Two Moto Kiwis Arctic To Antarctic May 2012...

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Two Moto Kiwis, May 8, 2012.

  1. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Heya Pierre, we have been playing with setting and got something a bit wrong ... no carotene poisoning or anything :D

    Yeah left a reply, great pics he has eh.
  2. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Guatape is a damn fine place to be stuck!!

    I was stuck in a coffe protest back in March. Not much you can do. The Colombians can be very passionate about their causes. For my situation there were hundreds of road blocks w protestors and tress cut down. I think the protest went about 16 days.

    Andres at the KTM Dealer in the Poblado area of Medellin is the man. He was very nice and helpful to me eventhough I ride an F800. :rofl Had some great ride suggestions and knew all the places to get other stuff. Lots of shops in that area to get anything you need. Name brand and knock off. Ruta 40 BMW also went above and beyond.

    There is another KTM shop just a couple of blocks from the legit one. The guy is nice but he is not an Authorized KTM dealer. Just has an orange shop and deals in a lot of used KTMs. The word was he did good work.

    Medellin can be pricey especially in Poblado but my 3 days turned into 8 or 10 before I knew it. I suspect your camera issues will only increase in that area!!:clap

    You RR is keeping me going at work. Thx[/QUOTE]

    Heya mate, yeah it will be what it will be with the protests, Guatape is cool and we went for a local ride today.

    Depends on the truckies really as far as we go, maybe get to go tomorrow but probably not, any sign or issues and we will stay put and enjoy more of Guatape.

    R2R KTM have contacted us so we are taking Maya there for teh valve check and a few other odds and sods, also close to the Shamrock too.

    Least now I can get some more reports up to date ... no excuse now eh :rofl ... and glad to hear they keep you occupied at work :evil
  3. TouringDave

    TouringDave Tri Moto Veritas

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    Damn guys, this is a brilliant RR! :clap
  4. charapa

    charapa Been here awhile

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    Hey Andi!

    Wifey and I found a place similar to this (Los Santos) in northern Peru where we plan to settle and open a Hostel to go with my 'Around the Block Moto Adventures' business. Don't miss it on your way down thru. It is 3 little towns strung together called 'Limon', 'Granadilla', and 'Lucuma'. It is on the climb from Balsas to Celendin. 3,000 mts, but a microclimate in the clouds where bananas and cactus grow side by side! :eek1

    What way are you crossing Ecuador/Peru?

    Mid-Peru about mid-October?

    Cheers mate! :freaky Great RR's!

    Toby
  5. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Thanks man, things really have stepped up even more here in Colombia so loving it, glad you are enjoying it too! :clap
  6. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Heya Toby, will definitely keep those as part of the trip, we love the out of the way places, so much nicer.

    No idea which crossing we are taking to Peru from Ecuador yet, got a good local suggestion?

    We have planned for 3 months in Colombia so will use pretty much all of that, depending on the strikes and riots will depend on what we see, not sure how long we will be in Ecuador either, again some more good local info would be welcomed.

    Cheers dude
  7. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Well, what a nice place to say the least, finally making it there after making funny and entertaining detours we decided to take a break for a day and stay a coupla nights.

    The town is small, very quiet and a must for a quite retreat, there is also a new cafe opened up and their coffee and food was very very good, wifi as well.

    So we found our place to stay with the help of a teenage girl who was curious about Ellens presence and simply wanted to help, Colombians rock!!!

    Arriving at our accommodation was very easy, didn't have to dodge much traffic

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    The hotel had a narrow door, time to ping the cases off in order to get Maya in the door, add to that a coupla steps of a 200 - 250 mm high it was a slight trials ride to get in, once at the door we discovered it was narrower than the handlebars!!

    No prob just a little stunt riding and we were in, park her up in the lounge ... just like home, she makes a good foot rest :clap. :rofl

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    Wandering around town was very laid back and quiet, lots of small shops very nice people, when you get in behind the doors there is some serious art talent there with some pretty cool stuff, the one that interested me the most being and engineering head was this lion, incredibly beautiful piece of work and made from all sorts, I would love to have the talent to build something like that.

    Few pics of details, sorry non-engineering heads.

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    There was lots of other stuff too

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    While we were there there was several weddings on so we watched one, Ellen was running around taking photos more than their official photographer.

    Lady in red ... pretty but she had a look on her face that was longer than the horse above ... not sure why.

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    This is what locals do so I thought I would have a crack at it too, overrated I think.

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    I got a height advantage over him ... not by much tho :rofl

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    At the new cafe we were in fact their very first customers firstly for coffee then for lunch

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    The start of lunch :clap

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    A nice coffee

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    The town is very nice, huge paving slabs on the road

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    Everything is well kept and tidy, very nice indeed

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    Lots of restorations going on of older buildings too

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    Next mission San Gill ...
  8. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Leaving Barichara we only had we only had 10 mil in our pocket which is about $5 bucks.:huh ... it was gettin skinny cos the ATM wouldnt' recognise our card.

    Destination big town Santa Gill for tank and money or we were not going anywhere, our bank cards don’t have chips so we are very limited to funds we can get and where we can get it.

    With tank and ATM stuff done we carried on towards Puerto Berrio, turning off at Barbosa we left the main drag and climbed to 2600 meters into the fog line .... suddenly 20 deg felt cold!!

    The main road

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    Biggest obstacle of the day was these fellas not wantin to leave their road kill lunch on the road, we very nearly hit one :eek1

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    Crossing many roadwork patches and getting into Landazuri we stopped for a quick break and water and to ask directions out of the town, we would not have been more that two minutes and we were swamped with curious people looking at us and the bike, this also happened in El Banco.

    Amidst cheers and smiles from the crowd we felt like rockstars ....two minutes later we were back to normal :cool: :rofl

    A nice view of the road from the top .. the top case came loose, not sure if I tightened it up properly or not :huh

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    Most of the day was pretty easy but there was one reasonbly lengthy section where the SE shone brightly, the smaller bikes etc no match ...for once!!:rofl

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    Arriving at Puerto Berrio we stopped just out of the main square, Ellen did a walkabout to find a hotel while Maya and I gathered a huge crowd of curious onlookers, there was 20 - 30 people gathered when Ellen returned, so much so it looked like a big street fight or something had started so the Police came along wanting to know what the drama was.

    Next thing we know we are taken to the police station escorted by their best to see the commander who talks english, he in turn said ok, this is a great restaurant over here, I will take you to a hotel, you can leave you bike their, I will have an armed guard watch it during the night.

    So we got taken around in royalty, to the hotel with AC and Wifi, take Maya along the street outside the second Police station and have our guard appointed, next thing we know the street was locked off at each end of the block with Police tape and cones, no through traffic was allowed ... classic.

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    So Maya was locked and under cover with not one but TWO personal guardian angels with machine guns looking after her :eek1:eek1.... not quite sure what else to say other than outstanding service from them.

    Here is Puerto Berrio's MIB, left was a Sargent, left (looking at the pic) of me was THE top dog, he fired the orders and people jumped, me, cop who had just come off duty.

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    We walked at night, the town was safe and the people all very friendly, I think with the protests on they were being cautious and me being the only whiteyfoo in town they enjoyed showing their strength, ability and flexing the muscles to show who is boss.
  9. just jeff

    just jeff Long timer

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    That is an amazing job on the Lion! It must weigh a Ton! (1000kG):rofl
    Regards.... Machinist, just jeff
  10. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Heya Jeff

    Mate it is amazing, the work involved would have been 100's of hours, very impressive piece of work.
  11. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    After a night of thunder storms and blaring bar music to wee hours we woke up to a nice day, Mayas guards still standing there with their machine guns although they had taken down their road blocks.

    Here I am, getting permission to take her away :rofl ... buts its my bike mam .... step away from the moto but its mine ouwh ok :evil

    She was very friendly as they all were, see the fellos face on the small moto, this is a common scene over here.

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    Thankfully when I took Mayas cover off the guards me a staunch heads up with small smiles so I carried on and unlocked then took her back to the hotel to saddle up.

    The river at Puerto Bennio is huge

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    Leaving Puerto Bennio many small moto riders were turning theirs heads at the lights etc, it still seemed vary alien to them so we suspect this is not a big ADV campover place.

    Carrying on down the there were beautiful curves and great riding, we had our turn off marked for our spot which when we arrived did not even exist!!! .... it is on our paper map, google maps and GPS but I can you with authority there is just a massive wall of earth to crash into, no stress we will just carry on and take another turn somewhere as there are other roads shown everywhere, we just wanted to get off the main drag.

    Continuing on we turned off onto a gnarly little back road, down to first and second with large lumps of rocks, one or two even hitting the bashplate on Maya and she is not low slung ...I had reservations at first as we had 50 km to do and that would have been hard work.

    So here we are, just as the road started improving, riding from a hard backroad thinking we are hard and doing the bigger challenge :eek1... suddenly we pull up behind a very modern bus thumping away on the road :huh... WTF this is the sticks ... no this is everyday life in this part of Colombia.

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    Next up a cattle truck, then a fruit truck .... gezz so much for a back road and going where not man had gone before.:eek1 :rofl

    The road then got better from a one lane lumpy track into almost two lane, still bumpy and potholed but allowed 3 & 4 gear at times and easy passing for the bus and trucks.

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    Then bang, dirt ends, super moto track starts :huh in the middle of nowwhere :rofl

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    We rock into a small town again (insert alien text from above) and people stared at us but only from curiosity, this coupled with whistles and waves was cool.

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    Through the road we went, following signs and GPS in part, it was beautiful with outstanding views all round, WAY better than the main road (which is a back road anyway) then our reward a seriously cool waterfall in the middle of nowhere on the Santo road.

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    Making our way onward we rode over a huge slip which had been temporarily / permanent fixed then we popped out onto a super moto road again and rolled on into Guatape.

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    The road improved more as we started getting out into more open counrtry

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    All in all a great balance of offroady based stuff and tarseal road miles, this was another one of those days where there was some WTF and great views rolled into one making for a great days travel. :clap
  12. TwoUpTourer

    TwoUpTourer Been here awhile

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    These pics made my day - I know I'll not get there, so this is the next best - thanks!
    John
  13. TeeVee

    TeeVee His mudda was a mudda!

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    they look fake to me...maybe she didn't like the way they looked popping out of her dress. oh, and when you gonna get that damn camera fixed?? it seems to have a certain attraction to the shapely parts...on second thought, leave the bloody thing alone!
  14. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Heya John, more to come soon mate, promise to keep up the virtual tour at least through our eyes, Maya all serviced and Ready To Race (well ride anyway :D)
  15. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Yeah those earrings look like the genuine article eh :evil

    Ouwh those :shog

    Sometimes ya just gotta put up with faulty gear and live with it ... more faults coming too :D
  16. NSFW

    NSFW basecamp4adv

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    andi, those latest pics make me want to come back and read your updates.

    great job in keeping this thread interesting and very entertaining.

    probably this is the best i could get to those places...8(
  17. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Heya Joel, thanks for your comments, on top of writing is gives us enthusiasm to write it well and throw some fun content in too, for us it is a record of a trip of our life and to know that you guys are enjoying it too makes it so much more worth while. :clap
  18. SparkyL

    SparkyL Been here awhile

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    That reception in Puerto Bennio was too cool. Please keep it coming, photos and all. Great stuff! :clap
  19. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Yes not quite something we have had before, felt like a celeb for a while :rofl

    K, Guatape now..... :clap
  20. Two Moto Kiwis

    Two Moto Kiwis Homeless Somewhere

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    Today we walked to the famous crack in the rock stair with 740 steps, looking over the side was little daunting at times as the rock is undercut.

    This was a swing bridge that crosses the road on the way.

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    The target for the day La Piedra Del Peñol

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    There was some money parked on the water, a mobile pub/bar/dance rig ... this was still while walking up to the rock

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    The whole stair is concrete pinned to the rock base, as an engineering type I was hoping the guys had done their job properly :eek1.... in some places there are reinforcing bars poking out into nothing!! DOH :eek1:eek1:eek1

    The stats if you are interested

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    Well nothing fell down and the view from top is incredible to say the least
    As usual no need to carry water etc up as there is 5-6 shops up at the top that will sell you as much sugar as you need

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    The town of Guatape in the distance

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    The old stair

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    The new stair

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    I wasn't feeling the greatest with gut cramps just enough to knock my energy down and at 2000 meters high air is already thinner so to be honest I struggled a bit and was not feeling very shiny at the top, a sit down down, some water and a sit in the sun and all was good ..... or at least not as bad as I still had my gut cramps.

    Looking up the stair ..... conquered that one with a saw guts... even had time for an ADV salute for you fellas :D ... this just proves we are thinking of you!! :evil

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    If you look hard you can see Ellen

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    We made it back down no prob and carried on back into town.

    Next morning I was still feeling second - hand so it was a lay down and rest day, ring in sick and bunk work....not much to say other than poo!!!

    The following morning I was feeling better and we were packing to leave, the cleaner lady said were are you going?, we replied Medellin for moto servicing, no you’re not she said, the road is closed with riots and truck blockades ..... ouwh ... ok we will stay another day then.

    Maya was bored so we took her for a ride to El Panol then back to Guatape for lunch and out to San Rafael and back for a look, nice wee ride.

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    Ellen liked this picture in a cafe....

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    We also stopped at the staircase to get some pics with Maya, we were here :clap

    Mirock and GPStair art :rofl

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    Spokeart, nothing beats a dirty rim shot

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    That afternoon and early evening I took Maya to a small moto shop and did a headlight earth wiring job putting a switch in the earth wire to turn off the headlight and leave only the LEDs going, reason being more power gets to the fans and they spin up much faster emptying the heat out of the engine more efficiently and at 38 - 40 degrees any extra or better cooling is welcomed.

    The town of Guatape is beautiful, great place to visit and a nice place to be stuck when there are riots, blockades, protests and other normal stuff, even if you wonna be sick there it is a cool hangout :D

    Note the guys tok tok is on his wall too

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    Colours, no shortage here, I love this place is it so colourful, laidback and tidy :clap

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    The church with rain cloud looming

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    Next mission to try and get to Medellin....