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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by JimVonBaden, Dec 17, 2012.
And today I finally got the RZV engine out....time for the fun to really begin now....
Considering it's dragged on for over a year now, I'm over it. It was basically him telling me to go away because he's busy with other work and doesn't want to deal with my project. Works for me. I've got stuff to do, so I'm going to make it work in the existing building. I've had the wood for our bed for about 2 years now. Our mattress is still sitting on the box springs on the ground. Wife isn't super happy about that.
Started framing to fill in the pit today. Need to get some plywood to skin it. Then I'll start moving tools in. Not going to bother turning it into storage or anything. It's going to have heavy woodworking equipment on top of it, so I'll never move stuff out of the way to get at it. Could do dust collection theoretically, but I don't expect this building to last more than 5-10 years. Just going to surface mount everything to make it easier to remove later. I'll probably throw a coat of white paint on everything to brighten it up, then wire in some outlets, and call it good. No vehicles back here. I've got a 1 car garage for the motorcycles.
Prep for the tech day!
Taking some pix of my KTM's fuel filters to put in a riding tip topic :)
Started with this ... excellent shape, good running 2000 DRZ400S
And ended with this ... 2001 DRZ400E framed and titled with S running gear.
Still a few bits to add, but she starts, rolls, drives and stops.
DRZ400S - wrecked and repaired - runs great, clean VIN history, but no title.
DRZ400E - blown motor and a clean title.
And here are a few in-between shots ...
E Tank mock up ...
Motor installed ...
S subframe removed and prepped for install ...
Front end swapped. Lowered the lift onto the front end ...
Took a couple weekends and some much needed help from friends and neighbors.
Got an oil cooler for free so I mounted it on one of my Sportsters-
Do I need a cooler? I don’t know.
Do you ride in Arizona?
Then. Yes...yes you do
No I don’t, but I’ll be ready if I do!
That cooler has a thermostat so it will open when needed. Better safe than sorry on an air cooled engine. Rear cylinders on Harleys tend to run hot anyway. If you spend any time in traffic (stop & go) I would say YES you need an oil cooler. There is one on my 1984 FXRS and it has been on there since 1984.
Just use good hose and clamps. I like to use fuel injection clamps because they have a full band without worm drive slots that will dig into the hose and the edges are turned up slightly to also prevent digging in.
Did some maintenance to my pickup last weekend and had a couple of awwww shit moments. Notably, a spark plug breaking off in the head. Yes, it’s a Ford. No, it’s not a 5.4. No, the plugs aren’t the same as a 5.4.
As best I can tell, the plug was defective. The halves were rusted where they were welded together telling me it wasn’t completely welded and allowed water to get in. The other 15 (yes) plugs were fine. I got lucky....chipped the ceramic out and was able to use a bolt extractor to remove it.
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Installed my new Renazco Racing seat
Black leather sides, and suede top. Plus 1" foam.
Chipping away through the new-to-me 2006 DL650 VStrom. Bought for $1,500.
-Front end collision. Previous owner replaced the forks with used from eBay, as the front were wicked bent. Front wheel was bent to garbage, not repairable. So I had no idea the service history of the forks.
Hung the blemished used ADV farkles that I've picked up second hand on eBay throughout the winter.
- New bushings, seals, and springs from Race Tech.
- Steering head bearings, maybe those were damaged in the collision. Let's order a new set and peel the old set out ...
Steering head bearings all looked perfect (thinking I am dumb for ordering $35 of bearings, and the $45 tool to press the new races in). Finally got the bottom race tapped off of the lower triple tree... I made dots with a Sharpie marker to show where the dents in the race were visible. The balls in the bearing must be imperfect as well, now in a more ellipsoidal shape, which technically will wear at an accellerated rate.
So I do not feel so foolish.
Doing the job the right way (first time in my life), having the right socket for the spanner nuts that control bearing preload. Bought from an inmate on ADVrider!! Apparently this tool does a lot of Japanese bikes. I'm ampled. The tool is completely beautifully made.
I have been working on the 1977 Kawasaki KZ 1000 on and off for a week or so trying to sort an electrical issue (blows the 10A main fuse intermittently)
I tested the new handlebar switch gear that was installed "Just before the problem started" for proper operation and shorts to ground all checked out OK.
Next I checked the new harness that was installed by a local shop in order to solve this problem looking for improperly routed and chafed wires, proper connections, etc. I get to the headlamp housing where the wiring for the dash panel and ignition switch connect to the main harness and see a spot on the white main power wire that looks suspicious.
I think I see copper but hard to tell, I clean the black splooge off of the wire with some carb spray and BINGO! Right where the wire enters the connector there it is... bare copper.
Apparently it has been occasionally making contact with metal inside of the headlamp bucket when hitting bumps, turning the bars or whatever.
Further inspection also revealed that the brown switched hot was also rubbing.
I have found that having two DVOMs set up comes in handy... saves switching leads around from a ground point to check for grounding and then reconnecting to check components.
While the air filter will be great, and I don’t want to diminish your post, I was more appreciative of you peg board and highly organized tools! Nice!
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I previously mentioned my buddy with the mobility challenges that got a tank wheelchair. He just bought himself a nice trailer to haul it around, but there were some suboptimal aspects of it that I told him were easy fixes since it's just made of metal. I added a structural rail around the front and one side using 2x.5 c-channel at 30" height above the trailer floor, plus a matching railing on the tailgate so he has something to hold onto as he makes his way along and into the trailer. I added an aux ramp on the end of the main ramp so his smaller mobility scooter could also make the transition into the trailer; the 2" angle iron the things made of was just too big a lip for it to get over. I added 10 additional tiedown points so strapping is easier, and installed a spring lift assist so it takes a max of 35lbs (I measured) to lift the tailgate. I made a spare tire rack so the spare wasn't hanging from a side-rail, and welded a big bolt to the front above the tongue to hook a winch onto to pull heavy things into the trailer. Finally I gave the whole shebang a coat of rustoleum.
Edit: started out with tig but switched to mig just due to the amount of bead I had to lay down. Actually laid some vertical up/vertical down that I wasn't ashamed of. Thanks Jody!
Edit2: I also rounded every edge I made and most of the existing ones on the trailer with a flap wheel, because who hasn't lost some skin to a sharp corner or edge on a trailer?
Had to put a bit of bend in a piece of 1/4"x30" steel, and have zero stuff on hand that can bend that big. So I grabbed a pipe wrench and a ratchet strap, marked the piece every two inches and went back and forth till I had the bend I needed. Not elegant, but effective.
So I emailed/used the service request feature on the websites of the closest KTM dealers asking how much a 600 mile service was. One dealer called me days later asking if I needed anything (despite having written a very clear request) and then never returned my reply call. How, in this day and age, a company can exist with no clue about how to use the internet is beyond me. So I guess I'll be doing all my own service. Checked the valves on the miniduke. Everything was in spec, but just barely. It'll definitely need adjustment at the next service. Not a lot of room to work either.
Edit: also found out that my .003 feeler is .0035, and my .005 is .0053.
^They obviously have enough money. Good that you didn't give them any of yours.
Most are no better when you show up in person...from my experience
Getting ready for the tech day!