Triumph Tiger 800

Discussion in 'British Beasts: Triumph Tigers' started by ScrambDaddy, Jul 12, 2010.

  1. cug

    cug --

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    I don't think you can easily move them forward, but there are a few options to make them more comfortable, wider, lower:

    SW Motech On/Off Road Pegs (lower/wider)
    Touratech Works (wider, more open, not sure about lower)
    Pivot Pegz (pivoting, wider, don't think they'll mount lower)

    If I'd look into anything at all, I'd get either the SW Motech or the Touratech. Didn't find the pivot pegs useful at all when I had them on my R1200GS.

    But first of all: take the rubber out and try again. You'll get nearly an inch seat-to-peg distance which helps a lot.

    Unfortunately Fastway doesn't make their pegs for the Tiger, it's a real bummer because these are probably the best combination of them all.

    Regarding ergos you can do all adjustments to XC as well as Roadie. Parts are interchangeable. The main issue is: if you lower an XC to Roadie level, you'll have trouble with the softer suspension and scraping in corners. The suspension is softer and provides more travel - therefore, if you get them close together (said 1.5 inches), the Roadie will actually give you better ground clearance because of the harder suspension with less travel.

    And the Roadie will already touch the pegs down fairly early, shortly followed by hard parts - which you certainly don't want. So, if canyon carving is in your mind, I would not lower the XC but get a Roadie. If you don't lower the XC, you should be okay.

    I have a low and a standard seat for my Roadie and they give exactly the same reach to the ground. The standard seat is too soft, it lets you sink in after a few minutes, giving you the same reach to the ground, but you can very intimately feel how the plastic seat pan is shaped and where it hurts your behind. The low seat is much firmer, but has wide edges, making the reach to the ground actually more uncomfortable according to my wife (5'7", 32.5" inseam). For me it doesn't matter that much (34.5" inseam).

    So, to get better reach to the ground: forget the Triumph low seat. Buy one with a better shape.

    As said, the standard seat is way too soft, I'm planning on having mine re-done at Corbin on the stock pan for the stock height but with much firmer foam. Not sure whether and when I'll get to that though.

    One more thing: The XC has tubed tires, the Roadie tubeless. I don't care much for tubed tires, therefore this was another argument for me to get the Roadie - plus the firmer suspension was a bit more stable for my typical riding. I'd have liked if Triumph had given the two a bit more "distance" from each other. A 17" front and a slightly wider rear on the Roadie + fully adjustable suspension would have been my dream bike.

    Other than that: great bike! Yesterday on Highway 9:

    [​IMG]
  2. cug

    cug --

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  3. fbj913

    fbj913 On the Beemer Kool-Aid

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    it was ordered with the spring i chose. my dealer did it all.
  4. fbj913

    fbj913 On the Beemer Kool-Aid

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    mine was a warranty claim so i lucked out with the "price". my ohlins was ordered to my specs. everything is adjustable as well. the turn dials are on top so I can transition from highway to offroad and not even have to stop. its sweet!
  5. Sound Farm

    Sound Farm Art x Science

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    Havent had a chance to post -I picked this beauty up a month ago:clap - now just chomping at the bit for some good weather around here
    Thanks to all the inmates - this forum helped tremendously making my decision

    !photo bomb!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
  6. burmbuster

    burmbuster Long timer

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    Nice pic. Congrats!
  7. ducnut

    ducnut Long timer

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    It depends. An Ohlins ordered through Triumph's OEM program is going to be a standard spec. However, if you order from a suspension specialist, they'll be built to the shop's spec by Ohlins in NC. If you use a suspension shop that has a shock dyno, they should verify the valving and spring rate, before shipping to you. Traxxion Dynamics offer a guaratee on their valving/springing; if you're not satisfied with it, they'll keep at it until you are satisfied. I ran my front springs, for a year. When I sent the forks back in for servicing, they swapped them to a lighter rate, at no charge for the springs.

    I wouldn't go that far. I'm not an Ohlins nut (never owned one), but, from talking to the crew chief of an AMA rider, whose day job is at Traxxion (they offer several brands of shocks), the differences are inside. Some of the stuff he's seen inside of various shocks would constantly bother me, if I ever bought those brands.
  8. ducnut

    ducnut Long timer

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    When you lower the rear, you're raking out the frontend. If you're talking a bike with a soft-ish rear suspension, lowering only the rear will cause the bike to not finish turns even more. That means you'll be leaning the bike over further and further, yet, it won't turn. This will cause hard parts to drag and/or running off the outside of the turn's exit. You want to equally lower the front and rear. Lowering the front pays off, because most people, who are at their inseam limit, tend to slide forward on the seat at a stop. Don't be afraid to tinker with geometry, as you can always return it to the original position.
  9. john_h

    john_h Adventurer

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    Copy that... 45 lbs of rack/bags on the back would probably allow me to raise the fork tubes at least 1/2", which may make the height acceptable - it's about the same height I have my F650 and multistrada right now, just 60 lbs heavier.

    As I'd likely end up having a suspension shop tune the front and back to my liking, I might be able to factor in another 1/2" or so possibly? In either case, it looks like the height issue is workable from a couple of different angles.
  10. cug

    cug --

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    It certainly is - just be careful with what you do there. Maybe it's better to just get used to it. If you don't want a suspension shop to make the XC suspension as stiff as the Roadie suspension, you'll drag hard parts earlier on the XC if you bring it down so low. I wouldn't want to catch hard parts when cornering, might not be an issue for you, but as said before, the Tiger is fairly wide at the pegs, so that stuff drags very early without lowering either bike ...
  11. blacktiger

    blacktiger Tigers R great.

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    The tube isn't waterproof as supplied anyway as there's a hole in the side near the large mount. That's what's being covered by that bit of duct tape in my picture. The hole I drilled into the lid is "blind". i.e. it doesn't go right through.
  12. blacktiger

    blacktiger Tigers R great.

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    I agree but with that guy's 32" inseam he shouldn't be struggling (I don't with my 30" with seat on high) which suggests that the rider sag isn't set right.
  13. cug

    cug --

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    I rather suspect a different comfort level with high and heavy bikes. And to be honest: riding in San Francisco is quite different from riding somewhere in the boonies.

    So, don't compare just seat height and inseam, also consider what the daily ride might look like. I personally hate riding in San Francisco and I take every advantage I can get to do it. A light, flickable, low enough bike goes a long way there.
  14. lmychajluk

    lmychajluk Long timer

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    I have about a 30" inseam, and just picked up my 800 last week. I'm up on my toes or the balls of my feet at best with the seat in the low position. Without changing links, etc..., is there some adjustment to the suspension? Will the bike 'settle' a little as it breaks in (~300mi on it now)?
  15. john_h

    john_h Adventurer

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    I spoke with a fellow inmate with a lowered XC that has a shorter inseam than me (30-31" - as well as a former racer) and the bike height and handling accommodates him fine. Didn't ask specifically about dragging pegs or bottoming out in the turns, but I'd have to figure a guy with a racing history would have figured out if it was an issue... Seems I'll be ok there, whichever route I take - but I appreciate the input!

    Oh - and regarding the suitability for riding in SF - our streets positively suck! I suspect the 21" wheel will be well-suited for all our potholes and constant road paving - the multi's 17" front no likey big dips (one of the reasons she'll be in the classifieds soon ;)
  16. john_h

    john_h Adventurer

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    Good question (i have the same one :)...

    I suppose you could back out the shock preload and raise the fork tubes incrementally until the geometry feels like it's proper, and see how that height feels. Doing so would throw your front/rear sags out of balance a bit, so to get them back in balance maybe experiment with some shorter spacers up front, then drop the tubes back to the original height and check the height/geometry again...

    Anyways, off the top of my head, that would be my tinkering thoughts :)
  17. Big Jon

    Big Jon Been here awhile

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    Hey Sound Farm. That's a nice looking XC you picked up. :thumb Did you get it from Struthers?
  18. fullmonte

    fullmonte Reformed Kneedragger

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    Getting over this tree yesterday might have been more of a PITA on a lowered Tiger. Just something to consider...
    [​IMG]
    The skid plate didn't exactly glide over the tree.:evil
    [​IMG]
  19. Chinookmark

    Chinookmark Been here awhile

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    Don't forget, different people have different comfort levels when it comes to bike height. I had a friend about my height sit on my tiger, and he wouldn't even ride it because he couldn't put both feel flat on the ground. And this guy has 10 years more experience than me, and I consider to be a very talented rider. But he's always ridden shorter bikes, so it was out of his comfort level.

    But spend any time on a 900lb Valkyrie interstate, you learn to balance the bike before it stops. Someone coming from an orange Adventure S or R might be very comfortable with a single toe on the ground.
  20. ducnut

    ducnut Long timer

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    Agreed.

    Two-up, I feel much more comfortable with the Roadie. The XC reminded me of my 1050, height-wise, which I'm looking to get away from.