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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by zerohype, Feb 2, 2008.
Another problem is that I'm pretty sure your TT is AC only, as far as I know LEDs need DC to work.
I run my LED aux lights off the 6v DC circuit from the battery.
A 3W 12v LED still pokes out a few lumens on 6v...
My 250 was 6v stock, but the later year 350s were 12v. I went to the local wreckers and got a 12v stator from a TT350 and installed it.
I had also thought about getting another 6v coil and wiring it in series with the coil already on my bike. It wouldn't be able to put out as much power as the proper 12v coils I got, but it would be enough to run lights, especially if they were LEDs.
Yes, LEDs do work quite a bit better on DC. They'll probably flicker on AC.
It's not too difficult to get a 12v regulator/rectifier and wire it up so you have a DC circuit. I changed my headlight/taillight over to DC, as well as replacing the taillight with an LED unit (the stock rubber mount fell apart on me during a trip I did).
So if i was to replace only the 6v stator to one that was 12v, and then find a way to wire it so it comes out DC to the lights. It should work? My Dad was saying that he thought the regulator is what decided the voltage or something. BTW, thank you for the info! Already more help then TONS of google searching!!
EDIT: I re-read that post a couple time Anklyne. I think i pretty much fully understand what your saying. But does this set-up require a battery? Like this, stator > regulator > battery > lights. Or can you just cut the battery out of the equation?
Hey guys a quick question. I opened up my bike to examine the air filter today and whadda know? NO AIR FILTER! Literally nothing lol.(good thing the engine was just rebuilt...) Now i hit a dilemma, I have seen two different things, one looks like this:
and the other looks like this:
Is there really a difference between them? One type better or worse? Sorry for being such an idiot when it comes to bikes.
K.&N for street. or with a skin.
Not a big fan of K&N. I have a UNI on mine but if you have no filter at all and go with the UNI you'll need the inner cage and possibly the holder, (parts 11 & 12).
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I went with K&N already :\ looked easy to wash haha. It did have the cage its just the filter on it had the middle manually ripped :huh AND for a quick update on my progress i pulled out the tail light which was not functioning and it said it was 12v. Now this leaves me to wonder whether i actually have a 12v bike! Or if that is why it wasn't working.. When my bike is up and running i am going to take a voltmeter to it and find out. Could save me a lot of time and money if its 12v
Tradeex56, beautiful set-up, i stare into those blinkers and dream.
I stuck a 12v rear bulb in mine as the 6v one kept blowing...
Having a back firing problem, someone told me that the way the bike is set-up its impossible to put it together with the wrong timing. Was he right? Cause if its not timing i'm assuming the carburetor is the only problem, he mentioned it wasn't tuned.
I just replaced the cam chain and it'd be quite easy to get it all wrong...
These bikes don't need a battery to run (the ignition all runs on its own AC circuit), but if you want your lights to work when the bike isn't running or want the lights to flicker less, then a battery is a good idea.
"stator > regulator > battery > lights" as you said.
Stock, my bike had a separate 6v regulator and rectifier, but what you'll find with 12v is that most/all bikes have a combined regulator/rectifier. My bike currently has the same reg/rec used on an XT600. Cost me AU$70 or something.
As for the 12v globe in your taillight, my bike came with a 12v globe in the headlight AND taillight
6v globes are a bit of a pain to get a hold of (where I live at least).
Well crap... Should i take it to a shop and ask them to check the timing then? It seems to run okay, but it backfires and stutters is this normal for a cold engine? Also, when you put on some throttle its not very responsive then suddenly the engine starts speeding up and slowing down even if you haven't adjusted the throttle. Btw this is all in neutral. I still haven't gotten to ride this motorcycle(or any) cause i have been advised its not smart to try and learn on it.
Edit: Okay that was stupid it obviously doesn't run okay or i would be riding it(stupid me)... Basically it sounds like it misfires, but in between misfires it sounds good. Besides throttle seeming sorta un-responsive. Although if it was a timing issue wouldn't it misfire in the same pattern not randomly like now? Also see gas dripping out the bottom of my bike, not much though(not sure where from either). I am left with the conclusion that my carbs are letting in to much gas and some is flooding out. Would explain why when i give throttle it misfires more because its flooding? I'm sure i'm wrong about everything. But you guys don't seem to mind helping me. Thank you!
Purrs at a nice consistent idle.
I've got the engine running - nice crackle to the Staintune exhaust.
The wiring setup is interesting to say the least.
There's 3 main output leads off the magneto: brown runs the ignition (unregulated 12+voltsAC), yellow into yellow/red runs the headlight and tailight (regulated up to 13.8volts AC) and white which runs brake lights, indicators and horn.
This white lead shows an unregulated 18 - 24 volts AC at ~ 3000 - 4000 rpm and is only switched onto the voltage regulator when the head / tail light circuit is off due to the light switch setup. This sometimes "voltage-tamed" white lead is connected to a basic diode - white in, red out. This appears to be a rough as guts way to produce something that passes for 6 volt DC by only sending part of one side of the AC wave. It's no wonder the little 6V batteries and light bulbs have a high failure rate given the variation in voltage on the input side of the diode - at best the diode only cuts the input by half.
The white and yellow/red won't share the std voltage regulator at the same time ie don't like to be joined so I'm gonna add another basic 12V AC regulator to the white lead circuit. At this stage I'm not convinced that a rectifier or 12V DC is necessary
Can anyone tell me how 12V DC indicator sender units and 12V DC horns go on AC - or will it be "try a little, die a little" as usual
HereToBuy.....I had an '86 TT350 a long time ago, good dependable bike. The carbs can be a problem, pull them for a cleaning, check the float levels, check the pilots for clogging, might need new float needles and seats.
HTB, I have a few TT350's and the most common cause of the problem you have described is the rubber intake stubs that the carby's attach to. If you have a close look at them and see the rubber bonding is coming away from the inner alloy stub what you get is massive air leaks where you least want them, also make sure the O-ring's between the cylinder head and intake stubs are in place and in good condition. Of course all the timing needs to be correct as well.
New stubs aren't cheap but are available genuine and are handed,i.e left and right specific, just look at all this closely and it all comes together eventually. They are a sweet motor when tuned right and like to rev, I luv em.
Sometimes the bonding problem can seem like something else altogether and can be hard to see and it certainly doesn't hurt to pull the carbs and give the stubs a good tweak,push ,pull & shove as they can be 90% ok yet that 10% is the culprit.
hope this is useful info for you and good luck.
Nicked some suspension bearings from NordieBro's parts bike and used the best bits to rebuild mine today.
Main slop seems to be in either the bushings/needles/bolts in the dogbone.
The dogbone centres are only at about 50mm, so any slop multiplies out significantly at the wheel.
<img width=480 src=http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/TT350/20130209%20Suspension%20Bearings/slides/20130209-130415.jpg>
<img width=640 src=http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/TT350/20130209%20Suspension%20Bearings/slides/20130209-130408.jpg>
<img width=640 src=http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/TT350/20130209%20Suspension%20Bearings/slides/20130209-131000.jpg>
<img width=480 src=http://sports.nelson.geek.nz/motorsport/mybikes/TT350/20130209%20Suspension%20Bearings/slides/20130209-135741.jpg>
So this wear in the dog bone bearings means there is a loose up and down movement to the back wheel ?
Is it possible or worthwhile to measure the bolt / shaft dimensions that the needle rollers run on before you take the plunge and replace the bearings ? The shaft / bolt is more likely to be worn or locally marked perhaps ?