Tubeless Conversion?

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by rpilottx, Apr 13, 2006.

  1. bikyto

    bikyto Dans le doute...gaz!

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    gonna try tkc tomorrow and will report in a week!
  2. Chuckracer

    Chuckracer Jerkus Maximus

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    Shinko 705's at the moment. :eek1:lol3
  3. renogeorge

    renogeorge Let's ride!!

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    After reading the whole thread, I am still unclear as to the 21" front on a 990 Adventure. Is there concern with sealing the inner spoke area and going tubeless? Can someone explain the tire "rollover" issue? The "safety strip"?

    I have had very good luck with the Tubliss system on my dirt bikes. In addition to sealing the spoke area, the Tubliss (inflated to 120 psi) acts as a continuous rim lock, keeping the tire in place even when the main air chamber is down to zero.

    So, has anyone tried or considered the Tubliss setup for a 21" front on a big adventure bike? I realize that the Tubliss is not DOT certified but I am speculating that this is more administrative/certification cost prohibitive than real world.

    Thanks for all the great discussion!!
  4. Dogtown

    Dogtown Been here awhile

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    As I understand tubeliss not getting dot certified is more then admin. Not sure I would ride the 990 at 120mph with tubliss in place. Awesome answer for motox and trail riding on smaller bikes though!

    With regards to sealing the 990 rims. I have been told The front 21 inch does not have the tire to rim locking like the rear. It doesn't have the inner lip to hold the tire in place? It doesn't really need to be tubeless either because most punctures happen on the rear wheel and the front doesn't create the heat that the rear does, that can cause problems with tubes.

    Seal the rear! You'll dig it!!
    Cheers!
  5. slackmeyer

    slackmeyer Don't mean sheeit. .

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    Yeah, you've got it: the rear has a safety bead, which helps keep the tire on the rim in case of deflation, the front doesn't. Of course, if a tube suddenly deflates, it doesn't do much to hold the tire on the rim either. Tubliss seems like it should do some good holding the tire on the rim, as long as their setup is made for the width of the ADV front rim.

    And yeah, try the sealed rear wheel- it really is a great feeling to put in a tire plug, air up, and ride off, rather than replacing a tube.
  6. pdxmotorhead

    pdxmotorhead Long timer

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    Just sent them a note,,, they don't list a unit for a rim as wide as the 950... But it cant hurt to ask...

    Dave
  7. JTXT

    JTXT Adventurer

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    Check out Outex for tubeliss, you can find them on Ebay
  8. Shuffler

    Shuffler Hommes Grande

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    Yes, I have been running Tubliss on the front of my 950 with no issues at all. Woody's superlaced Excel rim and a TKC80.

    Bashed it through the rocks, high speed on the slab ... no issues other than the tire has a slow leak ... I probably need to deflate and re-seat the bead.

    CJRacer has also been running Tubliss on his 950, which is what sold me.

    My rear is a Woody's superlaced Excel rim, tubeless.
  9. sailah

    sailah Lampin' it

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    I know this is an old thread but it seems to have the most info...

    Appears there are two schools of though on the rim sealing. Spot filling each spoke using ca and goop per woody, or covering the spoke head with a vinyl sticker and filling in the valley with silicone/5200.

    I like the spot filling method as it allows for leaks to be found and repaired quickly. But doesn't the superglue and goop screw up the nipple and make adjusting the spoke impossible? Or is it fine because the wheel should be tried and perfect and the ca acts like a thread locker?

    The valley filling method with the stickers would be much more difficult to spot repair, and I've worked with 5200 on boats before it is basically permanent:lol3. With proper prep and the amount of surface this method employs it would seem difficult to have leaks if done right. Plus the spokes can be tweaked. But if done wrong I can imagine you have a genuine shit show on your hands.

    Thoughts? Lacing up a 17/19 setup for my dirt ninja and want this set to be tubeless.

    Thanks
  10. Georgios

    Georgios Been here awhile

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    I´ve used this method and you´re right about the thread locker. Spokes are only give problems when they loosens, they can´t become tighter by itself.

    All the years, I never had problems with the spokes or wheels using this method. Good luck and let us know about your experiences.
  11. Georgios

    Georgios Been here awhile

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    I´ve used this method and you´re right about the thread locker. Spokes will only give problems when they loosens, they can´t become tighter by itself.

    All the years, I never had problems with the spokes or wheels using this method. Good luck and let us know about your experiences.
  12. 35xj

    35xj Long timer

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    did my rear wheel over the last few days. 3 passes with GOOP. mounted up my heidenau yesterday, out 41 PSI in it Dipped it in a bucket.....




    NO LEAKS!:clap

    debating doing the front now?
  13. sailah

    sailah Lampin' it

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    Cool, I'm going to try the spot method if it doesn't work I'll try something else.

    I like woodys method of the superglue to keep the goop from pushing out.
  14. renogeorge

    renogeorge Let's ride!!

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    I used the Goop process on the rear. Worked great but I did have a slow leak on my trip to Alaska--nothing a topping off every couple of days wouldn't fix. But when I got home and tanked the wheel I noticed small leaks on 3 or 4 spokes. All of these leaks were THROUGH the spoke nipple NOT AROUND the outside. I removed the Goop from the leakers, unscrewed the nipple, cleaned and soaked the spoke end and nipple in metal etching liquid, reassembled with Goop on the threads and "sealing surface" of the nipple and re-Gooped the inside area. Works fine now with no leaks.

    My bike is an '07 with lots on grunge on the spokes and wheels. Seems like getting the surfaces clean is the key. Getting Goop down in the threaded inside area of the spoke nipple is important to prevent the type of leaks I had. Thin coats of Goop and let it dry several days if possible.

    FWIW
  15. 35xj

    35xj Long timer

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    been debating putting some slime inside the wheel now, just in case...
  16. renogeorge

    renogeorge Let's ride!!

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    I can tell you what doesn't work!! For my first attempt, I Gooped, then wrapped the spoke area in Gorilla tape. When I had slow leaks on the road, I slimed it. When I got back from Alaska and pulled the tire off, the Gorilla tape had disintegrated into mushy strips which were rolling around loose in the tire. So there is some kind of chemical reaction there. I suspect the problem was between the Gorilla tape and the Slime--not the Goop. But, you might want to try a bench experiment with Slime on cured Goop.....
  17. Chuckracer

    Chuckracer Jerkus Maximus

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    Don't do it. If it's not leaking...it can't get any better than that! You'll hate yourself come tire change time... :deal
  18. 35xj

    35xj Long timer

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    still holding air. got about 100 miles on it now.:clap

    what's the consensus on doing the front?
  19. Georgios

    Georgios Been here awhile

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    Go ahead! But work carefully.
  20. Chuckracer

    Chuckracer Jerkus Maximus

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    The problem with the front is the lack of safety bead on the stock 21" rim. If it leaks and looses too much pressure it could spit the bead.

    On the other hand...I had a set of 19/17 wheels for my '04 Adventure that HAD the safety bead on the front wheel, had a front tire loose air, spit the bead and put me on my head, so...:dunno