UK Made 9*0 SE and Adventurer Side Stand Relocaters.

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by charlie264, Aug 16, 2011.

?

Definite Committed Interest in this bracket?

  1. 950 SE-R

  2. 990, 950 ADV

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  1. Terlingua

    Terlingua Terlingua

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2005
    Oddometer:
    247
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    Port lavaca Texas
    The new design, created by an engineer in Arizona, was not remotely similar to Terilinqua’s design and shared no common elements with it. The both served the same function – to protect the engine case - but that is where the similarity stopped.

    That like some one showing you how to build a fire, then you stack it a different way and say you came up with it.
    But if your way of thanking make you sleep better then fine.
    And yes you did say y'all was working on a new design but it was a month are are so after you said you was all most out of my Braces and was going to need some more soon. I told you at that time that I was all most out too and you got my last ten. I was under the the impression at that point all was good and made another hundred braces.
    But I guess that was my second mistake.
    This was just to clear things up. And the last time I will ever talk about it!

    Bruce
    #61
  2. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

    Joined:
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    Guys I got the first batch of my SE/ADVENTURE 9*0 side stand relocaters this afternoon. It had a final testing on ACP’s Adv 950 before powder coating. Thanks ACP, for all your help.

    Is practically the same as the steel SE plate and weighs 376 grams, but made to fit with the G-IT aftermarket sump guard and the standard Adventurer 9*0 sump guard. I havent tried with any other manufactures of sump guards yet but I see no reason why it will not fit. I found with the G-IT sump guard, when the rear fixing points are true and straight like new, there is a 1 – 1.5mm clearance both sides of the frame and the standard KTM sump guard has plenty of room between the rubber bungs and frame for the fixings to sit in the machined recess in this plate, the recess has been machined down to 1.8mm so effectively its the same thickness as a standard M10 washer under the mounting point on one side but it retains the three mounting points which is better, this has been tried and tested.

    This plate is made to function with a centre stand, so no centre stand, you will need a spacer/bush as with the standard SE plate, or you can just use a spacer from your own centre stand if you want to use your bike without a centre stand. Ive had some Marine Grade Stainless Steel Spacer/bush's made, they are identically in size as the KTM ones and can supply them, if you dont have a centre stand you will need a spacer, I think Stainless Steel is the best solution, I could have some cheaper ones made...but. Or you could buy the OEM hardened steel ones from KTM, part number 60003022021 for

    'http://www.ktm-parts.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=60003022021']one

    The plate is made from 6 mm thick steel and has double layer powder coated finish and comes with all the correctly shoulder bolts and nylock nuts needed. If you have the KTM sump guard, use the existing bolts and likewise for the G-IT, etc. If you have a standard SE without aftermarket sump guard, let me know and I’ll add the M8 bolt you'll need.

    If you are interested in one, please go to Vendors.

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=731769

    DSC00006.JPG [/U]
    #62
  3. ACP

    ACP Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    84
    Location:
    New Forest NP, Hampshire
    Looks good Charlie. Nice to see all your effort coming to fruition :clap
    #63
  4. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    Guys I finally got the SE relocters today, the plate is finished in a twin layer powder coating. The spacer bush is made from marine grade Stainless Steel, it is exactly the same size as the KTM one, and has been made to be directly compatible and interchangeable with the KTM centre stand, if you have one, but it won’t rust.
    I recommend the SS bush is still used without a centre stand. All the bolts are shouldered and cut to correct length so its just bolt up and go. I have left the M8 long, it can be shortened if needed.

    THIS IS FOR A STANDARD SE[/COLOR], If you have an aftermarket sump guard that uses the Adv mounting points, I will have the Adv relocaters hopefully next week. Or use washers to space the the plate to the aftermarket sump guard supports.

    The cost of this kit is £45 plus post and packaging. £5.50 for UK signed for and about £18.50 for USA signed for, other countries please PM me for detail.


    http://www.advrider.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=289630&d=1316449709
    #64
  5. hilslamer

    hilslamer 2XRedheadedstepchild

    Joined:
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    Any pictures of it installed?


    Not to criticize, but the correct name is "Adventure," not "Adventurer."
    #65
  6. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    On ACPs Bike, standard sump guard.

    ktm.JPG
    #66
  7. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    On ACPs Bike, G-IT sump guard, ACP takes a better photo than me.

    GIT.JPG
    #67
  8. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    #68
  9. Peanuts

    Peanuts Long timer

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    Beautiful but often rainy North Yorkshire, UK
    Looking good...... look forward to seeing one in the flesh :)
    #69
  10. ACP

    ACP Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2008
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    84
    Location:
    New Forest NP, Hampshire
    Now to get it dirty :D:D:D
    #70
  11. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    I’ve had quite a few people ask if this will fit with the 03-04 Adventure’s. It will fit but you need to remove about 5mm of the flange that sits like an inverted V. Or file a notch into the flange. Guys I can understand some reservations in doing this but if you cut the relocater to accommodate with, it will weaken it, if you remove part of the inverted V you are effectively just making the frame the same shape and size as the 05 frames onwards.
    07 Frame.

    frame1.JPG
    #71
  12. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    03 Frame with material removed for plate to fit. Cutting the plate here would cause a weak spot, this part of the frame is now the same as 05 onwards.

    frame2.JPG
    #72
  13. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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  14. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    On a SuperEnduro Rob's SE with centre stand and BD skid plate.

    083.jpg
    #74
  15. gefr

    gefr Life is a trip

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    There were several early bikes with cracked frames at exactly this spot. A crack developed that propagate to the centerstand mounting hole.

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=82334

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=70372

    The replacement frame had the corner made with bigger radius.
    Cheers.
    #75
  16. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    #76
  17. zedtours

    zedtours Been here awhile

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    491
    Location:
    Surrey
    I did not need to remove nearly as much as that.A little trim on footpeg webbing and a little of the plate! [03 ADV]
    #77
  18. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    I think gefr is wrong. All the reading and examples Ive have seen are nothing to do with the webbing, more likely the material thickness used by KTM and forces involved. There is a limit to how much webbing can be used. From an engineering stand point, irrespective of webbing, adding reinforcement here can only help.
    #78
  19. gefr

    gefr Life is a trip

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    The replacement frame I got had slightly bigger radius at the specific spot, no more material or anything else that I could see, changed. If thickness was slightly beefed up, I didn't see. The problem rose from the engine vibrations. If the sidestand bracket distributes these in a wider area, that is a plus. I just saw the grinding operation and thought I should bring up old memories.
    Cheers.
    #79
  20. leo_jb

    leo_jb -

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2011
    Oddometer:
    144
    Location:
    San Francisco, CA
    I got a new skid plate from Weld86, and decided to go with his sidestand relocation bracket as well. The bracket is a flat plate made of 1/4" aluminum that basically bolts up in the same location using longer fasteners. The plate is also longer and bolts to two additional locations as well - an unused threaded hole in the engine case (forward of the sidestand) and the centerstand pivot bolt. A spacer is required to utilize the threaded hole. After looking at the system, I decided it didn't add much. As others have reported, aluminum is 3 times more flexible than the steel (given the same dimensions), and flat plate is not very stiff to begin with. My conclusion is that the bolts through the original mount will be way stiffer than the aluminum bracket, and will likely crack under the same circumstances as if no bracket had been installed. I agree that for the relocation bracket to be effective, the original mounting holes shouldn't be used at all. Still, it can't hurt, right?

    Not so fast. I'm not thrilled with replacing the factory fasteners, which appear to be galvanized, with the Zinc plated/unplated bolts supplied with the relocation kit. I'm seriously considering going back to the stock setup.

    So a question for you all. I talked to our local mechanic, and he said the sidestand bracket/case cracking issue is only a problem if you mount your bike by standing on the pegs with the sidestand down. Someone else on this thread also mentioned this. so, can we eliminate the problem just by mounting the bike correctly?
    #80