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Discussion in 'The Rockies – It's all downhill from here...' started by frog, May 22, 2008.
You just lowered the our state IQ coming from Idaho. Guess you will fit right in.
You'll need to buy either a 10 year old KLR (no, the DL doesn't count) or a KTM and drink the koolaid........
I was kinda hoping to gloss over that fact...
How ya been Flashmo, are you still building Fly Rods?
Still at it...just a change of scenery.
not sure if you remember this but I finally got around to the fork oil and seal change. PO claimed that the forks were recently serviced, pretty much no way that could be true. clips keeping fork seals in were rusty, OEM KTM seals likely from new, and the oil was molasses-like and full of contaminants. So basically oil was completely toast. All changed up and feeling great and nice and soft and plush. Installed SFK seals with Judy Butter (a mountain bike fork lube specifically designed for seals). It also wasn't bottoming out because it turned out I have either .46 or .48 (my guess is .48) springs in there already from the PO. Just the poor small bump compliance because the oil was shot. So very basic, excited to see how it works out. I also did 120mm oil level and 5 weight mostly because this is what I had lying around, but took your advice sorta / close to it...
Glad it sorta worked.KTM usually has very high quality fork oil and it takes a long time for it to get that bad.Do not remember the year of your bike but if it is pre 08 when you change the oil again[soon] you might want to take out the 3rd bushing which is the aluminum sleeve that is about 2 inches around and 7 inches long in the middle of the fork.Much better bump compliance.If the fork oil was that bad the shock oil for sure needs help.Have you serviced the shock yet? Mark from Idaho coming to Utah this weekend to raise the IQ average! [for Pluric]
thx mung and right on.. Bike is a 2010. Rear shock was completely serviced in the fall, it has a racetech nitrogen cartridge in it instead of the stock valving system. Rear feels awesome right now and hasn't needed any work other than fresh nitrogen and fluid...
The only issue I'm "feeling" right now (and I remember you had some good comments about this) is it appears to be about .48 or .46 springs up front, and then the PDS-4 in the rear which is a 8.5kg to 11. The rear spring came from the back of my RFS bike and felt great on this bike, possibly even under-sprung on underneath my 235 lbs.
When I switched it over to the 2010 I was aware of the leverage ratio change and the same spring feels much stiffer. It actually feels pretty good, and I'm happy with it, but it also feels like it is driving too much into the front suspension. Some of it might be me, some of it might be getting used to the new style frame with different front steering handling (and I really like the precision of the handling), and some might even be setting the rear sag lower. So that's what I've done as of right now as the next step, basically drop the rear sag in the rear to see what happens. I'm also considering going to stiffer front springs like a .50 or .52 possibly to see if that helps, and/or finally going to a lighter spring in the rear. I remember you were saying the PDS-4 was good under your weight on the later bikes?
I know exactly where you were. We hit it after a little rain. Immediately it was like we were sliding across a few inches of soft butter. The guy in front of me had on new Dunlop 606s and when I saw him suddenly with no control I knew we were in trouble.
My brother barely missed hitting me from behind. Other guys piled up. One broken rib, one cracked, and a handful of broken things on bikes. The guy on the green KLR said he bent his frame.
If it is 235 ready to ride then the pds 4 will give you about the right bike sag[115-120 mm] and rider sag[135-140mm]with about 6-8 mm of preload. I had .52 in my dunes bike but it is unridable anywhere else it is so stiff.Before I would try stiffer springs in front I would put the fork tubes all the way down to the top of the fork cap to raise the front end a little.Then try using 2.5 wt. fork oil at 130mm from the top.That way you get plusher action on the little stuff and even with the lighter fork oil it will stiffen up more toward the end of the travel.Then try going to my lower sag numbers[120mm and 140mm].The pds 4 has plenty of stiffness to keep it from bottoming.
Ryman and I are heading out for a Fri/Sat/Sun ride, camping off the bikes... He'll be on his 690 and I on the 520... No solid route yet, but maybe through the swell and down through the cynlnds maze district to beef basin and up through Lockhart basin, then back through dubinky to the swell again... not quite sure...
Let's ride bitches!
I think I am doing the White Rim next Sunday with some work buddies on BADBs if you guys want to join up?
Will be in Moab 25-28 Apr for some slick rock and other shenanigans. Going to introduce my little brother to the Moab riding area.
I remember that.
Jordan River trials on 4-22.Pouring rain and clay soil were a great mix.Two experts finally braved the conditions and could not make it through novice sections.It was pure slop.Meet is rescheduled for May 4.
Not exactly sure where we'll be, but maybe we'll crash your campsite!
wish I could make it Kev and Ryman, likely hung up next weekend yet again. Spring riding so far is zero...
It was a little muddy. My kid road around in the grass then we went out to Elberta. It was dry and sunny. We should have moved the event out there. :)
Sent from my DROID RAZR
Leaving after work... around 6 on Saturday from SLC heading to Moab. White Rim and back home Sunday.