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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by scottalot, Mar 7, 2013.
YOU sir should be burned at the stake for even asking this, do you realise that here in blighty volvo drivers are the skerg of bikers and must be avoided at all costs, volvo drivers love nothing more than to daydream that that they are rolling over the step in there panzerwagons when in fact they are rolling iover the great ones choosen people(motorcyclists), nay sir do your karma some good and avoid these obscene contraptions.
Ducky149 is a Volvo Master Tech...
mountaincadre, Here in Vermont we used to believe that all the very worst drivers (especially in winter) drove Volvos because they were always going to be safe in accidents, leading to total inattention to what they were doing!
I've owned a lot of Volvo's inmy time and currently own 3, an amazon wagon, a 2003 S60 (same everything as the wagon you are considering) and a 2010 XC70. The 2010 is too new and the 68 is too old to compare, but the 2003 is just right. We've had no major problems at 170k. There was a neutral downshift issue and a turbo control module that needed replacing, but both took no time and almost no money (<$100 each). The suspension has sucked, but we drive in Houston which is hell. I've done new shocks and struts three times in 10yrs. Finally going up to the highest level stuff on the last rebuild (not OEM).
My folks have a 2001 s70 which has had almost no problems.
I think they are great cars and I think they last forever. I don't think it is fair to say anyone of them has some dark horse waiting to come and claim it at XX,ooo miles. I think there are bad cars in every brand and model, but a universally bad issue in any of the 9 volvo's I've owned, I've not seen.
If you do buy it, go ahead and have the T-Belt replaced (110K service) At this age it will die from age before miles. Also look at flushing the trans fluid, other than that drive it into the ground.
Also, don't take mechanic advice from folks that are not Volvo mechanics. Use Swedespeed.com to find a good non-dealer near you.
No, I didn't have anything to do with the Navy base though some projects I worked on were in some of the buildings after the Navy was gone, which I think was around '95.
My mom's side of the family is from SC, so I've been in & out of there my whole life. My two kids grew up there (went to Buist & CofC) & have only recently left there.
Those guys are right, Volvo's ARE soild. You barely feel or hear anything as it bounces off!
Wanna sell it?
XC70 forum with lots of info on the AWD units
Generally stay away from 2001-2002 due to trans trouble. Newer models use the same Aisin Warner 5spd auto shared with a bunch of other makers. Only trouble with those is that Volvo doesn't have a recommended ATF change interval - you'll want to ignore that and change it periodically anyways.
Turbos are not a problem for any car that's had semi-reasonable oil changes, it's a pretty bulletproof Mitsubishi TD04.
The PCV system ("flame trap") can be a trouble at 100k+ on "white block" Volvo engines ('93 850 and newer 5 cyl) that have no good oil change history. They DO want synthetic oil. There is a $300 kit to fix it but you will spend 8 hours installing it - better off for a pro to do it.
Viscous coupling AWD as used in early (-03?) Volvo AWD is the one that has trouble with differing tire diameters.
Newer Haldex AWD is just fine within reasonable limits.
I like my '07 XC70. '03+ is almost the same.
Great Schools for the children. I never personally went to either but have known many people whom did.. You would be familiar with my stomping grounds then - James Island..
I really appreciate all of the Volvo knowledge from everyone. This is good stuff. Its nice to gather and study this information before I go out into the Volvo shopping world blindfolded.
I knew that was the answer!!
Luckily I live near San Francisco and lot's of 122s' live around here.
I'm relieved the local guy with the 2006 V70R six speed wagon sold it before I got chance to look at it. The collar gear doesn't seem to like coping with 300hp.
Those years ran the same Aisin AW55 gearbox as the years before, and the years after.
And that fundamentally is the most difficult part about these cars, identifying good information. For it's darn hard to actually locate. There's a lot of confusion and misinformation out there on these cars. Especially when you're dealing with the awd models.
Volvo doesn't make it any easier with their own confusion. Such as the V70awd, not to be confused with the V70xc, which is also an awd V70, but not the same as the V70awd. Got that?
Or the viscous coupler vs Haldax. The viscous coupler is made by Haldax. All Haldax systems are viscous couplers. The "viscous coupler" people talk about is a passive system, while the later fancier "Haldax" units were electrically powered. Volvo installed various versions of coupling systems by Haldax on their cars, and varied them by year and model. The 02 year is a little extra fun as the V70awd I think ran the passive "viscous coupler" Haldax, while the V70xc ran a powered version (at least mine has a powered unit). Confused yet?
V70's up to 02 or 03 as I recall ran the film type throttle sensor (these are throttle by wire cars) that was notorious for failing, resulting in a progressively undriveable car. About a $600 fix. I've seen various claims that the V70xc didn't have this, but driving some make it clear that certainly did. Break point for the V70xc seems to be about 02. Could vary with country of origin.
Gasoline leakage from the fuel pump in the tank is a common problem. Sometimes covered by a very restrictive recall (only some states, up to so many miles, etc). Not a bad job on a V70, but a nasty job on a V70xc. There's an access port in the car on the V70, it's not there on the V70xc. You can cut your own access port, or drop the tank. To drop the tank, you drop the rear suspension, the tank is on top of it. It's a saddle tank, lots of fun. There are some techniques, involving 2x4's that sometimes help and can mean you only half to drop the front half of the rear suspension.
PCV failure is common somewhere over 100k miles. A full PCV overall is a remarkably time consuming and expensive proposition. But, most of the time the failure is in the little orifice in the main air intake tube. Remove it, clear the tiny hole, and it will likely be all better. This lets you leave the intake manifold on the car (has to be removed for a full servicing).
Ignition keys are an expensive thing, because the car has to be programed to the keys, not the other way around. Figure about $300 for each key and programming.
If one is looking at this era and plans to work on it, a computer with Vidas or Vida (forget which) is necessary, as is a DICE unit in order to be able to communicate with the car. The service manual hides in this software as well.
Volvo's, et all, are a rather high maintenance machine, especially compared to something like a Toyota Camry. They are also quite quirky to work on. You've really got to mentally shift gears with them.
turbo bricks I've had over the years:
89 740 turbo
Do I regret having them? No. Do I recommend them to my friends who are not mechanically inclined and want appliance like reliability? No.
Thanks Foxtrapper, I think.. I say think because--- I am at this point a little confused LOL. I took in a good portion of your reply but got a little lost in the beginning. I don't mind tooling with my cars, however - I'd rather leave the tank and suspension pulling to my bike's. Sooooo, all that said - I can tell I have a lot of re-reading throughout this thread before I make any purchases. Rest assured, I have not found anything yet and will do my very best to comb over it prior to purchase and also post about it here afterwards.. My brain is tired now, as I have really been doing a crazy amount of car searching and research on all makes and models..
It would seem, some of the better choices boil down to Toyota and Honda.. We shall see, my issue is they are both either not made in the model I prefer of are very proud in the prices they bring..
We have Volvos in the house because the wife insists on it. It's because of the boy child and the legendary Volvo safety. Otherwise, we would have Toyotas and Hondas. We've both long had Toyotas and Hondas. Their reliability and repairability far exceeds that of a Volvo.
I'd agree with that statement -- even with the earlier red block (740/940) cars.
They do require maintenance, but it is so easy to do for a competent shadetree wrench. They rarely require a special tool, their diagnostics are built in (no computer or reader necessary) and they are a simple, robust design. The FWD, and AWD Volvos (anything made after 1995) are a completely different animal. I don't think I'll ever own a FWD or AWD Volvo.
My comments earlier were based solely on the red block 740/940 cars. I feel these cars are every bit as reliable and DIY-repairable as Honda & Toyota. (and I'm a huge fan of Toyota) -- albeit with a European approach.
With all of that said I'm really leaning towards the Toyota's and Hondas now.. Either an accord or Camry, but would really prefer a Stick shift - Ext. Cab 6cyl Toyota P/up.. They are out there, its just tough finding one that either 1. Isn't dogged out and lifted ten inches, or 2. Isn't in the 200k mile club. Of, then there's the chore of finding one at a decent price. I'm flexible on the Price - but around here everyone thinks their vehicles are worth 2x the book Value.. Looking within about a 100 Mile radius. That's all I can really work with as my work schedule keeps me to busy to travel much further at the moment..
You being 6'4"..there's NO better car than a Volvo when it comes to proper seating; bar none!
Seriously miss my 2011 XC v70(FWD)...swapped it for a 2002 VW EuroVan Camper :huh!
Done with Motorcycle sidecaring thus the more protected environment of the VW Van. Volvo SW wasn't too Camper friendly with my dachshund and wife in tow.
Good luck in your choice...but must admit that there's nothing out there that goes the distance like Japanese cars...
Just one experience, longish:
A few years back we had a 99 v70 wagon non turbo we picked up used (well maintained) with 50k, kept it for a couple years.
We bought it for its nice size and safety rep. Loved the boxy/plain look/wagon versatility.
That thing was in the shop so often (electrical, suspension etc). Every month or two it seems like it needed something beyond normal maintenance.
I was so glad to get rid of it. Just never trusted it. It did not seem like it was built for durability or ease of maintenance. I'll never buy another Volvo again after owning that car...it seemed "Audi/VW" like...
We replaced it with a 2000 540i, due to a family deal ($5k, 40k miles...). The BMW has been much less finicky, but it is no Honda either. I'm aware of some of the issues with that era of BMW. The way below market purchase price allows for some repairs...Frankly, our needs are Camry or Highlander not "euro tuner". The V8 is fun, but really over the top for our needs.
Context: The older I get the less interest I have in cars, especially as daily drivers. I just want them to work without headaches (save hobby/classic cars). The Volvo did not meet that requirement at all. We were always wondering what would break next.
I never worry at all about repairs/reliability on my main car (Honda Ridgeline). That feeling is gold. The Volvo was pyrite.