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Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by Chad_NC, Feb 5, 2009.
I'll trade you a pos 98 and give you some boot.
Summary a 2011 VFR800Fi in Limited Edition Pearl White,
Givi Plxr166 Rapid release pannier brackets
Givi FZ166 MonoKey topbox bracket
Givi V35 Panniers, closer fittign and more aerodynamic.
Givi V46 Topbox
givi v46 top box brake light
Givi Topbox rack
Powerlet Bulkhead power socket in topbox.
Givi Touring Spoiler Screen,
Real Carbon Fibre tripple tree cover
Ram mount double of clutch bracket, with Spot Commect gps, Garmin GPS, and camera mount, Ottor Box as well
Powerlet headStem Powersocket.
Oxford Sports Heated Grips
Stain Tunes and Sandy Decat Headers
K&N High Flow Air filter
Oggy Not Cut Crash Knobs White
Power Commander 5
with the exception of suspention mods, which i didnt expect to need, i think its all done.
I'll jump in on this one, after picking up a '95 VFR750 a month ago. I got it home and was thinking "Man this thing is a beast at slow speed turns." Checked the air pressure -- way low. Put the proper pressure in and WOW, what an amazing bike. Probably my favorite so far, among FJR, R1150R, VStrom and more. Sounds great and feels better.
I picked it up with 36,000 miles, Corbin seat, D&D slip-on pipe plus original, Lindemann Engineering front suspension, Givi wingrack/top rack and two side cases (I usually ride with one as a top box on my commute), "coated" exhaust, new tires (still with the nubs on them), Zero Gravity screen (plus original), new fluids everywhere. I upgraded the R/R with one from a 98 after some charging issues and added the VFRness wiring harness from Wiremybike.com, plus a new battery. I added a blue sea fuse block under the seat and will add a Signal Dynamics voltage monitor this weekend and powerlet. Fun with older bikes!
Probably going to buy a '99 VFR this week. It has 39k miles on it, recently had valve check without need for any adjustments, and has been kept in near perfect condition. He is asking $3250 for it. Sound like a good deal? I am beyond excited about the bike, I hope it doesn't get sold while I wait to get the money from a friend who is buying my SVS.
I bought the '95 mentioned above for $2,800 with lots of extras in Va Beach. It was above KBB, but the extras were significant. It may be a bit on the high side, but if you like it, who cares. I'd look at the consumables (tires, last fluid changes, etc.) and see how much more you have to put into it in the next few months vs just riding it. Good luck with the purchase!
What's the easiest way to access the throttle cables to see if they are sticking on something? it is worse on full lock to the right and sticks less so on left full lock, It also revs while turning the bars so I'm assuming the cables are caught on something. What's the least amount of panels/bolts to loosen/remove to get access?
I've been eyeballing that VFR for a few months now. It looks clean and well taken care of. I was waiting until he dropped his price to $3000 and offer $2800 but I'm cheap. If you are patient you can find one as nice for cheaper. He doesn't have many mods on it other than hand warmers, painted rims and exhaust. Either way though, it's a VFR and you'll love it.
Side note, if you want to ride let me know. I don't have a new VFR but if you don't mind riding with a ole '85 VF1000R or '86 VFR750 let me know. I'll dust one of my ole girls off.
It's definitely worth the $3200 for me. I've been wanting one for quite a while, and to see one in such great condition is too enticing to let pass. It will be a daily driver for me, so I was thinking that a newer model would be a bit easier to manage. Also, a future ride with another viffer sounds awesome!
What would be the best way to insure a 99 VFR800? I admittedly know very little about insurance, I just tell my agent to give me a plan that is $50 a month. Obviously I want to know what I am getting, and spend a reasonable amount of money on it.
I would doubt that the cables are caught on anything, they just aren't adjusted or routed properly (not enough slack at full lock). There is a minimal amount of cable adjustment available at the throttle, if you have to get to the adjusters where the cables attach to the carbs, or if you have to reroute the cables, you have to pull the gas tank, which requires removing the seat and the rear fairing first.
Definitely get a factory service manual for the instructions on how to do this and the illustrations to show the proper routing.
You can probably find pdf files of the manual on-line, but I find the physical printout to be extremely useful.
On a bike that is worth $3000 just get liability. $75 per year for me.
Really? That seems very bare-bones. If I total my bike, I get nothing to purchase something new, correct?
Correct, but you're only going to get what the bike is worth based on the current market, which may or may not be what you paid for it (and if not, less) and after another year, the payout would certainly be less.
So you think, "Okay, but that's at least $2700 (or so) that can be used to buy another bike". But depending on your age, record or locale, you could be paying $300 to $3000/year for that coverage.
Knock the premiums you've paid off the potential payout and you're getting even less in real dollars, and that's only if you have an accident. Depending on the actual numbers, if you don't have an accident, you can save enough to buy another bike w/in about 5 years or less (remember the bike's value drops every year, but your premiums won't)
These are just generalized values I've pulled out of thin air, but they illustrate the principle. At a certain point, the potential benefits are not worth the cost of the insurance. What that point is, varies from case to case, but I wouldn't put collision or comp insurance on any vehicle worth less than $5000 unless required to do so by financing.
Fair enough, I will end up doing that. Thanks for clarifying.
Yes without collision you get nothing if totaled.
You can play around with coverage and see how it affects the cost on the Progressive without committing to anything.
Holy Shit! Some ff actually agreed with me
While semi-knowledgeable on the subject and having an opinion, I'm not an insurance broker or any sort of qualified expert in these matters. Given your initial statement about not knowing much about insurance other than to tell you agent to keep it under 50/month, it would be prudent to get his take on the subject as well, and to see what the premiums would actually be in your case, just keep in mind that he makes money by selling you the coverage. If he's really looking out for your best interest, he may even recommend that you should only get liability in this case.
I will keep that in mind. The bike I had in mind is a 99 valued at around 2k, so that obviously wouldn't be worth paying hundreds of dollars a year on.
i have full tilt insurance on my VFR. $120/year...