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Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by jetpoweredmonkey, Oct 31, 2010.
Oh how I love to fix it good! Real good.....
You CAN alter the map with your phone if you use a USB cable instead of using bluetooth.
I'm not really interested in altering the maps. More of throttle adjustment fault checks and TPS adjustment is my current situation. But the program/app only is asking for bluetooth connection when I plug in and try to connect to the ECU. Any ideas?
Do you have the bluetooth plug in adapter / transmitter for the bike?
I was trying to get away from buying another piece of gear, but since no solution I have one on the way from Amazon. I was thinking the cable should work, but no....... Actually in the tuneecu instructions the bluetooth is an alternate after the cable. But the app won't recognize it. So bluetooth it is.
Not all Bluetooth OBDii plugs work. I have three different ebay kinds and non of them worked. But they work for my car.
Cable is easy to use and give you more control too. You will need a regular female usb to micro usb cable. It's also known at OTG cable.
I have the cable, it is not recognized. Each time I touch Connect the app starts looking for bluetooth connections.
My bike has gotten a bit herky jerky at low speeds. At first I thought my chain must be getting kinked and I was feeling that, but now I’m wondering if I’m running too lean while shunting along in rush hour traffic.
Can I use Tune ECU to richen up the mixture at idle / low rpms? I bought the cables, but haven’t had the courage to plug it in. I’m shockingly bad with computers considering I use one every day...
The bike has akra exhaust, stock airbox and no canister, if that matters in any way.
Please also me know if you think I’m barking up the wrong tree.
If the bike was running fine in the past with the same map, mufflers, airbox,... I wouldn't touch the map.
Your injectors may not be seeing the fuel pressure they used to see. That translates to less fuel passing through them >> leaner running bike.
If you have access to a fuel pressure tester try that. You should see 51psi +/-2psi. There is a procedure described in the service manual for this.
Dirty fuel filters or as I discovered recently bad pressure regulator oring or a dying fuel pump can result in lower fuel pressure.
Don't mess with the map if it was working fine in the past.
Thanks for your reply — sounds like advice well given and taken.
My fuel filters are about 5k miles old and I’ve been using gurgltech’’s (sp?) pre filters. Maybe this winter I’ll pull it out and replace the pump (as I have with a spare I picked up in the flea market a while back).
I think the PO has loaded the Akrapovik Euro map on it. I just don’t recall it being so jerky previously....maybe I mis-measured and have the chain too tight after repairing a flat.
Maybe throttle cable adjustment? If you do this you must also use tuneecu to reset the stepper motors. There is a section for throttle cable adjustment.
You didn't say what year you have. Tight valves will change the tuning and sync of the throttle bodies. Also, the throttle position sensor needs an adjustment at about 9k miles at the first valve adjust. I've seen the TPS cause a lot of low speed running issues.
I have a 2008. I had a great local dealer — a very small, long-time KTM dealer that seems to be antithetical to all of the horror stories I've heard -- do the valves at the last major service interval. At this time I was also experiencing an erratic / high idle. While we both suspected the TPS, the dealer tracked it down to the stepper motor and replaced that (with a used one he sourced for me!) and adjusted the TPS. The valves were all in spec -- intake @ .125 / exit @ .250 -- and the leak down was 4%.
I have recently done an oil change myself and have put on about 5k total miles since the major service interval. I recall him saying these bikes were pretty stable in that regard...
I bring up the chain / final drive as it does seem kinda rhythmic. And, again, it is only when I'm almost idling along / feathering the clutch in Boston's rush hour traffic. It seems to disappear once throttle is applied, but I guess that could be fueling too.
Appreciate the help and don't mean to derail the thread.
Throttle body sync helps too.