Weatherproof USB Power Ports

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by Shov3BR, Nov 6, 2010.

  1. Shov3BR

    Shov3BR Tinkerer

    Joined:
    May 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    308
    Location:
    Edmond, OK
    [Christmas is a'comin! I hope to get the AquaBox w/RAM Surface Mount, so I'll be ordering your products soon :beer[/QUOTE]
    Sounds as though you have your Christmas list priorities right

    After Christmas when you know what you have send us an email [address on the website support page] or give me a call & we can discuss options.

    Why TAPP Lite?

    TAPP Lite follows our own original design that we called TAPP that was 1.5A output. Just about the time we were ready to go to market a lot of low cost USB power ports became available. Being an all-USA made product, we couldn't compete on price. In order to get something to market we decided to take an off-the-shelf USB regulator do some value added stuff to an to make it suitable for powersports applications. It is 1.0A thus TAPP Lite.

    Meanwhile we are redesigning the circuit for TAPP to make it a full 3A. This is way more than is necessary for the USB standard so it will charge an iPAD with plenty of power left over. We hope to have prototype circuit boards in house before Christmas and production underway in late January.

    Long answer to a short question.
    #21
  2. Shov3BR

    Shov3BR Tinkerer

    Joined:
    May 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    308
    Location:
    Edmond, OK
    #22
  3. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2004
    Oddometer:
    14,293
    Location:
    Circumlocution Office of Little Dorrit
    I got the Medium Aqua Box with surface mount, but will have to return it for the Medium-Wide model. The Droid2 does indeed fit inside the box, but it is too wide for the Flex Screen by a smidgen... I wish RAM had mentioned that on their website; its the Flex Screen LxH and the box Depth that matter.

    Ah well, so I am getting ready to order this and your wiring kit. Let's make sure I've got this straight still (lots of merriment between above and now :loaded):

    a) TAPP-Lite w/ Deutsch two-pin connector - how far from the usb-end... at least a few inches eh? I think running the TAPP up and then pointing it down would make it more weatherproof, or is the cap on the USB connector cable?

    b) RA-Left micro USB cable with TAPP CAPP & tube of dielectric grease

    I think that would do it. Oh, you recommended the kit direct to the battery too, but many power their GPS units from the unused connectors under the dash of my KTM model. I would rather do that, particularly since my headlights will no longer be on those circuits thanks to EB.
    #23
  4. Shov3BR

    Shov3BR Tinkerer

    Joined:
    May 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    308
    Location:
    Edmond, OK
    We had the same problem with the Aqua Box. My Droid fits OK but the RA connector won't clear the side of the flex screen. I even tried trimming the RA connector body right down to the wire but it still wouldn't fit. Bummer.

    You mentioned connecting to unused connectors under the dash. Do you know the type and mfg of the connectors? If we can match one of them it would save adding another connector in line. The fewer the connectors the better - and it saves some $$; Deutsch connectors are expensive.

    All that aside - here's where we are right now. TAPP Lite with TAPP CAPPed USB right angle micro cable for Droid. Pics below show the TAPP Lite with its protective cap in place and then with USB cable plugged in. Notice that the TAPP CAPP on the cable does the same job as the protective cap on the power port, i.e. provide weather protection to the USB port.

    I have laid a Deutsch connector housing set next to the cable to give you an idea what it's going to look like. This is a 4-pin set which is all we stock but we can get the 2-pin if you want to go with the Deutsch. As for connector location, we can put it anywhere so let me know what works best for you.

    My Droid and the Aqua Box gives you an idea about overall size.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    If that's not enough to totally confuse the issue how about this: We have just finished the design of a weatherproof panel mount USB port. As you are probably aware, the panel mount USB port that we currently sell is only dust resistant, not true weatherproof.

    I don't know how anxious you are to get your USB port set up but if you can wait a few weeks we will have our first production parts for you to consider. Here's a picture of the prototype. The production part will look a little different. We are going with a plug (innie) rather than a cap (outie) for the protective seal. As you can see, the cable uses the same crimp/shrink bullet connectors as the current USB panel mount.

    We just ordered the injection molding tooling today and it usually takes four to six weeks to get the tools made and first article parts run. The material is the same Brulloy super-rubber that we use on our other proprietary products. And yes, we will have a TAPP CAPP II for this USB port as well.

    [​IMG]
    #24
  5. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2004
    Oddometer:
    14,293
    Location:
    Circumlocution Office of Little Dorrit
    Doing some work on the wiring I grabbed a pic of my free connectors up front. I have two that are free and look about right for this application:

    [​IMG]
    EDIT: added some chicken scratches to the connectors.

    They are both 2-wire connectors, but have slightly different locking mechanisms. If not obvious they are pulled out of the "holder" (where a 4-wire for my tach) and a 5-wire (also unused) sit).

    Let me know if you need help with these (I think they are Molex); there has been some discussion in Thumpers about them. If they are too much trouble you can put one-half of a Deutsch on the end of your kit and I will cut one of these off and put the other end on.

    ps - you may also notice a couple of relays, some stout wiring, and unused wiring connectors - one of Jim's headlight wiring upgrade kits that I am about to wire in, now that I have my headlights aimed properly and can do a good comparison.
    #25
  6. Shov3BR

    Shov3BR Tinkerer

    Joined:
    May 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    308
    Location:
    Edmond, OK
    I think you are correct on the Molex part. Especially with that angled end of the housing. Have a look at this drawing to see if the Center-Center distance is correct and if the pin diameter is .093".

    http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/003092021_sd.pdf

    Our terminal supplier doesn't carry this type but I checked Digi-Key and they do have them in reasonable quatities (sometimes Molex connector pin minimum order qty is in the tens of thousands!). Let me know what you find out.
    We are going to be placing a Digi-Key order for some PCBA parts so I could tack these on.
    -Shov
    #26
  7. GoosePilot

    GoosePilot Bicycle

    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2007
    Oddometer:
    62
    Location:
    Cape Town, South Africa
    Definitely interested in this one.....
    #27
  8. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2004
    Oddometer:
    14,293
    Location:
    Circumlocution Office of Little Dorrit
    Hmmm, here is a close-up of the connectors:

    [​IMG]

    As I recall, one end of the "rectangular" face of the connectors is square and one is round - the drawing in the PDF you linked to shows something more triangular... or maybe one of them was like the PDF - I'll have a look tomorrow when I button her up from the headlight work.
    #28
  9. Digger45

    Digger45 Digger

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2010
    Oddometer:
    11
    Location:
    Red Bluff, A
    The one on the left looks like the drawing especially with the panel mounting that look like a robots legs with feet. The connector on the right doesn't look familiar at all.
    Is the connector on the left in a fused circuit? If so, that's probaly the one to use. Also, is it part of the orginial wiring or part of the add-on stuff? If it is factory wiring we may want to add a version of the TAPP Lite with this connector to our product line.
    I'm up for giving it a try.
    #29
  10. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2004
    Oddometer:
    14,293
    Location:
    Circumlocution Office of Little Dorrit
    I went and had a look, and you're right, it does look like the diagram in the PDF. Before you order a bunch and start offering a kit, let me confirm that we are correct and I think you should confirm this connector is commonly available on KTMs.

    It was available on the 640 Adventures, which ceased production in 2007. Those two connectors are switched power for the roadbook and rally GPS. I checked a couple of threads, one of which included "Luke" who is an LC4 owner and electrical engineer (as I recall):

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60606
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=288568
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=491163

    Oh, yes, both connectors are OEM, fused & switched power. Maybe KTM is still using such a connector on their LC8s or other bikes?
    #30
  11. Low594

    Low594 Adventuring Creep

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,197
    Location:
    Oakland, CA
    Very interesting... I must look into these when I get back to my laptop!
    #31
  12. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2004
    Oddometer:
    14,293
    Location:
    Circumlocution Office of Little Dorrit
    I found a description here:
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51681

    from that thread:

    I didn't find any proper Molex connectors on RS's website, but that P/N found something on Amazon:

    http://www.amazon.com/Molex-1545PRT-0-093-Circuit-Connector/dp/B0026GLVBI

    Should I get one and ensure its the right plug before we proceed?

    EDIT: I looked a bit more and I think we have the right connector type; the number given by Rob (1545) shows up on the PDF you linked to and the part I found available via Amazon, so I don't think its necessary for me to buy and try... can we get to ordering? Should I call/email your site since my kit is not an option (yet)?
    #32
  13. Shov3BR

    Shov3BR Tinkerer

    Joined:
    May 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    308
    Location:
    Edmond, OK
    MP - no worries on an "official" order at this point. Let me get the Molex connectors and pins. Digi-Key stocks all of it and we have an account with them. We are going to place a Digi-Key order for some PCBA parts so I'll tack on a few connectors and pins. They should get here next week so I'll make up a kit for you. We'll keep the cost the same as the TAPP Lite since the connector replaces the fuse holder, fuse and ring terminals. I'll let you know when it is complete and you can call in your order since there is no part number on the website.

    What pigtail length do you want on the TAPP Lite? Since it is a special you might as well get exactly what you want.
    -Shov
    #33
  14. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2004
    Oddometer:
    14,293
    Location:
    Circumlocution Office of Little Dorrit

    Thanks in advance for the custom kit!

    From the Molex connector up to the dash is only a few inches, and from the dash up to the Ram Surface mounted AquaBox (Medium-Wide on the way) is probably only another few inches, so... one foot should be plenty I would think. If we wanted some margin or error that could be bumped a bit - and I'll measure soon so I can offer you some specific numbers.
    #34
  15. Shov3BR

    Shov3BR Tinkerer

    Joined:
    May 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    308
    Location:
    Edmond, OK
    Sounds good. We have a few days until the connectors get here.
    #35
  16. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2004
    Oddometer:
    14,293
    Location:
    Circumlocution Office of Little Dorrit
    I had a look and one foot would probably do it, but we should add a bit for cable curves and a bit of slack so the dash can be raised before disconnecting. I could try 1.5' and give you some feedback on the length.
    #36
  17. Shov3BR

    Shov3BR Tinkerer

    Joined:
    May 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    308
    Location:
    Edmond, OK
    Sounds good. The connectors are due in tomorrow or Wednesday. Which pin is + (yellow & blue?) and which is negative (brown). I was thinking about just crimping the pins and letting you poke them into the housing but I might was well have the info in case we make more later on.
    #37
  18. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2004
    Oddometer:
    14,293
    Location:
    Circumlocution Office of Little Dorrit
    Brown is ground, but in my picture its not completely clear which wire is going to which side. The quote I copied above, AussieRob (reliable fella) said positive was on the pointy (top) end, and negative was on the flat (bottom) end.

    Should I confirm?
    #38
  19. Low594

    Low594 Adventuring Creep

    Joined:
    Oct 28, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,197
    Location:
    Oakland, CA
    The colors are correct and I'm 85% sure the brown is on the square end and the yellow is the pointy end or top of the house as I think of it!
    #39
  20. Shov3BR

    Shov3BR Tinkerer

    Joined:
    May 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    308
    Location:
    Edmond, OK
    Ta Dah!

    Thanks Low594 - I was wondering if I should have left the pins out of the housing and have MP punch them in. I now feel confident that it's correct.

    Hey - MP send me a message with your shipping address and we'll get this thing to you.

    [​IMG]
    #40