Triumph Tiger 800

Discussion in 'British Beasts: Triumph Tigers' started by ScrambDaddy, Jul 12, 2010.

  1. Vzuke

    Vzuke Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 13, 2008
    Oddometer:
    153
    jpr

    I had the same type of mirrors on my supermoto so I am used to them. The supermoto has CRG mirrors and the Tiger has Bike Master. BIG difference in price (Bike Master less). They both seem about the same in reflective power. The mirrors are slightly convex. Manuevering around a tight garage with them is a challenge. I really like the low profile look of them.

    The pegs are Rivco products. You buy the clamps separate (they have different diameters). The clamps work pretty good, mine haven't moved since install.
    CRUISE IN COMFORT
    http://www.rivcoproducts.com/products/home.php?cat=221
    -------------------------------------------------------
    Crabbait

    I removed my stock shield and took a ride one day and after awhile that wind blast to the chest gets old. You don't get that with this low shield. I'm 6'2" (with a 36" inseam). The wind hits me about at the base of the helmet. The shield is fairly new to me. I'll have to do some more testing. I would say it has less turbulence than the stock shield.

    ------------------------------------------------------
    CRFan1

    I too enjoy the clean air. I may have to try this shield with a street helmet instead of my Shoei Hornet "dirt" helmet.
    This will be my summer shield.
  2. doxbike

    doxbike Been here awhile

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    So I'm getting ready to get new tireson the XC, took the deathwings off at 800 miles, replaced them with Heidenau k-60's and 11,000 mile later they're getting close. Been pretty happy with them overall especially the mileage I've gotten with them. Just wondering if I should try something different. Lotta people run TKC's, but heard they don't last more than a few thou. Most of my riding is on the twisties, but I like to occasionally like to hit some lite dirt. How about the Metzeler Karoo 3's? Shinko 705's. The Mitas sound interesting but lotta problem getting them to SoCal outa Canada. any other thoughts/recommendations? Thanks
  3. klinquist

    klinquist ├╝bergeek

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    With mostly twisties with the occasional light dirt, I'd just do Anakee 3s.

    Knobbies (TKC, Karoo3s) are really only better/necessary in more than "light" dirt.... you need em for mud/sand.

    I run Anakees now, great tires, scraped pegs with new suspension for the first time the other day. (Scraped pegs with stock suspension all the time).

    Ran Karoo3s on my death valley ride, but that was a LOT more than "light" dirt.

    And I'm on a roadie :)

    [​IMG]

    I will go back to knobbies for a 2800mile offroad ride in Sept, ... but for the average Sierras forest road? where I ride super fun paved roads to get there? Anakees are fine
  4. browneye

    browneye PIN IT & BANG GEARS

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    So you're likin' em huh? You get to try out all the new tires. LOL.

    I have a rear I got for a deal as a take-off, was thinking of getting a matching front and run 'em for road trips.

    But my trips always seem to end up on dirt, so may go back to Fullbore rear and then change out a road front (like anakee) or TKC depending. The FB is a great tire but only last about 6K miles. I guess that's long enough for a $87 tire. Sure works well.

    I really did like the scorp trails for road, I'm thinking I'd like the A-3's too.


    [​IMG]
  5. TxLoneRider

    TxLoneRider Been here awhile

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    I have the OEM still on the front, but a new Anekee III on the back, and the Anekee III had not problem moving the 800XC along yesterday when I was on some really sandy dirt.

    But then, just as a bout to head back onto the road, I found a nail, arggg.
  6. blacktiger

    blacktiger Tigers R great.

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  7. Drunk_Uncle

    Drunk_Uncle Long timer

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    Now on a tubeless tire a puncture is the end of the tire. But with a tubeb tire can't you just put new tube in and G2G?
  8. blacktiger

    blacktiger Tigers R great.

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    A puncture on tubeless can be repaired but the puncture needs to be in the middle few inches of the tread. The repair has to be a mushroom inserted from the inside and vulcanized.
    You have to work out whether it's worth the cost (£30ish) over the mileage left in that tyre compared to the cost of just fitting a new one.
  9. swimmer

    swimmer armchair asshole

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    tucson, AZ, It's a dry hate.

    Just plug the tubeless and keep riding. Why would it be the end of the tire? You don't even have to take the tire off and most times you can pull the offending object out of the tire if you notice it soon enough, plug it, and still have enough air in the tire for safe travel to somewhere to air up if you happen to not have a pump with you. I've got 10k's of miles on plugged tires. Never an issue. Got one in my rear anakee2 now with about 10k miles on it.

    I converted my Xchallenge rear to tubeless for the above simplicity of dealing with a puncture.
  10. Big Jon

    Big Jon Been here awhile

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    I've been using plugs for at least 20 years. The type I use are plugged from the inside. I do always try to get whatever caused the leak out of the tire first. Some plugs are designed with a patch attached. These plugs are used just like a traditional repair where the tire is taken off the rim and buffed around the hole, then glued before the plug is inserted, and stitched, (run over with a patch roller) and the excess plug is cut off flush with the tread. This type of patched plug is usually considered a better fix.
  11. loxsmith

    loxsmith Good ol days my arse

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    the main benefit of tubeless tyres is they normally go down slowly allowing you to get it stopped.
    Tubed tyres go down in the blink of an eye and make for some interesting times if you can stay on it
    Tubeless can be plugged reinflated and ride away within minutes, tubeless have to be stripped and patched or a new tube fitted
    There is a reason why all modern cars run tubeless tyres, give me tubeless any day
  12. doxbike

    doxbike Been here awhile

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    So if I am reading it correctly, the OEM Battlewings on my 2011 xc, front 90/90-21 is bias ply; the Rear 150/70-17 is radial ply. The Heidenaus appear to be bias front and rear-can't find the specific designation on line or on the tire. If I should decide to try the full bores, should I go m-40 radial on the rear and m-41 on the front (only have 90/90-21 in bias).

    I thought you weren't supposed to mix radial and bias, yet it appears that several Triumph models do.
  13. bross

    bross Where we riding to?

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    BMW used to mix radial and bias on their F650 as well. Common and no biggie.
  14. blacktiger

    blacktiger Tigers R great.

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    It's a common misconception that you can't mix radial and cross ply. You can. BUT you can only do it by having the radial on the rear.
  15. loxsmith

    loxsmith Good ol days my arse

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  16. Drunk_Uncle

    Drunk_Uncle Long timer

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    Finally hit 300 miles today and can now take her to 6000rpm. I am truly loving this bike more and more. Seems to have all of what I loved about my Sprint ST and none of what I didn't like about it. Now if they would just sweep the fun roads.
  17. JTB488

    JTB488 Been here awhile

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    I just hit 504 today, picked it up this past Tuesday.
  18. Poweranger

    Poweranger Been here awhile

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    Exactly this. I transferred from the Sprint ST also. I hit 9000 on mine today and it is still as much fun as the first 300.
  19. blacktiger

    blacktiger Tigers R great.

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    Just wait until you're allowed above 6000rpm.............................:evil
  20. fullmonte

    fullmonte Reformed Kneedragger

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    Fixt to reflect the memory of yesterday's ride.:D