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Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by LocuL, May 29, 2010.
Something from Australia??
Welding rod for the dreaded aqualines.
It is good to see your bike with the engine in it. It's really taking shape
Try to get photos of your mate welding them. That would be very interesting to see.
It's time for me to start thinking about a dash. Inspired by yours I will do something very similar.
I love the look of this Dakar Mini dash. I am getting ideas from it to combine with your shape and fitment.
My last dash was very basic. This time I want to excel......
Functional but very basic
And later....... That is realy a very usefull place to have the tacko. You loose a lot of time hitting the rev limmiter. It is in your vision while looking ahead at the road. It makes a huge difference
Yes it's an old rallye from 98-99. I've build in a new 640 engine as the old one was finished...as in really finished! New mikuni flat slide carb and a sxc exhaust and it's pretty much rideable. Clocked 140kmph on gravel yesterday so the old thing still works!
Now we are waiting for a playmate...
If u want to see a dash check out the new ducati pannigale(???). LCD brilliance. Better then my laptop screen. Not sure how it would hold up in a spill tho???
In another thread it was pointed out to me the limitations of not having a sealed air box especially in river crossings. So I got to thinking about it and realised that it was possible to modify the tank into a sealed air box.
There were two options available. The first was to join the top of the air filter area to the top of the tank. The beauty of this was the FCR roar would not be muffled by the fuel. An attractive proposition indeed.....
The second was to run tubes to the front of the tank, then flex tube into the faring where air scoops would catch the air..... pressurising the air box which from a performance point of view is preferred. It's like turbo charging, but much less. The effect is to lessen/overcome, power losses in the intake. A well known trick to car modifiers.
Although I love the FCR Raaaawwwwwwww...... I went as usual for power.
My air scoops will look like the 450 Rallies........... Perfect as my new screen is copied from the 450. It all should match up.
With the LC8 the fresh air comes through the grill. On the 450 the oil cooler lives there so there are two scoops directing fresh air towards the air box. Also worth noting is the position of the regulator/rectifier in the bottom photo. In the air stream !!!!
As I was about to finish off the tank building the air box was presenting problems. I had not designed for an air box so space and sealing was going to be difficult to retro design. So I opened the tank again and....
I made the tubes by wrapping some PVC pipe with 2 layers of Carbon. Then cut it both sides down the middle, popped the carbon, then wrapped with Darnell cloth. Darnell has a good finished texture holding a layer of Vinalester.
Love this bike
Are the 50mm extreme forks original to the rally bike? That bike looks like the real deal adventure bike. And it gets me looking at my 99 LC4-E and thinking "maybe a little fairing wouldn't look so bad"
As it was born...54 litres of fuel, a kickstart engine and a noisy exhaust....just a bike for Locul!
Is this the playmate??? for the other bike........... We don't get many rallys in Oz.
Or is this what it looked like originaly?
It's the look of my Rallye when I bought it 6 years ago. I have taken of the rear fuel tanks and changed the front one to a paintable one.
When the 1190 is finished we are going to the beach...
How long must we wait?
Big projects can take forever. I started mine last November. A group of us were planning a 2 week trip in the Bulldust (FeshFesh) of outback Oz. I wanted to remove weight from the front wheel. The trip was in April this year ....... I will be lucky to be ready for April next year. Fortunately wet weather has postponed this trip for a year.
I think you should safely put away your rally exhaust and rear tanks. These things are treasures for many people around the world who do not have access to them.
Nothing has happened on the bike. Work has taken my time, i have tried to cut my old tanks and made the countersinks were the radiator sits. I made it 50% succesful. The other went bad. To much curved details made it to difficult to get the layers sit tight. Process of learning. Though it isn´t my primary tanks(original) that i will use. I just tried to learn something about my limits around this wet layering. No more sharp corners. More thought to the primary cuts so the layering will meet less sharp corners.
As some of you know the aqualines is the primary choice. Safaritanks have not been super helpful, they shipped the welding rod. Kind if them but if they just have passed the plasticcode on to me right away, it would have been way easyer. Yesterday i took the trip to our plastc welder again. He laughed and asked if they(safaritank)have been more helpful. I said no. I showed him the welding rod and he tried to weld a small spot. Glued perfectly on. He mentioned that we still would need some more material when making the room for the radiator and oilcooler. He cut cm´s of the weldingrod and send it of to some plastic analyzer. They will determine the "code" and we buy our own raw material.
Yes this is taking some time and the learning curve is steep some times. Next week i will try get the exhaust and the rest of the electrical wiring done.
Ahh nothing may have happened but you're trying something that most of us never would have even attempted. Do you realize that you're closer to being done than not? Fix the tanks, slap them on, and fire it up. May not be perfect but it'll be close enough for the time being.
Katoom119: Thanks for the kind words.
Some pictures from the past week with the good and bad stuff.
I may have done some wrong stuff here. It cured SO fast that it heated up and begun smoking. Ofcourse some of you clever heads understands the process, i didn´t. Placed it outside and never used glass anymore.
Not for the beauty, but i could make the rear panels strong and way more resistant for tear and abuse.
FYI: It was the big hole that went good. It pissed out of the smaller one. Needless to say that the cornering was bad for my skillset. Though it CAN be done. Just have to take it off again. Then use some of this fine chopped strand mat. My thoughts are it will take the corners way better. The glass i used here was some leftovers, 350gr i think a bit to heavy as it won´t sit tight in the corners. But no matter what my fail and will be better next time. It is very skill-sharpening to fool around with these tanks and the epoxy. No turning back as the cut has been made. Actually Søren(640 rally) made a pretty succes full weld with two tank parts i´ve cut out of mine. Didn´t look nice but the bound was strong. But impossible to do in the tight areas.
Have a nice weekend.
The resin's curing process develops heat, because it is deep in the cup it sets of a chain reaction of heat > cure which makes more heat> more cure> more more heat> more more cure until it smokes
You might have added a little to much MEKP..... Probably
If that cup is made of glass you are lucky it did not explode in your hand taking it out:eek1 If you
Im guessing your using epoxy due to the clarity which will give off a higher exotherm when it cures, especially in a tight mass like in the glass. If you had the same amount in a wider container like an ice cream tub then it would go off slower as there isnt as concentrated a mass as there is in the glass. Same amount just stored differently.
General rule of thumb is to mix 2 x the weight in resin as the glass you are using. (You need to weigh the glass of course). 2:1 is the general amount of resin you will need to wet out the glass in a hand layed laminate. If you want to slow the geltime you can also cool the resin in a fridge or snow in your case but not too much so you cannot use it because it becomes too thick.
Bikes looking good - great project. I think a set of black tanks at the back would look good........
Pete: Thanks for the info. The 2 x 1 is spot on.
Some steps from the last couple of days.
Well had a "chance" to redo the fail from before.
I have recieved my order at a German company regarding new fibres and resins. 80 gr is pretty light weight but will give some fantastic detailing when wet working.
Crossing my fingers that this will work. A bit more brain to the details this time.
The air bubbles did get out...
Last layer. Waited 2 hours for this one. I was sure to get a perfect fit when the resin is super "taggy".
Approx. 8 layers of the 80 gr.
It fecking FITS. I´ve put gas in it this night to test it. So far so good.
Oh did some testing to see how much the other would be needing...sheeskebab.
No adjustment needed any more.
Got a package this day.
My NEW airfilter. ITG Airfilters, I of course went with the "sausage" model on the baseplate JC30.
The coolness about this is that you can choose a baseplate to customize for your self. Perfect in this project.
Packed with RC8R
If the tank keeps tight untill tomorrow i have solution with my original tanks. A bit of trackday, sundayblast bike. And furthere more, only exhaust keeps me from fitting the lambdas...oh the lambda( Bazzaz kit neglects the 2 original and only use 1). And we are closer to engine test start.
Nice looking air filter assembly.
It appears that ITG's website lists a filter (assembly?) for the KTM 950 Adventure, 950 Superenduro, and 950 Supermoto, as part #HMP-747.
Is this the part you ordered, and if not, why did you not choose this item?
Will the ITG filter be the hot new air filter assembly that doesn't (I ASSUME) require you to modify your seat pan, unlike the 950 Rottweiler Intake System (shown below)?