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Discussion in 'British Beasts: Triumph Tigers' started by ScrambDaddy, Jul 12, 2010.
Iridium's. 18 months and going strong.
Sent from my Tiger 800
Great report and something to consider to those of us who are contemplating the 12K mark service.
Did you notice any carbon build up on the valves? As I looked down through the butterflys when I changed the air filter, I noticed some carbon on the valves. I wonder how much is too much?
I noticed that in the manual as well. I ended up just taking the throttle cable bracket off using a long philips screwdriver. Worked a treat. Just be careful not to drop the screws.
I am back from my trip to Chattanooga with my new 2013 Tiger. The end up knocking another $400 off my bike because they didn't tell me it wasn't fully financed. So I paid $1000 under MSRP for my new/used Tiger. Good to be back in Indianapolis. https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=10151619677877052&id=142396077051&substory_index=0
Here is a pic.
There is some minor accumulation that I'm sure could be cleaned up by using some high quality fuel. For instance, shell nitrogen enriched fuels are pretty reputable for cleaning away deposits over time, whereas "grocery store gas" without a recognized name brand refiner probably contributes to deposits. I should start using shell for a while and see if it gets better over time, but honestly I'm just not worried about it.
Yes...#1 read the instructions. After you're done with that, change the rubber bumpers under the seat.
#2, don't push, tap until you hear the click.
Some final notes about my 12k service -
After going through the bike and doing pretty much everything Triumph recommends, I've come to the conclusion that at least with my usage I could effectively double the mileage interval on most of the recommended items with no ill effects. The items that really needed to be done at the recommended time/mileage on my bike were the air filter, oil & filter, and brake fluid change. The jury's still out on the coolant, which looked fine but I replaced it because it was two years old. The coolant itself is a whole other subject. Triumph recommends an ethylene glycol HOAT coolant. Good luck finding that in the typical auto parts store nowadays. Due to the "coolant confusion" of the '90's and 2000's all of the big name antifreeze peddlers are selling coolant labeled for "all makes, all models, all years" in an effort to capitalize on consumer frustration. Is it really compatible with everything? I don't know, but I bought a jug of Prestone so I suppose I'll find out. It is an ethylene glycol base "extended life" coolant, but has some other chemicals on the label too. Hopefully it will be ok.
The suspension linkage was fine and easily could have made it to the 24k service, but I took it all apart and greased everything anyway as the maintenance schedule indicated. I probably won't touch it again for a very long time.
I will check the valves at 24k again just to see if they've moved at all. If not, I'll probably move to 24k valve check intervals, assuming I would keep the bike long enough to get there.
I haven't priced having the service done at the dealer, but I would imagine if they followed the book and did everything recommended it would be expensive. I took my time today, but when all was said and done had several hours into the job.
Just got back from a 2500km road trip. Highways and back roads. I was happy with my mileage on the first leg of the trip, 55mpg Imperial, but on the way home today I averaged 62mpg on two tanks of gas, again that's Imperial but thats still 52mpg US and bloody amazing. Speeds were a little higher going out around 130-140km/h and I was going slower coming back around 110-120km/h but this was over several 5-7000' mountain passes on twisty mountain roads so I wasn't taking it easy trying to get good mileage either.
Running the latest tune 653, bone stock.
Have anyone installed Universal Mud guard from Touartech? I found OE Triumph one in AU, but shipping is gonna kill the deal.
For what it's worth -- last time I checked the valves on my Tiger (at about 27,000 miles) they were in spec. I'm now at about 39,000 miles and will check them again in the near future, and I expect they'll still be in spec. Bike continues to run great, and I have no doubt it'll continue to for a long time to come.
I'm not so certain whether I like the latest map. I could be imagining it but it seems like it has added some slight surging running at lower revs (<3k rpm) which is annoying in city traffic.
Overall my mileage is very decent. Lifetime mileage over 9852 miles is just a bit over 50mpg (4.7L/100km). Mileage on my 3.5k miles road trip was 53.8mpg (4.37L/100km). Wife's F650GS was ~20% better though ...
Finally got the bike back this weekend. It's good to have that ordeal behind me. Here's a pic of the sonofabitchin' detent wheel that got everything started:
You can see the broken dog, that's what wouldn't let me shift. The broken piece ended up falling into the sump, and the mechanic wasn't able to get it out with a couple oil changes or fishing around with a magnet. He ended up taking the sump off and found it nestled in a corner, so I'm glad he went the extra mile to search for it. Of course, it was another hour's worth of labor, but he said it actually took him the better part of 3 hours to get the sump off and on (first time doing it on a Tiger, apparently). The other piece in the picture--I'm not sure what it's called or what it does exactly, but its part of the assembly as well. You can see a bit of scoring on it, so he went ahead and replaced that too.
The detent wheel itself was only like $25, but when all was said and done with the parts and labor, and including the towing, this little ordeal set me back $530+. I'm glad to have the bike back, but man, this has sucked.
I'd hoped that I'd gotten footage of the actual wreck, but no such luck. I do, however have some anticlimactic footage of rolling down to get to the main FS road. You can see that it wasn't any sort of brutal terrain.
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On the subject of valve checks, what type of feeler gauges are you guys using? I had both a standard flat set and also a set with a 45 degree bend in them but I found both pretty tough to access under the cam lobes. Just wondering if there is something better than what I was using.
FWIW, I checked mine a few thousand miles ago at round 14k miles on they were all in spec.
I tried using both when I did the valves on my wife's Street Triple and same as you had a b!tch of a time on a few of the valves.
Just got my seat on. It takes a major wack with fist to get the rear seat to latch. Called Sargent and suggested they consider a very thin shim under that latch when riveting it to the seat. They say it will loosen up with use. Had a Corbin on a Valkyrie with the same issue. Also have to wack it when turning the key to unlatch.
So other than that, how's the seat? Is it an improvement? It has to be.
I have one that is still new. Tried the placement and if you want to fiddle around a bit, it may work. It wasn't an easy solution for me. I can sell it to you if interested.
The intake valves are easy, but it is indeed tough to get a standard set of feeler gauges (both straight and 45 degree type) in there to check the exhaust valve clearance. I have a set of smaller craftsman feeler gauges that are a bit less than half the width of the standard size, but they are straight. I bent them to work. They were originally intended for setting plug gap, and I didn't care that I sacrificed them for this bike. They worked better, but there's probably not anything that will make it easy.
Why exactly didn't you like it?