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Discussion in 'British Beasts: Triumph Tigers' started by ScrambDaddy, Jul 12, 2010.
Just finished mounting my new Mega Tool Tube.
I've scanned through a good 80 pages of the thread and have some general answers to my Q's, but all the same, I'd like some direct feedback on the Roadie if you don't mind :)
I test road both the XC and the roadie - out of the box, the roadie is the better fit, especially height-wise with the seat lowered. My preferred position is to be more upright - have you found that there is enough room to sweep the bars up and back say 1.5" in both dimensions without compromising steering feel and cabling?
I go 175lbs and found the suspension to be pretty stiff around the city. Generally speaking, are you finding good results with revalving/respringing the showa shock and forks? For those that outright replaced the shock with a fully adjustable one, was it hands-down worth it, or do you feel a good suspension shop can dial in the showa shock?
With a proper set of shoes and a full set of crash equipment, the roadie won't be totally out of it's element for some moderate off-roading would it? Put it this way, would you find it able to go where an old BMW F650 can go? I log only 150 miles of dirt a year with the Chain Gang, and generally speaking, we don't do anything too crazy.
Lastly, do used '11-12 roadies pop up online regularly, and what's a rough price range without upgrades?
Let me say this much - that power plant is so flexible, and the transmission is a thing of beauty - never ridden a combo like that, and its a major piece of the puzzle for me!
Thanks for the input, hope I'm not unearthing stuff already covered at length elsewhere - if so, just point me there please :)
No problem with either adjustable ROX Risers (50mm, 2 inches) and the Roadie riser blocks or alternatively the XC riser blocks (~ 30mm, 1.18 inches). Cable is okay. I would not combine both though.
I use the XC risers since about 2000 miles and are very happy with the setup. The ROX got me to sit too upright and I got some trouble with lower back and shoulders on long days (500+ miles). No problems with just the XC risers and the Roadie handlebars.
There is one guy who installed R1200GS handlebars - they are wider and higher, different sweep, I like these bars better, but it's easier to go with the Triumph bars for the heated grips and other stuff.
I did a replacement with fully adjustable Traxxion AK-20 fork cartridges. Probably not "worth every penny" as it was quite a lot of pennies, but a satisfying result. If you're not pressed for money and rather prefer a good suspension, they are worth it. Otherwise you definitely need a specialist for re-valving, proper springs for your weight, plus the correct oil. Here in the Bay Area are a few shops I can recommend, one is Catalyst Reaction in San Carlos the other Evolution suspension in San Jose. I generally bring the Tiger to Evolution as I like their service and the people.
The rear spring isn't done on my Tiger and it is actually not bad when I have the cases installed (+30lbs, I'm 156 without any clothing). Might be that you just need to adjust it properly. I'm not clear on whether a rework of the shock will get satisfying results. It might or it might not. For me, there is either a Penske or a Wilbers in the very near future.
I don't like going "off-road" with the Tiger, but a nice graded dirt road isn't an issue for me. It's a much bigger and heavier bike than the F650GS Single (we own a Roadie and a 2005 F650GS Single at the moment, so I have a good comparison), so, make your own decision. I prefer lighter and cheaper bikes for that kind of thing. That's another reason I didn't buy a XC - I'm not a person to trash such a heavy and nice bike around on gnarly trails. Rather take a WR250R or KTM there ... more fun, much easier, and much cheaper. But that's just me.
Mine popped up a few weeks ago because I wasn't comfortable riding it anymore after a deer encounter (full repair done in a shop, clean title), but I decided at that time to just keep it because it is such a super nice bike. Would have also taken quite a hit on the price, offered it for ~10k with Jesse luggage, Traxxion front, and lots of other goodies.
So, if you look for private sales you can get a good one, but they aren't very common. Within two days here and on Craigslist I had five people saying that they could pretty much guarantee to take it after personal inspection. But then I got a change of heart and decided to keep it for the time being ...
Great info, thanks for that response! Yes, I might find the bike too nice to take off road and leave that work for the F650.
I think you'll be leaving the F650 at home more and more. The Triple800 is so flexible, as you mention in a previous post, that you can run it at tickover with hands off the throttle, the injection software is that good. I look at the roadie as being like the Scrambler900. i.e. It'll do quite knarly tracks if you want it to. I surprised a lot of people taking my Scram where it wasn't supposed to go.
An idea for you.....
If your plate at the lid end is thick enough, you can thread that centre hole and use a bolt through it to lock the lid. It stops thieves getting in and also stop the lid unscrewing itself whilst you're riding.
Actually, what I did is use a thick plate inside the mount as a clamp plate. You can just see the bolt going into a blind hole in the lid.
Yes I know my plates need painting.
Yes that is a good idea and I considered doing that while
I was making the plate but I want to keep the tube
waterproof if I can.
I drilled the third hole anyway so I still have the option.
May add a Ram mount ball there for a GoPro.
Need to think about how to secure the lid some more.
Thanks for the idea though!
I just bought the "locking" version of the tube, came with a short cable and small lock.
I needed the height so I could stand more comfortably. No problem with the cables or wires. Although the clutch cable is at it's limit with this set up. I put a piece of door edge molding on the right gas tank mounting flange(?). Didn't want the cable jacket to get messed up on the metal edge at full lock.
yes, the Ohlins comes with a lifetime warranty so I never have to dick with it again. Revalving is great but its set up for you, and that sucks when you go to sell it to someone else. I think having the good warranty saves you money in the long run. And it's probably not really that much more money...
But Oehlins are often off the shelf and not done for your weight. Or did you get a proper spring explicitly for your weight? If yes, where?
Wilbers builds the shock exactly for you and what you do with the bike, price is about the same as Oehlins, 5 years warranty, properly rebuildable.
I've replaced mine with a fully adjustable one from Hyperpro. Built from the ground up for my specs. Definetely cheaper than Ohlins, propably just as good .
Worth the money; can't say yet since it's only been 500 km's but already I have a feeling I'm not going to regret the investment.
Thanks for the input guys.
I'd like to cycle back to a few XC questions - I don't want to dismiss the bike too soon based on my feel of the riding position...
Since it looks like the bars can be swept up and back, that should take care of being more upright...
Can the pegs be moved down and forward by chance? I felt i was in a bit of a crouch.
Lastly, I'd say the bike was maybe 1 - 1.5" too high for my preferences (5-10, 32 inseam). My thinking is that once I toss bags on, I'm getting closer on the rear. For those that have lowered the bike, have you found that it didn't compromise the handling too much?
Here's my bigger picture thinking - The engine and transmission are perfect for my low speed needs around SF and plenty of power for everything else. If I can get the ergo's proper (which was the Roadie's out-of-the-box advantage), then the XC allows me to do my modest and occasional dual-sporting without concern. Also, my feeling is that there is more room to work with for dialing in the suspension to my liking since I'm really not looking to exploit every inch of travel - I just want it to absorb bumps a bit better than my F650 (Ohlins shock, stock front with intiminators)- it shouldn't be too damn hard i figure :)
And regarding ergos - I haven't even considered that the seat can be addressed as well.
Ever seen this? Maybe it will help. http://cycle-ergo.com/
I found it to be virtually identical to my '09 DR650. Boots make a difference too. I'm 5'11" with a 32" inseam and can flat foot the DR with my riding boots on.
I don't think you can easily move them forward, but there are a few options to make them more comfortable, wider, lower:
SW Motech On/Off Road Pegs (lower/wider)
Touratech Works (wider, more open, not sure about lower)
Pivot Pegz (pivoting, wider, don't think they'll mount lower)
If I'd look into anything at all, I'd get either the SW Motech or the Touratech. Didn't find the pivot pegs useful at all when I had them on my R1200GS.
But first of all: take the rubber out and try again. You'll get nearly an inch seat-to-peg distance which helps a lot.
Unfortunately Fastway doesn't make their pegs for the Tiger, it's a real bummer because these are probably the best combination of them all.
Regarding ergos you can do all adjustments to XC as well as Roadie. Parts are interchangeable. The main issue is: if you lower an XC to Roadie level, you'll have trouble with the softer suspension and scraping in corners. The suspension is softer and provides more travel - therefore, if you get them close together (said 1.5 inches), the Roadie will actually give you better ground clearance because of the harder suspension with less travel.
And the Roadie will already touch the pegs down fairly early, shortly followed by hard parts - which you certainly don't want. So, if canyon carving is in your mind, I would not lower the XC but get a Roadie. If you don't lower the XC, you should be okay.
I have a low and a standard seat for my Roadie and they give exactly the same reach to the ground. The standard seat is too soft, it lets you sink in after a few minutes, giving you the same reach to the ground, but you can very intimately feel how the plastic seat pan is shaped and where it hurts your behind. The low seat is much firmer, but has wide edges, making the reach to the ground actually more uncomfortable according to my wife (5'7", 32.5" inseam). For me it doesn't matter that much (34.5" inseam).
So, to get better reach to the ground: forget the Triumph low seat. Buy one with a better shape.
As said, the standard seat is way too soft, I'm planning on having mine re-done at Corbin on the stock pan for the stock height but with much firmer foam. Not sure whether and when I'll get to that though.
One more thing: The XC has tubed tires, the Roadie tubeless. I don't care much for tubed tires, therefore this was another argument for me to get the Roadie - plus the firmer suspension was a bit more stable for my typical riding. I'd have liked if Triumph had given the two a bit more "distance" from each other. A 17" front and a slightly wider rear on the Roadie + fully adjustable suspension would have been my dream bike.
Other than that: great bike! Yesterday on Highway 9:
Regarding hard parts touching down, I think that's what happened to these guys (at ~7:30):
it was ordered with the spring i chose. my dealer did it all.
mine was a warranty claim so i lucked out with the "price". my ohlins was ordered to my specs. everything is adjustable as well. the turn dials are on top so I can transition from highway to offroad and not even have to stop. its sweet!
Havent had a chance to post -I picked this beauty up a month ago - now just chomping at the bit for some good weather around here
Thanks to all the inmates - this forum helped tremendously making my decision
Nice pic. Congrats!