Two Beards, Two Beemers: A Canadian Trip Too Short

Discussion in 'Epic Rides' started by HBN, Sep 18, 2012.

  1. LadyDraco

    LadyDraco KillerSmileIHazIt !!

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    HBN ... You have a look on your face ...
    Like please take the F^#&ing phot this crap is getting heavy ...:rofl
    #81
  2. Tex76

    Tex76 Motersykle Advntyers

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    Keep em coming, looks like a great time (except that last day. 800 miles? no thanks :kat
    #82
  3. DCrider

    DCrider Live from THE Hill

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    damn all the way to NS to audition for Capital One credit card commercial? :wink:

    #83
  4. HBN

    HBN lostwithmike.com

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    That would probably make more sense to a viking than me :dunno I'll crawl back under my rock now
    #84
  5. HBN

    HBN lostwithmike.com

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    I woke at 5:15 and quickly packed up my gear and tent. I didn't want the owners of the shop or some passing police cruiser to give me any hassle. My first stop was the Tim Hortons on the highway for a good cup of coffee and some wifi.

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    After demolishing my breakfast and seeing the first light on the eastern horizon, I decided it was finally time to go explore Newfoundland :ricky

    Riding north from Port Aux Basques, the Gulf of St. Lawrence is on my left and the Table Mountains on my right. These twin peaks really stood out but with the low light my picture came out a bit weak.
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    The highway was desolate and I passed a car every 5 minutes or so. The overnight rain had left a heavy fog which slowly burned off where the sunlight could penetrate. The highway wound gently along the floor of the Codroy Valley offering beautiful vistas on my right and left.
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    I stopped to smell some flowers and have a snack.
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    I also wandered through a gate in the moose fence. I think this sign has been here a while.
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    Speaking of which...this was advertised as the "Largest Moose in Newfoundland". The rock scat underneath was a nice touch!
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    I hit a big rainstorm which was heavy but predictably short. After riding out the other side of it, I cruised through the twisty valleys outside Corner Brook with ski resorts on the hillside and a wide long open highway along the lake for miles.

    After Deer Lake, I turned onto...
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    This carried me down to Gros Morne National Park.
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    I stopped for a map at the information booth and chatted with the prettiest booth girl I've ever seen. She may have even been on par with Beard's customs agent :dunno She suggested I ride down toward the tablelands and Bonne Bay.

    This is the view of Bonne Bay looking east.
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    The town of Bonne Bay is very colorful, no doubt to add some color to their long and dreary winters. The Old Loft Restaurant, I found out later from some other travellers, serves a delicious moose pie.
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    The Bonne Bay Light stands in slight disrepair overlooking the bay.
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    After making two short loops through town, I worked my way up toward the tablelands. The terrain here looks like a desert on account of the Peridodite thought to originate at the earth's mantle and driven up by a plate collision millions of years ago.
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    This area was absolutely spectacular. The waterfalls cascading off the tablelands and down into the valley reminded me of Norway or Iceland.
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    It's ME on Trout River Pond. The view here is just extraordinary in person!
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    This fisherman looked like he was enjoying the day.
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    I was getting hungry so decided the village of Trout River on this desolate coast would be a great spot for some seafood.
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    I stopped in and inquired about the Salt Cod. I only wanted a lb or so and she wouldn't split the whole cod. Makes perfectly good sense and I didn't need 4 or 5 lbs of cod stinking up my tank bag :nono
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    I stopped at the only restaurant on Main St. Went in and noticed that a fish sandwich was $12. :eek1 Oh Hell No!
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    From here I rode up the hill where I came across a small take-out restaurant likely frequented by the locals. This is more my pace.[​IMG]

    Cod Sandwich
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    This goat had slipped free from the electric wires. Nobody seemed to care - the goat, the restaurant owner or myself. He wasn't going very far anyway.
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    I downed the burger, left a tip and set back across the tablelands toward Bonne Bay. Along the way I noticed this stream resotration in progress. It sure is a little different than we do it in the states :deal
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    I worked my way along the East Arm and stopped for a photo oportunity of Gros Morne's Peak and the surrounding scenery.
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    After taking a family's portrait down by the water, I made my way over to Rocky Harbor, the tourist town for Gros Morne with many hotels, restaurants and shops.
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    This is the view at the end of the road looking south along the rugged coastline.
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    The Lobster Cove Head Light. I regret not getting off the bike and walking around to take a better shot looking back on Gros Morne and Rocky Harbour but the place was mobbed with tourists and I didn't feel like taking my gear off again.
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    This is my only shot of the famous Western Brook Pond. This spectacular fjord was formed by retreating glaciers and exhibits 2000 ft sheer walls and igneous rock. The Long Range Mountains pictured here and throughout this day are the northernmost remnant of the Appalachian Mountains I call home.
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    I saw a sign for "Cow Head". Now that sounds interesting so I worked my way over to Summer Cow Head and went for a hike to the old lighthouse.
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    My bike is down there behind my finger.
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    The trail was spectacularly lush. I don't think I even edited this photo:
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    View from up top!
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    How's that for some contrast?
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    I should note that the trees here were stunted. So much so that they were as tall as I was!
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    The wood piles are growing longer and longer as I travel farther north.
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    Newfie Flag!
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    I continue north along the coast enjoying the smell of the saltwater and looking for any oddities along the way.
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    Say? What is that in the center of the photo?
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    Someone had a bad day! Story HERE
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    All sorts of bits and pieces of the Atlantic Endeavour were littered about the beach.
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    I continued along The Viking Trail till I saw a sign for The Arches.
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    It gets very windy here along the Straight of St. Lawrence as I will find out first hand later in the trip.

    Evidence:
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    When I saw my name on the map I had to make a detour :clap
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    I saw this outside Port Saunders. They must be desperate!?
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    The small town didn't have much to offer but I continued down to Port Aux Choix for a stroll along the Phillips Garden Trail.
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    I returned to Port Saunders for some water, a bottle of whisky, a danish ice beer and some chocolate then returned to this small jut of land behind an abandoned motel and beside an ATV track between the two small towns. This should do for a camping spot tonight.

    Port Saunders is seen off in the distance:
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    I don't know what happened to all the trees here. It didn't look like fire but it could have just been from a hard freeze or extreme winds?
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    A father and daughter on a quad rolled past and didn't notice me. An hour later as the sun was setting, they came back the other direction and immediately saw me. I waved and they waved back - both not sure about me. I bet it'd take a while for some police to show up anyway and I wasn't hasslin' nobody.

    I made a small fire with the driftwood about in an established fire ring beside a rotten outhouse.
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    The sun sank low and disappeared from sight while I sipped my whisky and enjoyed a full pipe. This was a solid day of riding and some amazing scenery like none I have ever seen before. I rested soundly and enjoyed the sound of the waves hitting the shore throughout the night.
    #85
  6. C-Stain

    C-Stain Accredited Nincompoop

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    Who'd a thunk it. Vikings work pink 'stich. :lol3

    What? Your last name is Peninsula? :rofl


    Great RR HBN! Screw the beer and trivia - keep it coming!
    #86
  7. DCrider

    DCrider Live from THE Hill

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    some very nice pics gents, mike what are you using for the HDR (at least I think its HDR?)
    #87
  8. HBN

    HBN lostwithmike.com

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    Thanks! Don't worry, Beard met me there for a minute as well. Onward to the RR! :pynd
    #88
  9. Dr. Beard

    Dr. Beard Cenosillicaphobiac

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    I'm tempted to keep making posts everyday, even thought I'm home and bored at work at in this point in the narrative. :lol3
    #89
  10. HBN

    HBN lostwithmike.com

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    I was up around 6 with the sun and quickly packed everything, thought about making a cup of coffee but decided to get moving. My hands were wet with dew from rolling the tent which made them a bit chilly inside my gloves for the first hour.

    The scattered showers overnight left the humidity very high but temps in the upper 40's. It was a bit cool but smelled like fresh pine.
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    Just before hitting St. Barbe, a calf and a cow ran across the road in front of me. I scrambled to take out my camera while downshifting and steering away. This is the only photo that almost came off before they ran into the woods.

    (See on right)
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    Reminder to stay alert. This is the reason I haven't been riding at night!:eek1

    Aw I guess I'll stop in St. Barbe to check out the ferry schedule to Labrador and get a big breakfast. I checked out the schedule for tomorrow then walked next door to the motel restaurant for a cup of coffee and some eggs.

    This mural was painted on the walls inside. I was the only diner.
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    Man this was SOOOOO good.
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    I charged some batteries while I ate, paid the bill and saddled up for the ride to the tip. My destination this morning was L'Anse Aux Meadows at the northern tip of Newfoundland. In two days I would have gone from the Northern tip of Nova Scotia to that of Newfoundland. That's fun.

    Just before some long stretches of straight highway across the Taiga, I had a GSA tail. :freaky He followed me all the way to L'Anse Aux Meadows.
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    The first thing you see when parking is this sculpture high on the hill overlooking the visitor center.
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    UNESCO World Heritage Site as evidenced by the UN flag.
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    I attended the informational film in the dark movie theater. After spending a week on the bike, sitting in a dark theater and watching something on a screen felt incredibly foreign. I don't watch much TV at home anyway but it felt quite novel to go from riding and camping all the time to watching a film. I enjoyed it.

    The artifacts found at the site are on display behind glass throughout the visitor center. This was one of the cloak pins discovered. It is 1000 years old!
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    This butternut was also found preserved beneath the peat soil.
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    Walking the path down to the recreated settlement, a small cold creek flows through the low vegetation.
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    The remnants of an old workshop.
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    The recreated structure was a fraction of the size of the largest multi-room structure from 1000 years ago. It was still quite large and the construction impressive. I'd love to build a sod house one day.
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    Reinactors inside were chock full of information regarding Norse life and the settlement.
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    I had to take advantage of the opportunity to try on some berserking gear.
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    This replica dingy displayed the original methods of construction using wool, tar and various other naturally available materials.
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    A view looking back.
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    I chatted with some French Canadian adventurers from Quebec currently serving in the Army in New Brunswick. One was riding a 990 and the other a KLR. They suggested I check out Burnt Cape and some ghost town that direction. I was very vague on the destinations but figured I had a whole day to explore and find a place to camp.
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    The Dark Tickle is a nationally recognized jam, tea and herbal shop available throughout the province. I thought the name was a bit bizarre and sexual until I learned what a "Tickle" was.

    The definitive answer comes from the Newfoundland English Dictionary. The word Tickle was first recorded in 1770.
    "A narrow salt-water strait, as in an entrance to a harbour or between islands or other land masses, often difficult or treacherous to navigate because of narrowness, tides, etc; a 'settlement' adjoining such a passage;"

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    From here I rode over to Cape Onion as far as I could get without falling into the water.
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    The cliff is very steep :deal
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    After taking a break and trying to push the bike backward uphill on moss, berries and spongy ground, I set off for Burnt Cape Ecological Preserve on the suggestion from the French Canadians. On the way back toward Burnt Cape I came across a couple walking in the road that suddenly stopped. I look around trying to figure out why they quit walking and notice a figure 100 meters down the roadway. It is the biggest male moose I have ever seen standing broadside to the roadway. He stood there for the better part of a minute while I chatted with the locals about this being the best traffic jam ever. Eventually he lumbered off into the bush and I carried on down the road.

    Burnt Cape is a large area of exposed limestone with a naturally harsh climate that permits the growth of rare dwarf flora often found in arctic and alpine areas.

    The road here was awesome hardpack limestone or just barren boulders curving along for a mile or two uphill. It was fun, a couple puddles, not very technical but fast and open with water on all sides.
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    These carins must have been 6 feet tall
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    Can you find the GS?
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    After munching down a chocolate bar, I turned around and set out for Cape Norman ligthhouse outside Cook's Harbor. The limestone towers further down the coast were interesting and home to many saltwater creatures.
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    This is the only photo I have of the tall stacks of drying wood I have seen throughout the trip. The farther north I travel, the shorter these stacks become.
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    The road to Ship Harbor is wide fast dirt and I make it to the dead end quickly, wave at some locals and head back toward Cook's Harbor. On my right are large open expanses of limestone, sand and low growing vegetation covered with vehicle tracks in all directions. It looks like a bloke on a dirtbike could have hours of fun out here.

    I notice a dashed (gravel) road on my map leading to a dead end about 15 or 20k west. This must be that ghost town place the dudes told me about.
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    Sleds like this are all over the place along the roadside for hauling cut firewood.
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    While taking the above photo I hear a motorcycle, look up, and my two friends are turning right where I am. Hey dudes let's ride some dirt!
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    I took off in front and very quickly left them far far behind. Travelling at 60-70mph on good gravel is comfortable for me depending on conditions and I was having a blast. I'd stop and wait for them every few kilometers and snap a few moving shots as they approached. One time when I stopped, I heard motors coming down the road in front of me. A few folks two up on ATV's approached and stopped. The bearded and tough old man looked me over "You're not from here are you? Are you lost?" "I'm working on it!" I replied just as my newfound friends came roaring down the road and stopped in a cloud of dust. We chatted about the town up ahead and found that the bridge was out and the road past there is in terrible shape. Thanks!

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    Just before the ghost town we came across a very old shipwreck rusting away in the salt air.
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    WE MATCH!
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    After riding around here we take the ATV path through a few big puddles on back to the main road. It shortly ends at a washed out bridge support.
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    I bet we can get across that! I will check...
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    Knee deep and slick rocks. This is a no-go.
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    The moose don't seem to mind.
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    The view of Big Brook from the vantage of an old dory weathering away.
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    My friends decided to return back to their campsite in St. Barbe while I chose to scope out this town and stay here for the night.
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    Much of the belongings and items were still around the town and the small buildings dotting the open landscape.
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    This was the view inside the old schoolhouse
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    An old swingset sits idle, the children long gone.
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    I stank, therefore I bathe.
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    After bathing, I set up my tent in the foundation basement of an old home that had been removed. I hoped this would keep the strong winds down around the tent. Just as I was pulling out my sleeping bag, I heard an ATV approach. I stood up above the wall and waved as they road past. They pointed and drove straight down the grassy hill to where I was setting up camp. I talked to the weathered and somewhat suspicious gentleman whose wife kept her full face helmet on the entire conversation. He remembered when the town was still there not long ago, he had many friends who lived here, who moved on and knew people who had lived here until their death or they were moved out by the government. The foundation I was camped in was his friend's old house. It was transported down the road to Cook's Harbor years ago. He motioned toward a well kept shack near the road and said he knew the guy who owned it and visited rarely. I was welcome to set up my tent in the soft grass and use his fire ring and firewood. "Nobody would sleep in a basement!" he said as he keyed the starter and roared up the hill to meet his waiting friends.

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    My view:
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    Dude where's my roof!?
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    The reflection of the sunlight in these old windows and the warmth of the sun/salt beaten shack demanded a photo. I just wish I could have captured it better.
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    Unfortunate Cove
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    After the sun set, I made a small fire and burned all the semi-charred wood scattered about. Others had camped here before as evidenced by the makeshift fire rings on nearly everyside of a large clump of trees. Clearly this windbreak was used in various seasons as the wind shifted and more fire pits were needed.

    I smoked a pipe and looked up at the stars. The surf crashed 20 feet away, the wind howled and I couldn't have been happier. I sipped some whisky then doused the fire and fell deeply asleep.
    #90
  11. HBN

    HBN lostwithmike.com

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    Thanks! I am using an HDR setting on my Lumix for some but mostly post processing them in Picasa. It is free and doesn't have the functionality of some of the more advanced editing suites that Beard uses but it gets the basic job done for my tweaking. No awards but easy to use for some fun pics here and there.
    #91
  12. LadyDraco

    LadyDraco KillerSmileIHazIt !!

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    Great pic as always buddy...

    The sculptures remind me of the ones I saw in ND...:clap
    #92
  13. Elkhound

    Elkhound Hunting Dog

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    #93
  14. HBN

    HBN lostwithmike.com

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    I just downloaded all the videos from my camera and will be posting them in a few past entries as well as all future entries moving forward.
    #94
  15. XC Rider

    XC Rider Motorcycle Vagabond

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    Oh No!!! Danger Will Robinson, DANGER!!!


    Your ride report has fallen back to Page 3!!:lol3

    But seriously, I'm jones'in for another update! :deal

    Missed that you're weren't part of things for the last update there Beard; it's always interesting to see how two people have a different view of how a day went. Having done a lot of solo travel, and a fair amount of travel with others, I know the pros & cons of both, but you guys at least had the #1 rule of travelling with another rider covered, which is to make sure that your riding companion is someone you mesh well with.
    #95
  16. damurph

    damurph Cold Adventurer

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    Your photos are fabulous and i appreciate the view from a CFA(come from away)s perspective. We have it very good for riding here.
    And for camping. There was no hassle from the police because it is not illegal to camp in Newfoundland. You can pitch a tent on any public land. Sometimes fires are prohibited but the signage on the highways let you know this. I keep seeing RRs of people hiding to camp and find it amusing.
    #96
  17. HBN

    HBN lostwithmike.com

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    I know I know!

    RR with vids will resume shortly...when I get back from Canada again!
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    #97
  18. XC Rider

    XC Rider Motorcycle Vagabond

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    Heheheheh...I know, I just enjoy....:amazon :D


    Nice shot of Niagara btw. :thumb
    #98
  19. HBN

    HBN lostwithmike.com

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    The wind howled through the night but I was relatively comfortable. I woke once or twice as passing showers sounded on the tent roof but slept well. When I awoke, it was a grey morning where the sun was obscured by clouds and the sea breeze blew strong off the water coating everything in a film of saltwater. I packed all my personal gear into the bike and began making a cup of coffee followed by some oatmeal. I glanced down toward the town and was surprised to see a cow and calf munching their way through town.
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    They heard me and sauntered off into the bush. Shortly thereafter I witnessed a rainbow as the sun peeked through the clouds. What a great way to start my 26th birthday.
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    I cleaned my cooking utensils and donned my riding gear. I took in my surroundings and then set back on the gravel road toward the paved highway. I didn't get very far until I had my first mishap. The locking mechanism on my right side case had worked loose and I hit one pothole too many. Off she goes!
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    This was only the first of many "Where the fuck did my Jesse bag go" moments :norton

    I made it to the main road and then worked back toward the Viking Trail. I had fuel in the tank but just enough to get my across the Taiga to the first small town of Eddie's Cove. Cool. I struggle the 40 - 50 miles toward Eddie's cove fighting a headwind across the open expanse of taiga. The rain picks up as well turning a cold and grumpy situation worse. The only vegetation are small pine trees dotting the low moss and ground heaves. The fuel light comes on. I keep on riding.

    I pull into Eddie's Cove and quickly realize I have already exited Eddie's Cove and there were no gas stations to be found. Shit. Onward to the next town. I'm over 210 miles now on one tank and have no idea how much farther I can go until empty. The following two towns either have no gas or a closed gas station.

    It is Sunday in Canada and you know what that means? Nothing is open.
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    I have to resort to filling up with my extra 2L of fuel. I'm hoping this gets me to a gas station or I'll be knocking on a local's door. I bet they'd have gas and give me a hearty smile anyway so I'm not too stressed.
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    I make it to St. Barbe on empty again but fill up at an open gas station. I immediately ride across the street to get my ferry ticket to Newfoundland for $11. You can really tell the difference between subsidized and nonsubsidized ferry services! I walk next door to the Motel and decide to treat myself to a birthday meal. Breakfast is my favorite meal of the day so I might as well have a hearty one.

    Two big pancakes and coffee hit the spot. The waitress never managed to bring my bill so I left her a $10 note and rode down to wait for the ferry. It was sprinkling and then turned into a constant rain while I sat on the bike watching cars, trucks, vans, RV's and tractor trailers board.
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    Finally I was one of the last vehicles onboard.
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    I stowed my gear and grabbed my chargeables then walked up a few decks. The ship had led a storied pass in the northern Atlantic and Scandinavia. The decor was heavy on wood paneling, outdated smoking/party rooms and velour chair cushions. There was a small cafe, store selling local trinkets and a mini arcade for the screaming teenagers. I found a free map and decided to plot a course for the day.
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    My first adventure would be to ride as far south along the coast as the road would allow. Unfortunately I would not come near the funny bay.
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    The three hour ferry ride was uneventful and I chatted with some fellow passnegers about Labrador and things to see/do.
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    Here I am getting my first glimpse of the fog-shrouded coast of Labrador.
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    The ferry docks and my first stop after disembarking is the terminal to check on the return schedule later in the week. After learning when the boats sail, I set off to discover Labrador. My heart is full, the sky is a dull grey and I couldn't be happier as I ride into Quebec...wait a second...Quebec?
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    La Brador is the northernmost city along the coast in Quebec and is just south of the ferry terminal. I spotted this neat Inookshok there.
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    I rode along the lonely two lane road south to the beautiful Brador Falls.
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    This is the view of my bike and the twisty road that ascended into the clouds. This hill was so steep I was shocked to see the 18% grade sign on my return trip later that day. :huh
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    The scenery here was absolutely stunning.
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    It reminded me of the western coast of Ireland with the climate and low lying vegetation. It is an interesting feeling knowing that there are no towns and no roads at all in any direction west for hundreds of miles. It really is quite desolate out that way.
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    I work my way through many small fishing communities along the coast. Most have a large general store, some sort of take out diner and a gas pump or two if they are lucky. I finally meet the end of the road in Vieux-Fort (Old Fort)
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    I then take a small break for a granola bar and to be barked at by a curious dog.
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    This man processes fish at the plant beside the dock.
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    I turned around and retraced my steps along the twisty coastal road at a brisker pace than my first pass. :evil I spotted two small fishing shacks down a boulder-strewn road jutting out into a peninsula. Sure why not. Have GS - WILL TRAVEL :norton
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    This sorta dead-ended so I turned around and worked back to the road fighting the rocks, sand and staying upright. Lovin' it.

    This is the view looking down on Brador Bay on the road with 18% grade. I pulled in the clutch and gained speed on my descent.
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    One observation about Candian construction signs, they are VERY exact. Case in point:
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    I stopped to fuel up and was surprised that fuel was cheaper here than in Newfoundland. The french speaking gas station attendant in braces took my cash but kept her distance. It must be the scary beard, pink suit and glasses. I don't blame her.

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    The road snaked north along the coast passing in and out of small towns and rising to high cliffs and plateaus overlooking the rocky coastline.
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    The Pinware River is truly a beautiful and wild sight.
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    This direction flows to the sea
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    The road crews had built a new highway directly over the mountain toward Red Bay. The road was nearing completion but still closed, forcing me onto the old twisty road along the cliffside following the river upstream. It is so much better, although rough, but I hope they keep it open once the new section opens.
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    Not long after, the road sinks toward Red Bay.
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    The sea fog here was otherworldly and shrouded the bottom 20ft above the water in a thick white blanket.
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    I rode into town and grabbed gas, air, some chocolate snacks and the weather report.

    This is the beginning of the Trans Lab Hwy (or the end if coming from the west)
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    Off I go! :super
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    Road conditions were great. The dust wasn't terrible and the ruts were mostly filled.
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    The first stop after 30 miles or more is Lodge Bay. There is a small informational kiosk and a bench. I ate some kippered herring and watched while the Buick Lucerne I passed at 70mph 20 minutes ago overtook me.
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    Onward up to Mary's Harbor.
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    I inquired about the boat ride to Battle Harbor but learned it had already sailed at 6:00. It was 6:30. Onward!

    I decided it was getting to be about that time where moose come out of nowhere and Mike gets sleepy. There are miles of fir trees and not much else. I spotted a woodpile along the roadside and drove down into the sandy work area.
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    Yup I think this will work for a campsite tonight :thumb
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    The smell of freshly cut pine was intoxicating.
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    After setting up my tent and covering the bike, I walked down to the lake behind the logging clear cut for my evening bath. It was the kind of peaceful solitude where you hear nothing but an occasional bird and the silence begins to roar in your ears.
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    I bathed in the fresh rust-colored water (likely from the tanins in the soil/decaying matter) and expected the flock of woodland birds pecking at my clothes to steal my watch or underwear. They did not. It was incredibly peaceful.

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    After the relaxing bath, I slowly walked back to camp down a cleared path of moss and lichen that sank 5 or 6 inches with each step. It was like walking on a giant sponge. The flies and mosquitoes began to come out when I sat still so I activated my new mosquito repellent device my father gave me as a birthday present. The little propane heater set to vaporizing the repellent and quickly the bugs were no longer an issue. This gave me enough time to prepare a can of beans and drink some Crown Royal. I smoked my pipe and looked at the Milky Way stretching across the northern sky. This is a birthday I am sure to remember.

    I fell asleep slowly. The sound of silence was so loud it kept reverberating in my ears like a hollow echo on both the high and low registers. If you've ever heard it, you know what I"m talking about. I expected a visit in the night from a curious moose or a black bear but neither bothered me. Hotel Wood Pile was a success.
    #99
  20. HBN

    HBN lostwithmike.com

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    12,036
    Location:
    Seat of my Ruckus
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    I rested until the rain let off for a moment. It tricked me into loading up the bike right as it started to pour harder than before. I did however learn to disassemble the tent underneath the rain canopy. :thumb REI

    There was a heavy fog. There wasn't any dust though.
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    Well why the hell not!?
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    I should mention that there were Inukshuks dotting the mountains and small hills throughout Labrador. This was by far my favorite on the road to St. Lewis.
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    The graders were out on a couple of sections. I found that they made the road much smoother save the boulders that are turned up or in the newly plowed crown.
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    I pulled into Port Hope Simpson for fuel and some coffee.
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    I hear rumors of a beautiful woman whose family runs this gas station. I didn't see her but I believe I met her mother.

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    The famous sign:
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    I wouldn't have the time to continue all the way through but I certainly will someday.

    Road conditions were great. I was comfortably cruising around 60mph and could crank it on some straighter sections with better visibility. The road is actually quite smoother over the speed limit for this GS.
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    I think I've found Alexander Supertramp!
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    This was one heck of a strange roadsign. Spotted in Charlottetown.
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    I saw no aliens or flagmen.

    I did see some boats.
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    Then read up a bit about the town's history.
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    Chillin by an island in Wild Bight 52.686815,-55.924536
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    Pinsent's Arm
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    I turned around at this point. This was the farthest north I had ridden on a motorcycle in Charlottetown (52.772343,-56.116302)

    That sinking feeling sets in knowing that you have to turn around and the trip is on it's tail end. I hate that feeling but am strangely comforted by it as well.
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    The return ride was bright and clear. The wind blew a steady 15-20 mph throughout the day and became incredible erratic the closer I got to Red Bay. I was almost blown off the road on a bridge near a wide valley and lake. A tractor trailer wisely sheltered up the road waiting for a safe calm time to pass.
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    The fog was incredibly thick in Red Bay. It lifted just long enough to reveal a ghostly shipwreck. All shipwrecks should be unveiled in such a manor.
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    Pinware River rest.
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    I decided to set out to grab a bite to eat and a beer somewhere along the coast. I rode as far south as L'anse Au Loup looking for a bar or restaurant to no avail. They only had a bakery. I wound up riding back up the coast to Red Bay to dine in the small restaurant/gift shop.
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    A cup of coffee and the cod fish and chips rated best in Labrador by Frommers guide. She mentioned it twice.
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    It was delicious and the coffee was a welcome warmth.

    The fog remained thick after eating as well.
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    This is up the hill at Country Cat Pond dotted with small cabins.
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    I spotted a sweet spot to boondock off the road just up the cliff from the Pinware.
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    Doesn't look like I'm the only one here though :eek1
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    And some of this
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    I slept fine though :thumb