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Discussion in 'British Beasts: Triumph Tigers' started by ScrambDaddy, Jul 12, 2010.
No, you're completely wrong. You can get anything from 2.5 to 20 weight of fork oil.
to me this is an old way of thinking. oils have temperature ranges these days. a good 10w-40 will work as described as long as you stick to the correct temperature ranges described by the manufacturer. i would say most synthetic oils are good into the negative temperature ranges (def F). also companies like Amsoil say right on the oil that the 10w-40 will work for a variety of different oil needs... although this may not be true for all companies and can vary between synthetic and standard. this discussion is very much less important when talking about Synthetic! just stick to what the motor or manual says. it doesn't pay to over think when it comes to oil. old habits die hard!!! especially oil habits. even when its hot outside its best to let the bike warm up before you ride it. same goes with cold temps, it will just take longer.
AMSOIL Synthetic 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil is recommended for liquid or air-cooled 4-stroke engines. It meets SAE 80W/90, API GL-1 gear oil requirements and is recommended for transmissions on both 4- and 2-stroke motorcycles. AMSOIL MCF is recommended for Honda®, Kawasaki®, Yamaha®, Suzuki®, BMW®, Husqvarna®, Victory® and other motorcycles where 10W-40 or 20W-40 engine oils or SAE 80W/90, GL-1 gear oils are used. Not recommended where an API GL-4 or GL-5 gear oil is required.
i hate oil discussions. its way to opinionated!!!
Well all I can say is good luck. After all, it's your bike making the rattling noise, not mine.
I think he meant that fork oil has a static viscosity, as opposed to changing with the temperature.
Your logic just doesn't make sense. If a 5W-? oil is to thin then a 10W-? oil would be too thin a at some slightly warmer temperature.
Rotella T6 is one of the most commonly used synthetic oils by motorcyclists. Been using it for a long time including track use.
My thinking of the rattling noise was more along the lines of perhaps a valve(s) becoming out of tolerance.
I dunno...I buy a LOT of gas. My Winnebago gets about 7.5mpg. I calculate it's fifty cents a mile just for fuel. So a 1200 mile trip costs at least $600 for gas. OUCH! Taking the bike on the same trip costs about $100. But then I can't take my wife and three dogs, or my teenager if he decides to join us.
I have also estimated the cost of owning the RV is about $12,000 a year. I guess we all have differing priorities. I have four other cars and the 3 bikes. Seems like I spend my money 'real good'.
Yep. What he said.
But I wouldn't run it regularly in a motor that called for xW-30 weight oil, unless I had a very specific reason to, because the second value is what's important once up to temp, and where your motor spends most of its time. A 40 would be less viscous in a warm motor. Running a oil with a slightly higher cold viscosity (lower first number) just means that it flows easier when cold, but will 'thicken' as it warms.
Thanks for all the responses everyone. I'm awaiting a call from my local Triumph dealer on an 800xc OTD price. My goals for this bike is simple, everyday commuter and fun bike. Ill keep the 4runner for the crap days and hauling my dogs. BTW the mpg on my 4runner is 19 .
lol. I guess my point was riding a motorcycle is the best option. For a lot of reasons.
I like that point!
I just got an OTD price which I think is very fair. Looks like there is a Tiger on my near future!
That's not bad as I have an 800XC and my second is a built Jeep Wrangler getting 13mpg.... I use the bike whenever I can in IL.
Both, my Daytona 675 and Tiger 1050 made/make that noise. Valves were/are all in spec. I ran/run the specified viscosity oil. The Daytona had nearly 3500 track miles on it and was ridden nearly year-'round. I ride the Tiger, year-'round. I wouldn't worry about a little valve clatter, upon start up. Once things get warmed up a bit, valve tolerances tighten.
Someone please kill the new format.
bottom right drop down menu. Change back to 2.0 from crush or whatever...
You are the man! Thanks. My eyes were beginning to explode.
For what it's worth, mine started making that startup clatter at about 6,000 miles. It irritated me, so I followed the procedure in the manual for removing the tensioner. Looking at it, I saw that the resister ring (the piece tht holds the plunger in place in absence of oil pressure) was out of position. I reset the ring and reinstalled the tensioner and no more noise.
That's not the new format, it's the old format. An admin probably accidentally changed the default.