What Did You Do To Your 1050/1190/1290 Today?

Discussion in 'Ridiculous streetbikes with 6 CPUs and too much HP' started by Peanuts, Dec 6, 2014.

  1. StuartV

    StuartV Motorcyclist

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    I'm not sure what you're going on about.

    I said to drop the forks in the triple clamps. I.e. raise the front of the bike. Raising it by the exact amount a 17" wheel lowers it (if possible) seems like a good place to start.
  2. Themastermike

    Themastermike Think you caught me in a coma

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    I believe is called raising, might be just the terms in my group tho, sorry.


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  3. barko1

    barko1 barko1

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    Went to add a few #s to the tires and the rear valve cap was stuck on :confused. Corroded I guess, had them off a few weeks ago. Got a pliers, no go, penetrating oil, nope, heat, no good. Finally I dremeled a slot and got it off, from now on plastic caps. Been humid so maybe that did them in.
  4. StuartV

    StuartV Motorcyclist

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    Still don't know what you're trying to say. Yes, you can raise the forks in the triple clamps. A lot of guys with sportbikes do that to quicken the steering. But, if you have a bike with a 19" wheel and you change to a 17" wheel, you probably want to do the opposite - lower the forks in the triple clamps. Which would be the opposite of giving it the stinkbug stance. Maybe you made an incorrect assumption about what I was trying to suggest and that I am not-so-smart on how to adjust a bike to make it handle well... :dunno:dunno:hmmmmm:hmmmmm:confused :confused
  5. Themastermike

    Themastermike Think you caught me in a coma

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    Nope, you are smart on this.

    Might be coming from a 21"?

    There are millimeters of adjust, not inches.

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  6. Themastermike

    Themastermike Think you caught me in a coma

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    Chichbug not stinkbug


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  7. StuartV

    StuartV Motorcyclist

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    10-4 on all that. Might need to send the forks off to have them lengthened in order to really make it work right with a 17" wheel.

    Are the actual forks the same between the SAT and SAR? I kind of thought they were. In which case, even if coming from a 21" wheel, the forks should handle a good setup for a 19" anyway. So, making them work for 17" isn't too much of a stretch. But, I think your point is totally valid. There may not be enough adjustment available to drop the fork tubes enough to really make it handle right with a 17" wheel. If coming from a 21" front, I think that also means an 18" rear? Might need to change to a 17" rear also.
  8. rick danger

    rick danger Off the wagon

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    your car is so far in the background it almost looks like a toy :rofl
    I had to do the dremel thing to my friends valve caps on his jeep once. Crazy. A little anti sieze, but who would think you'ld need it.
  9. Themastermike

    Themastermike Think you caught me in a coma

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    Lengthened??? Dennis Hopper would paint it in stars and stripes and take off on it.

    I'm out on this one.......

    Back to your regularly scheduled thread.

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  10. StuartV

    StuartV Motorcyclist

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    Uhhh, yeah. Lengthened. If you put a shorter wheel on (e.g. a 17"), the front of the bike is lower to the ground and the rake is steeper. You address that by dropping the forks in the triple clamps. If the fork tubes aren't long enough to let you raise the front of the bike up (aka drop the forks in the clamps) to where it needs to be without the tops of the fork tubes being below the top triple clamp, then you might get the fork tubes lengthened, so they will stick up high enough to go through the top triple clamp.

    Raising the front of the bike back up to where the rake is the same as stock is not likely to attract Dennis Hopper...
  11. Broken&Lost

    Broken&Lost Been here awhile

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    If using metal dust caps put a smear of grease on the threads to prevent them bonding. I also found out the hard way.
  12. stan23

    stan23 Been here awhile

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    haha. OK, here is daddy's version.

    20170821_183433_resized.jpg
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  13. Themastermike

    Themastermike Think you caught me in a coma

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    Still out

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  14. barko1

    barko1 barko1

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    Solved, I just bought 100 plastic caps for under $5 delivered on Ebay :clap, that should do it for awhile.
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  15. Rob180

    Rob180 Adventurer

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    Installed the Rottweiler ceramic coated arrow header today. In order to further mitigate the heat produced by this thing I wrapped the rear downpipe too... Initially it all seems to have helped the heat, but I never felt it was terrible anyway. On another note, it doesn't seem to have increased the noise dramatically, definitely sounds different at idle, not as good actually IMO.

    IMG_5626.JPG
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  16. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    New chain & sprockets. They were doing fine at 13000 miles with NO adjustments, till I hit the Dalton. By 15000 the chain was half worn but uneven, causing surging and slap. At 17000 it was worse and still wearing fast. Guess some of that Dalton dust and mud got through the o-rings.
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  17. PeteAndersson

    PeteAndersson Swede

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    [​IMG]

    Ready for holiday!
  18. kaertner

    kaertner Been here awhile

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    I suggest you place the soft bag across the boxes and use the loops on the top of the boxes to secure the bag. That will give you more seat space and avoid the bag digging into your back. I have a similar sof bag and use a cargo net to do this.
  19. PeteAndersson

    PeteAndersson Swede

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    Thanks, but I prefer to have it like this. Will be picking up a passenger soon so that bag will then "disappear".
  20. offroadjunky

    offroadjunky Adventurer

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    I like to have the top bag there because it acts like a back rest.
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