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Discussion in 'British Beasts: Triumph Tigers' started by ScrambDaddy, Jul 12, 2010.
I go by the indicator dots. Appears to be perfectly aligned. No bad manners, no vibes, nada.
I gotta think you've got it adjusted correctly (properly aligned) as you'd have to try to have it that far out of whack. My bike is not like that.
One word for anyone having trouble adjusting their chain, shaft. Go buy an Explorer or Tenere or GS. I used to be a shaft only kind of guy, hated chains. BUT my wife has only ever ridden chain driven bikes, SO I was stuck with chain maintenance anyway. I realized a few years ago that it really doesn't matter what drive a bike uses, I just buy the bike that I want to ride. And modern chains are pretty damn easy to maintain.
I do as a few have suggested. Adjust on the side stand, put it back on the center stand and re-measure so I know where to adjust to next time. Also check the frame alignment notches or detents on a new bike to see if they're accurate.
Best way to check tension is as one poster mentioned, line up the axle, swingarm pivot, and front sprocket. Use a tie down over the seat to the swingarm. Once they are in line you should have just a slight bit of slack, about 1/2" is plenty as the chain can never get any tighter at that point. Release the tie strap and then put your bike on the side stand, center stand, whichever you prefer and use that as your chain tension.
On our sons dirt bikes we just used four fingers between swingarm and chain, now those were run loose.
How to do it with pretty pictures...
Great tip at the end for making a small wooden chain tension tester.
I'm not at home so I can't look at mine but is there a chance you have one of those blocks upside down? I had the dealer put mine on upside down last year and I had to fix it when I got home. You can't see the marks if it is upside down. Just a thought.
Hmm, considering I didn't realize there was even an upside down, that's entirely possible. I'll have to take a look later, thanks for the advice.
And while I know it's not a very popular solution for whatever reason, if you install a Pro-Oiler and set it up and use it correctly your chain adjustment become pretty much non-existent. Mine gets adjusted when the wheel comes off for tire replacement which is about every 10-14k miles.
Yep. Left side is up side down. Won't hurt anything since the chain tension adjusting bolts keep the alignment.. Just change it the next time you have the axle nut off.
Pics make it look out of alignment but in reality it's good.
Tried a ScottOiler on two of my bikes and didn't like them. Sure they kept the chain lubed but they flung gunk everywhere even though they were adjusted for proper flow, one to two drops a minute. And I think I spent more time trying to keep the tube end hitting the chain / sprockets than I ever have lubing a chain. More trouble than they're worth to me. Lubing isn't a chore and takes 5 minutes for both bikes on a trip so yeah I just don't worry about it.
Understand your frustration with the Scott Oiler. I was referring to the Pro-Oiler though. Very different.
I have a mini can of PJ1 in the top box.
BTW, I put my road tires back on the bike, the trails that came with it, they're such a great tire for mostly road.
Did a mountain trip last weekend, couple'a hundred miles, and was getting the dreaded wheel hop out front. Leaned over at 30 or so it was pretty noticeable.
So when I got home I got my spoke wrench back out as I had "tuned" all the spokes when I did the tire change and thought maybe I had pulled the front rim out of true. Nope, not a waiver, nothing, nada. Tire is true, really close in balance (static).
Then I grabbed the fork legs at the bottom to check the head bearings and found quite a bit of play. Pulled off the top clamp and tightened the nuts and the play went away. Seems I have no more wheel hop now. Keep an eye on those head bearings. About 6K miles on the bike.
Lets not get into another Scottoiler debate but I'll just say this:-
A Scottoiler lubricates for the whole of your journey whereas a spray lube just lubricates at the beginning, until it gets washed off or flings off. Also that constant drip of oil helps keep the chain cool so the internal grease doesn't melt and flow past the seals which is probably most of the reason chains last longer with a Scottoiler.
You have the left adjuster block upside-down. The back end is slanted. Probably does not really matter which way you put it in, but it will be visually different.
Your left side one's upside down. Remove axle nut, remove block, flip it over, reinstall.
EDIT: Should have read further; several people beat me to it.
I will be checking this next. Hopefully my wheel hop issue is solved this easily.
My manual says to adjust chain while the bike it upright with no weight on it. No mention of it being on the side stand.
I checked the alignment and tension and the alignment was off about 1/16 of an inch. I fixed that my rear brake stuttering problem when away. The chain measured from the bottom seems to have about 40-50mm of play which I am questioning too loose? I know it is recommended to run the chains a little loose on the XCs but that seems like a lot. On my sportsbikes I have owned in the past, the chain was alway set with about an inch play while I was sitting on it. But that was race suspension without the travel of the XC. So would a chain being too loose cause the dreaded 4k vibration?
Finally got ahold of a service manual so will be checking torque on every bolt I can find this weekend. I suspect maybe a loose exhaust system bolt somewhere as well.
Appologies if this has been covered elsewhere, I looked but didn't find anything.
I'm wondering if anyone can give an insight as to how the T800 roadie (NOT THE XC) would compare with the BMW1200GSA off road and adventure riding in general.
Both have the 19" front, but the GSA has spoked wheels.
T800 is lighter and easier to get your feet on the ground.
I don't know specs like ground clearance and suspension travel.
I just ask because I test-road the T800 and REALLY liked it... but didn't take it off the tarmac. I have owned a GSA in the past and done some easy dirt with it.
So as an adv bike and the one bike to own if you can own only one bike, would the T800 go anywhere the GSA would?
Assuming 1up only, limited off road skills, not intending to go mental in the dirt. Living in Australia, there is probly no dire need for the 33ltr GSA fuel tank.
Just an old dirtbike subject, but I put my rear axle nut on the brake side. That way if it hits a rock then it will get tighter instead of loose.
The A model GS is a special upgraded model. You really should be comparing to a standard R1200GS. The A has upgraded suspension, bigger tank, lots of guards and armor. It's taller and heavier, and has a lower first gear for crawling. It would be a little more adventure oriented than the T800.
Spoked wheels are an option on a GS. (Not sure about the A model) Standard are cast wheels like the Tiger. OTOH the spoked wheels on a GS are configured for tubeless tires.
The Tiger feels svelt and lively, the GS not so much.
Either bike will go anywhere you want to take it.
I have ridden both, as well as the Super Tenere. I did not bother with the Explorer, by the time I got to the Triumph store I had already elminated liter-plus bikes because they are so bulky. At the time I liked the Tenere better than the GS. The later felt cumbersome, shifted clunky, clutch is kind of odd (dry clutch) and the torque when you goose the throttle tries to rotate the bike over. I liked it just fine 2-up on the freeway, cruises nice and comfortable with good passing power. The Tenere was smoother and more refined, shifted like butter, but also feels really heavy at slow speed maneuvering for parking. Now having owned the 800XC for the better part of a year and 6K miles, I'd strongly suggest trying the Explorer 1200 if you're looking for the biggest bikes. And if you're going to spend that much money and that big of bike, and you mainly ride on the road, also look at Ducati Multistrada and Moto Guzzi Stelvio. On a budget the new Honda Crosstourer is getting favorable response, and there's the venerable Suzuki V-Strom big and small.
The GS is extremely popular and there is tons of aftermarket support. They hold their value well and are quite dependable, although there are known failures of the final drive, and they can be very expensive to maintain if you rely on the dealer. Older used models come up and can be a good buy on a budget.
The T800 is a different animal really, smooth and agile, I prefer it's suspension over the GS. The 19" front wheel is realy the only similarity, everything else is different. I would encourage you to ride both and decide for yourself. Either will tour on the hiway just fine, and either will venture off on dirt roads just fine as well. Either can be configured easily for luggage.
EDIT: BTW, you didn't mention budget. A T800 and a loaded GSA are like ten grand difference in cost. I've suggested a spread of new bike costs from about 8 grand to over 20.
Man if I hit a rock that hard to loosen a nut that's been tightened to 80 ft lbs. I'm thinking I might have more serious problems.