Triumph Tiger 800

Discussion in 'British Beasts: Triumph Tigers' started by ScrambDaddy, Jul 12, 2010.

  1. swimmer

    swimmer armchair asshole

    Joined:
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    One fix is simply squirting the stepper motor plunger thing with some lubricant and perhaps cycling the stepper a few times. It would be of interest to most (I think) if you tried this simple fix first so that others would know if they could fix this issue simply in the field.

    There was also an issue with the first map program that came on early bikes that created a stalling issue. Is your bike a 2011 that was not updated? You should rule that out first.
  2. slobinski

    slobinski Inept adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2006
    Oddometer:
    453
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    Powell Butte, Oregon
    Thanks for the reply! Mine's a 2012, tune is 20634 and has been problem-free to now. I'll be out in the garage in the morning with compressed air, silicone spray, and whatever else might work.
  3. DennyMyBoy

    DennyMyBoy Hoping for a Tiger

    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2012
    Oddometer:
    34
    Location:
    New Jersey
    Recently purchased a new Tiger 800XC. Service manager suggested I bring the bike in at 200 miles for a free chain inspection and adjustment. Am at that mileage right now. Trying to decide if it is worth the few hour time commitment, or if there is no need and I should just wait until 500 miles for the break-in service that also includes an oil change.

    It's my first non-shaft bike in 15+ years, so I confess I've forgotten most of what I once knew about frequency of chain adjustment.

    I imagine the owners manual speaks to this also.

    From your experience will the chain need any attention at 200 miles?

    Thanks!
  4. XCRider803

    XCRider803 Loftin' the wheel

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    For the first 200 to 500 miles the chain will stretch the most, after that not much at all if you keep it clean and lubed. Heck, if you're inclined take the freebie and then check again at 5 or 6 hundred, after that it's regular maintenance.
  5. cug

    cug --

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    I have adjusted my chain at around 400 miles once, then not until I mounted a new rear tire at 5,600 miles, haven't had to adjust it since then. I am at ~10,200 miles now. I expect it to go another 8k to 10k miles without moving all too much.

    Meaning: it will stretch a little bit in the beginning when everything settles in. After that it might not stretch at all for most of the life of the chain. Once it starts stretching again at more frequent intervals than ~1000 miles, I'm normally ordering the replacement parts and change chain, sprocket, counter sprocket, chain sliders. I normally (haven't done that on the Tiger) take the rear wheel, rear suspension, and swing arm out at that point and clean and lubricate everything properly, then assemble in pretty much like new condition. The benefit of doing it this way is that if you buy a closed chain with the correct length, you don't have to open it.

    Have done this a few times on my TransAlps in the 90s. Worked like a charm.

    One hint: if you bring it to the dealer for adjustment, check what they have adjusted it to afterwards. Mechanics are human, too, and sometimes they adjust the chain too tight. Make sure it is on the loose end of the recommended values, then everything should be fine for quite a while.
  6. blacktiger

    blacktiger Tigers R great.

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    Maybe your feet don't dangle as much as mine.:lol3
  7. blacktiger

    blacktiger Tigers R great.

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    Certainly...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
  8. ducnut

    ducnut Long timer

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    On a long-swingarm bike, like this one, it's better to be loose than tight. I don't think it's worth your time. Heck, you can do it yourself very easily, if it really needs it.

    I run my 1050 at ~1-3/4". It droops pretty good, but, I've never had an issue.

    I've seen road race bikes with more droop than I run. A crew chief told me they're more concerned about geometry than chain slack. They try to swap sprockets around to try to get the slack tighter, with close to the same ratio, but, sometimes don't have time. So long as it's not jumping teeth, they run it. That same guy helped me setup my Daytona suspension. It was night and day difference, using his advice.
  9. bross

    bross Where we riding to?

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    Mine did it on day two of a very dusty dual sport ride. I just sprayed WD40 into the general area of the stepper motor and the problem was gone for the remainder of the still very dusty four day ride. Knew I'd need a new air filter when I got home so when I had the tank off to replace the filter I cleaned up the stepper motor armature with brake cleaner and applied some dry silicone lube and haven't thought about since.

    Will service it next time I'm in there for the filter, next year. Yes I have a UNI pre-filter installed.
  10. slobinski

    slobinski Inept adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2006
    Oddometer:
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    Powell Butte, Oregon
    I just now got back to working on this. There was surprisingly little dirt/dust on or near the stepper motor, but everything was quite dry. I pushed the rubber boot on the stepper motor up, sprayed it with silicone lubricant, then daubed some silicone dielectric grease on the shaft/armature. Put the rubber boot back in place and squirted the remaining linkage with silicone.

    This seems to have done the trick. I've done the start/stop routine about a dozen times and can see the stepper motor operating now. The bike starts immediately and idles every time.

    Now if I could just coax my balky DealerTool software into working for more than a minute at a time, a throttle balance is next. Thanks for the advice, all.
  11. Bueller

    Bueller Cashin?

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    For those who have thought about handlebar replacement, I just replaced them on my '12 Roadie. Not too bad of a job, just requires a bunch of drilling. Since I run the Triumph accessory heated grips and triumph hand guards I wanted to retain the usage of the threaded inserts in the OEM handlebars, which do a good job of guiding the heated grip wiring as well as provide the outside mount for the hand guards.

    I was looking for the highest rise handlebars I could get, while also hoping to bring the grips inward (more narrow). My hope was to gain a bit more pullback beyond the combination of stock bars and 2" Rox Risers. Ideally, if I could find a really tall set of bars I could eliminate the Rox risers altogether. I bought a set of Fly Racing Aero Taper bars, with the highest rise they offered aside from the "50" bars they sell for adults riding small bikes. Unfortunately I found the rise of these bars to be almost identical to the stock bars, and due to an error in my initial measurements I thought I was buying more narrow bars when in fact they are wider. But they have less upsweep, which I found favorable compared to the stock bars. I confirmed this with a test ride today - the fly bars distribute force across the palm of my hand much more evenly, while the stock bars tend to be more loaded to the outside. Even though I knew I would not be keeping these bars on the bike I decided to sacrifice them to work out the best way to drill and fit everything. Here is a photo of the bare handlebars as I was beginning installation:

    [​IMG]

    Here are the two next to each other (fly handlebars mounted, stock handlebars in front):

    [​IMG]

    Tapping the ends of the bars to fit the stock bar end inserts (by the way, the tap size is 16mm x 2.0 for anyone who is interested. The local NAPA warehouse had it in stock for $10, but I could have purchased for $6 online if I was willing to wait):

    [​IMG]

    Installation completed:

    [​IMG]

    You can see in the photos that I had already started drilling the necessary holes in the new bars. I measured the stock bars to determine where all of the holes should be, and drilled them without fitting everything first. This was the wrong way to determine where the holes should be. For the next set of bars I will first tap the ends of the bars, install the bar inserts, temporarily fit the grips and drill the screw holes for the left grip, and then mark the bottom just inside both grips to drill the heated grip wiring exit holes. Once those are drilled I will fit both switch housings on the bars and mark the position of the switch housing locating holes. This will likely yield much more favorable results, since the first switch housing locating hole I drilled for the left switch housing was a bit off.

    I've already ordered the replacement set of bars. They are also made by Fly Racing, and are the aforementioned "50" bars. These bars have similar upsweep, almost twice as much rise, similar pullback, and are as narrow as the stock bars (I couldn't find any that are more narrow). I believe I will gain about 1.5" more rise compared to using stock bars with Rox Risers. I should have enough wiring room (aside from the left heated grip wiring, which I will have to extend) and clutch cable room, but the front brake line and throttle cables may be questionable. There's nothing wrong with the Rox risers, but since I decided to change bars anyway I figured I'd try to eliminate them in the process.

    I'll post more photos once the next set is installed.
  12. bdolnik

    bdolnik Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    Spacecoaster
    So I got a new to me Tiger 800 XC this weekend, 12k miles and what looks like the original Battlewings. Took it out this morning for a 3 hour ride and really like it. I also have a Honda CRF250L so the difference in power is very pronounced :)

    One problem I quickly ran into though happened on a sandy dirt road, I'm in Florida. I've read this whole thread, and just about every other thread on the Tiger and have never once seen this mentioned, so not sure what the deal is. But, on this dirt road I noticed little bits of sand 'floating' up from under the front of the tank, through the area where the forks come up. At first I though 'oh cool' because it reminded me of one of those popcorn poppers that float the kernels in the air, I could actually see the sand floating in front of me... but it quickly turned to 'oh crap', I'm getting pelted in the face and neck by this stuff!

    It was very uncomfortable, has anyone else experienced this? The bike had a Laminar Lip on it but I removed it right away and it was not present on this trip. It has the touring screen and I have that adjusted all the way forward. The bike also has the front fender extender. I wear an open face helmet so this may have been making things worse, my face and neck got it bad. I can still feel it around my cheeks and ears as I type this!

    [​IMG]
  13. blacktiger

    blacktiger Tigers R great.

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    Try it with a front "Fender Extender". Unfortunately fashion dictates the the front mudguard/fender is too short on most bikes.
  14. bdolnik

    bdolnik Been here awhile

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    Already on there...

    [​IMG]
  15. bross

    bross Where we riding to?

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    Sorry, never had that happen and have spent a fair amount of time on sandy/gravel roads. I was going to suggest the fender extender as well, but you already have one. Maybe tires? I've run the OEM Battlewings and TKC80s but neither have thrown up crap into the cockpit.

    Might just be that road surface as well. My wife and I were just on a dual sport ride this past weekend and spent 4 days riding lots of great forestry/gravel roads. My wife was the first to notice it, she mentioned at one stop that she thought something was wrong with her bike, the front felt so loose, it was wandering all over the place. Bottom line was whatever that county used to surface their gravel roads was like riding on marbles, the bike would wander from side to side, tilting and basically just on the verge of being totally out of control.

    Rode some gravel roads back at home and both bikes are back to normal, sure they still wander around but nothing like we experienced.

    Try some local different roads and see if it repeats. Good luck, and get a full face or dual sport helmet. :freaky
  16. Rob Dirt

    Rob Dirt More or less in line

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    Sand does spray up at around 35mph. I use a tankbag & a full face helmet. It doesn't bother me anymore. You can get goggles & keep your mouth shut. :rofl
  17. blacktiger

    blacktiger Tigers R great.

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    You know, looking at that photo, I wonder if those particles are coming out the front of the guard and catching the oncoming wind which then takes them up and into your face. Maybe we need an upper extender?
    Could be that those particular size of particle is being picked up by the Battlewings. Maybe a change of tyre will solve it.
  18. bdolnik

    bdolnik Been here awhile

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    No it's definitely coming up from under the tank, I can see it coming up out of there. I've got some new tires on order so I'm also hoping that will help, if not I was thinking I could put some kind of flexible material down in there to block it. If that doesn't work I'm not sure what to do, it's kind of a big deal for me and I'm a little disappointed. I did notice someone in the UK forum talking about it also, but didn't see a resolution.
  19. browneye

    browneye PIN IT & BANG GEARS

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    Congrats. 250 to 800...not bad eh?

    I noticed sand particles kicking up in front of the headlight and into my face on one road, at night, when I first got the bike. Certain roads and surface moisture at certain speeds will kick up some sand. Any bike will do this. Speed up or slow down, move to the left or right of the wear spot in the road, drop your shield. Easy-peasy...ride on.
  20. lmychajluk

    lmychajluk Long timer

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    I've never noticed anything kicking up through the forks on my 800, but I do wear a FF helmet (and no tank bag). I also have had the beak installed on my 800 since new (and have had the front fender extender for a while). Are you guys that are getting this effect running w/ the beak?

    Edit - Just saw that bdolnik has the XC, which would obviously have the beak...