Ural paint...2 steps below Testors model paint...

Discussion in 'Hacks' started by Spicy McHaggis, Jun 29, 2008.

  1. Spicy McHaggis

    Spicy McHaggis Darth Peach's cracker...

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    Good lord, you LEAN on the paint on one of these motos and it comes off onto your arm.

    I just spent a good hour washing the Arctic, after the run up the Dempster to the Arctic Circle. They spread pure calcium cloride onto the road, then go over it with a water truck, THEN they mix it in with a grader...all to keep the dust down.

    Problem is - it gets literally EVERYWHERE. I'm quite sure my Ural will rust to pieces before I get it paid off in 2 years.

    The springs on the shocks are missing paint - and there was nothing rubbing on them.

    So far, that's the only big drawback I've seen with this thing - it's eagerness to rust (who posted the thread with the totally rusted out Ural???) and the shitty paint.
    #1
  2. drrider1

    drrider1 just running amuck

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    they are what they are............now break oy that flat black rattle can and get busy:evil
    #2
  3. eastbloc

    eastbloc comprador bourgeois

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    My whole damn Ural owes its handsomeness to a rattle can.

    [​IMG]

    You should have seen what that thing looked like after eight years of being driven daily and not washed in the salty mid-Atlantic states!
    #3
  4. uraldog

    uraldog vagabond

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    hey Spicey , get youself a can of spray oil [not WD 40 ] and spray all the welds and any where two or more pieces of metal come together [ you really should have done that before riding in the calcium ] this will help delay the rust and corrosion factor till you can strip and repaint --the paint on the Retros aint to good either, that was one bitch I've had from day one too :stfu
    #4
  5. P B G

    P B G Long timer

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    POR 15, the stuff works great.

    I use it alot on car frames, where anytime i'm under and I see a spot of rust I wire brush till nothing is loose, por 15 primer, followed by rubberized frame paint for aesthetics.

    On a bike, i'd wire wheel rust, por 15, then paint of choice. As mentioned if you really want long term paint you'll need to redo it. Powdercoat is more durable for offroad environment.
    #5
  6. redflasher

    redflasher Baltika Lover

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    Anything that isn't painted will rapidly corrode also. I don't know if it is zinc plated or what but everything on my GearUp that isn't chrome-carb tops, caliper mounting, 2wd rod, etc have been etched by a few exposures to Minnesota winter salt.

    And the chrome ain't that great either.


    Bob in Minnesota
    2006 GearUP
    #6
  7. SandHog

    SandHog Adventurer

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    Here in Florida the salt air seems to attack any surface not thick with piant. I have been slowly picking at the Patrol with OD Rustoleum every time I work on something. I found the front fender starting to rust through. Green is good...At least you don't have to sand down the Rooskie Chrome before painting.

    Attached Files:

    #7
  8. MooseKiller

    MooseKiller Tripod

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    Anyone use RhinoLiner (or similar such bed liner type thing) to "repaint" their Ural? I'd figure that would be the best upgrade...
    #8
  9. Spicy McHaggis

    Spicy McHaggis Darth Peach's cracker...

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    I'm going to do the Herculiner bed liner stuff on the inside of the car...might do it on the bottom of it as well...

    #9
  10. LadyDraco

    LadyDraco KillerSmileIHazIt !!

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    I'm get ready to put that stuff on my Trikes Fenders...
    My fenders chip big time ....:cry
    #10
  11. frederickflintsone

    frederickflintsone Flaming Misanthrope

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    you are realy insulting testors model paint by associating it with ural paint.
    testors works quite well on plastic.
    the company I work for is building a plant in russia, and the horror stories I am hearing from my co workers going there, you just wouldnt believe. the quality that they get in everyday goods is far less than the quality of the cheap chinese goods we get at walmart. having worked in the auto engineering field, I have a grasp of production costs, and I just cant justify any reason for the list price of a 2008 gear up to be as high as it is.
    they are charging a super premium price for a sub-standard product.
    #11
  12. Spicy McHaggis

    Spicy McHaggis Darth Peach's cracker...

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    While I agree with you in principle, I will defend the Urals and their newer, higher costs.

    Other than a few "minor" issues, it is not a sub-standard product. German made gears. Nippon-Denso alternator (770 watts, baby!!!). Keihin carbs. Brembo disc brake up front. Ducati ignition system.

    And the #1 reason they can justify the higher price - they are the ONLY gig in town that makes motorcycles as sidecars from design to finish. With 2-wheel drive. And reverse.

    The supply has always been lesser than the demand. To my knowledge, they haven't had problems selling every moto they've brought into the US of A.

    Would I pay the additional price? Damn right I would.

    Now...if they would just find some better paint...! :ricky

    #12
  13. Ivan Rider

    Ivan Rider Been here awhile

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    Yep. I've had Rino Liner and LineX along with the paint your own type from Pep Boys. LineX has a ruffer finish, only comes in Black but is not bothered by Gas spills. Rino comes in any color you want and has a smoother duller finish but is affected by Gas spills. The paint your own is much cheaper but didn't look near as good. I prefer LineX.

    I've 6 rigs done on the inside and one done inside and outside. It works great and makes them indistructable inside.
    #13
  14. frederickflintsone

    frederickflintsone Flaming Misanthrope

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    this is the only reason they are still selling now.

    with the caveate that I dont own one, I still say they are an inferior product and not up to world standards, part of there apeal is the nostagia. they make a modern 1950's bike.
    HD makes a wonderful 1940's bike and they also sell everyone they make.

    compare a $14,000 (msrp) ural to a $17,000 (msrp) BMW GS and there is realy no comparision (sidecar asside). the BMW GS has taken 1930 engine design to well beyound modern world standards.


    when your pike is paid for, strip it down, have all the metal sandblasted then spray it with an epoxy primer. (uesualy a gray-green) to start and then get out the flat camo paint and go to town
    #14
  15. chappy

    chappy Porkchop Sandwiches

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    While I was more interested just a few years ago when a Patrol was more like $10k instead of $14k I would still get one if I had the extra cash now. I think the fun I would have would far out weigh what I was paying.

    HD's bike are not faithful reacreations of the bikes they mimic the way the Ural and Royal Enfields are but then the HD probably is way more reliable. If you are buying a Ural expecting it to be a HD type experience you would be heading in the wrong direction I would think.

    I agree it would be nice if someone would make a modern bike designed as a hack rig but it probably will never happen.





















    :hide P.S. Do the Ural's have the $17k dollar BMW's final drive issues :D
    #15
  16. eastbloc

    eastbloc comprador bourgeois

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    That's not a fair assessment. You're off by at least twenty years: overhead valves, disc brakes, CV carbs, electronic ignition, electric start.

    What, pray tell, makes a modern Harley-Davidson a 1940s bike? The fact that it's a V-twin, or the fact that Harley-Davidson made V-twins in the 1940s?

    So is the GS is a 1930s bike? :lol3

    I do agree that Ural prices are a bit steep, but they don't have the economy of scale working in their favor the way BMW does. BMW will sell more GSes this year than Ural sold bikes in the US over the entire time they've been in business on our shores. Many of the improvements to the bike over recent years are sourced from the outside, and have to be paid for with hard currency.

    What's encouraging is the fact that there aren't that many late-model Urals ending up on the used market, which tells me the owners must be happy!
    #16
  17. tony the tiger

    tony the tiger Long timer

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    How's about a nice cuppa' :stfu ?

    Hey Ivan Rider - is the lined surface uncomfortably rough for passengers? I'd wondered about that, and, having already spot painted some rust spots on the interior of my tub, am considering re-working it sometime in the future... Inquiring minds want to know... Been considering the POR 15, myself.
    #17
  18. LadyDraco

    LadyDraco KillerSmileIHazIt !!

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    Can I make it look nice ??? If I take my time and put a few layers on???
    Or is it going to look like crap !!!
    #18
  19. claude

    claude Sidecar Jockey

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    Another option worth considering is to powdercoat the body. We do our Freedom Steel bodies this way and it seems to work out well. Black and white are standard colors. Other colors are possible. For camo one can do a base color of , say, Olive drab or tan or whatever and then highlight with flat paint of other colors over the powdercoat. This makes a very duarable finish.
    The concern with an existing body of course would be how much, if any, body filler may have been put into it initially or at some point. The body would have to be blasted down to clean metal. Powdercoating requires 400 degrees to set it.
    Checking with local powdercoating shops may be worth a shot.

    The bodies pictured below are 2" wider than standard. Standard bodies are very close to the same size as a Ural.http://freedomsidecars.com/sidecars/steel_series.htm

    [​IMG]
    #19
  20. eisenmann

    eisenmann nOOd

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    Denton, Texas
    I've owned Beemers. They're smooth and German and all that. Try doing some simple maintenance compared to a Ural. OK, for three grand more you can get a GS. How much is that replacement computer? Piston?
    Shit! Mirror?
    Own one, hell just ride one before you spout off some "facts"... you will see.
    Don't make me say i told you so.
    #20