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Discussion in 'British Beasts: Triumph Tigers' started by ScrambDaddy, Jul 12, 2010.
On a long-swingarm bike, like this one, it's better to be loose than tight. I don't think it's worth your time. Heck, you can do it yourself very easily, if it really needs it.
I run my 1050 at ~1-3/4". It droops pretty good, but, I've never had an issue.
I've seen road race bikes with more droop than I run. A crew chief told me they're more concerned about geometry than chain slack. They try to swap sprockets around to try to get the slack tighter, with close to the same ratio, but, sometimes don't have time. So long as it's not jumping teeth, they run it. That same guy helped me setup my Daytona suspension. It was night and day difference, using his advice.
Mine did it on day two of a very dusty dual sport ride. I just sprayed WD40 into the general area of the stepper motor and the problem was gone for the remainder of the still very dusty four day ride. Knew I'd need a new air filter when I got home so when I had the tank off to replace the filter I cleaned up the stepper motor armature with brake cleaner and applied some dry silicone lube and haven't thought about since.
Will service it next time I'm in there for the filter, next year. Yes I have a UNI pre-filter installed.
I just now got back to working on this. There was surprisingly little dirt/dust on or near the stepper motor, but everything was quite dry. I pushed the rubber boot on the stepper motor up, sprayed it with silicone lubricant, then daubed some silicone dielectric grease on the shaft/armature. Put the rubber boot back in place and squirted the remaining linkage with silicone.
This seems to have done the trick. I've done the start/stop routine about a dozen times and can see the stepper motor operating now. The bike starts immediately and idles every time.
Now if I could just coax my balky DealerTool software into working for more than a minute at a time, a throttle balance is next. Thanks for the advice, all.
For those who have thought about handlebar replacement, I just replaced them on my '12 Roadie. Not too bad of a job, just requires a bunch of drilling. Since I run the Triumph accessory heated grips and triumph hand guards I wanted to retain the usage of the threaded inserts in the OEM handlebars, which do a good job of guiding the heated grip wiring as well as provide the outside mount for the hand guards.
I was looking for the highest rise handlebars I could get, while also hoping to bring the grips inward (more narrow). My hope was to gain a bit more pullback beyond the combination of stock bars and 2" Rox Risers. Ideally, if I could find a really tall set of bars I could eliminate the Rox risers altogether. I bought a set of Fly Racing Aero Taper bars, with the highest rise they offered aside from the "50" bars they sell for adults riding small bikes. Unfortunately I found the rise of these bars to be almost identical to the stock bars, and due to an error in my initial measurements I thought I was buying more narrow bars when in fact they are wider. But they have less upsweep, which I found favorable compared to the stock bars. I confirmed this with a test ride today - the fly bars distribute force across the palm of my hand much more evenly, while the stock bars tend to be more loaded to the outside. Even though I knew I would not be keeping these bars on the bike I decided to sacrifice them to work out the best way to drill and fit everything. Here is a photo of the bare handlebars as I was beginning installation:
Here are the two next to each other (fly handlebars mounted, stock handlebars in front):
Tapping the ends of the bars to fit the stock bar end inserts (by the way, the tap size is 16mm x 2.0 for anyone who is interested. The local NAPA warehouse had it in stock for $10, but I could have purchased for $6 online if I was willing to wait):
You can see in the photos that I had already started drilling the necessary holes in the new bars. I measured the stock bars to determine where all of the holes should be, and drilled them without fitting everything first. This was the wrong way to determine where the holes should be. For the next set of bars I will first tap the ends of the bars, install the bar inserts, temporarily fit the grips and drill the screw holes for the left grip, and then mark the bottom just inside both grips to drill the heated grip wiring exit holes. Once those are drilled I will fit both switch housings on the bars and mark the position of the switch housing locating holes. This will likely yield much more favorable results, since the first switch housing locating hole I drilled for the left switch housing was a bit off.
I've already ordered the replacement set of bars. They are also made by Fly Racing, and are the aforementioned "50" bars. These bars have similar upsweep, almost twice as much rise, similar pullback, and are as narrow as the stock bars (I couldn't find any that are more narrow). I believe I will gain about 1.5" more rise compared to using stock bars with Rox Risers. I should have enough wiring room (aside from the left heated grip wiring, which I will have to extend) and clutch cable room, but the front brake line and throttle cables may be questionable. There's nothing wrong with the Rox risers, but since I decided to change bars anyway I figured I'd try to eliminate them in the process.
I'll post more photos once the next set is installed.
So I got a new to me Tiger 800 XC this weekend, 12k miles and what looks like the original Battlewings. Took it out this morning for a 3 hour ride and really like it. I also have a Honda CRF250L so the difference in power is very pronounced :)
One problem I quickly ran into though happened on a sandy dirt road, I'm in Florida. I've read this whole thread, and just about every other thread on the Tiger and have never once seen this mentioned, so not sure what the deal is. But, on this dirt road I noticed little bits of sand 'floating' up from under the front of the tank, through the area where the forks come up. At first I though 'oh cool' because it reminded me of one of those popcorn poppers that float the kernels in the air, I could actually see the sand floating in front of me... but it quickly turned to 'oh crap', I'm getting pelted in the face and neck by this stuff!
It was very uncomfortable, has anyone else experienced this? The bike had a Laminar Lip on it but I removed it right away and it was not present on this trip. It has the touring screen and I have that adjusted all the way forward. The bike also has the front fender extender. I wear an open face helmet so this may have been making things worse, my face and neck got it bad. I can still feel it around my cheeks and ears as I type this!
Try it with a front "Fender Extender". Unfortunately fashion dictates the the front mudguard/fender is too short on most bikes.
Already on there...
Sorry, never had that happen and have spent a fair amount of time on sandy/gravel roads. I was going to suggest the fender extender as well, but you already have one. Maybe tires? I've run the OEM Battlewings and TKC80s but neither have thrown up crap into the cockpit.
Might just be that road surface as well. My wife and I were just on a dual sport ride this past weekend and spent 4 days riding lots of great forestry/gravel roads. My wife was the first to notice it, she mentioned at one stop that she thought something was wrong with her bike, the front felt so loose, it was wandering all over the place. Bottom line was whatever that county used to surface their gravel roads was like riding on marbles, the bike would wander from side to side, tilting and basically just on the verge of being totally out of control.
Rode some gravel roads back at home and both bikes are back to normal, sure they still wander around but nothing like we experienced.
Try some local different roads and see if it repeats. Good luck, and get a full face or dual sport helmet.
Sand does spray up at around 35mph. I use a tankbag & a full face helmet. It doesn't bother me anymore. You can get goggles & keep your mouth shut.
You know, looking at that photo, I wonder if those particles are coming out the front of the guard and catching the oncoming wind which then takes them up and into your face. Maybe we need an upper extender?
Could be that those particular size of particle is being picked up by the Battlewings. Maybe a change of tyre will solve it.
No it's definitely coming up from under the tank, I can see it coming up out of there. I've got some new tires on order so I'm also hoping that will help, if not I was thinking I could put some kind of flexible material down in there to block it. If that doesn't work I'm not sure what to do, it's kind of a big deal for me and I'm a little disappointed. I did notice someone in the UK forum talking about it also, but didn't see a resolution.
Congrats. 250 to 800...not bad eh?
I noticed sand particles kicking up in front of the headlight and into my face on one road, at night, when I first got the bike. Certain roads and surface moisture at certain speeds will kick up some sand. Any bike will do this. Speed up or slow down, move to the left or right of the wear spot in the road, drop your shield. Easy-peasy...ride on.
I've never noticed anything kicking up through the forks on my 800, but I do wear a FF helmet (and no tank bag). I also have had the beak installed on my 800 since new (and have had the front fender extender for a while). Are you guys that are getting this effect running w/ the beak?
Edit - Just saw that bdolnik has the XC, which would obviously have the beak...
All my wind issues, on my 1050, come up through that same area. I'd seen where someone with a big DS bike fashioned a blocker out of plastic. My opening is so irregular, compared to the fork sweep, I can't come up with anything. The best I can think of is a piece of rubber roofing, somehow attached, with the forks inserted through slits. There's more turbulence coming up through there, than from the windshield, on my bike.
This problem definitely exists.
Yea, like I said I've read hundreds (maybe thousands) of posts on the Tiger and not seen any mention of it (other than recently hunting up that post on the UK forums). That's why I was so surprised by it. I know guys are saying get a full face helmet and all but I don't think that would solve my problem, because it was VERY apparent a LOT of sand was coming up... I could readily see the sand floating out of that area between the tank and forks, so even with a full face ones neck would get blasted by it as mine did. The original battlewings are almost bald so I'm hoping that might be it. I'll just have to stay on the road until my new tires get here.
I was thinking some type of gasket material would do the trick?
My thought - take a square, cut out 2 holes for the forks, then cut a straight line from each hole to the edge. On either side of the cuts, punch a hole. This will let you wiggle it down in there w/o taking the forks apart. Lay it down in there, zip tie the 2 cuts back together, then punch a couple more holes and zip tie the whole thing down to the frame just below the triple clamp so it doesn't fly up.
I just looked at the pic, not sure but it seems if you have fine sand and that screen on, you might actually be sucking it up if you're going fast enough and there's the right combination of light sand and speed and tyre kicking it up...
I would try angling the screen down and/or removing it if you're going into an extra gritty area like a beach etc., based on your story and that pic.
I have the stock screen with the adjuster kit but I rarely go on sand and when I do it's more of a temporary thing, like 100 metres of it till I get to the other side type of thing. I do go pretty fast but I'm no racer, just fast enough so the front stays light, which is an ever increasing speed but not "wind tunnel" speed.
I can say I've had my tiger all over all sorts of stuff and never, ever had shit blow up to my face from the front, which makes me think, "what's different" on your bike and that mega screen sticks out for me.
Anyhow, my $.02.
Thanks I was thinking something similar, these are great ideas can't thank you guys enough for chiming in.
That thing on top of the shield is a Laminar Lip I guess. It was not on at the time I experienced the sand, it was one of the first things I took off :) Other than that, it's just the standard touring screen. I also think it's some kind of suction or venturi type affect, because the sand seems to just come up and hover in that area before being blown into my face and chest.
Also, the road I was on was not our typical 'sand trail' here in Florida. It wasn't deep sand at all, just a dirt road with a slightly damp, fine sand over the top of it. I've raced motocross, ridden a ton of smaller dual sports, and don't mind getting dirty, but this was not like that. I was riding by myself, not following anyone... and it was like being sandblasted. This is the helmet I'm using and even after putting down the large clear face shield it was still very uncomfortable with the fine sand hitting my neck and chin.
I get sand blast no matter what tires I'm using. Obviously, knobbies are worse. If you hate tankbags, then put a rag there & experiment. It's not a big deal because you should protect your face anyway. My cousin wore an open face helmet. Now he has titanium eyeball sockets & looks like a Neanderthal