TuneECU for 990 - got tunes?

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by jetpoweredmonkey, Oct 31, 2010.

  1. EOD3MC

    EOD3MC What will break next

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    Buddy at work just showed me that App, he's been using it to monitor his gas mileage..Was thinking it would be a great way to "see" how the various maps actually affect the bike...

    Hoping to try his set up with my cables next week...keeping my fingers crossed :D
  2. Duhfactor

    Duhfactor Adventurer

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    O.K.,

    I decided to take the stock akro map that came on the bike, and change the secondary throttle blades according to what I did on the shootis map. Basically, at 1200 RPM I started with 20% opening, and by 1600 RPM opened up to 25%, then gradually opened them up as RPM and throttle position increased. I copied that onto a standard AKRO map (07' bike) and loaded er' up. The mid range power came back, and the bottom end was noticeably smoother than the stock secondary throttle blade mapping on the stock AKRO map. I left the F-L switch stock, made sure the 02 sensors were off, and SAS off. This was much better overall. The fun factor was back, and no deceleration popping. The idle is smoother for some reason, and generally built power more linearly. (If that's a word.....) I did notice more airbox noise from 3500-4800 RPM between 3-15% throttle opening, sounding like when one opens up the throttle on a carbed motor that doesn't have enough accelerator pump fuel, kind of like a faint "bog" that cleaned up as RPM increased, but worsened with wider throttle opening at the same RPM, although there was still acceleration. I'm thinking about closing down the secondary throttles through this range a little to see if things richen up a bit (increased port velocity), or maybe add a little fuel. I'm trying to see how much tuning can be accomplished through the secondary throttles first, then will go to changing fuel delivery numbers later.....

    When comparing the euro map (stock, non-akro) to the US AKRO map, the euro was significantly leaner as expected. I compared reducing fuel on all maps by 1% (F1, F2, L1, L2) on the US AKRO map to the stock euro map, and there was still more fuel in the AKRO map compared to stock. So, I made up a new map, simply reducing the fuel in the US AKRO map by 1% across all cells, all tables. This doesn't sound like it would change much, but it actually does reduce fuel a fair bit, but is still more than stock mapping. It got late, so I didn't have a chance to try it, but will do so this week, and report back. I know one rider used a "half akro" map, fueling somewhere between the stock and AKRO settings, and am not sure how close this new map and his would compare. We'll see.... To be continued....
  3. Dusty

    Dusty Long timer

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    Now thats gettin after it...

    This is the difference in percent between the stock 07 and the Arko maps.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  4. Duhfactor

    Duhfactor Adventurer

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    We're making some headway here. So, I highlighted the fuel tables on the modified akro map, and decreased fuel by 1%, everywhere. This included the L tables. Interestingly, the fuel tables after decreasing them, were only modestly more than the stock map when I compared them. I haven't played with it enough to see if the maps Dusty was working with are the same that I'm working with, as it seems if I decreased the akro map by 2-3% (not 5%), the numbers would be leaner than the stock map. Also, this map has the modified secondary throttles, opening at 20% at 1450 RPM, and increasing gradually with rpm and throttle position. Anyhow, I loaded up the new map tonight, did the 15 min idle, shut her down for a bit, and went for a ride.

    So far, this map has been the best for my bike. The low end is a great deal smoother, and runs up cleanly with the exception of 3500-4200 RPM up to 10% throttle opening. I went into a parking lot and did some tight turns without the clutch at ultra slow speeds, and was able to control the bike pretty well. I had no stalling, and could lug it a bit, with controlled acceleration. I tried to chop the throttle a few times, and it was pretty controllable. I actually liked it pretty well, except for the weak 3500-4200 range. I came out of a tight turn, and rolled the throttle open wide, and broke the rear tire loose in a decent power slide until I pucker factored.....:muutt After changing my pants, I started to smile again.....I'm cautiously optimistic.......

    I think I'll start working on the 3500-4200 range next.....
  5. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob

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    For the 3500-4000 range, look at the ignition maps. Huge ignition retard during that point.
  6. pdxthmper

    pdxthmper Been here awhile

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    Duhfacator I did a similar thing, i compared the stock 07 and arkra fuel maps as percents of the stock map. My mpg was shit (under 30) with the arka map, so increase the stock map 1-3% in differnent parts of the fuel map. I left the L maps the same, but I am wondering now if I should be making more changes there, as I think I do more riding at low TPS values, but I haven't marked my grip yet.

    In comparing the maps I was suprised to see the +7-13% over stock in some parts, where as most of the table was a +5% increase.

    Zubber, to adjust the advance are you doing that in the trim tab?
  7. Duhfactor

    Duhfactor Adventurer

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    Did you end up advancing the ignition through that range on your map? Did that improve the "lag" you were experiencing? Thanks for the heads up, I remember reading that now somewhere in the previous posts, but had forgotten it.... Man there's a lot of stuff in these pages to remember.

  8. Duhfactor

    Duhfactor Adventurer

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    I'm assuming your running akro's? Did you notice a significant decrease in power going with your modified stock map as opposed to the AKRO map? I haven't checked my milage yet, I'm just trying to get the thing smooth and linear first so I have something to comfortably ride with, then I'm hoping to fine tune from there. I'm trying to leave the F-L switch the same as stock, but making proportinal changes to the L-maps that I do with the F maps. So far, it has become much more smooth, but I'm sure not yet where it could be. I'd almost like to swap maps with you or someone to have a little more objective comparison, knowing that bikes are different of course....

    I'm wondering, would you mind sharing your map?


  9. pdxthmper

    pdxthmper Been here awhile

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    nope don't mind sharing at all, I only have 30 miles on it so I don't know how its doing on the mpg front, power seemed good from the seat of the pants when I got on it a bit. Send me a PM if you what to look at what I am currently running. I have a 2:1 akro wo the insert and stock air box. I have made no changes to the L or I tables, secondaries are at 25% min.
  10. Duhfactor

    Duhfactor Adventurer

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    Do you have a "dead spot" around 3500-4000 RPM that you've noticed?

  11. pdxthmper

    pdxthmper Been here awhile

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    I cannot confirm or deny it at this point not enough miles or time on it, I do remember looking at the tack at low TPS around 3K and thinking it might not be as smooth as it was with the 07 akro map.
  12. tahoeacr

    tahoeacr Long timer

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    I wouldn't:nono.
  13. Duhfactor

    Duhfactor Adventurer

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    O.K. my friend, I know you have experience with this, help a brother out? Help me understand.....:ear

  14. Duhfactor

    Duhfactor Adventurer

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    Hey Zuber,

    I must be an idiot, as I look at the ignition maps from 3500-4000 RPM from 1-10% throttle opening, I'm seeing a spike in the number, which I thought was degrees of advance. In other words, I see an advance right where I think the weak spot is. I'm looking at the stock and akra map from the Tune ECU site, is that what maps your referring to?



  15. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob

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    <Edited, previous was from memory>
    Hey PDX, just back from work and bar. I'm looking at the stock map and also the akro map. KTM put in a large Ign advance right at 8% throttle and between 2500-4500 rpm, the worst is the 3500 curve, which is very close to 55 mph in 6th gear. I think this was for emissions.

    As you open the throttle, it advances the IGN to 8% throttle - the throttle is overly sensitive.
    Then it retards until 15% throttle - the throttle seems dead until you get past this spot.

    I've smoothed out some of the 07-08 990's by cutting off this ign peak (retarding) right at 8% and the curves between 2500-4000. It's usually safe to retard. It may help to advance it just above 15% throttle, but don't go very far to be safe.

    For an education, compare the ign maps between the stock 09-10 Adv and PowerTrippsWings maps. His are very smooth and work.
  16. cyborg

    cyborg Potius Sero Quam Numquam

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    What is he using the Torque app on, a car? I searched the web a lot and I haven't read of anyone getting it to work on a 990 yet. Unknown protocol. Power-Tripp discussed it awhile back in this thread, but never did say if it works or not.

    Torque connects just fine to the ELM327 and scans and tries all the protocols it has installed and the 990 ECU just won't talk to it, so far.
  17. EOD3MC

    EOD3MC What will break next

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    Yep...his car
    I got the same issue, blue tooth connects, but no comms
  18. Duhfactor

    Duhfactor Adventurer

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    O.K. folks, seat of the pants update here......

    I loaded up the new map to the bike, and had a chance to ride it today, in the freaking freezing cold......

    The map I tried this time was the modified AKRO map, leaned everywhere 1% in all fuel maps. I also opened the secondaries 20% from 1450 RPM up, increasing with throttle position and RPM. Also, I increased fuel by 1% from 0-10% TP, and 3500-4500 RPM to try and fix the lag in that RPM.

    This map was worse. The lag was still there, but wider in RPM range, and the herky jerky was worse at low RPM. I noticed right away. I tried the tight circles at low RPM in left and right directions, rolling on and off the throttle like I did with the last map (no richening of the 3500 RPM range). This map was more difficult to control the bike, and it was more wild every where. I didn't like it at all.

    So, I loaded up the last one I tried, the one where I didn't richen up the 3500-4000 RPM range. It was back to being much smoother, and a great deal better on tight circles, and low throttle control. I know we're not talking about a carbed bike, but if I compared it to carb tuning, I'd say the bike had a bog, as if it's rich between 3500-4200 RPM. I'm trying to decide if I retard the timing like others have done, or try leaning that section just a little to see if it gets better, since adding fuel made it worse. I'm still saving for a wideband and data logger, but no joy yet.

    Thoughts anyone?
  19. felixblack1

    felixblack1 Burgers

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    I followed Zuber's advice and retarded the timing at 8% and slightly bumped timing up at 15% (I also returned my 2nd throttle mapping back to stock). Did the 15min idle let bike cool down and took it for a ride. It was back to the stock jerkiness if not worse. Shut it off for 15min and considered returning the secondary throttles to min 10% but I was too impatient and took it for a ride. This time it ran a lot smoother :clap Thanks for the tip Zuber!! Did you only smooth out the peak at 8% throttle or on either side where necessary?

    For those keen to give it a go look at the igntion tables in graphic mode and right click on 8% and you will see the peak betwen 2500-4500rpm
  20. tilting40s

    tilting40s Adventurer

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    Hey guys I just purchased a 2007 990 Adventure, and it run like a bat outta hell, but (I think) it runs hot- 4 bars on the freeway and the fan kicked on after only 10mins in stop and go 60 degree out. The guy who does the TuneECU in San Rafael re mapped the bike for the prior owner and it's the dyno print out on the front page.

    http://www.factorypro.com/prod_pages/prodKTM99,990Adventurer.html

    I was wondering if running the bike less lean would be a solution to cool the temp or if this is completely normal operation for the bike. I've done some poking around and seems that people have operating temps all over the board.

    To be honest I am really not concerned with peak horsepower or torques just a bike that will run for a long time. Thoughts, advice, tips?:ear