That's more like it! I'll have one!'. Been loving it ever since. Thanks.
Will post pics of new Scrmabler later. Arrow pipe, crash bars, center stand are on. 17T front sprocket, renthal bars, Rox Risers, Zeta Guards, Hagon 370mm Trail shocks and Hagon Fork springs coming as well. Also rear brake caliper kit.
Just picked up a blank canvas 2015 Scrambler...can't decide what to mod first...I guess a few miles on it will help me determine my customization path.
Happy to have this awesome resource thread, and hope to be able to contribute.