ural performance mods...

Discussion in 'Hacks' started by snoid, Jan 9, 2008.

  1. snoid

    snoid 100% Okie

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    have you hole-sawed yer pipe?

    punched holes in the airbox and rejetted?

    was it worth it?
    #1
  2. Rad

    Rad Done riding

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    Ural :lol3

    Performance :lol3

    Mods....:jack
    #2
  3. mac62

    mac62 One more thin gypsy thief

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    I think they go like hell with a chainsaw motor mounted on them.

    I keed, I keed. I'm actually thinking of treating myself to a nice side valve Chang when I get back stateside this summer...I think Briggs & Stratton have a performance kit for it. :kbasa
    #3
  4. wyowillys46

    wyowillys46 Petrosexual.

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    Oxymoron

    But seriously, even if you could just tack on another 20 hp, the transmission and final drive can't deal with it. They're already at their limits.
    #4
  5. RedMenace

    RedMenace Adventure Sidecar

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    well that will make it louder...

    not a smart mod, but a common one:rofl

    You want to make a Ural faster on a budget, lose some weight and get rid of the windscreens.
    #5
  6. Gummiente

    Gummiente Rebel Without A Clue

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    Anything you can do to build on the measly stock 42hp is be a good thing and will make an appreciable difference in the low to mid-range, which is where the Ural is meant to run at.

    Hole sawing the mufflers - not recommended, but it is a better idea than ramming a spike through them. You will realise more power gains by going to an aftermarket muffler, such as the Dunstall replicas, with the required re-jetting to the carbs.

    Punch holes in the airbox - really not sure what you mean by that and I probably don't want to know. Anway, the Ural's airbox setup is a little unorthodox in that air is drawn from the scoop underneath (on '06 and later models, a hole on the top lid for '05 and earlier) through the inside of the filter to the outside. This means the maximum intake hole you can have is one that is slightly smaller than the ID of the air filter itself; if you punch holes all over the airbox body then you are bypassing the air filter. Not good. Enlarging the stock intake hole will have a tendancy to slow down the intake airspeed - which is good - but will also expose the air filter to more roadspray, rain, salt and slush - which is bad. The best thing you can do with the stock airbox is to invest in a high flow, oiled filter element like a K&N and rejet the carbs to suit.

    There's really not much else that can be done to improve performance on these motors, save for porting the heads. Other than that, you need to consider things like reducing wind resistance by removing the billboard sized sidecar windshield, spare tire and carrier, lightening the ballast load in the trunk and going on a diet.

    Really, the Ural isn't meant to be a performance machine in the first place. I's all about torque and as such is designed to be loaded up and flogged through the undergrowth, with an occasional side trip to chase a squirrel up a tree.
    #6
  7. snoid

    snoid 100% Okie

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    so the filter on a gear up is just hanging out there?

    looks like i might be doing mr. cob's snorkel mod,

    me

    p.s. how about a hayabusa motor? will it fit?
    #7
  8. McB

    McB Joe 40 ouncer

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    Maybe a Subaru.
    #8
  9. snoid

    snoid 100% Okie

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    and a 35" swamper bogger on the back....

    me
    #9
  10. Gummiente

    Gummiente Rebel Without A Clue

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    Technically, the inlet scoop being relocated to the bottom means the filter is hanging down there. Mr Cob's mod is a good solution and can be done at home if you're fairly handy with tools and a welder. I went in a different direction by designing, fabricating and relocating my own airbox. It uses an automotive air filter with nearly three times the surface area of the stock round unit.
    #10
  11. snoid

    snoid 100% Okie

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    i'll have to take a look at it.... i'll come up with something.
    #11
  12. princess jamaica

    princess jamaica OLD DOG-NEW TRICKS

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    THAT'S FUNNY:lol3 :lol3 :lol3
    #12
  13. JohnBG

    JohnBG Slow Moving Three Wheeler

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    I re-jetted the carbs with some fatter jets, plopped in a K&N filter and replaved the exhausets with some more free-flowing pipes.

    It helped a little, but far from what most might consider "performance modifications". :lol3

    Perfomance Modifications? - Dood it's a Ural. It pretty much is what it is. :1drink
    #13
  14. Threewheelbonnie

    Threewheelbonnie Long timer

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    My Triumph electrical gremlins (now sorted see here https://sites.google.com/site/threewheelbonnienonbike/the-elefant-2010/the-repairs ) plus the Ural bashing thread got me thinking about Urals. Back in 2000 I had a 650 whose **** construction meant that in 2004-7 when I put the Triumph-Ural together I wouldn't touch anything Russian that couldn't be fixed/improved. Looking now there would only be two things holding me back, price (£9000 in the UK for a basic 1 WD) and the cruising speed. I remembered this thread.

    So (without any "shove it off a cliff" comments please, and no I don't get enough holiday to slow down to 55 and enjoy the ride), if I want that Holy Grail 75 mph Ural what would I need to do?

    Bore out to 1000CC?
    Fit a BMW or Subaru engine?
    Will this destroy the gearbox (makes the whole thing pointless if you lose reverse)?
    Are Ural making any noises along the lines of understanding parts of the market want motorway speeds?
    If I drop the 75 mph ask, can I get 65 all day by head/carb mods?

    As the Triumph is now once again fixed there is no rush for me to do any of this, but I'd still be interested to hear if it's possible or if I need to wait for the 2015 model.

    Andy
    #14
  15. SamM

    SamM Jeep Overlander

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    Why does this seem to be the ongoing theme of the Hacks Section of AdvRider? The bike is not made for that! It doesn't need performance mods because, it's not a performance bike. I'm all for making it better though. It's made for utility. To do things that other bikes can't do. Get you where a normal motorcycle can't go or won't go and in weather that others will not go out in.

    You guys crack me up!

    SamM
    #15
  16. DaFoole

    DaFoole Well Marbled...

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    So far for me, the most cost effective and simple Ural performance modification has been to be at the top of a big hill with a nice, long down hill straight....







    :1drink
    #16
  17. windmill

    windmill Long timer

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    Yes, and no.

    My 07 will do 65 all day 2 up and packed for a trip, but long steep hills will slow it down to 50-55. The 2010's will hold their speed better on the hills.

    For folks that need to have more performance, A dealer, Raceway services is working on a big bore kit. http://www.racewayservices.com/raceway/accessories.shtml#performance

    Like others have said, if going from A to B fast is Your priority, there are better options than a Ural.
    #17
  18. IsAnOzzie

    IsAnOzzie Been here awhile

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    Other than re jetting, modtop exhaust or similar, K&N air filter. I think thats about the limit for the Ural as far as performance is concerned, as Windmill said Raceway do a 860cc big bore kit but I think the drivetrain might have trouble coping with that.
    If you are after better performance look at another bike, much less hassle.
    The 2010 heads have the ports polished from the factory for improved flow over the cast finish, I am not sure of the gains but its a lot of work.
    #18
  19. Montague

    Montague UDF Adventurer

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    an alternate universe, much better than yours
    Put your $ into reliability and fun/function mods (think hand shifter and some other Raceway toys), performance is not something you will get much gain in.

    Let's see, if I spend $1000 to get a 10% increase, that gives me 46 HP.......

    Naw, I will put that into gas, food and interesting trips, albiet at a sedate pace.

    :1drink
    #19
  20. vortexau

    vortexau Outside the Pod-bay

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    Maybe swap in a Citroën BFG motor?
    http://www.citroenet.org.uk/miscellaneous/bfg/bfg.htm
    http://www.cats-citroen.net/citroen_features/bfg/index.html

    [​IMG]

    A wooping big cooling fan sits behind front intake. The header pipes sensibly exit from the under cylinder, whereas VW & Subaru are on front & back.
    #20