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Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by cjracer, Nov 6, 2010.
god that is so sexy
That would make the kit highly portable, because hoses can be routed around any convoluted frame.
- sprocket (sourced from the output shaft) drives hydraulic pump,
- hydraulic hoses go to hydraulic motor,
- hydraulic motor drives steering head one-way clutch,
- one-way clutch drives front gears
That in fact places us right at the meeting point of the Yamaha technology and the Christini way of doing things.
Thanks for adding the videos and keeping this going while I was gone.
I've gone round and round on ideas. I'm not a hydraulic wiz, so I tried to stick w/ what I knew I could fix or beef up if it broke. One other reason I wanted to stick w/ the "Original" idea of the chains and shafts was to give the parts a good work-out. Chains and sprockets also allows me to change my front drive % pretty easily. Currently I'm at 60% front drive. So 1 full rotation of the rear tire is 6/10 up front. The front wheel only drives when the rear wheel slips. I have built it so I can test 60%, 70%, 80% by swapping chains and sprockets. I've only tested the 60% so far, the higher you go the sooner the front wheel starts to pull.
When I talk to riders about this system on smaller bikes (530-250) everyone seems to think that the system is week and will break at the first bump. If I could get a system to last on the 950, my thoughts were that should help convince people it does work. Now that I have a working TEST bike, I plan to keep tweaking and modifying things. Testing new ideas as time and funds allow.
That's how Ohlins did it - http://www.ohlins.com/Checkpoint-Ohlins/2WD---The-Complete-Story/
In Jan we took off for a few weeks to go some place warm and let the brain thaw out.
Relaxing the brain before the build up starts again. Sometimes I get focused too much that my brain locks out new ideas. Stepping back for a while and revisiting a problem and can shed new light on the subject.
When a kit is purchased through Christini for a bike, you send in your frame and front forks to be modified. They rebuild your frame and powder coat it, sending you back a frame, forks, gas tank everything needed to rebuild your bike. Or you could buy a NEW bike already built for a pretty good discount on the kit.
I didn't have that option so......
Let the grinding begin.
Remove the steering lock stop.
Remove the fairing mount bracket.
Now, how to cut the head tube off? Keeping the head angle and geometry is pretty important. This isn't OCC. I need to this bike to handle hard off road use and abuse, endure long distance touring fully loaded, and be safe at speed.
Not just tooling around city streets from bar to bar.
I started out making a fixture to hold the frame so I could align it for cutting in the CNC.
Wow. Thank you for sharing this!
Great Thread, Awesome Project, but where is that Rigid light picture you promised?
I forgot the camera on the ride.
I'll head out tonight. Should be overcast and dark tonight.
I start with a fixture plate mounted in the CNC.
Pick up the center of the plate w/ a Dial Indicator to find a zero point. I use CAD to draw up a bolt pattern to use toe clamps to hold the frame down. The ADV frames weigh about 24lb, and I can only hold onto the head. My machine is not large enough to secure the entire frame inside the machine. Fingers crossed......hope this works.
The bearings (top and bottom) are 2 differant sizes on the ADV, so I turned a couple adaptors that I can swap out when I flip the frame over. These adaptors fit into the base plate and locate the head tube so it won't move when cutting it.
After I'm sure the frame is stable enough to take a light cut, I start to align the frame better. I remove the frame and pick up my bottom locator adaptor. That is my Zero point for the cut. Install the frame again and start to install clamps...... doing this by my self, I should build a ROBOT helper as I've run out of hands so many times.
With the bottom zero point established, I need to get the top bearing journal aligned to make the cut straight and not change the head angle. I indicate the front of the frame to make sure it is perpendicular.
And tram the bearing race to confirm I have the frame as perfect as I can get it forward and back, and left to right. I was with in .005-.010", and that could have been an out of roundness condition of the race, pressed into the tube. I feel that's good enough for this application. (That's about 2-3x the thickness of a human hair)
I made some small adjuster screws that could be tweaked against the frame to get the frame in alignment. Tedious process, but now is not the time to cut corners.
So now that I feel happy about holding onto the frame, how do you go about cutting it....??
The frame is almost 9" long and I haven't purchased the LASER cutting attachment yet.
I measure the Outside Diameter (OD) of the new Christini Head Tube. I find a BI-Metal Hole saw that has almost the same OD.
But anyone that has used a hole saw knows that it works off a pilot hole that is drilled into the material. I don't have that.
As I take a break and look out the window, I see I have some spys trying to see what's up.
Cool dude. Keep it coming!
this is an INCREDIBLY interesting thread, thanks for sharing.
I know it's far too late for this project, but anyone who needs a fairly rigid method of putting an arbor on a hole saw for use in a mill would do well to look here: http://www.paragonmachineworks.com/storename/paragonmachineworks/ViewDept-261336.aspx Probably cheaper than making your own.
This is better than porn!
Starrett "Oops" hole saw arbor?
Great stuff for us MechGeeks! Can't wait for the next installment...
Thanks for the link. Might be handy in the future....
BTW, how much would a TI 950 AWD ADV frame run? Cool site.
Yes, I did figure something out. The 1/4' drive that comes in the holes saw kits wasn't going to be rigid enough for this application. I also wanted something that would handle the pounding and vibrations an interrupted cut would produce.
The standard arbors I had found only had a jam nut, nothing to stop the hole saw from spinning if it got stuck or wedged while in the cut. There is a lot of surface area on this one. Looks like I'll need to make my own.
I found a chunk of round stock and got to work on the lathe. Then into the mill. Just enough room on the side of the frame setup to widdle this out.
It have 2 dowel pins that keep the hole saw from spinning and a small set screw give me a low profile inside. This would give me the longest depth of cut before the inside of the saw crashed into anything on it's way down.
1" shank to fit in my BT40 tool holder.
And now I have a rigid tool that's ready for some work.
On the left is the wimpy setup that's used in a Hand drill.
On the right is the new "Uber" Cutter. This is a large Hole Saw.