Two Moto Kiwis Arctic To Antarctic May 2012...

Discussion in 'Epic Rides' started by Two Moto Kiwis, May 8, 2012.

  1. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    For us the first few days were a struggle, we have enjoyed ourselves and through good karma and very friendly Mexicans we have had a tremendous amount of help which quite frankly we would have been stuffed without.

    Couchsurfing, our 5th since being on the road from Alaska, we made contact with Alberto, we were his first surfers so he did not know what to expect, we didn’t know very much Spanish so we didn’t know what to expect ... what a crowd of geniuses. :D

    We were invited into his home, he lives in a secure compound (not jail) with a courtyard out of sight where we parked up Chiwi and Hobbit, meeting at a local Thai restaurant which was a convenient place we shouted Alberto tea (dinner) for him accepting to take us in for the night.

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    We planned to stay the night then carry on, some dramas with Insurance and my then starting to weep shock held us back with progress, Alberto with his friendly approach said please stay and get sorted no problem at all. :clap

    He left for work, we settled in to get our stuff sorted out and with a quiet house and Wifi it was perfect.

    The Mexican insurance gig sent us off the edge so with help understanding what we were getting into Alberto helped suss things out in Spanish, even he had some difficulty which made us feel a LOT better as he is a design engineer so no dumby by any stretch.

    That second night we were kindly invited to go to a baseball match with the lads, what a treat not ever having been to a match before so there we were watching two Spanish teams duke it out on the field, most excellent!!

    Pictured here Javier, me, Alberto and Alexandro (sitting stealth) (think he was in the dunny)

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    Javier sporting his support painted tat :evil

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    These girls kept getting in the way while I was trying to take photos of the grass, sorry guys :wink:

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    Earlier that day we went shopping for food etc and made very slow progress with one thing and another, Ellen cooked up a Thai curry and one of Albertos mates Javier came and joined us for food, interestingly enough Walmart sell Mexican ADV bikes

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    You can conveniently buy shampoo too at an arms length :rofl

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    Given that we had become re-invited overstayers we set too trying to get a phone card, chains and sprockets sorted and my now newly weeping shock, apart from that we had nothing to do except tear our hair out and I don’t have much of that to start with.

    Javier’s 41st birthday was on that following evening so Ellen made the famous Sushi, later that evening we went out to a night club for Whiskey, dancing and good times, this closed at 2.00am so they kicked all us oldies out back to the retirement village, Javier had a yummy cheesecake which he insisted we all have some of ... ok.

    Sushi .... YUM!!!

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    Me, Ellen and Alberto

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    The birthday boy Javier and his good lady!!

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    Good times :freaky

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    More mates,

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    Ouwh old people dancing :eek1 :D

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    We were impressed with the concrete floor

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    3.40am we all cashed it in, full of sushi, grog and cheescake ... classic .. not quite what we expected from a one night stay.

    Friday morning Alberto was leaving to go back to Mexico city and said hey if we want to stay it would be no problem but he won’t be there, having still very incomplete business we decided to do this.

    Saturday we did cruze around Hermosillo after getting mostly sorted, went up to the lookout and really enjoyed the day.

    Some general pics

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    Cell towers

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    Thess little buggas are everywhere

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    Neat colours

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    Hobbit .... still going (touch wood)

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    Saturday evening was one of Albertos workmates party .... in the courtyard....straight outside our door so not far to stumble.

    In true Mexican style we were invited to have Tacos and pasta, we bought a bottle of red wine and duly accepted, this was great talking to these guys, they wanted to know about our trip and we wanted to get local info and enjoy local peoples company only a 1.45 am finish this time.

    Head chef and birthday boy

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    Does not need explaining!!! hmmm can you smell it!:evil

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    Sean and I having a chat

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    Sunday we went for a big walk on a local hill mountain bike / walking track, was neat for us to chat (kinda) with MTB locals, the weather was very nice an made it a pleasure, on the way back we stopped in at a supermarkdo and fooded up again for our assault on Copper Canyon as Monday lunchtime we leave, no photos as we forgot the camera.... broke the rules of NEVER leave the camera at home.

    Tuna Blanco, this is what this piece of cactus leaf is called, we tried it and loved it, something we have never had before, very nice to eat as fruit.

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    Now for the credits on this part of our report, I have to be honest and say although we had a very lonely start to Mexico and struggled a bit but the warmth and welcoming of the locals here has been second to none, they have set the bar very very high now.

    A special thanks to Alberto, your blood is worth bottling mate and Javier just for making us feel welcome like a local mate, you guys have made our stay just magic.

    We are now insured, shipping sorted, have a phone card, fooded and ready and much much wiser for looking learning and listening, if the rest of Mexico is only half as cool as the last few days I am not sure we will leave :D ... but we have to.
  2. SurelyRide

    SurelyRide n00b

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    Curious now... did you make the US border in time for the Visa deadline or was there no issue and good luck there? Sorry if I missed this detail in a report! Good luck in Mexico, sounds like you're off to a great start!
  3. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Yes we made it ok.
  4. hondav2

    hondav2 Kiwi Fukengruver

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    Keep the pics and stories coming , Im in new house :clap , what a major shifting and cleaning up old house , got a few bucket fills of tar out of oven , nearly lost half of lounge sweet of trailer this morning , very lucky car following was flashing his headlights at me . Fukengruver Micheal on blue KTM 9fiddy is giving new a help tomorrow , havnt had time to get a decent ride in yet , Keep safe and Take Care Toddy BTW im off to Phills on stress leave mid feb , tickets bookes YeeeHa
  5. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Great news re the digs, you better send some pics.

    Say gidday to Michael from us.

    K, gotta get the trip reports up now.
  6. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    We left at 1.30pm from Albertos, we had 281 km to do before dark which is 5.30 pm.

    No prob .... errr wrong, the first 100 km was straight .. ho hum.

    The next 181 was like a cut up and broken supermoto track with more corners than you can poke a stick at, for 90% of it there are NO straights between the corners, totally sweet when having a dudes ride but not so great when trying to make time. :eek1

    A military checkpoint was the main feature, we were stopped at 5.20 pm with 48 km to go, they took our VIN numbers, rego, names etc, opened cases etc so we blew about 10 minutes of precious time, so 5.30 when we wived goodbye and basically dark.

    Upon leaving a vicious dog raced out and went for my leg, for those of you who have seen the movie “I Am Legend” with Will Smith you will know what it looked like....SPOOKY does not come close, anyway long and short of it I managed to get the first kick and got it clean under the jaw sending it of line and slightly dazed but he also had a crack at Ellen all be-it a slightly distant one so she was good....I think it was put off by me!! YAY :clap:

    Arriving in Yecora in the dark at 6.30 pm we broke all the rules on not riding in the dark, anyway we got away with it and started looking for accommodation, at the first hotel the guy wouldn’t budge on his inflated gringoed price thinking he had a done so we left.

    Zipping around town in the dark was less than ideal, we spotted another place and went in, the right price, Wifi, off street parking so that ticked all the boxes.

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    Ray of ligh from above .. someone was looking down on us :rofl

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    Turned out to be quite nice and quite, hot shower etc so very nice, when traveling the simple things like flush toilet, hot shower, Wifi and a sheeted bed are luxury items, throw in a can of Root Beer and there is no worries in the world.
  7. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    A nice day greeted us after a cold night outside, we carried on along the torn up supermoto circuit to find some first world race track, there is no telling from corner to corner what you will find next including quad bike sized rocks in your lane.:eek1

    We had to do the same distance as the day before however we did have a few more straights to sit along.

    Having left Yecora at a reasonable time we arrived in Creel mid afternoon, finding home again was the challenge.

    Ellen wanted to camp as the weather was fine so we went to the only camping ground, the lady wanted $200 pesos just to camp, we had to walk to the showers and toilets and make sure the stray dogs didn’t piss on our tent, given we wanted to do Copper Canyon the next day sans gear this was also a concern for security.

    I wasn’t keen to get ripped so we rode out, straight across the road to a nice looking hotel, they said $400 pesos, we wanted to stay two nights so I negotiated a rate of $250 pesos per night for the two night nights... that will do.:clap

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    It turned out to be a nice place and for the $50 pesos more each night it was worth having all the home comforts and secure lockup for our gear while at the canyon.
  8. Mike Ryder

    Mike Ryder Kriegerkuh

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    You guys are rolling along quite nicely, Cheers.
  9. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    We ventured into Copper Canyon the following day, it is about 45 km to Divisadero where the Copper Canyon park starts, this is the road, just stunning!!

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    $20 pesos each to get in was well worth it, the Tram was calling as a must do, at $250 pesos each we thought about it and agreed that we would not be back again so we would do it and yes it was worth while going across and back.

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    In this case the Red one does not go faster as the trams counterweight each other.

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    View of the base station from the tram

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    We had a stalker too :rofl

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    There were amazing small villages down in the Canyon

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    Some cattle looking like ants from the tram

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    The main drive cable and structural tendon block ... cool stuff

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    At the other end

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    Some locals selling stuff, very nice but we can't carry it.

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    It is a fookin long way down :eek1

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    Cantilevered platforms you can stand on and look through to scare you even more :D

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    View across the cables

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    This guy was following me where ever I went .... don't worry about the mexicans!!

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    They are all into scaring the crap out of their customers and charging them for it, I thought this was only done in New Zealand!

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    Cool hole in the rock way up in the middle of nowhere

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    Panoramic courtesy of Mike

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    Copper Canyon is 3100 feet deeper and I think 10 times? the size of the Grand Canyon....sorry mericans but size des matter :evil

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    Me on the edge

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    Ellen on the other edge

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    On our return back to the Canyon edge we met a fellow rider Mike who was on an 1150 GSA.

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    We got to talking about the canyon he had stayed in Urique the previous night so gave us the low down.

    For those who want to know the road is paved for 75 km from the roundabout at the south end of Creel, you take the sign to San Rafal. We went to the end to find the huge roadworks and a detour with the road turning to hard gravel from there down to Urique.

    The train tracks for the Chepe Train

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    This was our turn around point as we had run out of time but on good advice being two up we decided to call it quits and return to home base, Urique was not a must see, must do so we were not too worried.

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    The ride back to Creel was uneventful and nice but started getting cold mid afternoon when the sun is low.

    On this corner if you make a fup god will help you by the looks of it.

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    On return to the hotel I decided we had enough daylight to clean the air filters, these normally get done at every oil change but that all happened very quickly in Fresno then exciting the US they did not get done so were overdue, they were still pretty well ok at this point as we had no been in dusty conditions.

    Gordon, an adventure traveler from Canada rode past us, he didn’t se us and carried on into town, I was sure if he was looking for someone or just a place to stay, I rode into town and found him coming back towards me so I did a U-ey and we had a chat, seemed he wanted some accommodation so I told him where we were which was spot on for him, and he followed me back.

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    That evening info was traded as was cards etc, the following morning he was setting off to Copper Canyon and we were heading to Guacochi.
  10. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Heya Mike great to hear from you mate, make sure you look after Canada for us so when we come back it is still nice and tidy :D

    Yeah slowly making progress eh.
  11. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Creel was a cool wee town, we stayed the two nights so had the chance to have a good look around.

    Here is a few pics of central and shops.

    Some local crafts

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    Groovy coloured corner shop

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    Girl with a puppy

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    A wall ... yeah I know

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    Jandels made from old car tires!!!

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    Local musicians and a stray

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    Guachochi......

    Setting off on a chilly start it warmed up very quickly, a few km down the road the famous Elephant rock appeared so we took the usual photos.

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    The road was great condition and a really nice ride, Mexico has some beautiful Canyon roads and couple with a cool but nice day made it an excellent ride.

    Arriving at Samachique we turned right to head to Batopilas to find out how closed the road actually is. From the turn off it is first world Laguna Seca for 99% of it then at Km 23 there is a sign, road closed!! at km 24 the road works start at that really is it, big machinery and no way through, talk is fours years to complete????, it is only 42 km from there to Batopillas.

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    On turning around it is 104 km to Guachochi which was our destination, again nice roads and friendly people, a far cry from banditos, narcos and military check points none of which we could see.

    Overhanging rocks

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    Ellen

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    Arriving at Guachochi we were almost attacked by a pack of dogs .... but this time we had the upper hand :D

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  12. Kiwi Canuck

    Kiwi Canuck Adventurer

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    Langley, BC
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    I was looking too but couldn't see the kitchen sink, but I know it must be in there somewhere, did you find it?

    Hope all is well with you two Kiwi's, my boys still talk about your visit here which now seems like ages.
  13. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    ... no and I had a good look :D

    Yes all good although Ellen hurt her foot today so will see what tomorrow brings.

    Say hi to the boys from us, we will be back to Canada so will catch you again but we PROMISE it won't be on DR650's :rofl

    Miss Canada very much eh and the great people.
  14. hondav2

    hondav2 Kiwi Fukengruver

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    I would go anywhere on a DR650 , mine has 70,762 happy miles on it now . But after what has happened to yours I would probably buy a 5 year old one with low miles on it. Sadly suzuki are getting components manufactured off shore and the quality control is not working . Lets hope all the dramas are behind yous now. Weather is cold and crap here , fresh snow on mountains today , Im getting scratchy coz havnt been for decent ride for a while with shifting , Burt Munroe Rally starts this week so hopefully get to some events , I havnt missed the street races at Wyndman yet, Micheal and me are going to go there so we will do some dirt roads going there and back . Syd the guy I took u to meet here with the old race bikes has his ex Stroud 750 Yamaha flying , he had it up the North Island racing it. He had a new old suzuki in the trailer he just got, dont know if he is taking the Nickerbacker down . Kev will be at Teratonga on 748 Will let you know how it goes Cheers Toddy
  15. flying kiwi

    flying kiwi Adventurer

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    Hey, sounds like you are well sorted now. Awesome photos of Copper Canyon, and beautiful roads - when they are paved. Snow on Mt Roy, Gold, and the Hawea Range this morning. Pissed down all day yesterday which bought back a few memories of the '99 floods - yesterday was the anniversary!
    Looking forward to a skype catchup with you from all of us at the WMMC on Wednesday.
    Ride safe,
    Richard
  16. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Heya Richard, yeap all good, sounds like Wonka has ben wet.

    Is the lake high or just normal?, how much snow still up on the tops?
  17. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    That was the game plan anyway. :eek1

    Bedroom golf at 6.30 am (no photos :evil), alarm at 7.00 am so time to hop up and have a shower, breaky etc, 8.00am we started the bikes, went to Pemex to fill, left Pemex at 8.15 am .... 4 degrees C, the turnoff was at the north end of town to a little town called Yoquivo, the road is new and is Laguna Seca race track standard for 35km.

    Tarmac greeted us for the first 35km then it end abruptly ... i.e. road carpet to trailbike track, this was on our return but the is the end of the race track into the pits :D.

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    The road through to Yoquivo was good fun, rough in parts smooth in parts, at times the dirt powder would have been 150 mm deep and very fine like talcum powder, Ellen really enjoyed that part of the ride, these pics are pretty indicative of the road to Yoquivo.

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    On arrival at Yoquivo our trip took a bad turn, I stopped to read the sign Ellen pulled up in behind me and dropped her bike, we are not sure but she may have broken the bone or at minimum torn ligaments etc as it is up like a ballon and she can’t walk on it.

    She got her leg caught under the bike.

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    Not looking very happy :cry

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    She decided to stay there, the town seemed nice enough so I carried on down to Batopilas, just as well she did not go on as the road deteriorated and became quite a bit more technical, it would have been hard enough for her without the foot injury.

    Going down to the bottom was spectacular with scenery and views galore, I had a few stops for pics but time was tight not knowing how bad Ellens foot was so it was a short and sweet visit to Batopilas unfortunately.

    Bit fuzzy sorry

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    Beautiful day complimented by a beautiful view

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    Part of the road

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    Big overhanging rock

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    Close up

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    Half way down the canyon looking at Batopilas

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    DRart

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    Our world map slowly getting coloured in with cool places

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    Close up of the village from up high

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    I was stopped by a military blockade again (no photos, not allowed :evil), they were curious about me but were looking hard at the other vehicles, after a quick conversation and smiles in which no-one knew from either side what was talked about there was waves and farewells goodbye..... adios.

    The road sign, straight ahead is where the closed road comes in from, this is right at the bottom of the canyon wher you turn left to Batopilas.

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    Bridge over the Batopilas River right at the north end of town

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    Upon reaching the bottom of the canyon I saw the Batopilas river, the Canyon base is very cool so I took a coupla pics then turned around and headed back to Ellen who was waiting in Yoquivo.

    Proof!!!:clap

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    Two minutes for some pics before i turned around

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    I was here

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    Parked on the bridge and bugga me if a car didn't turn up when I was on the other side ... there was no traffic the rest of the time. :huh

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    From the bottom of the canyon looking north west

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    From the bottom of the canyon looking north east

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    The trip back was slightly quicker with no military stop this time and riding slightly quicker back up the hill.

    This show the dust

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    Arriving at Yoquivo Ellen was not there ..... she had been invited into the house across the street for lunch, I happened to turn up just at the time so I was treated to a nice lunch too.... c h o i c e :clap

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    Cooking tortillas on a wood stove top

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    The rest of the return trip home was uneventful luckily, now we have to deal with the walking wounded.

    Ellen is chip in now...

    While I was sitting under the big tree waiting, a young man from the house come out said hola. I told him I hurt my foot, and try to ask how many people in his house, but got no idea what he replied. We tried to make some conversation, it seemed a bit difficult at the time. Anyway, he went back to the house and came with two apples in his hand. I accepted his kind offer. Then he left to somewhere for lunch.

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    I had a visit from another local

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    I needed a toilet, so went cross the road ask a the lady who was doing her washing there. I then was led to the house, there is a bath room there. No seat on the toilet, which seemed every body been to Mexico has been talking about it. I managed my deed then came back to my tree.

    It’s was after 1pm, a car came to the house cross the road. About ten minutes later, a girl walked toward to me, she invited me to her house for lunch. As she didn’t speak much English, with my little translator, we got to understand each other. While I was sitting down, Andi came back, so he joined us for a very nice home cooked soup and tortillas.

    The father

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    The family, this girl is a nurse

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    To be honest, I was thinking about quit the bike ride while sitting under the tree again. I am not up to it. Broke myself with no real reason, I was angry about myself. But after meeting the lovely people who helped me, trying talk to me, giving me food, I would not say quit anymore. I will carry on for the trip, because the experience of meeting generous people are has made up all the bad lucks and difficulties we have encountered.
  18. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    OK, not much to put up on this report, probably quite good really given the monster Batopilas report.

    The road was pretty good and great fun, we did see two other bikers (locals) and with bigs waves etc was a neat find, not many big bikes here.

    The only other locals we found were these fellas, they are EVERYWHERE, I came around one corner and there was a huge pod of them, my front wheel went clean over the top causing my front to slide momentarily :eek1 ... they are slippery little buggas when you crack em open!!

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    Due to Ellens foot injury we took it easy on a road ride, arriving at Matamoros we decided to call it quit there for the day so headed into town central to find a hotel.

    There are NO hotels in Matamoros so take note ADVers, we asked some locals and found a lady who could speak basic english which was a god send, she rang the Police .... not normally what I like doing but we were not in trouble this time :D

    They said no problem we can have a small room to stay in with our bikes secured too, I am picturing a cell but it wasn't quite like that. :rofl

    Arriving at the Police station we went around the side of the building, he showed us a big shed, with a little room.

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    Turns out we were given a basketball stadium ..... now THAT is something new!!

    Back to the walking wounded, as it would happen the medical centre is only 50 metres away, the officer (Jorge)((no relation to Mr.Lorenzo)) (((Doon ... he IS the world champ))) insisted she go to the Doc, the Doc said at worst it could be fractured, more than likely at least torn ligaments and bad bruising so it will be uncomfortable and weak for a while.

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    He restrapped it back up and gave Ellen some hard drugs to HTFU with, she kinda has to as we have no choice.

    His whole family was there too ... and had food there eating as you do in a Mexican Doctors Surgery, they also gave us food for two to take away and eat so Ellen came back to our Staduim for tea.

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    We had great chats with all the guys here on the force, really great guys, very welcoming and very friendly, would have to say we stepped on a gem here by accident ..... thus proving that not ALL accidents are bad.

    This is Jorge who took Ellen to the doctor.

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    This is the chief who gave us the stadium :eek1 :D :clap

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    These are the rest of the lads and me showing them our trip, it was great showing them.

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  19. Footies

    Footies n00b

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Melbourne, Australia
    Hi

    My wife did the exact same thing and fractured her ankle riding the Simpson desert, she rode to Medical but it was painful.

    A really nice family drove let her jump in with them back to Melbourne and another traveller who worked for a transport company got the bike shipped back for $375 AUD which was a road train to Adelaide, truck to Melbourne....people generally like to help...

    Lesson learnt for us, dump the weight, .....give it to hubbie, or dump it all together, if the bike is too big sell it buy a smaller local one and continue trip......the photos look awesome and the experience fantastic....people are very nice and generally want to help....be a shame to stop.

    My wife had no bags on when it happened so it was the bikes weight the did the damage...no sure hard or soft bags would make a diference.

    I have a DR as well, crazy the mechanic drama with them, put me off buying another......


    Cheers

    Chris
  20. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,089
    Location:
    Wanaka, New Zealand, Currently RTWing
    The road wasn't the problem, the off camber stop was what did it, she rode the tricky stuff very well but failed the stop ... just a shit happens moment.

    If I were doing this trip by myself I would be on a DRZ400 with softies but 90 % of our trip is Adventure Travel rather than hardass Adventure Riding.

    We are on a budget so we are still cooking our own as we enjoy it and we know what we get ... hopefully won't get too fat by eating out all the time too. :D

    When we do some more serious stuff we lighten the load for sure but all our gear weighs about 1/3 of a passenger so we are not heavily loaded to start with.

    Will have to come back to do the big round trip, Creel, Urique, Batoplias, Guachochi but will be on a ligher bike etc then.

    We made the choice to go hard bags for waterproof and security so there is always a compromise.