TuneECU for 990 - got tunes?

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by jetpoweredmonkey, Oct 31, 2010.

  1. Thinkpad

    Thinkpad Adventurer

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    If anyone will go for newer ECU, I can bypass immo on those so no more problems with that. Lifetime warranty :)
  2. RoundOz

    RoundOz Plenty of seasoning

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    I am trying to get my head around the TB balance protocol. Maybe someone with some FI education or practical experience can answer this.
    I believe it’s a known fact that the vacuum sensors can be inaccurate, and some have swapped the sensors to prove it. I am currently plumbing in some lines so I can cross check the TuneEcu readings with a manometer.
    My understanding is that idle and just off-idle are critical tuning areas for TB balance for smooth low speed tractability, especially with a 200kg 110hp machine. It makes total sense to me to use an infallible Tygon tubing manometer rather than relying on the electronics to be perfect.
    But...if I find that the vacuum sensors are a little bit off and adjust the balance to correct this, how does the ecu feel about the situation, about always seeing the cylinders’ vacuums a little off from reality? Will it compensate fueling to try to correct this?
    Obviously replacing the sensors to make them match would be the ideal, but I’m sure they are produced and tested to fall within an error range, nothing in analog electronics is perfect, so how much is too much off?
    I have access to a super-accurate digital pressure and vacuum calibrator to be able to test sensors side by side, but I don’t have a box full of sensors to pair-up.
    Ideas?
  3. blakken

    blakken dirt napper

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    I eas struggle to balance with tunecu...i gave upp and used a houst with oil in and balanced thar way...works like a charm and it runs smother now!

    Tuneecu upp date a little slow when i adjusted it took a couple sec to get value on screen


    Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk
  4. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob

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    I've found that the throttle bodies are usually very close in balance, IF the valves are adjusted and the Throttle Position Sensor is set correctly. The electronic vacuum gauge is the most accurate and you can rev' the motor without sucking oil/mercury into the engine.
  5. Themastermike

    Themastermike Think you caught me in a coma

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    Old school dial gauges, purr like a kitten

    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
    blakken likes this.
  6. 1coolbanana

    1coolbanana Long timer

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    Ive used a carb mate (electronic) for years, most recently on 950's and just to check the accuracy and the factory sensors on 990's and have found them very accurate.
    Or at least they have been on with the last two 990 Ive had.
    Still, gauges are the best all round for this.
  7. RoundOz

    RoundOz Plenty of seasoning

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    I have only needed to adjust balance one time but I have never tried swapping sensors to check the readings in TuneEcu.

    The base reason for all this questioning of balance is a vibration I have noticed in the last year or so...checking off all the boxes I can (chain and sprockets, wheels, tires etc etc) has led me to wonder if my injectors are partially blocked. I found my first pleated fuel filter partly disintegrated, with a gap between the paper and the metal cap and small pieces of filter “assembly glue” floating around inside.

    I figured if I get my injectors cleaned and calibrated I will want to check my TB balance afterwards.

    BTW...It seems to me that the only way to get the injectors out is to separate the two TB’s. Does anyone know this for sure?
  8. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob

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    On the MAP sensors: check the voltage on all three with the engine not running. So, the sensors are all seeing atmos pressure. The two sensors used on the intake work better if their voltages are within a few tenths of a volt. You can swap with the sensor near the headlight if that one has a closer voltage. It's not a huge help, the ECU will learn to offset and match the voltages during that 15 min idle 'initialization'. This voltage difference is why using TuneECU to balance the throttle bodies doesn't work too well.

    Fuel Injectors: there is a 'fuel rail' that holds each injector down. Just pull this off and you can pull each injector out of the throttle body. You can clean these injectors yourself. Use a 9v battery to power them and open the pintle. Attach an air gun and blow carb cleaner backwards through the injector. I attach the blower with a rubber hose. Do not remove the small filters on the injectors, they are not available anywhere that I can find. The filters are like Honda car filters, but shorter. Injectors can't be calibrated, only flow checked against each other. If they don't match, you get another one and check it too. No adjustments are available for these.

    I have two MAP sensors and a TPS sensor that I need to sell. Dealer cost.
    1coolbanana and Salzig like this.
  9. Parx400

    Parx400 Long timer

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    I saw your PM. Never found the reason. I pulled my injectors and had RC engineering clean them. One was really bad and drooling at idle. When I got them back the bike ran much better off idle. Vibration was unchanged.
  10. RoundOz

    RoundOz Plenty of seasoning

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    On the sensors - will check next chance I get.

    Fuel rail - I will have to look at it again, as it seemed like there wasn’t enough clearance to raise the rail before hitting the TB joining bracket. It didn’t make sense at the time that it would be built this way, so it must have been me not trying hard enough.

    Injector “calibration” - I did actually mean flow testing...in my line of work testing and calibration are often used interchangeably. The testing side of the equation is the reason I would send them away to be cleaned rather than doing it myself. It doesn’t cost much and I would otherwise wonder if I cleaned them well enough to balance the flow readings.

    All great info. Thank you sir.

  11. JSYADV

    JSYADV "Stuck on a Rock off the coast of France"

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    Hopefully this is the correct place to post this question?

    I am currently using the PowerTrip Akra map and have found it is by far the best map of many others that I have tried for my set up, which is a 2010 ADV, stock airbox/filter, with dual Wings exhaust running the shorter baffle. I suspect my bike will be running a little rich across the rpm range, although perhaps not as rich as if I were running the KTM Akra map which I have also tried?

    My understanding is the PowerTrip's improvements have been made by retarding the ignition in key places and my question is that I am trying to understand why when comparing this map against the stock KTM Akra map on TuneECU, I can see no changes/differences in the values in either of the two ignition maps, yet in my case still seems to offer a smoother throttle action in the usual 2800-3500 rpm range, when compare to the KTM Akra map?

    If the I1 and I2 maps are no different, then where are these improvements being made? Can it solely be in the F/L switch?

    I ask these questions as since my bike is, likely as not, running a little rich, I wanted to try and replicate the benefits I have found with the PowerTrip map in the stock 2011 R map and need advice on where to start?

    Any ideas/input? By the way I am no expert on TuneECU so go gentle on me!

    Dave
  12. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob

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    The PowerTripp, Akro and most EU maps use the same ignition curves. Compare this with the stock USA map, then you'll see the huge difference. The USA ignition is set for emissions over good running.

    PowerTripp (and Akro) maps are very rich. The stock map is also rich, running 13:1 on most bikes.

    About the F/L switch - Stock maps have the bike running mostly on the L (vacuum) maps at small throttle and rpms, then running on a combination of L (vacuum) and F (throttle) at large throttle and rpms. This is because the F (throttle) maps are very coarse at low rpm, with very little sensitivity. The vacuum sensors are very sensitive at low rpm, but are not sensitive at big throttle settings. The F/L switch mixes which sensors work the best at different times. I've found changing the F/L value doesn't help, but only masks other problems. Small edits at 3500 and 4000 rpm may fix some flat spots found here.

    The PowerTripp map has a very low F/L setting of 10%. He has it biased to the F (fuel) maps at all rpm. He also has much richer settings for L and F maps. Combined with the retarded ignition I maps, you'll get much richer mixtures. Running rich is easier to get good running, but it will create a over-sensitive throttle at low rpm and poor mileage.

    Edit- changed wording on F/L to be clear.
  13. Parx400

    Parx400 Long timer

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    FL switch question. I noticed that all the nels maps I have seen have the FL switch set to 0. on the three maps I have from inmates here made by nels the vacum tables are all the same. He seems to only be tuning based on the F maps.
  14. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob

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    In the past, I've understood this was a 'blending' Percentage value not a Throttle Position. But, this being a Throttle Position % makes sense on most of the maps I've seen. At what Throttle Position does it transition from L to F. I know it is not a hard-fast transition and it always looks to both inputs.

    Having it set to 0% is not good. You would loose some fine throttle settings at low rpm and you'd loose the over-running enrichment to prevent back fire.

    I edited the previous post to be more clear...
  15. Parx400

    Parx400 Long timer

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    On the map I’m running the first 4 calls of the FL switch are now 15 each. At zero the bike would not idle on cold mornings. I’m guessing the ecu was not getting enough information that would normally come from the vacuum sensors.
  16. bdking

    bdking Adventurer

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    Hi, I've searched this thread & the forum but haven't found an answer to this, hoping there's some wisdom here.

    I have a 990 (transplanted into a 950, long story) that seems to have a bad (eBay) ECU. When 2WheelDynoworks tuned it the secondary butterflies wouldn't operate so he suggested a bad trace on the ECU. Swapping ECUs with my other 990 to test I saw it also solved the problem of the dash always reporting an overheating condition. So I need to replace the eBay ECU.

    Rather than roll the dice on eBay again I ordered a new ECU from the dealer, giving them the SN that had been on the old ECU since that ran with the bike well (once the butterflies were removed.) When I try to connect the new ECU to TuneECU I get an "Unknown Map Type" warning and it won't read. If I try flashing the new ECU with my good map I get a "This Map is not Compatible with This ECU" warning.

    Is this a known issue? Has anyone tried flashing an ECU bought new from KTM before?
  17. Zuber

    Zuber Zoob

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    Give this a try. In TuneECU, open a map off your computer that is the same type or generation. Like an 07-08 ADV or an 09-13 ADV. Then try connecting to your ECU.

    TuneECU can be use with many brands and types of bikes. It kind of needs a 'heads up' of what you are dealing with.
  18. bdking

    bdking Adventurer

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    Yeah, tried that, also restarting with no map loaded. There's something weird about these new ECUs.
  19. Sumi

    Sumi Long timer

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    Hi! Is there a way to connect the windows pc version of tuneecu over bluetooth? I've now tried it with two v1.5 dongles, but looks like it will only do BT with android?!