Two Moto Kiwis Arctic To Antarctic May 2012...

Discussion in 'Epic Rides' started by Two Moto Kiwis, May 8, 2012.

  1. Ducatijim

    Ducatijim Hopeless Poseuer!

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    Soft bags are a must for serious adventure is my position. Security is an issue but better than broken bones.
    Heal fast Ellen....try a wee dram of cement each morning till betta!!!:rofl
  2. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Heya Jim

    Yeap totally agree with that but for us they are working well but everything is a compromise eh.

    Ellen will be ok .... she will have to be.
  3. holckster

    holckster dougholck

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    Hi Ellen and Andi, enjoyed your update and hope Ellen's foot feels better soon.
    How did you stumble upon this Hotel, we had to be shown to it by a local as there were no signs.
    I stayed in that same room last Feb.
    Currently hosting a couple of Aussie lads who just arrived Calif and bought a couple of used KLR's we are now outfitting for thier ride to South America in a couple of weeks after they Yosemite and the North Calif coast redwoods.
  4. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Someone said a dodgy yank stayed there so we thought it would be ok :D

    Actually I spotted it quite easily and yeap it was a good place.:clap
  5. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    They are nice bags for sure but also cost twice what all three of our cases did, bearing in mind our set up cost is in consideration here too.

    Ellen has binned her bike upwards of 40 times on this trip and probably 30 of those helped save her leg/foot as she knows not to get caught under the bike and literally steps off it and lets it go, I have also seen fully grown ADvers break a leg with soft panniers from getting caught the wrong way too.

    As I said this was a just a shit happens from her non attention as she was at a stand still, so without turning our RTW RR into a pissing match I accept that soft bags are better for hardass ADV riding and our setup works well for us... Adventure travelers, all good advice taken as well.:clap
  6. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    We were lucky enough to have access to the Police station mess room which had toilet lighting and Wifi as well as a car seat to sit in so we managed to get all our reports up to date.....saweeet !! Office work done.:clap

    Waking up in a basketball stadium to the sound of chirping birds was quite different, to be fair it is the biggest room we have had.

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    Size does matter, we had a 4 tier table and seating system and a stage which was just excessive :D, it rained earlier in the night so both Hobbit and Chiwi enjoyed the dry room. :rofl

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    Packing took a new sequence of events too, something to make a bit of fun with our room.

    Take one exped pillow and place back in bag, tighten bag.

    Take one ortleib waterproof bag and place under basketball net.

    Throw ones exped pillow at hoop and hope...

    Aim

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    Fire

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    Net!:rofl

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    Exped pillow, thrown correctly, nothin but net .. packed :D

    Our trip today was down the Mex 45, turn right to San Maria del Oro and through to Tepehuanes, arriving at San Maria del Oro we took a wrong turn or more to the point we didn't turn ... we went a further 15 km to San Bernardo which is kinda the end of the road ... damn!!

    We did stop for lunch along the way at a small worship place which was nice.

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    We asked for directions and headed back to San Maria del Oro, I spotted a KLR 650, an oldie, got talking to the dude and he said follow me, he promptly took us through the streets and showed us the road out which turned out to be 45 miles (75km) of concrete paved road....unreal condition like new.

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    Beautiful

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    We arrived at Tepehuanes and found a hotel, we agree a price of 200 pesos, about an hour and a half later a lady with big boobs flagged me down in reception and started demanding money, I said but have already paid! but she would not have a bar of it, thankfully Ellen just arrived back so the chat/pubscrap was on.

    I got the lappy and Google translator helped a lot, one phone call to someone (obviously to the same person earlier) then that was it, pubscrap over all smiles and we were good so not entirely sure what happened there but we were not thrown out :evil

    In the village square there was brass band playing, the dudes where good, even the Police clad with machine guns were watching.

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    Bikes parked .. .should be ok there

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    Tea was on the agenda as we were both hungry, we got one of these to start with between us.

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    Then some other english speaking guys asked if we still wanted the room .... WTF it was sorted.... apparently right hand does not talk with left hand, anyway all sorted in the end.

    That concludes today.
  7. flying kiwi

    flying kiwi Adventurer

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    Hey, sounds like you are having plenty of laughs at the expense of the language barrier. Seems like you are a bit wiser too which will no doubt help as you ride further south.
    Mate, the lake is all good. Just rained for a day, and snowed to base at TC, but it was all gone pretty quickly. Weather is all over the pharking place - hot and sunny one day, cold and shitty the next. Burt Munro this weekend, but my good lady booked us onto an island in Fiji without consulting my ride calendar which is not hard to do cos I don't have one. So no Burt this year. Shit happens
  8. Night Falcon

    Night Falcon Adventure NZL

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    Hope Ellen's foot heals up fast.
  9. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Thank you very much. I'm up and running ( not really running, but walking) already.
  10. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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  11. Tracks1

    Tracks1 Arctic Rider

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    Because of the Drug Wars and high murder rate in those areas. Never travel alone is the safest way.

    Overall I find Mexico to be fun and safe. Generally I only go to Baja for the Riding and Fishing.:wink:
  12. GuateRider

    GuateRider Long timer

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    Because they have never been down here and they just believe all the lies from the US medias !!!
    In the last 33 years I have been all over Mexico many times and solo , and I never had a problem . I have never heard about a tourist getting killed in Mexico, but I couldn't say the same about Miami:evil .
  13. Nevada Rider

    Nevada Rider World Geo Rider

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    Location:
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    Hola Dos Kiwis,

    I agree with Guate Rider, Betitolora and the others who have posted here. Yes, there is violence down here, just as there is everywhere in the world, but as long as you keep your head about you and take the US media with less than a grain of salt, like reading the headlines of the National Inquirer, you'll be alright. The American media are all about sensationalism to appeased the masses of mind numbed, slack jawed, television addicts. Riding at night and staying in dodgy neighborhoods are two things to avoid. You two don't seem like "nightclub types" so I needn't go into that.

    Above all, have a great time, enjoy the people and the countries and if you find yourself in central Guerrero in the next week or so, let me know. I've got a room, safe parking, cold beer, mezcal, etc. if you're in need of any or all.

    Saludos,

    JD (NevadaRider)
  14. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    I think the article might have been from an American reporter.

    Back to the trip.....

    Dr650 ... left outside in the cold :cry

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    Breaky was some local burrito style of thing, we had run out of muesli and heading to the main centre we though we would eat out.

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    On leaving from Tepehuanes it was a nice ride through mounts with rock bluffs and interesting scenery. Exiting the hilly part we hit 20000 miles (32000km) on the speedo since leaving from Alaska.

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    A place of worship on a HUGE rock

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    Some spiral shaped building, quite cool really.

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    Straights greeted us for the rest of the ride into Durango so pretty uneventful except one driver who tried to bulldoze us off the road, the lady was yelling out in Spanish at us, we were only doing 90km/hr in a 40km/hr zone so we were obviously holding them up.

    I reciprocated with the finger for their good effort, they continued to weave in and out of the traffic ahead without making much progress, thus far they are the only nasty Mexicans we have met.

    Arriving in Durango one of the ten most dangerous cities in the world (9th) we found our accommodation with a small round the block trip with streets not quite being where they were supposed to, we had to stop and ask directions from some locals and after arm waiving and directions in Spanish we were on our way eventually getting to where we were meant to be.

    The previous night we had looked on Google Maps and Google Street View which was a great help as we then knew what we where looking for.

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    Ulises and William were running late so had a gutter lunch with a bunch of local boys who were fascinated by our bikes, with big smiles they all had turns at sitting on the bikes which was well cool.

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    They even had a geography lesson on our RTW sticker

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    Ulises the owner and William a couchsurfer from the UK greeted us, we tried to fit the bikes into Ulises courtyard for safe keeping but the luggage despite being not very wide managed to not fit in by 10 mm, rather then remove the luggage a neighbour from down the street kindly offered her courtyard with plenty of room, we duly accepted this offer.

    It was decided that we would head into town for the later afternoon to the centro on the bus, that way we didn’t have to carry our riding gear which made it easier and didn’t have to ride in the traffic.

    There was a cafe strip which we noted, Ulises took us for a walking tour of beautiful buildings, churches, shops and stalls, at one of the stalls we bought a bottle of liqueur that was nectarine based flavoured and very sweet bordering on a sticky dessert wine so a real treat.

    Some shots of Durango centro

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    Our impromptu tour took us underground to a mining museum under the city centre, this was very well done, from there we headed to the cable car for a night view of Durango only to find it was out of order....bit of a bumma.

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    Heavily finished detail on some of the buildings

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    Rubbish and recycling

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    It was decided that Tea time was the next plan as it was about 8.00pm, on the way up to the cable car we spotted a burger cart with wood smoke pouring out of the roof and the beautiful smells of cooking meat torturing our hunger sensors so there really was no choice.

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    On collecting our burgers we walked back into the town square sat down and had a feast we were supposed to have chilly corn on the cob however our monster burgers filled us all up.

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    The town was lit up beautifully with the lighting looking very cool.

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    Returning home we cracked open the Liqueur and had a few rounds, Ulises decided not have too many as he had an exam the next morning, actually it turned out to be the next next morning so he dipped out a bit there.

    With our day to be had in Durango Ellen and I headed back in centro for more of a look and to go back to the coffee shop we had spotted.

    I had a cappuccino which was the best I’ve had since leaving New Zealand, Ellens Americano was the same so pretty cool to have such a treat here in Mexico.

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    I had a gut cramp and thought it was the coffee assisting things but it turned out to be more than that, thankfully Mc Donalds was only 50 metres away and after two brisk visits there I decided the best looking shop to me was the Farmacia (Pharmacy) to by some stop cramp and bum binder.... perfecto!!!

    Ellen got an Icecream and I got some pills..... not fair. :cry

    Heading toward home we stopped in the supermarkedo for supplies for the next day on the road to Mazhatlan, the next mission was finding our way back home, we picked a bus and asked the driver and he gave us the thumbs up.

    Somewhere in the middle the translation was lost and he stopped outside and Ambulance station, I showed him our piece of paper with the name of where we wanted to go so he carried on, the lady behind him asked if she could have a look too, she discussed it with her mate and the guys behind and beside her so soon the whole bus was in on it.

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    The bus driver stopped and pointed down a street and everyone else on the bus concurred that we were in the correct place .... not bad for a bunch of dangerous people as it turned out they were all right so we found home base pretty easy.

    Ellen did her ride report and we took some more pics.

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    The alley in Ulises house.

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    The view from th top

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    Last but not least Ulises doggy!

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    When Ulli and William came home we all headed out for tea trying local food combinations, again the food was superb and very cheap costing around $10 New Zealand Dollars to feed three blokes and a chic.

    Not once did we feel threatened or have any dodgy dealings, I guess you can always find trouble if you want it but here in the centro there are woman and children out walking so I guess that says something.

    All in all Durango gets the big tick yet again from the people who make the place, thank you to Ulises for hosting us and William for being the translator.
  15. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Agree with that Mexico is fun and safe, the mainland is just a good and the people are great, normal people on the ground are generous and very helpful, like anywhere you will find trouble if you want it.

    The day after we left Fresno was that mass killing too so you can choose your poison eh.
  16. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Put perfectly, we have not felt threatened yet, the military are our mates and the police were very good to us.

    See the last post re Fresno, I bought a soldering iron straight across the street!! :eek1
  17. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Heya JD, well put too, we will be down your way but not for another few weeks yet unfortunately, would have great to catch up, are you going to be away?
  18. Nevada Rider

    Nevada Rider World Geo Rider

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    I'll be here in Guerrero until the 28th, then I will drive up to my other project in Guachinango, Jalisco, which is in the mountains about half way between Guadalajara and Puerto Vallarta. I have just rented a place there, so have not furnished it as yet, but there is lots of floor space. You are welcome there as well if you happen to be passing through. Safe parking, cold beer, no mezcal, because Jalisco is Tequila country, etc... You can PM me if you get close and if I'm around I'll be glad to host you two.

    Saludos,

    JD
  19. clintnz

    clintnz Trans-Global Chook Chaser

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    Great stuff guys, really enjoying the report & your cool pics. Good to hear the foot isn't too bad.

    We are just getting organised for our next overseas trip... to the South Is for the Dusty Butt in January :lol3 We've heard lots of stories about real dodgy locals south of the strait but we think it it's probably all media hype like with Mexico :rofl

    Cheers
    Clint
  20. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Nah mate it is real ... but most of the bad wackos are riding overseas like in Mexico tho :evil

    I will inform the authorities of illegal alien immigrants crashing the SI border so make sure you have your passport. :D

    I will miss this DB and the next DB so that is a bumma, guess I can't complain.

    Great to hear from you guys and catch up down the track, enjoy the DB and try and keep the rubber bits down as they are the cheap bits!!!:clap