Vaquero

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by tricepilot, Nov 19, 2008.

  1. tricepilot

    tricepilot El Gran Payaso

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2006
    Oddometer:
    9,613
    Location:
    San Antonio
    I walk these streets, a loaded six string on my back

    I play for keeps, cause I might not make it back
    I been everywhere, still I'm standing tall
    Ive seen a million faces an I've rocked them all

    I'm a cowboy, on a steel horse I ride
    I'm wanted dead or alive
    I'm a cowboy, I got the night on my side
    I'm wanted dead or alive
    Wanted dead or alive<SCRIPT type=text/javascript> GA_googleFillSlot("lyricsfreak-300x50-btf");</SCRIPT><SCRIPT src="http://partner.googleadservices.com/gampad/ads?correlator=1227102347732&output=json_html&callback=_GA_googleAdEngine.setAdContentsBySlotForSync&impl=s&prev_afc=2&client=ca-pub-5863942981704561&slotname=lyricsfreak-300x50-btf&page_slots=lyricsfreak-728x90-atf%2Clyricsfreak-300x50-atf-2%2Clyricsfreak-300x50-btf&cust_params=&cookie=ID%3Db750896d5ce5fd2a%3AT%3D1227094678%3AS%3DALNI_Ma0nm6tn8gJzMbr91-lpPSkj-4OQQ&ga_vid=191918065.1227094679&ga_sid=1227102348&ga_hid=2014133990&ga_fc=true&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lyricsfreak.com%2Fb%2Fbon%2Bjovi%2Fwanted%2Bdead%2Bor%2Balive_20022260.html&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2Fsearch%3Fhl%3Den%26q%3Dwanted%2Bdead%2Bor%2Balive%2Blyrics%26aq%3D2%26oq%3Dwanted%2Bdead%2Bor%2B&lmt=1227102348&dt=1227102348147&oe=utf-8&u_h=900&u_w=1600&u_ah=870&u_aw=1600&u_cd=32&u_tz=-360&u_his=2&u_java=true&u_nplug=0&u_nmime=0&flash=9.0.124.0"></SCRIPT>


    - Bon Jovi

    Welcome back my friends, to another México ride report Tricepilot-style!

    I left San Antonio a few weeks ago for my longest, and strangest, trip into México yet.

    I'm going to tell you how I got bucked off my steel horse between Guadalajara and Puerto Vallarta, and lived to tell the tale.

    I took over 1,700 photos, among them the following...

    The deep, rich colors of San Migel de Allende

    [​IMG]

    The glowing arch of Santiago

    [​IMG]

    Sugar candies in el centro of Dolores Hildalgo

    [​IMG]

    And more friendly, smiling faces like this one in Amatitán!

    [​IMG]

    Vamanos, if you can stay on!

    [​IMG]

    Bob :jose

    <SCRIPT src="http://www.lyricsfreak.com/adspace.php" type=text/javascript></SCRIPT>
    #1
  2. Flying Turtle

    Flying Turtle Flying Turtle

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2008
    Oddometer:
    113
    Location:
    BMW Mexico National Moto Club
  3. Pedro Navaja

    Pedro Navaja Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,564
    Location:
    USA
    Hey Roberto El Loco! This is your amigo Mike in Clear Lake from TWT. I am watching you :lurk :D
    #3
  4. BoatRide

    BoatRide n00b?????

    Joined:
    Aug 11, 2008
    Oddometer:
    20
    Location:
    only a steamship can get to these mountains.
    looks like another great ride report about to unfold. any suggestions on good "motorcycle" maps and/or gps routes for Mexico. Trying to plan a trip to east side sea cortez and over to baja but no bueno mapas.
    #4
  5. akadvntr

    akadvntr Frozen

    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    225
    Location:
    Anchorage, Alaska
    Looking forward to this!
    #5
  6. GB

    GB . Administrator

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2002
    Oddometer:
    61,697
    Oh ya!! Vamonos! :thumb

    :lurk
    #6
  7. tricepilot

    tricepilot El Gran Payaso

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2006
    Oddometer:
    9,613
    Location:
    San Antonio
    This was the fourth (or fifth?) time running Mexico since leaving the Air Force in the fall of '06. I loved ending up in San Antonio to be near the border - its just a few hours to Laredo and you're across the river.

    The idea of this trip was to join up with a mixed bag of crazies who wanted to spend two weeks in Mexico, centered around the Mexico BMW rally in Guadalajara and Puerto Vallarta. The rally was only to be a little over 4 days in a 15 day adventure.

    I'll get to it in sequence, but I crashed between Guadalajara and Puerto Vallarta. I crashed under "the best of circumstances", which I will go into detail later.

    A few days before the low-side in the mountains...

    [​IMG]

    If you crash in Mexico, you just pull the bent and broken pieces off of the motorcycle, and duct tape and zip tie the rest, and press on. That's what was done with the help of Hank, expert BMW wrench, who was (fortunately) on scene at the rally and our informal "lets go here" guy.

    [​IMG]

    The two weeks took the rough form of this outline, crossing at Nuevo Laredo, and driving south through

    Monterrey
    Santiago
    Galeana
    San Luis Potosi
    San Miguel de Allende
    Guadalajara
    Puerto Vallarta
    Playa Azul
    Patzcuaro
    Guanajuato
    Matejuala

    [​IMG]

    We were able to figure out how they obtained the fruit of the agave in Amatitan, just west of Guadalajara. It isn't any more difficult than this...

    [​IMG]

    We were able to find fairly cheap places to stay, such as this place in Patzcuaro...

    [​IMG]

    So I'll begin the tale of these recent two weeks in Mexico - the land of true enchantment. A few thousand miles, one bent and broken motorcycle, a mix of beautiful cities and towns, and of course, some really great riding partners and the friendly, smiling people of Mexico!
    #7
  8. Lobby

    Lobby Viel Spass, Vato!

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2003
    Oddometer:
    29,841
    Location:
    San Antonio, Tx
    :lurk

    BTW, it's Miguel, not Migel. I'm gonna learn you some Spanish. :deal

    :D
    #8
  9. intothenew

    intothenew Briar Patch Navigator

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,141
    Location:
    Almost Heaven
    :lurk
    #9
  10. kennyanc

    kennyanc Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2005
    Oddometer:
    2,342
    Location:
    Asheville, NC
    :lurk






    Kenny
    #10
  11. divingbiker

    divingbiker True Blue Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2004
    Oddometer:
    196
    Location:
    Louisiana Gulf Coast
    Cant wait :jive Post on my brother!
    #11
  12. Kodanja

    Kodanja Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2005
    Oddometer:
    710
    Location:
    Boise, Idaho
    :thumb Looking forward to this as I'm currently planning my trip to Mex this Feb '09.
    #12
  13. tricepilot

    tricepilot El Gran Payaso

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2006
    Oddometer:
    9,613
    Location:
    San Antonio
    [​IMG]

    por supuesto que si! Can't disappoint you OR Sarah Palin!!!
    Remember, Mexico in February, Miguel...

    Yes - here are my map suggestions:

    (1) Guia Roji products: Take along the "standard" size "Por Las Carreteras de Mexico" as well as the larger "Gran Atlas de Carreteras"

    (2) Definitely Definitely Definitely have a "typical" highway map of Mexico in a visible tank bag or map holder. Something that you don't have to get out at a highway intersection.

    (3) Optional: GPS. I have a Zumo plus Bicimapas. I typically use these for situational awareness in Mexico - not for my sole source of Navigation information. The latest version of Bicimapas, while not perfect, is miles ahead of the previous versions and excellent for orientation. It worked very well in all of the major cities I was in.

    Edit: I just found out this morning that Bicimapas is doing a huge update for 2009 - information here:

    Bicimapas 2009

    (4) Get a large wall map of Mexico and some push pins for planning purposes. Read lots of Mexico ride reports and make friends with folks like Gustavo and Dan (DTop1), who are, like, gurus of Mexico.

    Wait until we light up San Miguel with color saturation bombing photography

    Time to leave the Great Snowy North, mi hermano - Leo says so!
    :deal dedos gordos :cob

    That's what the new pres has to say along that line:

    [​IMG]

    More corn is popping guys. Kenny, I am shipping you my KLR for an overhaul. You can do it.

    Do tell where you are going. The Tricepilot Express is doing a Mexico '09 Indiana Jones and the Temples of the Yucatan Tour - watch for it.
    #13
  14. Andres A

    Andres A FINDING NEMO

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2008
    Oddometer:
    242
    Location:
    McAllen, TX, TAMAULIPAS Y PUNTOS CIRCUNVECINOS
    Carta Blanca ,Yea the right choice, if some day, across the border on Reynosa, send us a pm, Bienvenido Amigo:freaky.

    [​IMG]
    #14
  15. SgtNapalm

    SgtNapalm ADV'er

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2004
    Oddometer:
    279
    Location:
    S.W. Fla
    Looks like another good one tpilot, my monitor almost exploded with that Full Spectrum of Candy colors, nice shots.
    I gotta move to texas so I can be closer to the border.

    Colors, Pow!
    <img src="http://tricepilot.smugmug.com/photos/420311860_thxmF-L-1.jpg">

    -sgt
    #15
  16. tricepilot

    tricepilot El Gran Payaso

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2006
    Oddometer:
    9,613
    Location:
    San Antonio
    It seems the GS is always pointed to Mexico. I live only about 2 miles from I-35 and I-35 takes me straight to Laredo in a little more than 2 hours.

    [​IMG]

    Those bright yellow bags are from Ortleib. This was the first trip that I've used them. Now, my heated vest, jacket, shoes, bike cover go in there and this leaves plenty of room in the panniers for stuff that needs to be locked away. The Orliebs are waterproof, easy to open and close, and attached securely to the bike with 2-each pull straps through loops on top of the panniers. Ortlieb bags get a big...

    [​IMG]

    Also for the first time on a motorcycle trip, I took along the SPOT messanger, which worked flawlessly all over Mexico.

    [​IMG]

    The lithium batteries lasted the two weeks, and probably would have lasted longer if I was on a longer trip. My family and pals were able to log onto the SPOT website and track my travel in real time. This thing flew out of the cradle and slid down the road when I low-sided the bike (story forthcoming). I didn't turn it back on until Puerto Vallarta, and it worked like always. I love the SPOT, and so does my wife, so it gets a big...

    [​IMG]

    Almost literally at the other end of I-35 in Laredo is this place:

    [​IMG]

    This was the jumping off place on a Friday night. It is literally on the river in Laredo, right between the bridges, and has excellent secure parking under the hotel, a bunch of courtyards and pools, and a good restaurant. However, I wouldn't eat at the restaurant the next time, because it would be more fun and very easy to walk across to Nuevo Laredo and try a restaurant there.

    A regular Motley Crue of BMW riders met in the morning for breakfast, including these two characters:

    [​IMG]

    Big Jim has over 60 trips into Mexico and is a guide for Motodiscovery.

    Hank is a BMW mechanic and was taking some of his shop customers on a loop into Mexico to include the Mexico rally at Guadalajara and Puerto Vallarta. Why not go along? So I did.

    It was Hank who wrenched my GSA back into riding condition in a parking lot in Puerto Vallarta after the crash. His skills and my tools, duct tape, zip ties saved the trip.

    By the way, when Big Jim isn't riding Mexico, he's the back up center for the San Antonio Spurs.

    Jim has a GSA like mine, but with a different set of bags...

    [​IMG]

    Saturday morning we crossed at Nuevo Laredo (no drug cartels, no shootouts, no bad karma of any kind) and crossed.

    [​IMG]

    Here is a major...

    [​IMG]

    THE COLOMBIA BRIDGE.

    See that green arrow? Cross in the city TO Mexico all you want, the lines are in the other direction. When you LEAVE Mexico, follow the red arrow at the Colombia bridge. The time it takes to cruise over there pays you back because there was NOBODY there when I left Mexico two weeks later.

    I don't think it is a needed diversion going into Mexico, but you'll love it leaving there. I think I'd still be in line if I crossed back into the U.S. in town.

    PENS AND READING GLASSES.

    When you arrive at the Aduana, you have to fill out your visa form. There are no pens to be found and everybody didn't know what to do, except wait for the one guy who brought his pen. Then, suddenly veteran Mexico guy Big Jim produces this baggie with like 20 pens, and we all felt good like the ShamWow! guy. Reading glasses - DAMHIK.

    ONLINE BANJERCITO.

    I was the only guy in the group who went online and got the vehicle permit that way. Easy as pie. Everbody else had to stand in the Permiso line which str etched all the way to Brownsville. Do yourself a favor amigo and do it all with your computer. In 3 days FedEx will be standing at your door with your permit.

    DON'T PUT THE PERMIT ON THE MOTORCYCLE WINDSHIELD.

    It can get swiped or damaged but the more salient point is that you won't need it but typically once, at the 20 mile or inland checkpoint, or when asked, and you can just pull it out of your file and put it back.


    Aftter the gang got their paperwork squared away, we were off to Santiago to tour and spend the night at Cola de Caballo - tail of the horse.


    [​IMG]

    We drove straight through Monterrey and cruised into Santiago via MX 85 without any problems. Well, there was one problem...

    [​IMG]

    Just before Monterrey, following a bunch of trucks, a sample of one of the above flew out from a truck in the left hand lane. Clowns to the left of me, jokers to the right and here I amj, stuck in the middle of the left hand lane with nowhere to go. Hank was ahead of Taylor who was ahead of me. Hank hits it dead on.

    I see what hank has done and my brain computes that I have nowhere to go (joker to the right of me was a semi) and no time to hit the ABS, and I remember something from skills school about hitting things in the highway dead on, accelerate, stand on the pegs (or was it sit down...hmmmmm). Anyway, before my brain can hit the *send* button with what it wants me to do, I hit it dead on. The impact sent the tire, which was surprisingly like cement, up into my left foot. If it was not for the heavy-duty leather boots I had on, I'm not sure my foot would have fared well at all.

    I look in the mirror and *BAM* Taylor hits it dead on as well. He squirrels a bit while keeping control of the bike - an excellent job.

    We pulled over to inspect damage and have lunch, and we find Taylor's brake lever bent back towards the rear of his bike:

    [​IMG]

    What do you do with a bent brake lever your first hour into Mexico?

    Me: Can you ride it like that?

    Taylor: Maybe there is some where around here I can buy a replacement.

    Hank: If you find a new lever it will be a piece of cake to swap out.

    Big Jim: Here, let me bend it back into position using my left foot. Done.


    Ah, with that out of the way we piled into the parking lot of the Hotel Cola de Caballo in the vicinity of Santiago to cheer our decision to spend of Time of Useful Consciousness on Earth riding Mexico and not walking a mall somewhere in North Dakota.

    It didn't take Patrick too long to find a friendly local sweetie and get aquainted in front of Horse Tail Falls...

    [​IMG]

    Only kidding that's not Patrick

    But it was a couple who, like of lot of people in the area, make it to the falls because like so many things in Mexico, its just, well, special down there.

    [​IMG]

    This ride report is entitled Vaquero after all, so it is appropriate to include my subject above in this staged photo below. She is holding Wallace the Bear for this photo opportunity. More about Wallace later.

    [​IMG]

    The falls are about a ten minute walk through the forrest from the hotel. There are vendors, some small buildings selling food, and horses and carts to rent. The falls are symbolic of a horse's tail and thus so named.

    [​IMG]

    You can eat fresh fruit anywhere in Mexico if you just look...

    [​IMG]

    Davis is happy to be alive and shows it at the base of the falls...

    [​IMG]

    Cola d. Caballo money shot...

    [​IMG]

    A very peaceful setting

    [​IMG]

    A pair of caballos await their vaqueros:

    [​IMG]

    While another caballo pulls along some interested in going in style...

    [​IMG]

    Ever since I was a kid, I loved these wooded trail-type spots...

    [​IMG]

    Meanwhile back at the hotel, Mariela waited patiently for everybody to check in..

    [​IMG]

    And we started to figure out who had done what to their bikes in the farkle department. You know how that goes, eventually everybody examines everyone's motorcycle to see what farkle to order as soon as you get back home. That's Patrick, who shipped his motorcycle to Iran and rode all over that country. He recently finished a photo exhibit on that trip at the Blue Star Arts Complex in San Antonio. Like myself, he also has a KLR.

    [​IMG]

    Taylor's bike below, the one that hit the tire alligator and bent back the brake lever...

    [​IMG]

    Chuck's Bumble Bee...

    [​IMG]

    Hanks's bike, with like, 12,000,000 miles on it. Hank as you remember also hit the tire tread in the road. The bike could have broken into a million pieces and Hank would fix it with chewing gum while watching a movie.

    Alabama Ralph's bike, the most senior bike on the trip...

    [​IMG]

    When you got tired of talking about motorcycles, you could go jump off a cliff....

    [​IMG]

    A real cliff

    [​IMG]

    C'mon, you can do it!

    OK, let's let this guy do it...

    [​IMG]

    And while his feet are tied and he's hanging upside down....

    [​IMG]

    We'll take a picture of his girlfriend:

    [​IMG]
    #16
  17. bigdon

    bigdon Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2005
    Oddometer:
    2,741
    N :d
    #17
  18. tricepilot

    tricepilot El Gran Payaso

    Joined:
    Apr 30, 2006
    Oddometer:
    9,613
    Location:
    San Antonio
    :beer Andres

    If you like color, just wait until this gets to San Miguel de Allende!

    :wave Don :wave





    Here is a tune that I played on my Ipod down there. I didn't know about Linda Ronstadt's connection until I ran across this, bought the CD, and read the label contents. Check out the notes she holds in The Cicada:


    <OBJECT height=344 width=425>

    <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/mhI5DZjlw8M&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></OBJECT>


    <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
    La Cigarra - The Cicada<o:p></o:p>
    Ya no me cantes cigarra<o:p></o:p>
    Que acabe tu sonsonete<o:p></o:p>
    Que tu canto aqui en el alma<o:p></o:p>
    <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:smarttags" /><st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Como</st1:place></st1:City> un punal se me mete<o:p></o:p>
    Sabiendo que cuando cantas<o:p></o:p>
    Pregonando vas tu muerte.<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    Don't sing to me anymore, cicada<o:p></o:p>
    Let your singsong end<o:p></o:p>
    For your song, here in the soul<o:p></o:p>
    Stabs me like a dagger<o:p></o:p>
    Knowing that when you sing<o:p></o:p>
    You are proclaiming that you are<o:p></o:p>
    going to your death<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    Marinero marinero<o:p></o:p>
    Dime si es verdad que sabes<o:p></o:p>
    Porque distinguir no puedo<o:p></o:p>
    Si en el fondo de los mares<o:p></o:p>
    Hay otro color mas negro<o:p></o:p>
    Que el color de mis pesares.<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    Sailor, sailor<o:p></o:p>
    Tell me if it is true that you know<o:p></o:p>
    Because I cannot distinguish<o:p></o:p>
    If in the depth of the seas<o:p></o:p>
    There is another color blacker<o:p></o:p>
    Than the color of my sorrows.<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    Un palomito al volar<o:p></o:p>
    Que llevaba el pecho herido<o:p></o:p>
    Ya casi para llorar<o:p></o:p>
    Me dijo muy afligido.<o:p></o:p>
    Ya me canso de buscar<o:p></o:p>
    Un amor correspondido.<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    A little dove upon flying<o:p></o:p>
    Bearing a wounded breast<o:p></o:p>
    Was about to cry<o:p></o:p>
    And told me very afflicted<o:p></o:p>
    I'm tired of searching for<o:p></o:p>
    A mutual love.<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    Bajo la sombra de un arbol<o:p></o:p>
    Y al compas de mi guitarra<o:p></o:p>
    Canto alegre este huapango<o:p></o:p>
    Porque la vida se acaba<o:p></o:p>
    Y quiero morir cantando<o:p></o:p>
    <st1:City w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Como</st1:place></st1:City> muere la cigarra<o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    Under the shade of a tree<o:p></o:p>
    And to the beat of my guitar<o:p></o:p>
    I sing this "huapango" happily<o:p></o:p>
    Because my life is ending<o:p></o:p>
    And I want to die singing<o:p></o:p>
    Like the cicada dies
    #18
  19. Arte

    Arte Pata de Perro

    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,610
    Location:
    LEON, Gto. MEXICO
    Excellent report !!
    post more pics
    :clap

    Arte
    #19
  20. Kodanja

    Kodanja Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 23, 2005
    Oddometer:
    710
    Location:
    Boise, Idaho
    We're waiting :augie

    Keep it coming! Don't spare any details. :ear
    #20