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Discussion in 'Shiny Things' started by bmwktmbill, Dec 9, 2012.
Originally from the Stony Plain area.
Hey Nophix, that would be great.
Ghosty , you foamed it good, thanks for the pics.
I figured the spray stuff wasn't meant for exterior but something will work, I can just imagine that spray foam with a liquid neoprene driveway sealer over the top of it.
Oh boy, double coverage, double ugly.
Spray foam isn't bad. I have helped repair cars with it in the past. When the quarter is rotted out, use duct tape to fill the hole and pull the remaining metal back into place. fill the inside with spray foam. Remove duct tape and apply Bondo, mix up a gallon at a time is fine. Carve the body lines back in with a belt sander. Finish sand and paint. Ran that way for years. Only problem is when someone hits that quarter panel and the bondo chips off. Good thing is when you run that much it just comes off in one big chunk. Makes fixing it again easy.
A buddy of mine bought an older 442 Oldsmobile and when he removed the old vinyl roof discovered that the vinyl was holding the rusted and rotting roof together. He took down the headliner filled the roof with spray foam and then bondo'd and re-painted it, looked great and appeared solid when done.
Loving this RV build, good stuff!
If you do the foam thing, get the applicator with the screw-in cans. It will pay for itself in just a few cans from not wasting so much foam and the ability of turning down the volume....! You'll like it so much that you will fill in the walls, that will hold it together real good.
I thought you told me it was rust free because it was from down south?
Patched holes all day with blue board, plugged the skylights as well for now. 15 degrees outside today and no sun. Inside van temps in the 40's with a milk house electric heater so working inside is tolerable.
Still searching for the roofing solution, check out these photos.
Guess I better slow down and mount the tail lights before I insulate the back wall on the inside, That will make the wiring cleaner and partially buried behind the insulation. I hope this goes easily, wiring can be a brain teaser.
After that the walls will get insulation and the driver's side sidewall needs a frame for hanging the counter top/food prep/cooking/ stove, sink area.
Starting to think about lights and wood heater again.
This...the Hunter model, seems to be the best stove of the bunch, a little more but it will handle 18" wood...
Hoping one of these(or two) will light things up inside.
No way around heat and solar panels and LED lights that I can find short of kerosene.
Money's gotta drop, thinking about hitting a local gas station wearing a ski mask and holding my power drill...all the money or I will vaporize you.
Video games might give me the edge .
I posted a pic of the Harbor Freight wood stove in the Hino thread, it may be a frugal option for you. I'm hoping some other inmates may have some experience with its quality - so far only one post and not so positive.
They're on sale this weekend for (I think) $120.
Deeds, not sure what the Hino thread is?
My brain is frozen.
Anyone got a wiring diagram for a '74 Minnie Winnie?
Easy day tomorrow...INSIDE.
Here you are.
Don't defrost with microwave. Terrible side effects...
Here you go:
...forgot the Scarab beetles...all better now.
Two days at the tail lights, not hard days, one with the flu so bad my neck wouldn't move without a pill. Easy to sit on the computer and plot to soak in the...
Found a new stove idea, made about 175 miles from my house...
Check it out, air tight for a slower burn but takes 18 inch wood. It's probably too much but it might find other uses like in the sauna or wall tent when not needed in the RV.
More wiring chaos, longer leads needed now for the final hook up.
Still no blinkers but that problem is up the line, the fixtures check out OK.
The flasher might be toast? So far I can't find it???
Jeep clutch linkage broke...again.
Got a new piece coming from...
Can you believe they have a new one for me. My Jeep truck is over 50 years old.
At least he had a good excuse. Back in high school I read a Camaro build up in a hot rod magazine and one of the things they did was remove the drip rails. I knew I had rust under the vinyl on my Chevelle, so I pulled the vinyl cover off and also saw rust along one of the drip rails, so I took my 6" 4500 rpm grinder to both sides to clean it up like the Camaro I saw. After I was done, I asked myself "what's that line?" Apparenly the drip rail on the Camaro is not structural. On a '72 Chevelle, it's also the pinch weld that holds the roof on. The "line" was the gap between the no longer fully attached roof and the rest of the car. I had to take it to a welder to get the roof reattached. :eek1
Fuckin' dumbass kid.
The spray foams are a closed cell type foam and most are compatible with polyester fiberglass resins. Spray and shape then cover with glass Of course you will need to paint the glass one way or another
Looking at that 40-year-old wiring, I'd urge you to pull new. It looks like the insulation is cracked in places, and the scotchlocks aren't doing you any favors, either. And once you refinish the inside, you're not going to want to tear back into it to find the source of your eventual taillight problems. If you don't have the scratch for all the fancy wire colors, buy a spool of black wire and a selection of colored electrical tape, then mark the wires at the ends and every few feet in between with colored tape to keep them straight.
Ho Ho Ho!!!
The crew is on strike...
Does anyone see the taillights?
Cold tonight, maybe -20degree F.
I hear you, unfortunately some of this stuff is going to wait for better weather either here or out west. The supply wiring runs under the vehicle.
For the fixtures, I soldered all the connections, etc and checked continuity, everything will be acessable for repair but ....
We don't travel at night, we don't travel at night, we don't travel at night.
As you suggest a new loom may need to be pulled and new fixtures purchased.